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OI5K HOMEB 



HEIR SDORNMENT&; 



OR, 

f ow to Puild, 1[inist], l[uroisli, and J^dorn a fome, 

CONTAINING 

PKACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS FOB THE BUILDING OF HOMES, INTERIOR DECORATION, - 
"WOOD CARVING, SCROLL SAWING, HOUSE PAINTING, WINDOW HANGINGS, 
SCREENS, CURTAINS, WINDOW GARDENING, INCIDENTAL DECORA- 
TIONS, DECORATIVE-ART NEEDLE-WORK, AND ECONOMIC 
LANDSCAPE GARDENING ; TO WHICH IS ADDED A 
HOUSEHOLD COMPENDIUM OF NEW, PRAC- 
TICAL AND VALUABLE RECIPES, 

THE WHOLE BEING DESIGNED TO MAKE 



^APPY ffioMES FOR ffilPPY or 



By ALMON C. VARNEY, 

Supervising Architect, etc., Detroit, Mich., 

ASSISTED BY THE FOLLOWING CORPS OP SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOKS : 

JOHN H. YOUNG, Author of "Our Deportment," etc, ; Mrs. J. M. S. HOLDEN, Author 
of Interior Decoration ; CHAS. E. BENTLEY, Author of Decorative Needle- 
work; WILLIAM BOYDELL, Author of Home Paintimj; JOHN 
SWIFT, M. S., Late Professor of Horticulture and Land- 
scape Gardening, Maine Agricultural College. 



|)LILi§TKA\Ti@. 



J. C. CHILTON & CO., Publishers, 

DETKOIT. MICIUGAN. 



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Entaraci according to Act of CongrEss, in the year IBBS, 

o-^Hy J, C, CHILT^N;)^^c> 
Intha DfficB of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, 




Transfer 
Blielneers School Uby, 
June 29,1931 



>B. 






TO THE 




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People oe JtaRici. 

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[ill] 



» ^M, e -,nno.r.r,r,, 



m4i 

-?mi^4i^ submitting this work to the public, the Publishers 




§1 think it not amiss to state that the contents have been 
carefully criticised and reviewed by competent and 
'^^^^ conscientious critics. 
f'^Jf To the authors of the various departments much 
•^ credit is due for the successful manner in which they 

' have treated the topics assigned them. 

For other favors and information not otherwise available 
special thanks are due — 

To Mr. Chas. E. Bentley, Designer and Manufacturer of 
Decorative Art Needle- Work, New York; Messrs. Phillips & 
Hunt, Publishers of the "People's Cyclopedia," New York; 
The American Encaustic Tiling Co., New York; Messrs. 
Warren, Fuller & Co., Manufacturers of Artistic Wall- 
Papers, New York; E. T. Barnum, Manufacturer of Crest- 
ings, etc., Detroit; Messrs. Mills & Barker, Ai-tistic Furni- 
ture, Detroit; A. H. Shipman, Fret-Saw Manufacturer, 
Eochester, New York. 

The Publishers take no small degree of pride in present- 
ing a work Avhich furnishes so many valuable suggestions on 
the subject of Our Homes and Their Adornments, and they 
can but wish that it will greatly assist in making many 
HAPPY HOMES FOE HAPPY PEOPLE, 
[iv] 








<?8a»BSt><B» > 




[HAT grand old Saxon word, HOME, has for ages 
held a peerless place wherever the English lan- 
guage is spoken. And thus do we find it, under 
every zone, embalmed in song, cherished in the 
memory, and enshrined in the heart 1 

Too much, therefore, can scarcely be said on 
such a theme, nor too devoted a service rendered to such a 
cause. And knowing as we do how largely, in this country, 
Home Life influences both the individual and the State, we 
come to present the offering of Our Tribute in the imperish- 
able form of A BOOK, for the acceptance and appreciation of 
a Home-loving people! 

The object of this, our labor, is to link — as in a marriage 
tie — this venerable and comprehensive word " home " with 
that other word of classic mold, but of modern application, — 
"ADORNMENT." And wlth the whole-hearted enthusiasm of 
^^ match-maJcera" we sincerely hope and believe that they 
will be found to be not " unequally yoked." 

[V] 



vi PREFACE. 

We are of the opinion that no attempt at " aw alliance " of 
this nature has ever before been so Avisely planned and so 
successfully consummated. It only remains, therefore, for 
us to bid a universal welcome to the Bridal! 

The homes of the past have been as redolent of virtue 
and affection as can be claimed for those of our own day; 
but the age has advanced in all those accessories which give 
to modern life its charm, and for a " Home " now to be 
without 'ts " Adornments,'' would be a return to a primitive 
condition that would ill accord with the scale and quality 
of social existence everywhere around us. 

The volume here presented comprehends and supplies, 
in its completeness, this felt need eminently more than any 
hitherto offered to the public. The departments it covers 
embrace the whole domain of " Home and its Adornments," 
from the most enlightened, cultivated, and reliable sources 
possible. 

Under the firm belief that " a thing of beauty is a joy 
forever," we have reason to expect that our Home Life will 
become radiated with a brighter glow, from the Alliance of 
Adormnent with Domesticity ; while the influence of such 
elements, acting as a Kindergarten, will daily and hourly 
impress on both young and old its " Object- Lessons " of in- 
struction with ever softening and refining influences. 

Economy, which holds so prominent a place in our mod- 
em household administration, finds a most signal recognition 
in the work here presented. Recipes of great practical value, 
are lavishly scattered among its pages; while the Useful, as 
well as the Ornamental, has in each Department received the 
most particular attention. 



PBEFACE. 



vu 



" The least said, the soonest mended," is a well-known 
proverb; and though we have no reason to fear " a break- 
age " among any of the numerous articles for use or orna- 
ment cabineted within the binding of this volume, yet we 
would on no account exhaust the reader's patience with 
a long Preface. Eveiy new venture expects the favoring 
breeze of popularity to carry it safely into port. And if our 
numerous friends will only be kind enough to judge of this 
work by its merits, we shall then have no fear for the results. 

THE PUBLISHEES. 




.r 



ClOMTEXM'T©. 



-4 »-?.. 



PART GtmM: 

(^fcmnin^, ^Udm^, and 0^iwi^fiin^ <^tom^. 

CHAPTER I. 

General Considerations. — Ideal Homes. — Renting and Pui-- 
chasing. — Contracting the Work. — Paying for Homes 
Gradually 25 

CHAPTER II. 

How to Plan a House. — Hints as to How to Proceed. — 
Kinds of Lumber to Use. — Suggestions Worth Noting. 
—Painting- 30 

CHAPTER III. 

Ornamentation. — Appearance of a House. — Secret of At- 
tractive Buildings. — The Place to Put Ornaments. — 
Little Expense with Good Results. — The Front En- 
trance. — Portico. — Beauty of Outline. — Cotnice. — 

Gable 36 

[viil] 



CONTENTS. ix 

CHAPTER IV. 

Buildings of Wood, their Economy. — Kinds of "Wood to 
Use. — Ei'ecting the Building. — Direction Therefor. — 
Rendering Wooden Buildings Warm. — Back Plaster- 
ing. — How to Make a Wooden Dwelling Nearly Fire- 
Proof - 39 

CHAPTER V. 

Dtirable Floors. — A Better Plan for Floors Suggested. — 
Open Joints and How to Prevent Them. — Inside Fin- 
ish. — The Best Woods and How to Use Them. — Pre- 
vention of Swelling in Lumber 45 

CHAPTER VI. 

Staircases. — Directions for Building. — New Style of Ban- 
isters. — Rear Staircase. — Hard Woods. — Black- Wal- 
nut. — How to Finish a House in Hard Wood. — 
Veneering Hard Woods 51 

CHAPTER VII. 

Something more Durable. — Brick and Stone Houses. — 
Their Cost. — Veneer Brick and Stone Work. — How 
to Prevent Brick Walls from Sweating. — Stone Trim- 
mings for Brick Houses 57 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Valuable Suggestions and Rules. — Methods of Estimating 
Work and Material. — How to Find the Amount of 
Lumber Necessary to Erect a Given Building. — Prices 
of Labor 61 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IX. 

House Painting. — Its Philosophy. — Best Time to Paint. — 
Kinds of Paint. — Colors. — Mixing. — OUs and Driers. — 
Applying Paints. — Priming. — Second Coat. — Finishing 
Coat. — Brushes. — General Suggestions. — Inside Paint- 
ing. — Varnishing. — Graining. — Graining Tools. — The 
Ground. — Graining Colors. — Oil-Finish 65 

CHAPTER X. 

Descriptions and Specifications Continued. — Lathing and 
Plastering. — Carpenter Work. — Tin Roofs. — Crestings 
and Finials. — Doors, Windows, Blinds, and Shutters. — 
Inside Finish. — Main Room and Kitchen. — Plumbing. 
— Glazing. — Stoi*m Doors 76 

CHAPTER XI. 

Heating and Ventilation. — Open Fire-Places. — Grates and 
Furnaces — Steam Heating. — How to Ventilate. — Im- 
pure Ail". — Nature's Disinfectants 91 

CHAPTER XII. 

Situation and Siirroundings. — Selecting a Healthy Site. — 
How to Secure Good Drainage. — Pui-e Water. — Danger 
from Stagnant Pools. — How a House Should Front. — 
Sunshine. — Its Value. — Shade Trees 97 

CHAPTER XIII.' 

The Primitive House. — Our Noble Ancestors. — Modem 
Residences. — How to Build a House and Make, Addi- 
tions to It. — A Simple Cottage. — Design I. (5 illustra- 
tions.) ...102 



CONTENTS. xi 

CHAPTER XIV. 

An Attractive Cottage Home for People with Small Means. 
— How Constructed. — The Cost. — How to Paint It. — 
Design II. (2 illustrations.) HI 

CHAPTER XV. 

A Neat, Symmetrical Story-and-a-half House at Moderate 
Cost. — Description of Its Arrangement, — Its Advan- 
tages over a One-story House. — Some Novel Features. 
— Design III, (3 illustrations). — Design IV. (2 il- 
lustrations.) - 115 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Story-and-a-half houses Continued. — A House that Will 
Admit Sunlight to Every Room. — Appearance Made 
Subordinate to Arrangement of Rooms. — An Excellent 
Floor Plan. — Design V. (2 illustrations) 125 

CHAPTER XVII. 

A Rural Cottage Home. — A Plan that Combines Convenience 
and Beauty. — Simple Adornments that Add to Comfort. 
— Perspective View of a Picturesque Gothic House. — 
Design VI. (2 illustrations) — Design VII. (with il- 
lustration.) 128 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

More Durable Material. — A Solid Gothic House. — Style, 
not New but Popular. — Description of the Plans — Cost 
of Erection. — Design VIII. (3 illustrations.) — Exten- 
sive Farm Residence and Bam. — Design IX. (2 illus- 
trations.) 132 



xii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

An Elegant Brick Residence. — Comfort and Beauty Com- 
bined. — Description of Plan, Materials, and Construc- 
tion. — Design X. (2 illustrations.) — A Modem Yilla. 
— Design XI. (with illustration.) 138 

CHAPTER XX. 

How to Build a Summer Cottage. — Cheap, but Attractive 
Houses in the Hot Season. — How to Build a Rustic 
Arbor. — A Few Suggestions on Beautifying the Sur- 
roundings with Little Expense 143 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Alterations and Additions. — Old Houses Made New. — 
Caiition. — Improving Roofs and Gables. — Remodeling 
Windows 149 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Outhouses. — Some Practical Suggestions. — How to Have Ice 
all the Summer. — An Ice-House Preservatory. — Plan 
for a Cheap but Excellent Farm and Carriage Barn 157 



<^<ynw ^mfv^o^menh foi Voun^ and (Pfd. 
CHAPTER I. 

A Manual of Fret Sawing. — Practical Lessons with Illus- 
trations. — Finishing up the Work. — Use of Saws. — 



CONTENTS. xiii 

Sawing Metals. — Useful Articles. — Saws and theii' 
Prices - - 165 

CHAPTER II. 

The Art of Wood Carving. — Its Origin and History. — The 
Tools and their Uses. — Ornaments that May be Made. 
— How Amateurs May Learn the Art. — Directions for 
First Attempts. — A Study of Nature Necessary in 
order to Appreciate the Art in Wood Carving 177 

CHAPTER III. 

Landscape Gardening. — General Rules and Observations 
Applicable to the Improvement of Small Lots from 
One-Sixteenth to One-Half Acre in Ai'ea. — Errors of 
Common Occurrence. — Style of Gardening. — Exposure 
and Location. — Grading and Terracing 183 

CHAPTER IV. 

Special Features. — Drives and Walks. — Varieties of Shrubs, 
Trees, and Flowers to Use. — Laying out and Making 
Walks and Drives. — Easy Methods of Laying out 
Drives. — Grouping and Planting 193 

CHAPTER V. 

Tree Planting. — The Best Time to Plant. — How to Plant. — 
Removing and Planting Large Trees. — How to Select. 
— A Good List. — Care of Trees and Success in their 
Culture. — Fences. — Kinds and their Style. — How to 
Make them Ornamental 202 



xiv tONTENTS. 

Jnteiioi ^ewUiticn', oi <^ow to JlfTa^e oui :^fame& 

CHAPTER I. 

•Interior Decoration. — General Considerations. — Objects 
Aimed at, and Extent of Decoration. — How to Beau- 
tify Walls and Ceilings. — Wall-Papers. — How to Select 
the Best 213 

CHAPTER II. 

'Hints on the Choice of Papers. — What Shades to Select. 
— Harmony of Colors. — Selecting Paper for Different 
Rooms.— The Dado 219 

CHAPTER III. 

'How to Hang Wall-Papers. — Simple Instructions for Every- 
body. — Sizing the Walls. — Amount of Paper in a Roll. 
— How to Cut and Match the Paper. — Paste for Wall- 
Paper 226 

CHAPTER IV. 

Recent Improvements in Needle- Work. — Usefulness now a 
Prominent Feature. — List and Description of Materi- 
als.— Prices.— Bead Work 230 

CHAPTER V. 

Embroidery Stitches. — Descriptions of the Best Stem Stitch. 
— Blanket Stitch. — Chain Stitches. — Herring-Bone, But- 
ton-Hole, and Satin Stitch. — Kensington Outline. — 
Janina. — Blanket. — Designs for Borders and Centers. 
—The New Plush Stitch 233 



CONTENTS. XV 

CHAPTER VI. 

Practical Designs. — Embroidery Patterns. — An Elegant 
Pincushion. — Silk Counterpane and Cover. — Tatted 
Doyley. — Design for Linen Embroidery 242 

CHAPTER Vn. 

Some Elegant Designs. — Embroidered Rocking-Chair Cover 
— A Work-Apron. — Designs for Elegant Glass Mii'- 
rors. — New Style of Splasher. — Bead Embroidered 
News-Rack. — Handsome Table-Cover. — A Piano Scarf 
in Plush Applique Work 249 

CHAPTER Vni. 

Hangings for Doors, Halls, and Windows. — How to Make 
them and of What to Make them. — Elegant Effects at 
Small Cost. — How to Use the Odds and Ends in Ren- 
dering the House more Beautiful. — Cost of Materials. . 259 

CHAPTER IX. 

Screens. — How to Make them. — Materials. — How to Use 
Screens to Advantage. — Ebonizing Wood. — Painted 
Screens. — How to Use Discarded Material to Advan- 
tage in Covering Panels for Screens. — Embroidered 
Screens. — How to Make the Frames 266 

CHAPTER X. 

Embroidered Screens. — Japanese Piecework. — A Patriotic 
Screen. — The Uses of Old Material. — A Queer Use for 
an Old Clothes-Horse. — Lambrequins. — Tables. — Cabi- 
nets. — Odd and Ends. — Use up the Pieces . .... 272 



xvi CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XI. 

Some New Designs in Embroidery. — Lambreqixin and Cur- 
tains. — Materials to Use, and How to Construct. — An 
Elegant Sofa Pillow. — A New Applique Design. — 
Lace Lambrequin .- 282^ 

CHAPTER XII. 

Furnishings. — The Hall. — Its Impression upon Visitors. — 
The Parloi". — Dining-Room. — How to Furnish them at 
Reasonable Cost. — Home-Made Mantels, Rugs, Carpets, 
etc 285 

CHAPTER XIIL 

Bed-Rooms. — How to Make them Cheerful, Comfortable, 
and Healthful. — Bed-Room Furniture. — Cheap but 
Useful Furniture. — How to Make a Bed-Room Table. 
— Wash-Stand with Drapery 294 



PART FOCTR. 

3^^0 (^aie^y (^uUuH, and c^tofiafafiofp of j^^foweU. 

CHAPTER I. 

The Culture of Flowers. — How to Have Thriving Plants 
and Abundance of Flowers. — Useful Suggestions. — 
How to Construct and Manage Hot-Beds and Flower- 
Eeds 303 

CHAPTER II. 

Description of Varieties. — A List of Bulbs, with Methods of 
Treatment. — Climbers. — Annuals. — Varieties Suitable 
for all Purposes 311 



CONTENTS. xvii 

CHAPTER III. 

Window Gardening. — How to Have Flowers all Winter. — 
Best Varieties for Winter Use. — How to Care for the 
Flowers. — Their Arrangement in the Window 327 

CHAPTER IV. 

Preserving Natural Flowers. — An Art worth Knowing. — 
How to Keep Natural Flowers for a Long Time. — Pre- 
serving by tlia Sand Process. — The Sulphur Process. — 
Preserving Bridal and Funeral Flowers. — An Elegant 
Art. — Arrangement of Flowers 333 



JM'iCeffancoui dccoiative fllU fot tfl^ <^om^. 

CHAPTER I. 

Brush and Pigment. — Painting in Oil and Water Colors. — 
Full Instructions for Both. — Panel Painting. — Painting 
Plaques and Vases. — An Elegant Art. — Beautifying 
the Home. — A New Ware for Painting. — Oil Colors on 
Silk, Satin, and Plush. — Water Colors. — Bowl Paint- 



339 



CHAPTER II. 



Crystal Ambrotypes, or Photo-Enamel. — How to Paint 
Photogra[)hs. — Explicit Directions for the Painting. — 
Materials and their Use. — Decalcomania, or the Art of 
Ti-ansfei-i-ing Pictures. — Transferring Pictures to Wood, 
Stone, Glass, Silk, Satin, etc. — Easy and Inexpensive 
Ways of Decorating 345 



xviii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER III. 

Something Novel in EmVjroidery. — Fish Scales. — How to 
Make Bags and Sachets. — Cover for a Baby's Crib. — 
Oval Frames for Photographs. — Baskets. — A Kitchen 
Table Transformed into a Library Table. — How to 
Make Rugs. — Sheepskin Rugs — 349 

CHAPTER IV. 

Encaustic Tiles. — Their Durability. — How to Use them. — 
Paving Hearths. — Cost. — Mantels. — How to Get 
them. — Cabinets. — Home Decoration of Tiles. — Lin- 
crusta- Walton - - - - - 355 

CHAPTER V. 

Dyeing and Bleaching. — Dyeing Cotton. — How to Treat the 
Fabrics. — Directions for all Leading Colors. — Dyeing 
Woolens. — Aniline Colors. — Coloring Straw Hats. — 
How to Make Mordants. — "Sour." — Dye for Feathers. 
— Bleaching Sponge. — To Whiten Lace. — Bleaching 
Straw Goods. — Cleaning Ostrich Feathers. — Bleaching 
Ivory, Prints, and Printed Books. — Washing Fluid . . 360 



<^u^e£i}^ (^omfi^ndinm of JYew and Vatua^e 

I. 

Hints on Health. — Hints on Home Decoration. — Use- 
ful Toilet Recipes. — Varnishes. — Paints. — Staining 
Woods. — Cleaning and Scouring. — Cleaning Fabrics. — 
Cements. — Renewing Old and Defaced Manuscripts. — 
Recipes for Making Colored Inks. — Lead Exploding. — 



CONTENTS. 



XIX 



To Keep Wagon Tires on tlie Wheels.— The U. S. 
Government Tempering Secret. — U. S. Mint Test for 
Counterfeit Silver 377 

11. 

HOUSEKEEPER'S MANUAL OF COOKING. 

Kitchen Utensils. — Soups. — How to make them. — Fish. 
— Dii-ections for Cooking. — Poultry and Game. — Lashes 
and Gravies. — Meats. — Salads, Sauces, and Pickles. — 
Relishes. — Puddings. — Pies. — Custards. — Bread. — 
Cakes. — Ices. — Preserving and Canning Fruits. — Bev- 
erages. — Giving Dinners. — Table Etiquette. — Invita- 
tions. — Bills of Fare 417 

General Index 486 







List of Illustrations. 



FIG. J'AGE. 

1. Sash Ventilation for Dwelling Houses 95 

2. The Log Cabin. 103 

3. A Cheap Prairie Cottage. Cost, under |50. 

Ground Plan. 1 05 

4. Elevation Plan of Same 106 

5. The Same Enlarged. 107 

6. The Same Transformed into Convenient House. 

Ground Plan 108 

7. Elevation Plan of Same. ^ 109 

8. Attractive Cottage Home on Economical Scale. 

Cost .$600. Ground Plan. 112 

9. Elevation Plan of Same. 113 

10. Story-and-a-half House for City Kesidence. Cost, 

$1300. Ground Plan 116 

1 1. Chamber Plan of Same. .. 117 

1 2. Elevation Plan of Same. 119 

13. Another Style for Story-and-a-half House. Cost, 

$900. Ground Plan 122 

1 4. Elevation Plan of Same. ... 123 

15. Story-and-a-half Suburban Residence. Cost, 

11600. Ground Floor 126 

16. Elevation Plan of Same 126 

17. A Rural Cottage Home. Cost, $1500. Ground 

Floor 129 

18. Elevation Plan of Same. 129 

19. Modern Gothic Roof Story-and-a-half House. 

Cost, $1700. Elevation anp Perspective. 130 

20. Substantial Gothic Dwelling. Cost, $ 5000. 

Ground Floor - 133 

[XX] 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



XXI 



21. Chamber Floor of Same 134 

22. Elevation Plan of Same 134 

23. Extensive Farm Residence, with Barn and Out- 

buildings. Ground Plan and Second Floor. . . 136 

24. Elevation and Perspective op Same . 136 

25. Elegant Buick Residence. — A City Erection. 

Cost $.5000. First Floor Plan. 140 

26. Elevation And Perspective op Same _ 140 

27. Elegant Modern Villa. Elevation and Per- 

spective 142 

28. Ornamental Iron Castings for Roofs, Gables, Etc. 151 

29. The Same 152 

30. The Same 153 

31. Attractive Designs for Windows 154 

32. The Same 155 

33. Plan for Ice House and Preservatorv Combined. 158 

34. Farm AND Carriage Barn Combined. Ground Plan. 160 

35. Elevation of Same. 161 

36. Plan of Carriage Drive in Ornamental Grounds. 

Egress and Ingress 197 

37. Ornamental Fence 208 

38. Frieze Pattern Designed by John Leighton, F. S. 

A., London . _ 225 

39. Ths Same. Fred Beck, New York 225 

40. The Same. Lewis C. Tiffany, New York 225 

41. Design for Banner Screen 239 

42. 43. Two Embroidery Patterns 243 

44. Embroidered Pincushion 244 

45, 46. Two Silk Counterpanes 245 

47. Tatted Doyley 246 

48. Embroidered Tidy on Linen Crash 247 

49. Elegant Rocking-Chair 249 

50. Embroidered Work- Apron 250 

51. Hair Receiver 251 

52. 53. Two Mirrors 252, 253 

54. New Style of Splasher 253 

55. News Rack. 253 

56. Three-Cornered Table 254 

57. Applique Piano Scarf 256 

58. Table Scarf in Darned Work.. 257 

59. Three-Panel Screen. 267 

60. Embroidered Banner Screen 275 

61. Handsome Lambrequin 276 



xxii ILLUSTRATIONS. 

62. Ornamental Table-Cover. ... 278 

63. Hall Mirror and Hat Eack Combined 286 

64. Hat, Coat, and Umbrella Rack 287 

65. Easy Reading or Library Chair. 289 

66. Rocker, The Same. 290 

67. Useful and Graceful Lounge 291 

68. Hassock on Castors 292 

69. Bed-Room Furniture. .. 295 

70. Wardrobe Bedstead. 296 

7L Bedstead with Drapery _ 297 

72. Elegant Folding Chair. 298 

73. Wash-Stand with Drapery. 299 

74. Water-Lilxes. 324 

75. Wire Flower-Stand 328 

76. Bay-Window. 329 

77. Reflected Floral Decoration. 330 

78. Group of Scroll-Saw Decorations. 331 

79. Lessons in Scroll Sawing, No. 1 340 

80. The Same. No. 2 _._ 341 

81. The Same. No. 3 341 

82. The Same. No. 4. 342 

83. The Same. No. 5. . . - 344 

84. The Same. No. 6 344 

85. 86, 87. Instructions in Fine Combinative Work. 348 
88, 89, 90, 91. Escutcheons for Key-Hole Ornaments. 348 

92. Hand Scroll or Fret Saw 350 

93. Tools Employed in Wood Carving. 6 Illustrat'ns. 353 

94. A Design for Practice 353 

95. 96. Carving a Wall Pocket ... . 358 

97. Carving a Book Rack . . .... 359 

98. Carving a Bread Platter. . 360 

99. Carving a Paper Knife . 361 

100. Carving a Bracket 361 

101. Carving a Molding. 361 

102. Cooking Range . , 418 




IE 




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1 
J, 



AND 




Irc 



RECTING, 



When we mean to build, 
We first survey the plot, then draw the model j 
And when we see the figure of the house, 
Then must we rate the cost of construction : 
Which, if we find outweighs ability, 
What do we then, but draw anew the model 
In fewer offices ; or at least, desist 
To build at all. 

^-KiNG Henkv IV., Part II, Act I, Scene 3. 



[24] 



(^pj^p/jv^^ f^ 



GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS. — IDEAL HOMES. — RENTING AND 
PURCHASING. — CONTRACTING THE WORK. 




»J*lo 



10 ME. — This woi'd to most of us possesses deep 
significance. With what reverence do we look 
back to the home of our childhood, now em- 
balmed in memory as our heart's dearest treas- 
ure ! Not a home, do we mean, surrounded with 
all the luxuries of life, but one, even though 
humble, where there was "plenty and to spare." 
The old home, with father and mother and its 
stores of plenty, did not quite content us; w^e 
felt a spirit of unrest taking possession of us. 
Then we were unable to appreciate our blessings 
as we do now, looking back to them in the light of a riper 
experience. Points and objects that failed to .attract us 
then, are now so many shrines at which we do homage. 
and as we achieve success or meet failure, oui- minds revert 
to the old home with its precious memories. 

Our ideal home is not like the home of our youth; it 
is one that is to meet the wants, as far as our means will 
allow, of our own households, enabling us to enjoy that com- 

[25] 



26 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

fort and independence that can never be appreciated by 
those wliose thought is of to-day, and who let the morrow 
care for itself. 

To our mind there is nothing more ennobling than the 
united efforts of young married people directed to the 
acquisition of a home. They may be, as the majority are, 
possessed of limited means; but good health, temperate 
habits, and frugal saving of earnings, though small, will 
enable them to purchase or build a cottage and adorn it. 
There, when the cares of the day are over, beneath their 
"own vine and fig-tree," they can recount the successes of 
the past, and plan for the future. 

The work done by our own hands, and the money our 
own sweat has earned, are to us a source of peculiar pride 
and satisfaction. So a home, earned by the concerted efforts 
of husband and wife, will possess a charm far greater than 
if they come in possession of it by heirship. More precious 
because of its association with their struggles with necessity. 

The great trouble is that the young people of to-day are 
not walling to commence so far down the scale ; they cannot 
be content with such an humble beginning as their parents 
made; and instead of commencing a home soon after mar- 
riage, they rent and furnish a house in extravagant style, 
often spending enough in furnishing to pay for a home of 
comfortable size. All this, we remark, is done with the 
plea of economy. They promise to build when they have 
means enough. We who have traveled the path so often, 
can see their mistake. A false pride has prevented them 
from accepting humbler quarters, from whence in a few 
years they might have gone out to wealth and even 
opulence. 



RENTING AND PURCHASING. 27 

How many instances have we met of those who have 
rented and fitted up the house of a close landlord, hopmg 
at no distant day to be able to pay for a home of their own ; 
but month after month, and year after year, the rent bill 
absorbs the savings, until they have paid out as much as 
would be required either to pay for a house, or secure one 
in such a manner as to be gradually brought into their full 
possession by frugal savings and payments. 

In our opening chapter we cannot forbear oifering a 
word of encouragement to persons of small means seeking 
homes, for we know well, from actual experience, what 
small earnings, carefully saved and judiciously expended, 
will do in this direction. 

One need not have too much fear in iacurring a safe 
amount of debt on a home when there is a constant saving 
going on, and a gradual reduction of the principal can be 
made. We wish, however, to caution all against one 
serious mistake, — many times the plan of the house and 
cost of the same are not definite enough, and the home that 
was intended, under no circumstances, to exceed in cost the 
sum of fifteen hundred dollars, is found very incomplete 
when that amount has been expended, and it is found, when 
too late, that the cost will be fully two thousand dollars. 

It is then found that the loan, which could have been 
secured on the premises for the first amount named, at a 
low rate of interest with easy terms of payment, will be 
hard to obtain for the larger amount ; and should the loan 
be secured for this last amount, it will necessarily be at a 
higher rate of interest ; hence the risk of paying ofi" the debt 
is greater. 

Misfortune, duU business, or sickness, may curtail the 



28 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

earnings, and the result will be inability to meet payments 
of interest and on principal, and the ghost of foi'eclosure of 
mortgage haunts the homestead. After a struggle, perhaps 
of many years, the unfortunate owner is obliged to give up, 
and with wife and family .seek more humble quarters with 
monthly rental. 

We present this picture to place all of small means on 
their guard. Be sure not to build too large; know what 
the cost to complete the home will be before commencing. 
It is better to live in a rented house than to go through the 
anxiety, annoyance, trouble, and disappointment of almost 
paying for a home and then seeing it taken from you, your 
labor lost, and your earnings swept away. 

This state of affairs need not occur, except in rare 
instances, if anything like a reasonable amount of fore- 
thought and good judgment is exercised. The usual way, 
and the best way, for people of only moderate means to 
build anything of much cost, and be sure of a knowledge of 
the sum total when completed, is to contract the work for a 
given sii7n; and if for a house of not much pretension, tho 
better way is to have a plan, if possible, from some architect 
of known ability and of a good reputation. He can em- 
body in his plan even every little thing about a house, from 
a sliding door down to a set of drawers in the kitchen 
pantry, or cleats and shelves in the closets, thus obviating 
the lisk of the builder's never-failing desire to run up a 
heavy bill of "extras" on the completion of the job, as too 
many of them try to make it larger than it should be for 
the anumnt of work done. 

In the larger cities and towns where the services of a 
good architect can be had, it is always advisable to employ 



CONTRACTING THE WORK. 29 

one, at least to do the planning and preparing of the contract 
and specifications for letting the work, if not for superin- 
tending. A good set of plans and specifications, carefully 
executed, can be followed even by a man comparatively un- 
accustomed to such things, with sufficient precision to dis- 
cover any great vai-iation the conti'actor might try to make 
in the building. But for buildings of much pretension there 
is no better evidence of the benefits of a good plan and super- 
intendency of the work from day to day as it progresses, 
by a competent architect, than the fact that in large cities 
there are men known as "building speculatoi's," who do not 
build without definite plans and usually superintendents. 
But for the majority who will read this book, and whom we 
hope in a measure to assist, in the smaller cities and towns, 
villages and country homes, it is not always easy to get the 
professional assistance required, and for their benefit we 
wish to offer a few suggestions, before proceeding to tlie dis- 
cussion of other matters and the description of the accom- 
panying plates. 




(!:xFiJ^F»a":^R IT. 



HOW TO PLAN A HOUSE.— HINTS AS TO HOAV TO PROCEED. 
— KINDS OF LUMBER TO USE. — SUGGESTIONS WORTH 
NOTING. —PAINTING. 




oI«ic 



N the first place, we assume that a small cottage 
is to be built. The only one to apply to in the 
village is one of the two or three carpenters, 
who perhaps knows little of the real conveniences 
of life that may be introduced into the small 
cottage, or who does not seem to rise above the 
one thought that a certain number of rooms 
after some stereotyped pattern he has been 
familiar with, is all that is required. We do 
not mean to say this is always the case, for 
sometimes the carpenter exercises a good amount 
of ability in the arrangement of rooms in the small houses 
that come under his hand. 

If you cannot secure the help of a competent carpenter, 
you should commence by carefully calculating the amount 
of room you must have, examining the houses of some of 
3"()ur acquaintances, and comparing sizes and arrangement 
of rooms; and if you can refer to some book of plates and 

[30] 



HOW TO FLAN A HOUSE. 31 

arrangement of space and simple forms of exterior finish, 
such as this work is intended to furnish, much assistance 
can be obtained in designing your house. 

OutUne to a certain scale, if in ever so crude a form, the 
rooms, with the dimensions marked on the same, also giving 
outside measure of the whole buildino^. 

Locate the doors and windows where they will give the 
best light and most room for the arrangement of the 
furniture, when the building is completed. How many 
times these two important things — doors and windows — 
have, for the want of a little forethought, been so arranged 
that the sunlight cannot be admitted as it should be, or in 
the position to fail to secure the ventilation that might be 
easily obtained in the summer time by open windows. 

A bed room should, if possible, have two windows; and 
if on a corner, one on each of the two sides, thereby 
securing a draft of air in the heat of the summer, which 
could not be obtamed by one window, or two on the same 
side. The doors should be located as far as possible from 
the corners of rooms, and so as to come opposite the 
windows, that they too may help to secure a thorough 
ventilation in the heat of summer. 

Now from the specifications given in succeeding chapters 
can be found something bearing upon almost every point, so 
that the amateur can get up specifications and contract 
that shall quite completely cover all necessary particulars on 
a house of the kind under consideration. The elevation will 
have to be determined, the height of posts, and distance 
between ceiling and floor, and height of second story. This 
is meant to be a perfectly plain story-and-a-half cottage, 
devoid of much ornamentation. 



32 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Now from the carpenters who are to figure on the work, 
you can discover any gross eiror you have made in your 
terms or description of things. This is supposing you do 
not have an average good carpenter to apply to for 
assistance in making the plans and specifications ; but most 
carpenters are capable of studying out floor plans, and 
making out specifications in some form or other; and in case 
you want to build a house similar to the one we have been 
discussing, and you apply to a builder, he will, under your 
directions, prepare a floor arrangement and specifications, 
with the understanding that he is to compete with whoever 
else in his line you may deem it proper to call in; and 
if you do not award him the job, you are to remunerate him 
for his sketches. 

Now with the aid of what you will find in succeeding 
chapters of this work, you can carefully read over his 
specifications and compare them with those we have given, 
and see where omissions have been made b}^ him, or descrip- 
tion of particulars left incomplete; also, where the quality 
of material is not what it should be. 

By referring to the chapter containing the estimates of 
quantities of the different forms of building material, yo» 
can ascertain very nearly the different amounts needed 
in constructing your house. For instance, brick that are 
the usual size, 2x4x8 inches, require 22 to the cubic foot, or 
in building a common chimn(-y 16 inches square, it will 
take 80 brick to the foot in height. Thus you will find in 
this work all the different methods of estimating buildings, 
commonly used by builders. 

These will all be of assistance, particularly in country 
places. They will be of special value to the farmer, whether 



HOW TO PROCEED. 33 

he is erecting a house, or some of the many different kinds 
of farm buildings, where usually all materials are furnished 
and the labor contracted by the day to execute the work. 

He commences in the fall, after farming work is well 
out of the way, and determines what he wants for a 
building, and the size of the same, cutting from his own 
forest and hauling to the mill the logs to cut out all of 
the different dimensions and kinds of materials, which 
should then be piled up to dry. ' 

All material intended for finishing, inside and outside, 
such as flooring, clapboarding, or weather- boarding, casing* 
and moldings, should be thoroughly dried put and seasoned, 
so that it can be matched, planed, re-sawed, and got into 
shape for putting up. In fact, all timber should be 
thoroughly seasoned, for, if put up before dry, it is always 
"getting out of shape," as it is termed, warping and 
twisting badly, doors and window-frames opening joint, the 
plastering cracking, frame settling, and openings appearing 
under the base-boards. 

All of this may be caused, even where the finish is dry, 
by putting in the framing when it is wet, and covering it 
up before it has time to dry, which it will do after fires are 
in the house, and produce the results above mentioned. 
Therefore, if the framing lumber cannot have time to be 
dried in the pile, it should be allowed to stand three or four 
weeks or more in the building, before plastering. 

All floor joists for the second floor should be sized to a 
uniform width, and all outside and inside studding should be 
treated in the same manner ; then the walls will come even, 
and there will be no trouble by the variations in widths of 
studding. Any kind of lumber will dry sufiiciently in thb 

3 



34 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

open air, piled up openly with free access for the au- to pass 
through, except in case of that used for doors, sash, and 
blinds, which must be kiln-dried after being dressed; or as 
is usual with doors, ivhen fraTtied together before gluing, 
placed in the kiln for a few days. Pine lumber for doors, 
sash, and blinds should be soft, as that which is hard and 
glassy, or what is known as Norway pine, will warp when 
the door comes to be used. For painted work it don't 
matter so much if some sap is used on inside finish, unless 
the work is to be painted white, when it would take too 
many coats to cover the dark colors of the sap ; and if any 
knots are used, either inside or out, they should be 
thoroughly covered with shellac before painting, as it will 
help to prevent the pitch coming through. If the wood 
\a finished in the natural color of the pine, it must first 
be made perfectly smooth with sand-paper, if a good job is 
wanted, and then given one coat of hard oil finish. When 
dry, over this spread two coats of good copal or coach 
varnish ; this, when dry, makes a hard, bright, glo.ssy finish, 
easily kept clean. The wood for the work must be sand- 
papered with the grain, as any cross rubbing will, when the 
work is done, show scratches on the surface. 

When we can have our w^ay, we never paint anything 
white. The old-time custom, in many parts of the country, 
of painting the house white, and outside blinds green, we 
know has a strong hold on the popular mind; but w^e think 
if a little attention is given to the subject, and pains taken 
to see some houses that are painted in one or more modern 
colors, most of the adherents to the glaring white and 
brilliant green will yield to the more harmonious shades 
that are in better accord with the surroundings. 



PAINTING. 



35 



These criticisms apply with equal force to the subject of 
inside finish. We never would paint anything white. 
Paint each room in one or more colors of delicate shades, 
neutral tints, with nothing having a gaudy appearance, but 
presenting a quiet harmony in tone and color with the fur- 
nishing of the room. In papering, the color of paint and 
tint of paper should always be considered, so that they may 
blend well. (See Department of House Painting.) 




(^pjj^p>.j^;^^ fff^ 



ORNAMENTATION. — APPEARANCE OF A HOUSE. — SECRET OF 
ATTRACTIVE BUILDINGS. — THE PLACE TO PUT ORNA- 
MENTS. — LITTLE EXPENSE WITH GOOD RESULTS. — THE 
FRONT ENTRANCE. — PORTICO. — CORNICE.— GABLE. 




3j«iO 



HE exterior of a house built of wood can, at a 
small cost over what the difference would be for 
a plain one, be made attractive and even beauti- 
ful in outline and effect; it should, however, be 
borne in mind that the requirements to produce 
a fine artistic effect, are not, by any means, in 
the amount of ornamentation put on, but in the 
kind and in the adaptability of the ornaments of 
the building. In other words, what is put on 
for the purpose of ornamenting should be in the 
right place, and look as if it belonged and had a 
purpose there. Many times this is overdone, and the 
building when completed looks more like a thing constructed 
upon which to nail tawdry or illy-designed ornaments, than 
a harmonious whole, with each part blending with the 
other, and making an object that will attract attention, 
and challenge admiration, and upon which the eye lingers 
[36] 



WHERE TO PUT ORNAMENTS. 37 

spell-bound, while the effect on the memory is of something 
beautiful. 

All this is very simple of explanation. Sometimes 
we look upon a house that has this attraction for us, and 
when we come to think over the amount of ornamenting 
done and the cost of the same, we are almost astonished 
that so little could attract attention; but it is simply the 
arrangement of the design of the building that produces this 
effect. 

The fbont entrance, the portico, and the entrance 
doors should, we think, be the place to show the most taste 
in ornamentation. This is the point that must command 
the most marked attention. Let the outline be easy and 
graceful, the steps broad, and, where there is plenty of room 
and the expense can be borne, curve out in an easy manner. 
Nothing helps to make an inviting entrance like broad, 
easy steps. 

The front doors, we think, should be a model of outline, 
and the ornamentation in good taste. This can be done 
without much, if any, carvings. We think that most of 
the costly doors often seen, covered with carved ornaments, 
are anything but beautiful, and they often look burdened 
with unmeaning intricacies of the gouge and chisel, where 
something else, in rich design of form and outline, would 
have been far more attractive. 

The portico, again, an important feature so commonly 
used now on city and town houses, possesses the same 
characteristics, that is, the same amount of work looks 
either good or bad according to the taste and skill displayed 
in the forms of finish, the dimensions of outlines, caps, etc. 
A column too large in proportion, may spoil the good effect 



38 OUB HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

of an otherwise fine portico; and the same thoughtfulness 
must govern the entire work. 

The windows, the frames, caps, and sills must, when 
completed, form an outline that is easy and symmetrical, 
whatever the design may be. For instance, a window 
with a neat cap, and the sill cut short off, with nothing to 
relieve it on the side, or any corbel under the sill, looks 
ungraceful. It matters not how fine a cap it may have, 
there will be something lacking. 

Cornices and gables, again, are open to the same crit- 
icism. A cornice may be too broad for the building, or the 
roof too steep for the width of cornice, either of which pro- 
duces a strange effect upon the building. The gable can be 
ornamented in a multitude of ways that are most pleasing 
to the eye, or the vagaries of the jig and band saw may 
cumber it down with trash that is most repulsive to 
look upon. 

We have briefly touched upon these points, endeavoring 
to show where beauty in the exterior of our houses may be 
had, and that, too, in many cases without increasing the 
cost, if we only use good taste, skill, and fair judgment in 
the designs. 



CxMAF^^RK T^. 



BUILDINGS OF WOOD. — THEIR ECONOMY. — KINDS OF WOOD 
TO USE.— ERECTING THE BUILDING.— DIRECTIONS THERE- 
FOR. — RENDERING WOODEN DWELLINGS WARM. — BACK 
PLASTERING. — HOW TO MAKE A WOODEN DWELLING 
NEARLY FIRE PROOF. 




moderate 
there can 
one built 
brick and 
discussion 
chapter. 



o:*ic 



N this country with its almost exhaustless 
resources of forests, including the finest assort- 
ment of woods for building found on any- 
continent, the choicest kinds can be procured at 
reasonable figures. 

The woods best adapted for the framing and 
finishing of all exterior portions, as well as for 
the superstructure itself, are PINE, SPRUCE, and 
HEMLOCK, their abundance, improved methods 
of manufacture, and moderate cost, rendering 
them the most desirable woods for houses of 
cost. As far as health is concerned, we think 
be no house better adapted to its promotion than 
of wood. However, the obstacles to health in 
stone buildings are not insurmountable, and a full 
of these materials will be found in another 

[39] 



40 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

A building of wood cannot well be made as warm as 
one of brick or stone, but can, in the following manner, be 
made warm enough for all practical purposes. For an ordi- 
nary eight-room, two-story building we will imagine three 
rooms and a hall in first story, the same number on the 
second floor, and a rear part with kitchen, pantry, and 
back staircase, and cellar under this, and on second floor of 
rear part a servant's room and bath-room. The sills should 
be eight inches square, the floor joists for first floor two by 
ten inches, and framed into the sills even with the tops of 
the same, so that when the floor is laid it will just come 
evenly over the sills, to prevent rats and mice from gaining 
an entrance, for these pests are one of the most annoying dis- 
advantages in most wood dwellings, as they are generally 
constructed. 

Now proceed to put up the outer walls of the house of 
two by four scantling, with ledger boards one by five 
inches cut in for second story floor joists to rest upon, and 
plates doubled and spiked down on top of scantling for 
rafters. Cover the outside of frame with good, sound 
boards, dry, or nearly so. 

The frame should either be dry, or after being put into 
the building should have a chance to dry before plastering 
is put on. Boards should be planed, as you cannot make 
them lay down even with each other if of uneven thickness. 
On the inside, between the outside studding, nail on furring 
strips one inch square with the face one and a half inches 
from outside of studding, and to these lath in the ordinary 
manner, and put on one good coat of rich, brown mortar; 
this is known as hack plastering. We know of no way so 
well adapted for making a warm house as this. 



FIBE-PBOOF WOODEN BUILDINGS. 41 

If your frame is not dry, or if studding is wet or green, 
they might shrink and leave small crevices for air between 
furring strips and studding. We might observe right here 
that it is of vast importance to have the timber for floors 
and partitions well dried, either for wood buildings or brick 
and stone. 

This back plastering will cost from ten to twelve cents 
per square yard, including lathing; and considering the 
great benefit of a warm, dry house, it should be put in most 
good houses at least. This arrangement leaves an air-space 
next to the outside boarding, and one next to inside plaster- 
ing, thereby effectually excluding dampness and wind. 

Another thing that should be done to help overcome the 
disadvantage of wood buildings, as compared with brick and 
stone, is to render them comparatively safe from total de- 
struction by fire. As usually constructed, walls are so 
many flues on the outside, leaving free access for draughts 
of air to fan a fire and spread it with lightning rapidity 
from cellar to garret, so that when discovered it is beyond 
control. 

Such walls also allow vermin to pass up and in between 
the ceiling and floors, if they once get in below. We over- 
come this danger, in a measure at least, in the following 
way: On the level of the second floor, either run the floor- 
ing in between studding, or nail or cut in horizontal pieces 
between each studding, and over these fill in a couple of 
inches of mortar or a course of brick laid in mortar. This 
closes the passages between plaster and boards effectually, 
so that there is no draught should the house catch fire by 
any means on an outside wall. How many times this 
arrangement alone would have kept a fire burning so slowly 



42 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

that it could have been discovered and put out before it 
had worked its way up to the roof. This is one of the pre- 
cautions that can be taken to reduce the risk of fire in 
wooden buildings. Still, most of our brick dwellings, so 
far as their internal construction is concerned, are exceed- 
iagly inflammable; and if a fire is once well under way, it 
usually ruins everything inside. 

Sheathing Paper. 

But to return to our wood house. On the outside walls 
we would place one thickness of tarred building paper with 
the edges lapped, and run it under all finish, as corner 
boards, cornices, window and door frames, etc. This paper 
now costs two and three-fourths cents per pound, and comes 
in rolls of about fifty yards each, on an average, so it will 
be an easy matter to find out about the amount wanted. 

Now these two things — building paper and back plas- 
tering — should be used where a good house is building, 
but on some cheaper houses it may not always do to incur 
the expense. The usual plan here, and for most parts of 
the country, is to paper only in the manner directed above; 
but we are sure, that for a good house, it will pay to bu,ck 
plaster also. 

The roof, if of shingles eighteen inches long, should be 
laid five and one-half inches to the weather, and should be 
laid on roof boards with open joints one and a half inches. 
This is much better for the roof than to have the boarding 
laid with close edges, or matched, as when the shingles are 
wet they absorb a large amount of moisture, and are liable 
to swell and injure the roof. Where roof boarding is open, 
a better circulation of air is obtained and the shingles dry 



SHINGLES AND CLAPBOARDS. 43 

out quickly, while on the other hand, with boards laid close, 
the shingles have to dry from the outside surface entirely, 
or nearly so, and require more time, thereby causing a 
quicker decay of the wood. 

Shingles make a good roof, as almost every one -knows; 
and considering their cost, they are not liable to be super- 
seded by anything else for cheap wooden buildings. The 
slate roof, of course, is much better, both in appearance and 
durability, but its cost must exclude it from general use on 
wooden buildings of moderate cost while shingles are so 
cheap. The best shingles ever made are the old-style hand- 
shaved, but very few are now made. By using a little 
care, in laying sawed shingles, to turn down the brash way 
of the grain, the shingles will last much longer. 

Clapboaeding. 

The outer walls are usually covered with clapboards of 
pine, spruce, or, sometimes, basswood; in this locality, 
usually pine, and this is the best. These boards are made 
from six-inch strips, one inch thick as they come from the 
mills; after being allowed to dry they are planed both 
sides, and jointed, and run through a re-sawing machine, 
making two clapboards out of each inch piece. Clap- 
boards should not be laid to exceed four and one-half inches 
to the weather, and nailed once in twelve inches. In many 
parts of the Eastern States, particularly Maine, Vermont, 
and New Hampshire, large quantities of spruce clapboards 
axe made from small, straight trees which are cut in four and 
six-foot lengths, turned in a lathe and then sawed toward 
the center, the thin edges in, and thick edges out. These 
make a very good clapboard, but great care must be used 



44 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

in putting them on, owing to their liability to split. Some 
painters claim that on these boards paint will not stick 
as well; still, in our experience, where dry clapboards 
have been painted with pure white lead and linseed oil, 
it has ilot come oft". 

Basswood is used in only a few localities where the wood 
is plenty ; if put on dry, and thoroughly nailed and painted 
without getting wet, it makes a very good covering. Clap- 
boards are undoubtedly the best covering for outside walls 
of wood buildings. Boards ten inches wide, running per- 
pendicularly and battened at the joints, make a good out- 
side covering. 

Now-a-days we sometimes venture upon the grounds of 
our ancestors by shingling outer walls, but usually for 
eftect only, in gables, where a few shingles laid in a panel 
or above a belt course, cut in some attractive pattern and 
paiuted in some rich or warm color, have a pleasing effect. 
The great disadvantages in the protection of exposed 
surfaces of wooden buildings, render the material less 
desirable for certain classes of residences, and thei'e is not 
the least doubt that less perishable materials are preferable, 
other things being equal. 




^^J!^p^^^^ ^, 



DURABLE FLOORS. — A BETTER PLAN FOR FLOORS SUG- 
GESTED. — OPEN JOINTS AND HOW TO PREVENT THEM. 
— INSIDE FINISH. — THE BEST WOODS AND HOW TO USE 
THEM. — PREVENTION OF SWELLING IN LUMBER. 




o»;c 



INE and spruce are the kinds used most for 
ordinary floors that are to be covered with 
carpeting. In tlie Middle and Western States, 
the flooring is matched and laid the first thing 
after the roof is on the building. In the Eastern 
States, a floor of cull boards, planed to an even 
thickness and unmatched, is laid as soon as the 
floor joists are in place, and this comes very 
handy to work upon during the process of 
constructing the walls, either in wood or brick 
buildings. 
After plastering and other work of inside finishing are all 
done, and the base board in place, the last or upper floor 
is laid over the cull floor previously laid. The last floor 
is made of pine, or more commonly there, spruce, unmatched, 
the edges jointed, and the measure taken for each piece, 
which is cut in place and laid, commencing on either side of 

[45] 



46 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

the room and meeting in the center, fitting each end to 
a joint against base board. The last opening near the center 
is measured, and a piece fitted and sprung into place, mak- 
iner the whole floor tierht. It is then lined off and nailed on 
both edges. 

This makes a very good floor, though costing somewhat 
more than a matched floor. The edge of such a floor being 
inside of base board, if there is any settling it will not show 
an open joint, as in the plan of putting the base board 
on the floor, when any shrinkage will leave an opening. 

In kitchens, this plan of laying the floor inside of finish 
is particularly good, as the floor frequently wears out in 
time, and has to be replaced, which can be done without 
disturbing other finish. 

Hard-wood floors are much used, and those made from 
the following woods are desirable: White oak, hard maple, 
cherry, and ash, if straight grained. 

In the Eastern States, much southern hard pine is 
used for public buildings and factories. This has a smooth, 
hard, glassy surface, and makes an excellent floor to stand 
the wear. 

We omitted to mention the use of matched sheathing 
for outer walls, in connection with our remarks on outside 
covering; this is desirable many times for fronts in city 
or town ; but in the way it is usually put on, horizontally, 
in many places, we think it serves a very poor purpose. If 
the sheathing applied in this way is ever so dry, the 
tendency is to produce leaks and rotten joints. The rain, 
beating against the wall, works into the joints, and falling 
in behind window-frames, many times causes leaks and 
swells open the joints of the sheathing, so that the appear- 
ance is anything but pleasing. 



finishing: 47 

We frequently sheathe the fronts of houses, but we 
first board and paper outside in the usual manner; then 
we use perfectly dry matched pine, seven-eighths inch thick 
and two and a half inches wide (having it narrow lessens 
risk of shrinkage), putting it on vertically, and wherever 
it comes on a window cap, or roof, we turn the tin well 
up under. The reasons why this method is better are 
obvious. It cannot leak, for if any water should get into a 
joint, it runs out at the lower end, and the joints running 
vertically, the water will not have much tendency to get 
into them. Besidas, this method looks better. 

We have, in this city, known of many instances where 
the fronts of houses sheathed horizontally have leaked, and 
the owners have had them clapboarded to put a stop to 
the annoyance. 

The best finish for all outside wood-work, as is well 
known, is pine. Nothing else, of the many different kinds 
of wood, possesses the quality of withstanding the storms 
and weather changes as does pine, when, of course, pro- 
tected with paint. 

All outside finish, so far as practicable, should be primed 
before being put into the building. We have found from 
practice that the moldings of columns, as they are fitted 
and cut for their respective places, should be hollowed out 
on the back, or heel, of the miter, and the joints painted one 
coat. A column made from dry pine, with its joints 
put together in the same way, will not show the joints 
of the capital and molded bases open, like many frequently 
seen on new work carelessly put up. 

The cause of open joints is plain. The water striking 
the column and running down onto the capital and base, 



48 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

thoroughly saturates them ; they swell, and if what is known 
as the heel, or thick part of the miter, has not been hol- 
lowed out as above, the outer parts are forced apart, leaving 
an ugly gap for the painter to cover up ; if cut away, it can 
swell without forcing the joint open on the outer corner. 

Pine is also mostly used for all kinds of inside finish in 
the ordinary class of buildings or houses. Whitewood, 
known in some parts of the South as poplar, is used to some 
extent where this kind of wood is plentiful, and being a soft 
wood, it is very easy to work; the surface finishes down 
smoothly, and takes paint well. Indeed, it gives a better 
surface for painted work than it is possible to obtain on 
pine, and there is no pitch to come through, and but few 
knots to be found in it. It is not abundant enough to 
compete with pine in all markets, and although there are 
very few knots or " shakes" to contend with, it has a way 
of checking in seasoning, from the ends, that causes a large 
waste to the consumer. These checks extend from one to 
four feet from either end, and we know of no way to pre- 
vent this. Having used a large amount of it in years past^ 
we think there is none. Bass-wood, a pure, white, soft, 
pliable wood, fully as soft as pine, is much used for carriage 
and sleigh bodies, and indeed for almost any finishing that 
requires bending for form, where great strength is not 
demanded. 

This wood takes on a fine finish, as may be observed by 
noticing the brilliant, coal-black polish on carriage bodies. 
It makes a very good inside finish, but must be well secured 
in place, wherever used, as it will, before being painted, 
quickly absoi'b moisture, and warp into all manner of 
shapes. It has never been used very extensively in cities 



THE BEST WOODS. 49 

for inside finishing, its use being confined principally to 
certain localities where it is abundant and cheap, and wheie 
pine is not so plenty. 

In the Eastern States the farmer, having trees of this 
variety in his forest, and no pine, cuts them into finishing 
lumber, and uses it to save the purchase of pine. Like 
whitewood, it is much used in cabinet work for drawers and 
backing of furniture. It resembles the whitewood in most 
respects, being free from knots and liable to checking in the 
ends during seasoning, but it is softer and whiter. The woods 
enumerated in the foregoing list comprise those most used 
for painted work on interior finish, save in California, where 
redwood is used very largely. This wood has the peculiar 
disadvantage of shrinking endwise of the grain. 

In either of the two woods mentioned in comparison with 
pine, neither is so well suited for doors and sash, as they will 
warp, and must be secured in place to something solid. 
This is particularly true of bass-wood. 

Whitewood is sometimes used for doors, but does not stand 
like pine; so when we consider the question of general 
utility, pine is really the best of all, and we know of noth- 
ing that retains its form as well. For inside finish, it 
should be got out some time before being put into 
the building, and kiln-dried either before or after work- 
ing; and the best and only way anything like a good 
house should be finished, is in the following manner: 
The plastering should be put on ai-ound all doors, windows, 
wainscotings, and base, and all the plaster work should be 
thoroughly dry before the lumber for finish is taken into 
the house, as dry pine, taken into even a damp room and 
left for a few days, wiU absorb considerable moisture, and if 

4 



50 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

put on the walls before it is dry, it will surely open in the 
joints. 

A very good plan, which we have seen used, is to give 
lumber for casings or architraves, a coat of shellac on the 
back side, which keeps the moisture, if there be any in the 
wall, from entering the wood. 

For finishing cheap houses, the plan most generally 
followed, is to put on plaster ground for the base board 
only, and then put on the first member of the architrave 
around doors and windows, and finish the plastering to 
this, and after mortar is dry, to put on a band molding, as 
it is called, lapping o%'er the casing and back onto the 
plaster, covering the joint between casing and the mortar. 
This plan answers very well for cheap houses, the only 
difficulty being that the finish first put on will swell up by 
contact with wet mortar and cause open joints, which will 
have to be filled with putty by the painter. 




Cmaftr^ '^1. 



STAIR CASES. — DIRECTIONS FOR BUILDING. — NEW STYLE OF 
BANISTERS. — REAR STAIRCASE. — HARD WOODS. — BLACK- 
WALNUT. — HOW TO FINISH A HOUSE IN HARD. WOOD. 
— VENEERING HARD WOODS. 




ol»{o 



HE staircase in the better class of houses should 
not be built, save the rough carriages, until after 
plastering is completed and dry, for the rea- 
sons before stated. The "treads and risers" 
for all good stairs should be ganed, or housed in, 
to back stringer, as the term is used ; and where 
the face stringer is cased up or made what Is 
known as a close stringer, they .should be housed 
into this also, and these grooves should be cut 
on a bevel, and wedged and glued in place 
solid and nailed. In the corner, between the 
stringers, a small, square, pine block, some six inches long, 
should be glued in against "tread" and "riser." This 
holds the stairs, or "treads" and "risers," solidly together, 
and prevents the squeaking so often heard when going up 
and down many apparently good flights of stairs. All 
kinds of wood used for inside finish are used in stair 
work. [51] 



52 OUR HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

Until within a few years, the post at foot of stairs, or 
newel post, banisters, and rail have been made from black- 
walnut, except in the more pretentious houses, where 
mahogany is sometimes used. But at the present, in the 
East, very little black-walnut is used for stair work, ash, 
oak, and butternut, being substituted. We have now, in 
ordinary houses even, broken away, in a measure at least, 
from the old-style turned newel post and banister, and in 
their place you find a square post for a newel, ornamented 
in a simple and pleasing manner on the base and shaft, with 
a cap formed in a graceful outline to the top, for a gas-light 
stand, or candelabrum, or if this is not wanted, an orna- 
ment of wood. On the side of staircase, in place of the 
banisters is found a neat design for a series of cut panels, 
made quite open, so as not to look too "boxey," and this 
surmounted by the rail. 

If there is room in the arrangement to turn the stair 
once, at least, when part way up, on a level landing, with a 
square angle post at the corner, the effect is good. The 
level landing of course takes a little more room. An ordi- 
nary flight of stairs can be made in a neat and simple de- 
sign, something after the plan stated above, at a cost very 
little more than the old style, and it looks very much better. 

A window of stained glass, over a staircase, or at a 
landing part way up, gives a very pretty effect of color 
in the hall below. Rear or back stairs are not always 
housed in the stringer, but in a good house it is better, 
and there should never be over three " winders " in turning 
a comer, as when more are used it renders the steps so 
narrow that a person going down is Hable to fall. 

In building, always bear in mind that back stairs are 



HARD WOOD FINISH. 53 

used as much by nearly all the occupants as the front stairs, 
and therefore as much care should be taken in their 
construction. 

Kinds of Hard Wood Generally Used in Inside 

Finishing, and the Manner of Using and 

Applying the Same. 

The following constitute the principal kinds of native 
hard woods used: Black-walnut, black or brown ash, 
butternut, white ash, white maple, white oak, red oak, red 
cherry, and sometimes birch and beech, but not to any great 
extent. The days of black-walnut are already numbered 
for lavish use in finishing buildings, and even for furniture. 
The consumption of this beautiful wood in the last ten 
years has been so great that the scarcity now felt is causing 
the price to increase constantly ; and in a few years, at most, 
it will be used but little, even in furniture, and that of 
the most costly kind. Although it is an elegant wood, and 
better adapted for furniture, we think that the finish of our 
houses and public buildings loses nothing by the substitution 
of the lighter hard-woods in its stead. 

Spending several weeks recently in the cities of New 
York and Boston, and visiting many fine houses as well 
as public buildings, the author observed the general absence 
of black-walnut finish even among the opulent. In the 
West, where we can obtain it at a lower price than in 
the East, we still adhere to it. Although, in our own 
practice for the last four years we have been in favor of 
using light, hard- woods, exclusive of any trimming up with 
black-walnut. We have found, in the majority of cases, 
that the prejudice in its favor is so strong that our patrons 
would overrule our preference, and have the black- walnut. 



64 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

In the last two years we have finished a few houses 
in light wood, and the indications are that we shall now 
soon follow our Eastern friends in its use. The light woods 
give a welcome, bright effect to an interior, their grain, 
when finished properly by the painter, standing out clear 
and beautiful. A room finished with light woods, in our 
opinion, presents a more cheerful appearance and has noth- 
ing of the gloomy effects produced by darker woods. Our 
furniture generally being dark, the variety of upholstering 
usually produces all the contrast required for effect without 
the use of walnut finish. 

The author has now in process of construction a 
residence to cost twelve thousand dollars, with finishing as 
follows : The parlor and sitting-room finished in buttei-nut ; 
the vestibule, front hall, and staircase, all black-walnut; the 
dining-room, library, and entire remainder of house, in red 
oak. The finishing of the hall and staircase in walnut was 
simply a compromise with the proprietor, who in the 
beginning was determined to run streaks of walnut all the 
way through the different rooms, but finally consented to 
the arrangement given above. 

In the East, you can find beautiful staircases in light 
woods, and will be surprised at their beauty. There are, as 
yet, but few in the city of Detroit. 

The first proceeding with all kinds of hard- wood is to 
get it thoroughly kiln-dried; and a good amount of care 
should be used, so that the planks or boards will not warp 
and spring while in the kiln. 

In securing the best effect of grain, much depends upon 
the sawyer; the sidings taken off produce fine grain, and 
quartering the log through is a good way to show the grain. 



VARIETIES OF HARD WOOD. 55 

In our judgment brown ash is one of the richest of our 
native woods; the pleasing variety of forms the grain 
assumes, especially the mottled or vai'iegated color (some- 
times called by dealers, " calico ash ") is very rich, desirable, 
and much sought after for the Eastern market. Most 
specimens of this wood are of a soft, brashy nature, easily 
worked, and take on a fine, smooth finish when worked 
down, in consequence of which it is much used in furniture. 

White oak is an exceedingly tough, hard-wood, and very 
difficult to work and bring down to a smooth finish. This 
can of course be done, but it costs a good deal in hand labor 
to accomplish it. 

Red oak is less difficult to work, being more of the 
nature of ash, but tougher; the grain is finely marked in a 
variety of forms, and the red, bright color gives it a very 
fine, rich efiect when finished. 

White or hard maple is a very hard, bright wood, 
and very white (except the heart of the tree), used but 
little for finishing work, but more for floors, the grain 
being ordinary. Bird's-eye maple is much sought after for 
car work, and is sometimes used in houses. 

Red cherry has a very fine grain, and a rich, reddish 
color, taking on a fine polish, and in some degree resembling 
some varieties of mahogany. It is now much used in 
the East for finishing staircases, dininsf-room wainscotinsrs, 
etc., and is very beautiful for such purposes. It is also used 
extensively in the manufacture of school desks. 

Some persons are led astray in regard to the difierence 
in cost of finishing in hard- woods and pine; the price per 
thousand feet is about the same, but the difference in cost 
arises from the fact that there is always more waste in hard- 



56 OUR HOMES AND THE IB ADORNMENTS. 

wood than pine, and that more hand labor is required 
to produce a fine job of joining in hard- wood. 

Doors of hard-wood should always be made by veneering 
on pine. Make, first, a plain pine stile and rail door, and 
make the ^:)a'>7e^s of the kind of hard- wood intended; 
then glue upon the pine frame, covering it up entirely, a 
thin covering of the hard-wood desired, one-fourth to three- 
eighths of an inch thick. When this work is dry, cut the 
desired moldings of the hard-wood, and secure them on the 
edges against rail and stiles, as in any other door. Such a 
door, if properly made, will stand without warping. The 
pine, being better to keep true than any known wood, 
makes an excellent foundation to hold the hard-wood. 

Another plan in common use for making a hard-wood 
door, two and one-fourth inches thick, for instance, is to 
make two doors of equal thickness and glue them together, 
both being framed separately. When thus glued together, 
a door is much stronger and less liable to warp than one 
equally as thick made of a single piece of wood. 




CxFIJ^F^a^RR ^11. 



SOMETHING MORE DURABLE. — BRICK AND STONE HOUSES. — 
THEIR COST. — VENEER BRICK AND STONE WORK. — HOW 
TO PREVENT BRICK WALLS FROM SWEATING. — STONE 
TRIMMINGS FOR BRICK HOUSES. 




o>*:o 



HERE is something in the word stone suggestive 

of stability ; something that conveys the idea of 

endurance, solidity, and capability to stand the 

tempest, the wear of winter's ice and snow, and 

of summer's parching rays. This ability to 

withstand the forces of the elements, and to 

maintain intact in spite of the.se forces, renders 

stone the natural product of nature, and brick 

the offspring of man's genius, especially suitable 

for purposes of building, both for domestic and 

commercial use. And then it gratifies the 

natural vanity of a man to be able to erect a residence of 

such material as will last for generations, and serve as a 

land-mark of family history. 

One great advantage of brick or stone work is, that when 
once properly put up, it requires but little outlay to keep it 
in good repair, while, on the other hand, a building of wood 

[57] 



58 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

must be looked after frequently, and repainted every few 
years, to preserve it from decay and keep it in good ap- 
pearance. A brick house requires more care than stone, as 
the bricks, in time, become discolored, and require to be 
stained and penciled over. 

Security from fire is another consideration in favor of 
stone and brick, houses of these materials being less liable to 
take fire from the outside ; but when once well started in- 
side, a fire will do as much damage to furnishings and 
contents as in a building of wood. 

Comparative Cost. 

The cost of buildings of brick and stone, of course, is 
much more than of wood, being about twenty-five per cent 
more for brick and more yet for stone. The cost of stone 
mainly depends upon the locality of the quarry, the quality 
of the stone itself, the means of transportation, and the ease 
with which it can be worked. 

As brick clay is found in almost every locality, the cost 
of brick depends simply upon the cost of labor, fuel for burn- 
ing, and the relation of supply and demand. It may be 
well to state that quality depends much upon the methods 
and thorouofhness of burning the brick. This matter should 
be looked to in the purchase of brick. Beautiful enameled 
brick of many colors are now made, but their cost is too 
great to bring them into general use, though for special pur- 
poses they give a pleasing effect. 

Veneer Brick and Stone Work. 

A very nice plan for building what may be called a 
half -stone or veneer-stone house, is as follows: On the 



■ VENEER BRICK AXD STONE WORK. 59 

completed foundation wall, back some five inches from the 
outer edge of the water-table, a frame, as for a frame house, 
is erected of two by six-inch studding in the usual manner, 
and then boarded on the inside; fill in from the outside five 
inches thick with brick and mortar against boarding, and 
on top of water-table, outside of brick and mortar, set with 
cement a veneer of sawed stone four inches thick, of con- 
venient size, and anchor each stone to the studding with 
small iron hooks. So build up, fitting in window sills and 
caps, and finish with modern gothic roof, and the house is, 
to all outward appearance, of solid stone. 
^ We can see no reason why buildings erected by this plan 
are not as durable as most houses. The wood is thoroughly 
protected, and if the foundation wall is well laid, no damage 
can arise from settling. We know of some such houses that 
have been standing for many years, and are said to be in a 
perfect state of preservation. 

Brick veneer is made on the same principle. One four- 
inch course of brick is laid from the foundation to top of 
outer wall, anchored once in five courses, and the building 
is taken for one of solid brick. The framing for these 
should be quite dry, and rendered very strong by bridging. 

This class of buildings, we think, should not be encour- 
aged in city or town where houses are so compact, as in 
case of fire the whole wall may tujnble down when least 
expected, burying the firemen under it. Being but four 
inches thick, such walls in reality furnish but little protec- 
tion against intense heat from surroundmg buildings on fire. 

Houses of brick or stone are, in consequence of thick 
walls, much warmer in winter and cooler in summer than 
buildings of wood. The walls should be furred by fasten- 



60 OZTR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

ing strips to them and lathing to these strips, leaving a dead 
space between the plaster and brick or stone. This keeps 
out the moisture, and prevents the annoyance of " sweating " 
walls. If the cellar of any house is not a perfectly dry one, 
put on one coat of good mortar overhead. This effectually 
prevents the passing of dampness from the cellar, and makes 
a warm first floor. 

The modern brick houses of more elaborate finish are 
now trimmed with some of the many fine stones to be found 
in difierent localities. The contrast produced by the fine 
red of the brick and the quiet shades of the stone in sills, 
belting-courses, window and door caps, and the various 
other ways in which it may be needed, is very pleasing 
indeed. We think it desirable to lay the stone flush with 
the brick ; this keeps it cleaner, and it stands better. Pro- 
jecting belts and courses must drop off" the water, which 
leaves soiled marks in its course. 

When the foregoing facts are carefully weighed, we 
think that the majority will agree with us in saying that 
when it is intended to put over four thousand dollars into a 
house, it should be constructed of brick or stone, or both, 
if the locality is such that it can be done without exagger- 
ated difierence in cost. 




dmAF^TRR VfK, 



VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS AND EULES. — METHODS OF ESTIMAT- 
ING WOEK AND MATEEIAL. — HOW TO FIND THE 
AMOUNT OF LUMBER NECESSARY TO ERECT A GIVEN 
BUILDING. — PRICES OF LABOR. 



o>»ic 



XCAVATING CELLARS.— This is estimated by 
the cord of 128 cubic feet, by the square foot, or 
square yard. One to two dollars per cord is 
usually paid, according to hardness of the subsoil. 
Dizains, — So much per lineal foot, according 
to depth and hardness of subsoil. Pipes for 
drains cost in proportion to their size. 

Stone-ivork for foundations, — Usually 16^ 

cubic feet, estimated at so much per perch, laid 

in the wall, and costs according to kind and 

quality of stone. 

Brick-work — Is figured by number of cubic feet in the 

wall, 22 common brick to the foot. Prices for laying up 

the wall vary with cost of labor. 

Plastering. — This is estimated by the square yard, — for 
three-coat work, twenty -five cents; and two-coat work, 
twenty cents per square foot, including mortar. Stucco or 
plaster cornice work, from thirty cents up, per lineal foot. 

[611 




62 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

For center-pieces of stucco, the cost is two dollars and 
upward. 

Car'penter-work. — For framing, compute the number of 
feet of board measure in frame, and to the cost of this add 
eight dollars per thousand feet for ordinary framing. For 
brick walls, allow five dollars per thousand feet for labor; for 
common boarding of walls, roofs, and rough floors, add to the 
cost of boards four dollars per thousand feet for labor ; for 
shingles, one dollar and fifty cents per thousand for laying. 

Cornicing — Must be estimated at so much per lineal foot, 
and costs according to the amount of work. 

Windows — Are reckoned by the piece, considering finish 
inside and out, all complete save the glazing. 

Doors. — Double doors for entrance, if of pine, are twelve 
dollars per pair upward, according to style, — walnut, from 
thirty dollars upward ; common doors, from six dollars up- 
ward; inside sliding doors, from twenty dollars per pair, 
upward, according to finish. 

Floors,— LaXdi, add one dollar to cost of every ten square 
feet of lumber. For base, the cost is so much per lineal foot 
for lumber, and three dollars per hundred feet put down; 
wainscoting, so much per square foot. 

Staircases. — Common, straight, cylinder staircases, 
with curved rail, and casings at all angles of stringers, and 
common newel posts and turned banisters, cost about forty- 
five dollars; winding stairs, ninety dollars; and so on, the 
cost varying with the amount of work. 

Bay-windows, — One story, forty -five dollars ; two stories, 
eighty-five dollars. 

Clapboarding or weathei'-hoarding. — For this work, 
add to cost of lumber ten dollars per thousand feet, but if 
much fitting is required this amount will not be enough. 



METHODS OF ESTIMATING WORK. 63 

Painting — Is computed at so much a square yard ; and 
for glazing, take the size and consult some good dealer or a 
good price list. 

Cresting — Costs so much per lineal foot. 

Harchuave and plumbing— Qoni according to the 
quality of material and the amount of work. 

In the foregoing estimate the prices quoted are perhaps 
an average; in the country the cost will usually be less. 

Measuring. 

A foot of lumber is a piece 12 inches square and 1 inch 
thick; a board 12 inches wide, 1 inch thick, and 10 feet long 
contains 10 feet of lumber. 

To measure hoards, — Multiply the length in feet by the 
width in inches, and divide by 1 2 ; the result is the number 
of feet in the board if 1 inch thick; if 1| inches thick, add 
\; if l-g- inch thick, add | ; if 2 inches thick, the board will 
contain twice as many feet, and so on. 

To measure a pile of lumber. — If the boards are of 
equal length and width, multiply the feet in one board by 
the number of boards. If the boards are of equal length, 
but vary in width, measure each board with a tape-line, 
drawing it out as each board is measured ; and when the pile 
is completed, examine the tape-line, find how many feet you 
have measured off, and multiply this by the length, in feet, 
of one board. If the boards vary in length, they must be 
measured separately, or averaged. 

To find number of feet in studding, etc. — Multiply 
length and breadth in inches by length in feet, and divide 
the product by 12. The result will be number of feet in the 
stick. 



64 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

To find hoiu many feet of homher a log will make. — 
Take the average diameter in inches and subtract 4, square 
one-fourth of the remainder, and multiply by the length of 
the log in feet. The result will be the correct number of feet 
that the log will make. 

Amount of lumber for a given building. — By apply- 
ing the foregoing rules, any one may find the numbei* of feet 
of lumber required for a given building. Begin with sills, 
and calculate for each kind of lumber separately, adding the 
results. For clapboarding, add one-third for lapping; for 
matched flooring, add one-fifth for waste. 

Shingles. — The number of shingles required for a roof 
is usually estimated at one thousand for every square, or one 
hundred square feet; hence, find the square feet in the roof 
and divide by one hundred, — result is the number of thou- 
sand shingles. This estimate is ample, and with good shin- 
gles 1000 should lay 125 to 140 feet. 

Or, find the area in inches, multiply the width of a 
shingle by the length exposed to the w^eather, and divide the 
area by the product. This gives the number of shingles, 
but there must be allowance made for waste. Shingles are 
laid from three to six inches to the weather, according to 
length, and they vary in width, four inches being the 
average width. 

For clapboarding, — Add one-third to the number of 
surface feet to be covered, for boards, 6 inches wide, laid 4| 
inches to the weather. 

For flooring, — add one-fifth to the surface feet, for 
matching. 

In plastering — It is customary to compute the whole 
area and deduct one-half the area of doors and windows, but 
in some places no deduction is made. 



G.Hi\F>i"Ri^ TX. 



N- HOUSE PAINTING. ^ 



ITS PHILOSOPHY. — BEST TIME TO PAINT. — KINDS OF 
PAINT. — COLORS. — MIXING. — OILS AND DRIERS. — APPLY- 
ING PAINTS. — PRIMING. — SECOND COAT. — FINISHING 
COAT. — BRUSHES, — GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. 




AINT, composed of a mixture of oil and mineral, 
generally white lead, and applied to wood, iron, 
and even stone, acts as a preserver by shielding 
the surface from the action of rain and the 
atmosphere. 

A building left unpainted any length of time, 
absorbs moisture quickly ; and besides rendering 
the rooms unhealthful, by reason of moisture, it 
decays very rapidly. 

The best time to apply paint is in the spring 
or autumn. Cool weather, if dry, is better, as 
the paint hardens naturally and presents a firmer surface to 
the action of the elements. In summer, when exposed to 
the sun, the oil in the paint soaks into the wood and leaves 
the lead to crumble and wear off' quickly ; yet if care is taken 
to apply the paint at proper hours, the action of the sun will 
affect it but little. 

B [65] 



66 OUR HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

Kinds of Paint. 

Pure white lead is the base or body of all durable 
paiDts, and is vastly superior to all others for first coats. 
Owing to the fact, however, that it is prepared by an acid 
process, it is not so good in a pure state for outside coats, as 
it is in many cases not thoroughly washed and contains 
more or less acid, and when so exposed to sun and rain the 
presence of the acid is liable to make it powder and rub off 
like whitewash. 

Zinc, which is prepared by fire process (oxidized), con- 
tains no acid or other inj urious substance ; and when mixed 
with white lead, it forms the best outside coats, the zinc 
neutralizing the acid in the lead and giving additional firm- 
ness to the body. 

The mineral paints contain iron as their base, and are 
mixed with oil and prepared for use as lead and zinc. 
Many manufacturers now put up paint in cans, ready for 
use, and there is abundant room for deception. Consumers 
should beware and purchase of reliable dealers. 

Colors. 

Which color should be used in painting a house, is 
purely a matter of taste. The surroundings determine this 
to a great degree. A house surrounded with heavy foliage 
would require a lighter tint than one standing in an open 
space. Every house should have two or more tints; the 
cornice and verandas should be of a contrasting shade with 
the body of the house, while the shutters, etc., should have a 
darker tint than either. Of the various colors, the olive tints 
in their different shades are very pleasing to the eye, also 



HOUSE PAINTING. 67 

lavender, drabs, stone, etc. A pea-green is a very healthful 
color, and with proper contrasts in veranda and shutters is 
very pleasing. 

Mixing Colors. 

An endless variety of colors and tints can be produced 
by mixing. The following are only a few of them, — such 
as may be serviceable: — 

'Stone Color. — White lead and a little black. 

Drab. — White lead with burnt umber and a little yellow 
ochre for a warm tint ; raw umber and a little black for a 
green tint. 

Sky-blue. — White lead with Prussian blue. 

Buff. — White lead with yellow ochre. 

Cream-color. — Add more white to the buff. 

Olive-green. — Raw umber with Prussian blue, thinned 
with boiled oil and turpentine. 

Pea-green. — White lead with Prussian blue and chrome- 
yellow. 

Lead Color. — White lead and black. 

Oils and Driers. 

Oils and turpentine should be pure and free from dust 
and other substances. 

To aasist the process of drying paints, driers are used. 
Those most in use are sugar of lead, litharge, and white 
copperas. When ground and mixed with paint, they assist 
the process of drying very much. Where it does not affect 
the color, red lead may be used as a drier. 

Boiled linseed oil with litharge, one gallon of the 
former with one-fourth pound of the latter reduced to a 
powder, makes an excellent drier. It should here be 



68 OUR HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

remarked that driers have a tendency to injure the colors, 
and hence should not be used in finishing coats. 

Applying Paints. 

Before applying paint, the surface to be painted should 
be carefully cleaned, and all projections of glue, putty, and 
whitinof removed with knife and duster. 

Knots should be killed by the application of knotting, 
which is made with red lead, carefully ground and thinned 
with boiled oil ; another and better plan is to apj)ly a varnish 
of shellac. 

If knots are neglected, they give out turpentine and 
destroy the paint. Shellac is a gum, in natural state, and 
can be dissolved in alcohol in the proportion of three pounds 
of gum to one gallon of spirits ; twenty-four hours is sufii- 
cient time to dissolve it, when it is known as shellac varnish, 
and by adding proper coloring matter, it forms an excellent 
varnish for many purposes. Paint should never be applied 
to damp or wet surfaces, as it is sure to peel off. 

Priming. 
After the knotting is complete, the priming, or first coat, 
should be applied. This coat should be composed chiefly of 
white lead, mixed with a very small quantity of red' lead, 
and should be about the thickness of milk. Eight to twelve 
gallons of oil to every one hundred pounds of lead, is about 
the proportion ; and one pound should cover fifteen to twenty 
square yards. It is not necessary that this first or priming 
coat should be of the color intended- for finishing, as the 
later coats will secure the desired tint. In some cases a 
second priming coat, thinner than the first, is laid on, in 
which case two coats more will make an extra good job of 
painting. 



HOUSE FAINTING. 69 

After the priming coat is quite dry, all nail-holes, cracks, 
and other defects should be filled with putty, smoothing all 
rough places with fine sand-paper. In priming old walls, 
remove dirt and decayed wood with sand-paper and pumice- 
'stone ; shellac sizing may also be applied if the wood is some- 
what porous, and more red lead used than on first coat for 
new work. 

If brick buildings are to be painted, the priming coat 
should be native minerals, such as ochres, Venetian red, or 
iron, with a proper amount of raw linseed oil, as these will 
adhere more permanently and make a good foundation for 
future coats. 

Second Coat. . 

This coat is a color coat, and the tint, if paint is not 
already prepared with desired color, can be made from the 
directions previously given for mixing colors. This coat 
should be a shade darker than the finishing coat. 

The paint for this coat should be moderately thick; if 
applied in cold weather or under unfavorable circumstances, 
the quantity of driers must be increased. If the work is to 
be left shining, this coat should be thinned almost entirely 
with linseed-oil, in which case no driers will be needed. 

Finishing Coat. 

If the work is to be glossy when finished, use more oil 
than turpentine and no driers ; but if the work is not to be 
glossy, — -fiat, — use turpentine for thinning. Care should be 
taken to bring this coat to the desired tint, and it should be 
laid on just as soon as the former coat is dry enough to work 
over. This coat should be of same consistency of the pre- 
ceding, and laid on with the utmost care. 



70 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Beushes. 

Brushes are made of all sizes, both round and flat, and 
are chiefly of bristles; the best for outside work are 
called wall-brushes, from three to five inches in width. Fop 
inside and small work the round brush is best. When out 
of use, brushes should be carefully washed in turpentine and 
laid out of the reach of dust. When using, they should be 
left over night immersed in linseed oil or turpentine. 

Varnish brushes should be washed in turpentine, and 
should they be left full of varnish and dry they may be 
cleaned by soaking in alcohol for twenty-four to thirty -six 
hours. Where it is practicable, a separate brush should be 
used in different colors; especially is this true where delicate 
tints are used. 

General Suggestions on Outside Painting. 

•Posts and pillars may be made to represent stone, by the 
following process: Procure a hand bellows, mash the nozzle 
down flat; into the nozzle, two inches from end, solder a 
small funnel, and before the finishing coat of paint dries, 
throw white sand by means of the funnel and bellows 
against the pillar. The sand will adhere, and when dry, 
the work resembles stone very closely. By procuring col- 
ored sand, pleasing combinations can be made. 

For barns and other out-houses, the best paints are those 
which contain iron as a base, as the boards are usually 
rough and this class of paints generally protects such sur- 
faces as well or better than the finer paints, besides being 
cheaper. Brushes should be heavy, as they wear very rap- 
idly. In this class of work, a variety of colors costs no more, 
and adds greatly to the appearance of the work. 



HOUSE PAINTING. 71 

Inside Painting. 

Hard woods, as walnut, ash, and oak, look quite well in 
oil-finish, which is always popular, and preserves the wood 
quite well. The wood should be well filled with a mixture 
of gilder's whiting, or corn-starch and boiled linseed oil to 
the consistency of cream, applied with a brush ; after standi 
ing a little while, the work should be thoroughly wiped off 
with woolen rags. 

After standing a week, or till well dried, the work 
should be well sand-papered with No. | sand-paper or hair- 
cloth, when another coat should be applied and rubbed off 
as before. When dry, the work is ready for the finishing 
or gloss coat, which consists of boiled oil, applied with a soft 
brush, and if a dead gloss is wanted, this coat should be 
rubbed with soft woolen rags. If high gloss is desired, omit 
the rubbing and repeat the coat. Coach varnish will give 
a high gloss, but it is liable to damage from scratches. 

Plastered walls may be painted any desirable tint by ob- 
serving the foregoing directions; it may be well to observe 
that plaster soaks up more paint than wood, and hence re- 
quires more coats after the first coat. It is well to give the 
work a light glue size before applying the next coat, as it 
will give a much more even gloss. 

Oil and Shellac Finish. 

A very cheap and at the same time a popular method of 
finishing inside wood-work, is to apply one coat of boiled oil, 
and when dry, apply a finishing coat of varnish and oil 
mixed, or shellac varnish alone. The natural grain of the 
wood is preserved, and it can be kept clean easily ; the wood 
when thus finished is a shade darker than its natural color. 

Another plan is to apply two coats of varnish, without 
the oil, leaving the wood very glossy, but liable to scratch 
easily. If ever desirable afterward, the wood can be p.ainted 
as usual. 



72 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Graining. 

Graining is a tedious but not too difficult business for 
a person of ordinary intelligence to attempt with a fair 
degree of success. In the outset, a clear idea of the wood to 
be represented, should be in mind. A good plan, where the 
commoner woods are to be represented, is to procure a 
board having one or more sound knots and plane it off, and 
with this for a model, proceed to grain the job in hand. 

Before the graining properly commences, the work 
should be made very smooth with sand-paper and putty, 
and one or more priming coats of white lead should be laid 
on and allowed to dry; the work is then ready for ground 
coat. 

The Tools. 

These are few and comparatively inexpensive, — besides the 
brushes necessary for applying the color, steel combs, coarse 
and fine, and soft, cotton rags. 

The brushes and combs can be found at any store where 
paints are sold. Formerly a leather comb was used, and 
may be desirable; if so, any one can make it, using stifi' 
leather. 

The Ground. 

This is the base of the graining, and should be as near 
the color of the wood as possible, care being taken not to get 
it too dark. 

The ground for maple, ash, and oak is about the same, 
a light cream for the maple and a shade darker for the oak 
and ash ; walnut ground is of a deep copper color. 



HOUSE PAINTING. 73 

The Graining Color, 

or the color which shows the veins and growth of the wood, 
is the most important, as the dehcate lines of the wood are to 
be traced in it. When the ground has been laid on and is 
quite dry, this graining coat is laid on, and while yet moist, 
the tracings of the peculiarities of the wood are made. 

Before proceeding to give specific instructions, it may be 
well to note a few general suggestions on the figuring of 
woods. 

Knots should have a dark center with a succession of 
very irregular circles, which on the outer edge become 
elongated till they merge into the sap of the timber length- 
wise. 

The sap, which in the natural wood is the smooth, 
shining part of the board, is made by wiping off* the grain- 
ing coat with a cotton rag drawn over the thumb, the nail 
of which is made to outline the sap, while by means of the 
fleshy part the broader lights of sap may be wiped out, 
observing to move the rag with every stroke to present a 
clean surface for the next. After having wiped the figures, 
they should be retouched with a small roll of clean rag. 

Veining or Combing. 

Take a coarse steel or leather comb and draw it down 
lengthwise of the wood, and g(^ over the same with a finer 
comb. Next take a fine comb and go over this work; at 
irregular intervals give the comb a quick wavy motion, 
diagonally, thus imitating the growths of the wood. In all 
eases the combing should precede the sap work. 



74 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Ash Graining. 

Ground. — White lead, raw Italian sienna, or golden 
ochre instead of sienna, mixed with turpentine and oil, 
using small proportions of oil. To get the desired color, 
which should be a light straw tint, keep adding sienna to 
the lead, and try it frequently on a board. Apply with a 
brush very smoothly. Observe that this ground is the same 
also for light oak and maple. 

Graining Color. — Raw sienna, burnt umber, and white 
lead mixed with turpentine and very little oil form the grain- 
ing color. The tint is darker than the ground tint, and is 
made in the same way. The graining coat must be put on 
in small quantity so that the work may be done before it 
dries. 

To prevent the paint from running, add a small quantity 
of soft soap. Proceed with the graining as in foregoing 
instructions, and if a mistake is made, apply more paint and 
begin anew. Apply one or more coats of varnish. 

Old Oak. 

Ground. — Raw sienna, burnt umber, white lead, and 
Venetian red; mix with equal parts of turpentine and oil to 
the desired tint. Let this dry well. 

Grain. — Vandyke brown, and raw sienna, turpentine, 
and small amount of oil. 

Bird's-eye Maple. — Destemper. 

Ground. — White lead, yellow ochre, or same as for ash. 
Use care not to get it too dark. 

Grain. — Equal parts of raw sienna and burnt umber, 



HOUSE PAINT TNG. 75 

mixed with ale or beer. Have two paint buckets and make 
two thicknesses of paint. 

Lay on the thin coat first evenly, then with a smaller 
brush put in the darker shades. The eye is made by 
dabbing the color with the tips of the fingers; shade the 
eye with a little burnt sienna, using a small hair pencil. 
When dry, varnish. 

Mahogany. — 1. Vandyke brown and a little crimson 
lake ground in ale, laid on, allowed to dry, and then 
smoothed, forms the ground. Then lay on a second thicker 
coat, soften with a badger-hair brush, take out the lights 
while it is wet, and imitate the feathery appearance of 
mahogany heart. Soften, and top grain with Vandyke 
brown laid on with an over-graining brush of flat hog-hair 
combed into detached tufts. In softening, be careful not to 
disturb the under color. Or, 2. Grind burnt sienna and 
Vandyke brown in ale, lay on a coat, mottle with a camel- 
hair mottler, and soften. When dry, over-grain as above. 

For the proper varnishes to use, the reader is referred to 
that department of this work. 

It is a matter of great difficulty to prevent varnish on 
outside doors from ^ cracking; for this reason, painters 
recommend that a coat of oil be applied instead, and where 
it becomes dingy, apply more oil with a rag. This will 
avoid the cracking and preserve the graining. 

Doors of the parlor may be ebonized if the furniture and 
carpets wiU harmonize with it. (See Varnishes and Wood 
Dyes.) 



ClmAPa^RR X. 



DESCRIPTIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS CONTINUED. — LATHING 
AND PLASTERING. — CARPENTER WORK. — TIN ROOFS. — 
CRESTINGS AND FINIALS. — DOORS, WINDOWS, BLINDS, 
AND SHUTTERS. — INSIDE FINISH. — MAIN ROOM AND 
KITCHEN. — PLUMBING. — GLAZING. — STORM DOORS. 




o>«o 



^JI^JATHING and Plastering. — In wooden build- 
ings the walls should be made even, so that 
when the plastering is put on, the wall will 
present no "ins and outs." This may be effected 
by trimming all the timbers down to an equal 
width before lathing. 

Stone and brick walls should be furred with 
strips; for brick they are one by two inches, 
nailed to the bond timbers laid in the walls, once 
in nine or ten courses, as they are built up, and 
for stone two by four inches, nailed to plugs 

or wedges, built up with or driven into the walls. These 

furring strips are placed sixteen inches apart from center to 

center, and the lathing nailed to them. 

In the best houses it is customary to cross-fur on ceiling 

joists, as when done, the plastering is less liable to crack. 

[76] 



CONTRACTS WITH TEE CARPENTER. 77 

Laths should be made of spruce, pine, or other soft woods, 
and thoroughly seasoned and dried. The mortar should be 
made of first quality of quicklime and good sharp sand, 
mixed with plenty of long hair. Ceilings should first be 
gauged with a mortar of plaster-of- Paris and lime, followed 
by a coat of browning, or common mortar, and finished 
with a white, hard putty coat made of plaster and quicklime. 
In the better class of houses, three coats are given to the 
ceilings, and two to the walls; this prevents the laths from 
showing through the plaster. All angles should be smoothed 
down, and corners made straight and true. Stucco cornice 
and plaster ornaments for ceilings are giving way to paper, 
which is now prepared in beautiful designs expressly for 
ceilings. 

Carpenter Work. 

In most parts of the country it is usually the custom to 
let the contract for building wooden houses to the carpenter, 
who is frequently a contractor, and sub-contracts the erec- 
tion to other parties. 

There is one evil in this method, against which we wish 
to caution our readers, viz: When the contractor gets the 
whole job in his hands, he is too liable to seek the lowest 
priced sub-contractor for the different kinds of work, such as 
plastering, painting, etc., and the result is a poor job 
thi'oughout. The only remedy for this is to have the con- 
tractor select his subbuilders, and then learn whether they 
are trustworthy before awarding him the contract. 

Another plan is to contract the diflferent kinds of work 
separately, thus securing a better job, as no speculation is 
involved. 



78 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Framing Timbers. 

These may be of any lasting wood, and hence the kmd 
most readily obtained will be used ; spruce, pine, whitewood, 
poplar, or oak, is suitable. In many localities it is custom- 
ary to use sills containing about twice as much material 
as is necessary. If the foundation is properly made, of 
brick or stone, the sills may be two by six inches, but if the 
house is built on piers or posts, the sills should be six by 
eight inches, or eight inches square, with the corners framed 
together, and the joists framed in even with top of sills. 
When smaller timbers are used on brick foundation, the 
flooring joists are not framed in, but rest on top of sills. 

The studding should be of good sound wood, free from 
many knots, two by four inches, cut to an even length, and 
gained on the side for ledger boards which support second 
story joists. Each studding should be nailed to the sill 
with four tenpenny nails; this we believe to be better than 
the old plan of mortising into the sills, as in that case they 
are framed very loose, and cannot stand so much rough 
usage. 

The plates for rafters to rest upon should be two by four 
inches, and should be doubled, and spiked down to each 
studding with thu'ty-penny nails. 

The ledger boards, supporting the joists of second story 
should be of the soundest material, one by five inches, let 
into the studding and spiked to them. 

The first and second story joists should be two by ten 
inches, and the attic joists two by six inches. The joist of 
second story should be spiked to the studding with thirty- 
penny nails. The rafters, if for shingles, should be two by 



CABPENTEB WOBK. 79 

four inches, but if for slate, two by six ; in either case they 
should be set sixteen inches apart, center to center, and 
collared with sound boards nailed to every other pair. At 
doors and windows the studding should be doubled to give 
more strength for casings; and where partitions are placed, 
the floor joists should be doubled. 

Boarding for outside walls should be of sound pine, 
spruce, hemlock, or whitewood, one inch thick, planed on 
one side, laid close joint, and nailed on both edges at every 
bearing. The same kind of boards should be used for 

O 

covering the rafters, but the joints should be laid open; and 
if floors are to be laid double, this kind of boarding will 
answer for bottom floor, and the attic floor will need no 
other flooring. 

Sheathing Paper, see page 42. 

Shingle Roofing, see page 42. 

Clapboarding, see page 43. 

Slate roofs, when of first-class slate, well laid, and all 
joints perfectly fitted, are the most desirable of all There 
are many varieties of slate, and, like Joseph's coat, of many 
colors. It has been the custom to use these different colored 
slates, arranged in pleasing figures, and presenting a very 
good effect, but we are inclined to prefer the jet black slate; 
nothing is richer, and the color will fade but slightly. 

The slate should be seven by fourteen inches, cut to any 
desirable pattern on exposed ends, round, hexagonal, or 
clipped on the corners. Slate should be laid two and a half 
inches head cover, that is, each slate should lap over the 
second one below it that distance, and if the roof is not 
steep, three-inch laps will be required. 

The first course of slate must be doubled, and the last 



80 OUB HOMES AND TEEIB ADORNMENTS. 

course and all small pieces used in fitting must be well 
bedded in elastic cement, made and for sale for the purpose. 

On gothic roofs, and in fact any roof where the roof 
makes an angle, great care should be taken to have the slate 
cut and set to a perfect joint; but as they can never be cut 
so as to make a perfectly water-tight joint, each course must 
be flashed under with tin, that is, tin must be bent over the 
last course and extend up on sheathing so that the next 
course will hide it. All valleys (gutters made by angles of 
roofs) must of course be made of tin, and the slates neatly 
fitted and set in cement. 

In slating about chimneys, the tin should pass under the 
slate and turn up against the bricks ; but this is not enough, 
this tin against the bricks must be cap-flashed, or in other 
words, the mortar must be dug out of bricks just above, and 
tin or sheet lead inserted and turned down, then no leak can 
occur. 

For fire-proofing shingle roofs, see Recipes, Varnishes, 
and Paints. 

Tin Roofs and Trimmings. 

Away from the salt atmosphere of the coast, tin makes 
a good roof, and will last, if good and well put on, for a 
long time. Owing to the fact, however, that there are many 
inferior brands used, these roofs give out prematurely, and 
in consequence, many condemn the material. The best 
brands are M. F. Charcoal, I. X., and I. C, ranking in qual- 
ity in order named ; the last is a thinner tin, not so good, of 
course, but much used. 

All portico, veranda, and bay-window roofs, and all 
sunk gutters on same should be covered with tin. Tin all 
window caps, turning it up four inches under the clapboards. 



CBESTINGS, DOORS AND WINDOWS. 81 

The bay-windows require especial care, being so exposed 
as to make it very difficult to protect them from leaking. The 
tin must extend up under the clapboards, and around the 
studding. 

The conductors, leading water from the roof to the 
ground, should be made of good material. I. X. tin will 
answer, but corrugated galvanized iron, we think, is best, as 
it will expand when water freezes in it, but will not burst. 
All tin roofs and trimmings should be painted with mineral 
paint as soon as they are put up. 

Crestings and Finials. 

The roofs of many buildings can be much improved in 
appearance by the use of some one of the many neat designs 
of ornamental iron crestings, to be supplied by hardware 
dealers or manufacturers. Finials of either wood or iron 
look well upon gables. 

Staircases, see p. 51. 

Floors, see p. 45. 

Portico and veranda floors should be laid of stuff one and 
one-fourth inches thick, and two and one-half inches wide; 
the edges should be painted with white lead, and the floor 
nailed blind, (i. e., in edges of boards, so that the nails will 
not show). 

Doors and Windows. 

All styles of doors and windows are now ready-made 
and are for sale everywhere, so it is only necessary to specify 
in the contract with the builder the kind and style wanted, 
unless special designs are desired. 

Outside and sliding doors should be one and three-fourths 
inches thick, and all other doors one and three-eighths inches 

6 



82 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

thick. Mateinal must be thovoughly kiln-dried, and free 
from knots and sap. Window sash and fi-ames should be 
fitted snugly ; and above all, sash should be hung with cord 
and pulley where the expense can possibly be borne. Sash 
should be from one and three-eighths to one and three-fourths 
inches thick. 

If not hung with pulleys, windows should be supplied 
with convenient locks to hold them at any desired height. 
The casing and stops about windows should receive great 
attention, as here is the place that usually admits much cold 
in winter. 

Blinds and Shutters. 

These are very desirable; but there are difficulties in the 
way of the use of inside blinds, as they may interfere with 
the window drapery. They should be arranged to fold on 
hinges, fourfold being most desirable. The slats should be 
made horizontal, as they hold in place better when arranged 
for the admission of light. 

Outside shutters are usually one and one-fourth inches 
thick, and should be made of the best material, and hung in 
the most substantial manner. Like doors, blinds and shut- 
ters are for sale ready-made, and in contracting, specifica- 
tion should be made of style wanted. Neat locks or catches 
should be put on both inside and outside shutters. 

Inside Finish — Wood-Work. 

Here is the department where. good taste will assert 
itself. The wood finish of the different rooms should receive 
due consideration in the plans and specifications, and definite 
contract of what is to be done should be made with builder. 



INSIDE FINISH. 83 

For buildings of meuium cost, it will be more satisfac- 
tory to finish in soft wood, and pine is the best. When 
well smoothed down and varnished, it presents a beautiful 
contrast with the furnishings; and as it is the cheapest, all 
can afford it, nor should it be discarded by any because it 
is cheap. It can be easily cleaned and re-varnished. 

Main Rooms. 

These should have molded architraves or casings on 
doors and windows, of neat design, resting on plinth blocks 
at the floor. Back plaster under the windows, and cover 
this with a neat sunk panel, extending to the floor and fin- 
ished with raised moldings. 

Base boards should be paneled and finished with a neat 
design of raised moldings on the top. Exposed or project- 
ing corners of plastering should be covered with turned 
beads of pine, extending four feet from base finished with 
neat turned design on each end. 

Second-floor chambers finished same as main rooms, with 
architraves one inch narrower. 

Kitchen. 

This room should be wainscoted on all sides three feet 
high, with matched and beaded sheathing, not to exceed 
four inches in width, applied vertically, and the top finished 
with a neat molded cap. 

The pantry should be finished with one broad shelf, with 
space beneath for flour barrel, which should be closed in its 
place with a door, and from the broad shelf above cut a 
door through to reach the barrel. Adjoining the barrel 
under the shelf, place a tier of three drawers, and if the 



84 OUB HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

length of the pantry will permit, a cupboard may also be 
placed under the shelf. Finish the space above with shelv- 
ing, hooks, and other conveniences. The bath-room should 
be wamscoted same as the kitchen, except behind the tub, 
where it should be; four feet high. 

The bath-tub must be paneled in front with raised 
molding and the top finished with a molded cap. The 
water-closet should have seat and tight-closing cover, both 
hinged to raise separately, and the riser in front paneled 
like bath-tub, hinged at the bottom, and secured by catch 
at top, for convenience in repairs. 

The wash-basin should be supplied with neat paneled 
door and one drawer. 

The Mantel. 

In the Eastern States, mantels of hard wood are now 
quite popular, being gotten up very elaborately. Cheaper 
ones can be made of less costly woods, and when finished 
properly they look quite well. 

The mantel-shelf should rest upon two uprights of wood 
which form the sides of the mantel, and these should be 
paneled and finished with raised moldings. The board im- 
mediately under the mantel-shelf should also match them. 
Our preference, however, is decidedly in favor of marbleized 
slate mantels, which can now be obtained by any one at a 
reasonable cost. 

Further suggestions on mantels will be found under 
House Furnishing. 

Plumbing and Fitting. 

There is, perhaps, no department of house finishing upon 
which the health and comfort of the inmates depends more 



PLUMBING AND FITTING. 85 

than plumbing and fitting, and probably nothing is more 
annoying and dangerous than a poor and incomplete job of 
this work. 

There is no part of the work connected with the erection 
of dwellings, we are free to confess, that we so much dislike 
to contract and superintend, and in a measure become re- 
sponsible for, as the plumbing. 

We recommend that this work be contracted separately, 
and that none but the best workmen be allowed to figure on 
the job; in addition to this, let the plans and specifications 
for the work be complete, and carefully inspect the job as it 
progresses. 

We deem it unnecessary to go into a detailed description 
of plumbing for city residences, as good, trustworthy work- 
men, under the direction of the architect, will be able to 
dictate what should be done, better than can here be 
described. 

For those who have not public water supply, we give a 
few hmts that will be of value; and here let it be remarked 
that for the additional expense incurred, the increased com- 
forts and better health will fully compensate the occupants. 

Our description contemplates a bath-room, with hot and 
cold water, and a water-closet, — one of the greatest con- 
veniences of a house. The hot water attachments may be 
left off", if expense cannot be borne, until the owner is better 
able to incur the cost. 

The greatest care should be taken in the connection of 
the pipes, so that foul gases may not escape into the rooms. 
A tank holding from two to ten barrels should be con- 
structed in the attic above the bath-room, or in the top of 
the bath-room, near the ceiling; it should be in the attic if 



86 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

the building has a deck or flat roof so that the water may 
be conducted to the tank; if a pitch roof, the tank Tiitust be 
in bath-room. 

The tank should be well supported with strong posts or 
partitions, as otherwise the weight of water might cause 
settling of building and cracking of the plaster work. 
Line the tank inside with sheet lead or zinc, lead being 
preferable. A wooden tank might be made by a first-class 
workman, but it is not so durable, and more liable to leak. 
Conducting pipes from roof must empty into the tank, and 
a pipe from the force pump at cistern, or well, must also 
empty into it for filling in case of long droughts. 

A pipe to prevent the tank from overflowing should be 
inserted near the top and led down to a drain or sewer; its 
capacity should be equal to the capacity of the conductors 
from the roof, and it must have a trap, (simply a vertical 
bend in the tube like the letter S,) to prevent sewer gas 
from rising from the drain or sewer. 

A three-quarter inch supply pipe must be sealed into the 
bottom of the tank and led down to the bath-tub, where 
branches should be made to the water-closet and lavatory 
(wash-basin). Faucets of the desired pattern should be 
fixed at the bath-tub and lavatory. 

Hot water may be obtained by setting a thirty or 
forty gallon galvanized iron boiler in the kitchen, making 
all necessary couplings with the stove for heating the water. 
A pipe leading from the tank just described will keep the 
lioiler supplied, and force the hot water up into the bath- 
room for supplying tub and wash-basin, and also for 
cleaning and scrubbing purposes. 

The bath-tub should be lined with ten-ounce planished 



PLUMBING AND FITTING. 87 

copper, and a waste-pipe soldered into bottom of tub, and also 
an overflow pipe near the top, both connecting below the 
tub, and leading off to the soil pipe from water-closet 

Set a water-closet near the tub, (The best made are the 
A. G. Alexander, and the Jennings water-closets, the first 
being preferable,) and connect closet with a four-inch lead 
S trap, which should be sealed into a four-inch iron soil pipe 
extending down to, and sealed into the sewer; complete 
by connecting the pipe from tank with the wash-pipe of 
closet. 

The lavatory, or basin, should be supplied with an over- 
flow bowl, and the waste and overflow pipe should be 
connected, S trapped, and let into the lead S trap in the 
water-closet, and compression faucet connected with supply 
pipe over the bowl. 

A four-inch ventilating pipe made of No. 26 galvanized 
iron, must be connected Avith S trap of water-closet, and ex-' 
tended at least four feet above the roof, terminating with a 
cap. 

Smaller ventilating tubes should connect bath and basin 
trap with this large shaft. 

Another ventilating shaft, nearly as large as the first, 
should be connected with the space under and around the 
water-closet, which is supposed to be boxed up, with a cover 
to shut down on seat, and carried up into attic, and con- 
nected with kitchen or other flue. 

We have thus gone into particulars so that our readers, 
not acquainted with such matters, may see how the object 
desired may be obtained. The expense is not so great as 
might be supposed, and by leaving out the hot water, as we 
have said, it may be reduced; a further reduction, sa^'ing 



88 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

much, might be made by omitting the water-closet, but by 
all means put it in. 

Painting. — See House Painting. 

Glazing. 

Double thick glass, either French or American, is more 
durable, and costs less, proportionately, than glass of single 
thickness. 

In main rooms, at least, the custom now is to make the 
glass large, one pane to a sash, and two to a window; all 
cost considered, it is about as cheap as to put in several panes 
of smaller and thinner glass, and it is far better in appear- 
ance. If the doors are to have cut glass panels, and it does 
not add greatly to the cost to have them, each pane must be 
bedded against putty, that is, putty is first put in around 
the shoulder against which it rests, and the glass pressed down 
against it and secured with glazier points, and then fastened 
with putty; window-glass should be bedded in the same 
manner. 

Haedware. 

The front door should have a good, brass face, or other 
style lock and night latch combined and the knobs of the 
door and door bell and the escutcheon, should be of genuine 
bronze or other durable material. A door bell adds char- 
acter to a house, and it is always a source of annoyance to 
occupants and visitors to be compelled to rap, rap, rap, till 
some one in the back part of the house hears and attends. 
A good bell should be at least four inches in diameter, many 
styles being for sale by dealers. 

The front door should be hung with three butts, four 



DOOBS AND HANGINGS. 89 

and a half inches square, of real bronze or Berlin bronze, 
and if the door is double, the stationary door, or wing, should 
be provided with good strong bolts at top and bottom. 
Slidmg inside doors are very convenient, but to act well, 
must be built in with the walls and must slide on anti- 
friction rollers, run on brass or other solid track. 

Knobs are made of a variety of materials; bronze, por- 
celain, lava, and turned wood are appropriate and durable. 
Sash locks are useful, and should be placed on every window; 
we think the Morris sash lock the best. Cellar and all 
other doors requiring rough usage, should be swung with 
wrought-iron butts. 

Storm Doors. 

In many parts of the country the use of storm doors is 
unnecessary, as in the South, but in all of the Northern 
States they should be put up on houses not provided with 
vestibule entrances, on the approach of cold weather. They 
economize fuel by preventing direct cold currents from the 
entrance door. The storm door can be made by any one 
who can handle tools; and when once made, can be taken 
down and put up each winter by the owner. It should be 
made in sections, and these should be fastened to facings of 
main door and to each other with hooks and staples. The 
storm door itself should be self-closing so that from neglect 
it may not be left open. 

Our object in presenting the foregoing Descriptive Speci- 
fications has been to set forth and explain the details of con- 
struction, so that any one not employing an architect can 
make out his specifications in such a way that the builder 
will leave out nothing. It may also enable those who have 



90 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



plans and specifications made out by a builder or architect, 
to examine the same in connection with these pages and see 
if the quality of material and character of workmanship are 
up to the standard, and whether any omissions have been 
made. 

In another part of the work will be found a Form of 
Contract for building. It has the sanction of good builders, 
and is pronounced good by a legal authority. 




dm^F^T'^m XI. 



HEATING AND VENTILATION. — OPEN FIRE-PLACES. — GRATES 
AND FURNACES. — STEAM HEATING. — HOW TO VENTI- 
LATE. — IMPURE AIR. — nature's DISINFECTANTS. 




o>«c 



HE old fire-place, with its cheery blaze and glow- 
ing back log, and coals that assume ten thousand 
fantastic shapes and pictures, all giving out an 
abundance of heat, cannot be outdone by any 
inventions of modern progress, we think, even 
though more easy methods have been introduced. 
In a location where wood is abundant, we ad- 
vise house owners to have a good, large, open 
fire-place in tlie main living-room, as we think 
this the nearest approach to a means of perfect 
ventilation, the warm flue of the fire-place creat- 
ing a strong draft from near the floor and carrying out the 
foul air. Moreover, the influence of the open fire, with leap- 
ing flames and glowing, crackling coals, draws the family 
around its magic circle and brings the members a little 
nearer each other. 

Grates and Furnaces. 

The nearest approach to the open fire-place is the grate 

[91] 



92 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

for burning soft coal, and when arranged with its ash pit as 
before described in this work, is very easy to keep clean. 
This method of heating is now very general and answei's 
the purpose quite well. A good mantel and grate may be 
obtained at from thirty dollars upward. 

Heatmg furnaces, burning wood or hard coal, are very 
much used also. Out of the many patterns made, some are 
reasonably good, among which we would recommend the 
Boynton, the Magee, the Ruby, and the Dome furnaces. 
All modern styles have a reservoir for holding water, to be 
evaporated into the hot-air chamber, and thereby moistening 
the heated air and giving a warmth more like steam. With 
old-style furnaces, the difficulty was that the air was burned 
or vitiated, and thus rendered unfit to breathe. This ob- 
stacle is mainly overcome in the modern furnace. 

The furnace should have a cold-air supply-box or con- 
ductor leading from the outside, and also a register in the 
hall with conductor leading to the furnace. This will take 
the cold air from the rooms when heating begins. The 
supply conductor from outside should be ample, and should 
have a cut-off for regulating the supply of cold air. 

Most furnaces can be used without being covered with 
brick ; but we advise, as a means of economizing heat, that 
they be bricked in, first by a single four-inch wall, and 
around this, with an air-space of ten inches between, an 
eight-inch wall. This arrangement leaves a space between 
the furnace and first wall, and the inside of this wall should 
be covered with plaster-of-Paris, as it is a non-conductor 
of heat. 

The pipes conducting the hot air should be of tin or gal- 
vanized iron, and should be let into the top of hot-air cham- 



HE A TTNa WITH STEA M. 93 

ber OA^er the furnace. The warm conductoi's leading to the 
rooms of the first floor, open into a register in the floor, which 
should be bricked in around, four inches from any wood. 
The conductors to upper stories should be by means of tin 
flues in the walls, and these should open by register into 
rooms just above the base board. The smoke pipe should be 
connected with the hisfhest and largest flue in the house. 

Steam as a means of heating dwellings is comparatively 
new and not very generally used yet outside of large cities. 
In Detroit, and two or three other large cities, there is a 
section of the city, covering an area of nearly one square 
mile, successfully supplied with steam, by a Steam Supply 
Company, from a battery of boilers all located in one build- 
ing, the steam being carried in pipes laid under the pave- 
ment. This method has been tested sufiiciently to 
demonstrate its superiority over all others as a means of 
heating large buildings with many rooms. The ease with 
which steam finds its way through pipes to the remotest 
part of a building, without any sensible loss of heat, gives 
it a great advantage over furnace heating. 

The method is healthful, and with the present precautions 
and use of low pressure boilers, no serious accident can 
attend its use. The radiator pipes or drums for each room 
are made in an endless variety of designs, painted, gilded, 
and varnished ; and while the cost of putting in a boiler and 
pipes is greater, the saving of fuel and safety from fire will 
soon repay the additional expense. 

One hint may be profitably added here, to those who are 
not accustomed to steam; every radiator must have, of 
course, a place for the admission of steam, and this is always 
supplied with a valve to turn off" the steam and turn it on 



94 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

as occasion requires, and every radiator must have a small 
air exhaust, at the opposite side or end fi-om the valve. It 
is sometimes omitted by the workman, but must be put in 
or the register will not work. When the steam is turned on, 
open this air exhaust until the steam drives out all the air, 
and when the steam is turned oflf, open exhaust to let air in. 

Ventilation. 

The importance of pure air in our dwellings cannot be 
overestimated ; inventions without number have been made 
and offered the public, and treatises without end have been 
written, each of which, if we should credit the inventor or 
author, afforded a perfect and the only possible means of 
escape from death by foul air. One after another they have 
been tried, and their adoption has resulted in failure and 
disappointment in too many eases, and yet many seem 
to be looking for some patent self-regulating process or 
device, which, without knowledge, attention, or thought, 
shall ventilate a dwelling. 

The expectation must always meet with disappointment, 
but with our present knowledge, and without waiting for 
any new facts or inventions, we can apply our common 
sense and thereby devise plans to secure air reasonably pure 
in our rooms. 

The principal impurity in the air in our rooms, is 
carbonic acid which is produced in the act of breathing, hence 
it is -being constantly thrown off, and if not removed from 
the room it will soon vitiate all the aii- within. 

In a nearly pure state carbonic acid is heavier than 
air, and where the air is of an even temperature, it will 
occupy the lower part of the room near the floor. Owing 
to the fact, however, that in most cases the air is warmer in 



VENTILATION. 



95 



some parts of the room than in others, it is not at all 
improbable that the carbonic acid clifRises itself throughout 
the room. 

The problem then is to remove this vitiated air, and 
supply its place with pure air, by not subjecting the occu- 
pants to cold draughts. To secure this end, ample means 
of entrance and escape of air must be made. 




Fig. I. 



The best means which can be provided, is the open 'fire 
or grate for escape, as currents setting up the flue will 
change the air very quickly if means of entrance are 
provided by an open transom, a window lowered at the 
top, or other means. 

Our illustration shows an easy, cheap method of ventila- 



9g OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

tion adapted to any building. Fasten a neat piece of wood 
from 3 to 5 inches wide inside the bottom sash, fitting: 
it tightly at ends and bottom, and leave it far enough away 
so that the sash will move up and down with ease, and if 
there is half an inch between, it will only act the better. 

When the lower sash is raised, the air rushes into the 
room between the piece of wood set in and the sash, and 
also at middle between the two sash, as shown by the 
arrows pointing upward. It will be seen that the piece set 
in prevents the air from coming in and striking the 
occupants as a direct draught, as when the air strikes the 
board, it deflects it upward. A weather strip could be 
fastened to the bottom of sash between piece set in, and thus 
admit air only between the two sash at middle of window. 
If it is desired to establish an outward current, the top sash 
may bo lowered, when the air will pass out as indicated by 
the four arrows. 

The " revolving ventilator " which is sold at the hard- 
ware stores, is recommended by many. It is inserted in a 
circular hole cut in the glass near top of window. 

Plenty of air should be admitted into the bed-room, — no 
danger of " colds " when abundance of pure air and clean 
bed-covers are at hand. Children's rooms should especially 
be looked after in this respect, as we owe it to them to give 
abundant supplies of nature's own disinfectants, — pure air 
and water. 

'Rooms that have their doors opened and closed frequently, 
as in the living-rooms, need but little attention in ventila- 
tion. In the morning the windows and doors of bed-rooms 
should be thrown open and allowed to remain so for some 
time, to permit the pure air to thoroughly search every 
nook and corner, and drive out impurities. 



CxFIi\F»a-RK Xff, 



SITUATION AND SURROUNDINGS. — SELECTING A HEALTHY 
SITE. — HOW TO SECURE GOOD DRAINAGE. — PURE WA- 
TER. DANGER FROM STAGNANT POOLS. — HOW A HOUSE 

SHOULD FRONT. — SUNSHINE. — ITS VALUE. — SHADE 
TREES. 




o>«c 



THEE, things being equal, high ground is always 
preferable for a building site; but many things 
must be taken into consideration in the location. 
Old water-courses, low, swampy grounds, and 
dense forests should be avoided, as they are 
fruitful sources of disease. It is not pleasant to 
locate near a manufacturing concern, where the 
din of resounding machinery fills the air with 
discordant sounds, and where clouds of smoke 
settle down at the most inopportune moments. 
It is not best in cities to locate where a good 

sewer is not accessible, for in time the difficulty in drainage 

will become very annoying. 

In the country there is not so much difficulty in securing 

a desirable location. The first consideration should be good 

drainage, and the soil and subsoil must be carefully exam- 

7 [97] 



i 
98 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

ined to this end. If the soil is gravelly oi- porous, and 
the subsoil a hard clay, impervious to water, the site is not 
a good one, for the surface water will simply settle down to 
the clay and remain there, making the ground damp and 
unhealthful. This may, however, be remedied to a great 
extent by putting in tile drains, but it is best to find a good 
porous or gravelly subsoil. 

Where a good system of sewerage is maintained, the 
drainage is of no consequence, as it is easy to secure almost 
perfect immunity from damp premises. 

The next consideration is a good and ample supply of 
drinking water, and water for all domestic purposes; this is 
of vital importance. It is far better to be at some expense 
in bringing it from a distant spring or a running stream by 
means of pipes, than to run any risk by the use of contam- 
inated water. Many fine sites, in other respects very 
desirable, are not deemed practical by reason of their loca- 
tion on high ground away from water, but this difficulty 
can usually be overcome if there is water within a reason- 
able distance in a valley below, by means of a Hydraulic 
Ram. 

A well should not be located near any building unless 
there is a perfect system of drainage for carrying off" the 
surface water; neither is it safe to locate a well too near a 
drain, as the incline of the surface or strata of subsoil may 
allow the sewage to filter through into the well and con- 
taminate the water. 

In many parts of the country, where the lower strata is 
gravel, and where the water is only a few feet down, drive 
wells are put in by driving into the earth an iron pipe one 
and a half inches in diameter, upon the end of which is 



DRAINAGE AND EXPOSUBE.' 99 

firmly screwed a sharp, steel-pointed head, the pipe for a 
few inches above the steel-pointed head having small holes 
for the admission of water. Water from this kind of wells 
is usually pure, and no water from the surface can get in 
to contaminate. Any system of drainage depends largely 
upon a good supply of water for its effectiveness, and with- 
out good drainage the best location will soon become 
unhealthy. 

A quick-running stream, if not subject to annoying or 
dangerous overflows, is to be desired as an adjunct to a good 
site, as it can be made the means of carrying oflT accumula- 
tions of filth; but a sluggish stream, or standing water, 
should be avoided, as danger lurks on their banks ; nor are 
pools that are made for ornament to be trusted. 

Lakes, if fed by rivulets or unseen springs at the bottom, 
so that the water will not stagnate, may be most delightful 
and reasonably healthful as adjuncts to building sites. 

Exposure of a House. 

The exposure of a house, or the direction it fronts, and 
the relative location of its principal rooms, has much to do 
with the comfort of its inmates. 

The greatest consideration is the admission of sunshine 
into every room, if possible, sometime during the day. In 
cities and towns where the streets run with the cardinal points 
of the compass, a northwest corner, the house fronting south, 
is the best location, next to which the west side of a street is 
preferable, as the principal rooms may then be located on 
the east and south exposures; and if some room must be 
located so that sunlight cannot enter, let it be the dinning- 
room, for while we want it as pleasant as possible, we live 



100 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

in it less time than any other. The kitchen also may be 
located on the cold side, as may the staircase and hall. 

If the house should stand on the west side of street, on 
an inside lot, the principal rooms should be on the south 
side, if the house is on the east side, the exposure of the 
principal rooms should be on the south and west, and for 
sunshine this is really a better location than the foregoing, 
but it has the disadvantage of being exposed to the intense 
heat of the afternoon sun, which can in a measure be over- 
come by shade-trees placed not too close to the house. 

If the house is built on the north side of the street, the 
house fronts south of course, and the principal rooms should 
open to the east, allowing the morning sun to pour its full 
rays into the rooms, just at the time of day when sunshine 
is enjoyable; and as the day passes the sun will sweep 
around and give the whole front and west side a bath, leav- 
ing the east rooms cool and shady in the afternoon. There 
are some disadvantages in locating a residence on the south 
side of a street, for the winds of winter have full play upon 
the parts where the principal rooms must be located ; and 
yet this can be overcome by the use of double windows, and 
by building a vestibule entrance, or a storm door. While 
such houses may possibly be colder in winter they are more 
pleasant in summer. 

All houses should have verandas on the sides exposed to 
the sun, if possible, and sleeping rooms so exposed, may be 
rendered cooler by keeping out the hot rays by means of 
awnings. 

In the country, no obstacles are usually in the way to 
securing the best possible location for sunlight. 

The best frontings are either south or east, and if the 



LOCATING AND BEAUTIFYING. 



101 



house should be set in some other way than with the 
cardinal points, there is no law by which the owner can be 
compelled to turn it around. 

The rooms must be so located as to secure the sunlio-ht 
to the best advantage, the style of the building and location 
of trees having, of course, much to do in determining what 
is best to do. 

There is nothing, perhaps, that enhances the beauty of 
houses more than trees and shrubbery when there is room 
for them. Trees should not stand too near houses, nor 
should their branches ever overhang, as they not only 
damage the work and mar the beauty of outline, but they 
also cause a dampness to settle around and into the house, 
rendering it unhealthful. We think much of shade-trees, 
but would keep them at a respectful distance from the 
house; near enough to break the force of winter's winds, 
and .slie'.tL'r from summer's sun. 




CxFii^^a^nK XIII. 



THE PRIMITIVE HOUSE. — OUR NOBLE ANCESTORS. — MODERN 
RESIDENCES. — HOW TO BUILD A HOUSE AND MAKE AD- 
DITIONS TO IT. — A SIMPLE COTTAGE. 



o»io 



IANY of our readers are no doubt familiar with 
the old-fashioned house built by our forefathers 
— the log cabin. Our engraver has succeeded 
very well in producing a good illustration, one 
with its primitive surroundings. Who shall say 
that its walls of rough logs, and its roof made of 
rough puncheons held in place by poles, did not 
shelter the best blood of our nation? And who 
shall fail to revere the memory of those who 
toiled in and reclaimed the wilderness from its 
wildness, endured privations, poverty, and mis- 
fortune, triumphed over obstacles almost insurmountable, 
and made it possible for us to possess Our Homes and Their 
Adornments ? 

No architect had they to plan parlor, library, and 
conservatory, no mills had they to cut, plane, match, and 
fashion the lumber; but with ax and rude saw they hewed 
from the tree each piece, patiently but perseveringly until 

[102] 




OUR ANCE8T0ES. 



103 



the house was finished, — not in soft wood or hard wood, not 
in molded base or graceful architrave, but finished for such 
comforts as they needed. 

And the Mothers — all glory to their memory! — their 
fingers were busy in interior decoration — not in making 
applique work, not in painting plaques and panels, but in 
providing such comforts as could be obtained. They took 



^^^SV^ 




Fig. 



2. 



as much pleasure and exhibited as much pride in their 
graceful festoons of red-pepper pods and dried pumpkins, as 
does the modern woman in her richly ornamented portiere 
or lambrequin. 

Comfort never waited to be invited into such a house; 
she entered and took up her abode there. Little use for 
ventilating apparatus — the high piled open fire-place, roar- 



104 OUR HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

ing and crackling, asserted its ability to assume all care of 
the frequent change of air in the room, and as for inlets for 
air, there were plenty of them. 

The plans and specifications of such a house would 
probably call for " solid walls of native timber carefully 
oi'ooved and fitted at each corner so that no crack between 
timbers should exceed six inches; the walls at the ends 
carried up so as to give the roof the proper pitch ; the rafters 
to be of poles, laid from end to end ; the roof to be of slabs, 
lapped and the joints broken; the whole to be held in place 
by good solid poles, well ' scotched ' and tied down at the 
ends; the floor to be made of well-smoothed slabs, laid close 
and in a workman-like manner; the walls to be plastered 
with good, tough red clay, carefully put on with the hands ; 
the whole building to be completed and ready for occupancy 
before the approach of cold weather." 

Each man was his own architect, contractor, builder, and 
finisher; yet the old log-house did not long content its 
occupants, for after the " clearin' " was made and the fields 
well under cultivation, the heived log-house was built, and 
perhaps after a few years a double hewed log-house was put 
up, with well-fitted logs, and cracks filled, not with red clay, 
but pure white lime, burned from stone taken from the 
quarry on the premises. 

Thus the desire for better houses, and the ability to 
possess them has grown, till by genius, industiy, and 
frugality, any family may possess their own home and 
adorn it in a manner suited to their taste and means. To 
all such, the several departments of this work are worth 
perusal. 



PRAIBIE HOUSE. 105 

DESIGN I.— A PRAIRIE HOUSE. 

In the accompanying engravings we have, perhaps, 
given a plan that may seem advisable for some of our 
prairie readers to follow. 

There is hardly any one settling on the prairies who could 
not produce lumber sufficient to build a small "shanty," but 
is deterred from doing so, for, he says, " I will be able in a 
few years " — remember., the corn-growing and pork-pro- 
ducing farmer of the West accumulates fast when once 
started — " to build me a good, respectable house, and I l^ate 




Fig- 3- 

to waste material upon something that will be nearly 
useless then." It is to help this class of builders that our 
designs are intended. 

Fig. 3 represents a simple cottage of only one room, 
which can be erected at a very trifling expense, even on the 
prairies where lumber is high and scarce, and must be 
hauled a long distance. It is 12x14 feet, and 7 feet 
between joists, it will take material as follows: 800 feet of 



106 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



inch boards @ $30 per thousand, $24; 4 sills, 6x9, and 4 
beams, 6x6, 10 rafters, and 12 joists, $6; 2 panel doors 
@$2.50 each, and 3 windows @ $1.50 each, $9.50; nails 
and paper for roofing, $10. Total, $49.50. 

Here is a cost of about fifty dollars; and any man of 
ordinary ingenuity can do all the work himself, with the 
aid of a carpenter to case the windows, and case and hang 
the doors. Let him first frame the sills and lay them upon 
the foundation in proper position ; next frame the beams and 




Fig. 4. 



lay them upon the sills; then securely nail two boards 
perpendicularly at each corner of the sills., 

Use sixteen-foot boards, cut in the middle; this will 
make the building seven feet in the clear. Now cut four 
stanchions seven feet long; and with the aid of one person 
you can raise the beams one end at a time, slip under the 
stanchions, and nail the tops of the boards that had been 
previously nailed to the sills, securely to the beams, and you 



ADDITION TO PBAIRIE HOUSE. 



107 



are ready to proceed with the planking, which any one can 
do who can saw off a board and drive a nail. 

For roofing, use saturated tar paper, which is manu- 
factured expressly for it, and is for sale in all Western towns. 
The cost is about one-fourth that of shingles ; it is not as 
good, but will last several years, when you can lay your 
shingles right over it. 

If you build in the spring or early summer, you can 
omit the clapboards until the fall; but don't omit the 
veranda. 




We are like an architectural gentleman who once went 
into ecstacies over blinds. We have nothing rebutting to 
show; it is a blind subject; but we think the crowning glory 
of any house, large or small, is a veranda, or as the girl called 
it, "our folks's stoop." So much for Fig. 3. 

Now we will suppose our humble farmer, at the end of 
one or two years, has acquired means to enlarge his humble 



108 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



domicile. This he can do, as shown in plan, Fig. 5, which 
consists of his first erection with a lean-to of one bed-room, 
a pantry, and a wood-shed. This can be erected upon the 
same principle as the first. The reason we recommended 
planking and clapboards in preference to studs and clap- 
boarding, is that any one can build with planks ; but it will 
require a professional carpenter to build a studded house. 

Fig. 5 will make a vei-y convenient house for a small 
family. The inside can be finished with paper or plaster, to 




suit the taste of the occupants. Again we will suppose that 
"the lapse of years has brought round the time " when our 
friend wishes to again enlarge his house. 

If he has followed our former plans, he will do so, as 
shown in Figs. 6 and 7. This consists of an upright part 
added to his former erections. He now, of coui'se, has 
means sufficient at his command, and will call in the aid of 
a practical architect. He can build this last part two stories 
high if he wishes, but we would advise a low house in a 



ADDITION TO PBAIBIE HOUSE. 



109 



prairie country. We think this will make a very convenient 
house, not devoid of beauty. 

Plan, Fig. 3, is a room 12x14; V, veranda. 



(fQ 




Plan, Fig. 5, K, living room, 12x14; B, bed-room, 8x9; 
P, pantry, 8x8; W, S, wood-shed; V, veranda. 



110 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



Plan, Fig. 6, L, living-room, 12x13; K, kitchen, 12 
xl4; D, dining-room, 9ixl2; B, B, B, bed-rooms, 9x8, and 
8x8; S, P, summer pantry, 8x8; P, pantry, 8x8; W, 
wood-shed; V, V, veranda. 

The summer pantry can be used in winter for a place to 
keep meat, and as a store-room. Being away from the 
kitchen fire, it will keep meat fresh a long time in suitable 
weather. 

The cost of the last design (the third addition) will not 
exceed $1,500, and could probably be built for less if one 
would do as much of the work as possible himself. 




(!1maf»^^rr XIV. 



AN ATTRACTIVE COTTAGE HOME FOR PEOPLE WITH SMALL 
MEANS. — HOW CONSTRUCTED. — THE COST. — HOW TO 
PAINT IT. 

^ DESIGN II. ^ 

]E give in Figs. 8 and 9 illustrations of the 
arrangement of the rooms on first floor, and 
perspective view of front and principal side <jf 
an attractive little cottage, neat and well pro- 
portioned, simple in design, and easy of con- 
struction, there being but little ornamental woi'k 
used, as shown in the elevation. A course of 
sawed panels across the front, set in squai-e 
frame- work, and the projection of the second 
story over bay, with its two large brackets on 
either side, give a fine outline to the front, with 
the relief of cut slat patterns under projection and over the 
windows in front gable; and this, together with the simple 
cut figures in the entrance porch, is all the real ornamental 
work on the house- The fact is that the exterior effect 
in the cottage depends more upon the outlines of corners, 
projections, and angles of roof, than upon anything else, and 
is an example of what can be done without much ornamen- 

[111] 




112 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS^ 



tation and still claim merit from its attractiveness. The 
roof should be shingled and painted a dark red, while the 
body of the house should be painted an olive green, and the 
trimmings, that is, cornices, corners, porch and bay-window, 
a dark chocolate, with corners, or chamfers, where there arf 




anv, in vermilion. The effect, if the house is standi no- 
alone, with trees and shrubbery around, will be pleasing. 
So much for the exterior. 

Fig. 8 shows how the rooms are placed on first floor, 
the porch opening into a lobby and from this either into 



DESIGN OF COTTAGE. 



113 



living-room or kitchen. We would suggest that it would 
1)6 a good plan to have a small room in the rear for cooking 
in summer, which could be added at small expense. 




Fig. 9 



The small room marked " coal " could, if thought advis- 
able, be opened into the kitchen and used for a store-room. 
A pantry of ample size will be found convenient, having 
shelves on three sides, and also a good closet off from living- 



114 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

room, and one under stairs, unless there is a cellar under the 
house, in which case the stairs to the same would have to be 
placed under the staircase leading to the second floor. 

On the second floor there are two good sleeping-rooms, 
there being a small hall at head of stairs extending along 
side of stair- way to front room, and doors opening into this 
and the rear bed-room immediately back of it. Two closets 
are between the rooms, one for each. The rear chamber is 
lighted with two windows, coming up into the roof, one on 
the side and the other in the rear. 

This completes the number of rooms, and we hav^e four 
good-sized rooms and plenty of closets. This we think an 
excellent plan for a small family of little means, who are 
desirous, if they cannot have so large a house, to have one 
that possesses some degree of taste and refinement at least; 
and there is no reason why the cottage homes of our people 
should not be made more attractive when it can be done by 
so little well-directed skill in planning and executing; for 
many times the cottage, with its simple adornment, is the 
abode of more genuine happiness than ever passed the thresh- 
olds of some who live in palatial homes, and are surrounded 
with all tlie luxury that money M^ill buy. 

This design would make a very good summer cottage, 
if desired, in which case it would not necessarily need to be 
plastered. At pi-osent prices, this house can be built here, 
all complete, for six hundred dollars. 



A NEAT, SYMMETRICAL STORY-AXD-A-HALF HOUSE AT MOD- 
ERATE COST. — DESCRIPTION OF ITS ARRANGEMENT. — 
ITS ADVANTAGES OVER A ONE-STORY HOUSE. — SOME 
NOVEL FEATURES. 



DESIGN III. 



|E present in Figs. 10 and 11, first and second floor 
plans, with front elevation shown in Fig. 12, of 
a story-and-a-half cottage. Two of these have 
recently been completed for the author, for rent- 
ing purposes, and he considers this design the 
nearest approach to an ideal neat, cosey, tasty 
cottage home that he has ever made, for the 
amount they cost. 

The house consists, as will be seen by refer- 
ring to first-floor plan, Fig. 10, of portico L, 
vestibule K, 5x5 ft., and opening into parlor A, 
12x14 ft., and also to sitting or main Jiving room B, 12x14 
ft., which is connected with the parlor by a slidmg door four 
feet wide. Oft* the sitting-room is a bed- room D, 8x10 ft., 
and a clothing closet G, under the stairs, for the accommoda- 
tion of the same. 

From the sitting-room, door I opens to an easy stair- way 

[115] 




116 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



leading to second floor, and the door in rear opens into the 
kitchen C, 13x14 ft., large enough to use for dining pur- 
poses when desired. In one corner of the kitchen is an iron 
sink with good drip-board at one end and a cupboard under 
the sink. The chimney shown in kitchen is for the use of 
both rooms, between which it is located. The kitchen stove 
can stand well up in the corner and leave plenty of room 
for tables, etc. 




Fig. lo. 



F is a pantry, 4x7 ft., of ample size, with one broad 
shelf, under which is a space inclosed with a door for a 
barrel of flour, and a small door or ^p of shelf opening into 
barrel. Also on the side of this door a tier of three drawers, 
and plenty of open shelves and cleats, all around the three 
sides. Door H opens to a stair-way leading down to a neat 
little cellar, 12x14 ft., the walls of which are made of brick 



STOBY-AND-A-HALF HOUSE. 



117 



laid opon, thereby effectually keeping out dampness and 
frost. The Hoor is concrete<l, and a tile drain connected 
with sewer laid inside of the walls. The door fi-om the 
kitchen in the roar opens out to a platform with steps lead- 
ing down each way, one to the walk around to the front, 
and the other to water-closet J, which is connected directly 
with the sewer. 




Fig. II. 

On the second floor we have, you will observe by refer- 
ring to Fig. 11, ample hall room N, with window. The two 
rooms marked, D, D, are sleeping-i'ooms, 12x14, and from the 
hall is one large closet for both rooms. M is an unfinished 
attic over kitchen, with door from the large closet, and is 
used only for storing trunks or things not frequently wanted. 

The compactness of the house makes it easy of access to 
the different rooms and easy to warm; indeed, one medium- 



118 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS 

size base burner, set in the living-room, will warm the whole 
house, except the kitchen. In the ceiling, immediately over 
the stove, we have a register opening into the room above, 
and one in front room to the chamber over it; these regis- 
ters can be closed during the day, and in the evening by 
opening them and running the fire a little more brLskly, the 
sleeping-rooms can easily be made warm enough. 

The objection is sometimes made that the sleeping-rooms 
in a story-and-a-half house are too warm in summer; such, 
however, is not the case if the windows in these rooms are 
arranged in the manner shown in Fig. 11, or in a similar 
manner, with not less than two in a room and always on 
two sides. If one window can face the south or west, so 
much the better, as a good ventilation can be had at all 
times. 

The side walls are sixteen feet and six inches high from top 
of sill to top of plate ; the first story is nine feet and six inches 
between the floor joists, leaving the outside wall of second 
floor six feet and four inches from floor to whei'e the ano^le 
of roof rests on the plates, and in the center the rooms are 
nine feet high. The rear or kitchen part is twelve-foot 
studding, thus leaving ample room in the attic for storing 
purposes. We think the exterior presents nice and graceful 
proportions. 

The design depends for effect as much on the outline 
and painting as upon anything else. Across the front and 
sides is a water-table; and fi-om this up to the window-sills, 
the wall is sheathed with matched sheathing, and the sill 
course extended around over this and cut into panels with 
cross-bars in the manner shown in the elevation. The 
window-casingfs connect with a band or belt course at the 



STOBY-AND-A-HALF HOUSE. 



119 



caps, while the double window in the second story is con- 
nected on each side with the caps of the two windows below, 
by a piece cut in a symmetrical form; and in between these 
the panel is covered with shingles cut in a neat pattern. 




Fig 12. 



120 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

The gable is divided by a band and shingled in the same 
manner, as is also the end of veranda. 

On the top of the roof, over each gable, is placed a 
neat finial of wood, and the gables are finished with a 
verge-board of unique design, placed immediately back of 
the facia. This gives a very pleasing appearance. The 
front door has glass in top panel to light the vestibule. 
Steps with rail and posts on each side lead up to the 
veranda. 

We have painted the house in the following manner: 
The body, or parts of the house clapboarded, and the panels 
under sill course, are an olive-green ; all trimmmgs, 
including cornices, window-frames, bands, veranda, and 
cross-pieces in panels, are a dark chocolate ; the cut shingles 
in gable and veranda are a bright red; while all the trim- 
mings of chocolate color have chamfers cut in with 
vermilion, the sash also . being vermilion. The effect and 
harmony of these colors are very pleasing. 

We wish to say a few words, comparing this six-room, 
story-and-a-half house, costing, in Detroit, thirteen hundred 
dollars, with a one-story cottage containing the same 
number of rooms, all on the first floor, and costing the same 
amount. 

In the first place, the cottage must necessarily cover 
more oToun<l in order to obtain the same amount of room, 
and this must be in width as well as length; hence the 
advantage in building on nari-ow lots; we have much 
more gi'ound left for a lawn at tlie side, and also for a yard 
in the rear, as well as more light and air, which are of con- 
sideration. 

In the second place, the height of the walls of a one- 



8T0BY-ANB-A-HALF HOUSE. 121 

story cottage must be twelve feet, only four feet less than 
the other ; the amount of roof must be as much more as 
would be required to cover the amount of two sleeping- 
rooms on first floor, (and these rooms cannot be as large as 
those in the story-and-a-half house), usually with one win- 
dow in a room, or if there are two, they must be on the 
same side. The result will be small sleeping-rooms that can 
never be ventilated as well as a room on the second floor, 
with windows on two sides. 

And again, do what 3^ou may in the way of embelish- 
ment outside, you can never produce on the one-story build- 
ing that symmetry of outline and beauty of proportion so 
easily obtained in the other; therefore we think that these 
considerations are decidedly in favor of the story-and-a-half 
house, and worthy of the cai'eful attention of any one 
interested in this class of houses. 



DESIGN IV.— STORY-AND-A-HALF HOUSE. 

We follow here with another design of a story-and-a- 
half house, the first floor plan being seen in Fig. 13, and a 
fine perspective of the front and one side in Fig. 14, show- 
ing the house and lawn as they actually appear when com- 
pleted. This building is not so high as the one last 
described, the posts being 14 feet, making the rooms on first 
floor nine feet, and on the second, four feet and six inches 
at the side, and eight feet six inches in the center of the 
room. For the diflerence in cost we would not recommend 
a house with rooms so low. The outside, while decidedly 
plain, possesses something that commands attention. 



122 



QUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



The broad, sheltering cornice gives to it the appearance 
of ample protection from sun and storm; the hooded 
windows in front and inviting porticoes with climbing vines 
lend to it a charm which must impress one that the inmates 
of a home like this should enjoy their share of worldly bless- 




Fig- 13- 



ings, such as belong only to those who have worked hard and 
perhaps long to come into possession of such a place. 

The outside walls are covered with clapboards, and the 
roofs, including hood and porticoes, are all shingled. 



ARRANGEMENT OF ROOMS. 



123 



The first floor plan, Fig. 13, shows; 1 and 5, porticoes, 1 
opening into front staircase hall, and 5 into parlor 3, which 
is 15 ft. square; this is connected with hall 2, 9x1 4 ft, with 
a neat staircase to second floor and closet underneath. 




Fig. 14. 



From the parlor is a room for library 4, 11x14 ft., with 
door to sitting-room 6, 1-5x16 ft., with double window in 
the rear, also door to hall and to kitchen 7, 9x16 ft., and 
back of this, pantry 8, 5x9 ft. 

On the second floor there are three good rooms, one over 



124 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



parlor and one over sitting-room, with a hall running cross- 
wise of the building, fi-om where the stairs land to the room 
over the library. These rooms are all lighted from windows 
in the gables, and each room is supplied with a commodious 
closet. 

At the present price of all kinds of material and labor, 
this building can be erected for about $900.00, 




Gfiap^i^r X^f. 



STORY- AND- A-HALF HOUSES CONTINUED. — A HOUSE THAT 
WILL ADMIT SUNLIGHT TO EVERY ROOM. — APPEARANCE 
MADE SUBORDINATE TO ARRANGEMENT OF ROOMS. — AN 
EXCELLENT FLOOR PLAN. 



^ DESIGN V. ^ 

E give in Fig. 15 first-floor plan, and in Fig. 16 
perspective view of a fine and commodious story- 
and-a-half house well adapted for a country or 
suburban residence. It is well adapted for a 
corner lot, but if it is of good width, an inside 
lot will do. 

By referring to first floor plan, Fig. 15, it will 
be seen that this house contains much more room 
and on a scale more elaboi-ate than anything yet 
shown in the preceding story-and-a-half houses, 
and of course costs more. 
A is the fine, large veranda, and from this the front or 
principal entrance opens to main hall B and spacious stair- 
case, with window on the landing, of stained glass in rich, 
harmonious colors, admitting a beautiful, subdued light into 
the hall below. 

C is the parlor, 13x17 ft., with a broad bay-window on 

[13.5] 




126 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



the front, adding much to the dimensions and appearance of 
the room as well as to the external effect. Opposite this is 
an open grate, facing the window, whose cheering flame can 
be seen from the street by the passers-by, if the blinds are 
open. Who is there, that may chance to be out on the street 
on a cold winter night, who does not admire the view of the 
light of the open fire flickering through the window, 
suggesting warmth and comfort to those within? 




A 





















Fig. 15- 



E is the library of ample size, with a square bay-window 
on the front and a window out to veranda; it also has a 
grate and mantel with a closet in one corner of the room on 
the side of the grate. 

D is the sitting or main living room. It is large, and 
connects with hall and parlor, with door out on the veranda 
L. It also has a grate near one corner. From this room 



i;, ,,;#, 




AN EXCELLENT FLOOR PLAN. 127 

a narrow hall-way leads to dining-room F, with doors on 
each side of hall- way, one opening into a large china closet, 
and the other to bath-room containing bath-tub and wash- 
basin. 

The dining-room is very pleasant, as windows and sash 
doors open out on each side to verandas, and admit plenty 
of light and air. 

H is the kitchen with a stair- way F to attic, and cellar 
under, and a window and sash door to veranda. On the 
opposite side, adjoining the kitchen is a large pantry I, 
fitted up with plenty of shelves, cupboards, and drawers ; a 
door from this leads to veranda where there is a pump O to 
cistern, and other conveniences. A sink is located in the 
pantry, it being large enough to admit of it. 

On the second floor we have three fine, large chambers, 
all opening from the hall, and each supplied with a commodi- 
ous closet. Over the dining-room part is located a servants' 
room and a store-room. 

The outside, although quite plain so far as decorative 
effect goes, presents a very neat appearance ; and with so 
many broad verandas on each side of the house, it suggests 
comfort outside in the summer time. 

A fine roof of slate, cut to a nice pattern, and laid in 
two colors and with the ridge surmounted by terra cotta 
chimneys, adds in a lai'ge measure to the pleasing appear- 
ance presented by the design. 

Completed, the house would cost, $1600.00. 



ClFlAFa:^ElR XVH. 



Jt BUBAL COTTAGE HOME. — A PLAN THAT COMBINES CON- 
VENIENCE AND BEAUTY. — SIMPLE ADOKNMENTS THAT 
ADD TO COMFOBT. — PEESPECTIVE VIEW OF A PICTUB- 
ESQUE GOTHIC HOUSE. 



DESIGN YI. 



N the plan, Fig. 17, and the perspective, Fig. 18, 
we present what may be appropriately termed a 
BUBAL COTTAGE HOME. The first floor, Fig. 17, 
shows a very complete arrangement of rooms, 
consisting of large parlor, hall in the center 
of house, the dining-room being of the same size 
as the parlor, with the front end beveled, giving 
it the appearance of a bay-window. A double 
window is in this end, and china closet on t)ne 
side, with a private pantry on the othei". A 
door from one corner of this room opens into the 
rear hall, which is cut off from the front hall by door C, with 
a small closet in the back end and a cellar door and stairs 
under main stair-way. The kitchen is of good size, with a 
back entry, pantry, and store-room off from side. 

In the rear of the parlor is a child's room and a fair- 
sized bed-room. On the front, off from the main hall, is the 
[128] 





00 



DESIGX FOB BUBAL COTTAGE. 



129 



study or sitting-room, with two closets on each side of a 
mantel, and grate in the center, there being one on the 
opposite side from this in the dining-room, both using the 
same chimney. 

The door A should be glazed, as it comes opposite to the 
window in the bed-room, and will serve to light the hall. 
The second-floor plan contains five bed-rooms all accessible 




L^ARI 



ARBOU.<i.»>-« 



Fig. 17. 



from a central hall- way at the head of the stair landing, and 
all being accommodated with closets. 

The main posts being 16 ft. long, the first story should 
be 9 ft. and 8 in. between timbers ; and the second story 6 ft. 

9 



130 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

4 in. on the sides, and 9 ft. through the center. The outside 
walls are intended to be boarded vertically with ten-inch 
boards with molded battens over the joints. 

We think the exterior of this cottage admirable; the 
rustic veranda and trellises over the doors and windows are 
intended for vines, not merely as supports for them, but to 
give thereby an air of rural refinement and poetry to the 
house. 

Cedar poles are the best for trellises, but other accessible 
woods may be used, and the bark should be left on. The 
embellishment with vines may be cheaply and quickly 
secured by any person of taste who knows how to select, 
plant, and train them ; and they should be selected, planted, 
and trained by every person who lives in such a cottage. 
Such garniture is the best external evidence of refine- 
ment and good taste that can be employed; and as an 
educational agency in a family, nothing is more potent nor 
gives greater pleasure. 

This cottage would probably cost near $1500 but a 
cheaper one with the same rooms and conveniences could 
scarcely be devised. 



DESIGN VII. 



In our illustration, Fig. 19, we give a perspective view 
of a picturesque and most admirable exterior of a modern 
gothic-roofed story-and-a-half house. This is particularly 
adapted for a country house or suburban residence with 
plenty of room around it, and should be set on an elevation, 
the ground sloping away in all directions, with plenty of 



21 

op' 



iO 




A PICTURESQUE GOTHIC HOUSE. 



131 



surrounding shrubbery. The chppecl or hooded gables, 
trimmed with neat tracery and broad projections of roof 
a,nd cornices, with wide veranda and canopy tops over the 
windows, all do much toward making up the general form 
and graceful outline of the house. 

The first floor contains four large rooms; viz, parlor, 
sitting-room, dining-room, kitchen with pantry, and bath- 
room, besides a fine hall and easy staircase. On the second 
floor are four good bed-rooms and a closet to each, with a 
hall opening into all rooms. 

The sides of house are clapboarded in the usual manner 
and the roof shingled. The house should be painted on the 
outside in two modern colors of lioht drab or stone color for 
body, and darker trimmings. Such a house, furnished in 
first-class style, would probably not exceed $1700 in cash. 




Chlaf^tkr X^IIl. 



MORE DURABLE MATERIAL. — A SOLID GOTHIC HOUSE. — STYLE, 
NOT NEW BUT POPULAR. — DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANS. 
— COST OF ERECTION. — DESIGN IX. — EXTENSIVE FARM 
RESIDENCE AND BARN. 



^ DESIGN VIII. ^ 

E now pass to a house composed of material more 
durable and costly. Figs. 20, 21, and 22 pre- 
sent a design of a building intended for a farm- 
house, tp be built of stone. The leading ideas in 
the arrangement of the rooms were compactness 
and convenience, something less pretentious but 
fully as cosy, if the main stair-way is made to 
take a subordinate position from the usual place 
assigned it near the front entrance. A is the 
porch in the base of the tower, with front en- 
trance opening directly into the main living- 
room C, 15x15 ft. The parlor B is the same size as the 
living-room, with which it is connected by a door, which 
might be a sliding door if desired. D is the library, or ow- 
ing to its location away from other rooms, could be used 
for a sick-room when occasion might require it. This room 
is 9x11 ft., a good closet for its accommodation being made 

(132) 




A SOLID GOTHIC HOUSE. 



133 



under the staircase. The kitchen E is llxl2?> ft. ; bed-room 
F, 7|xlO ft., with closet J, off from it; pantry G, 8x10 ft. ; 
hall H; wood-shed I, 15x15 ft. ; closets J, J, and veranda V. 
On the second floor are commodious sleeping-rooms, N, O, 
L, and F, all of which are well-lighted and have good closets 
J, J, J, J. A hall-way, H, H, runs from in the^tower to main 
and rear staircases, and the room M is for a servant's room , 




pier. 20. 



K is the balcony on tower, and a narrow stair- way, with 
rail, leads from main hall up to the tower observatory. 

The general form of the outer walls is such as admits of 
a picturesque outline in the elevation, and in the treatment 
of the exterior finish the expenditure has been spread out in 
simple embellishments over the whole structure rather than 
concentrated upon an elaborate cornice. 



134 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



This design, we are well aware, is not altogether new, 
neither did we intend it should be; it is simply a study of 
the old gothic forms of architecture, whose pleasing outlines 
can never become old to the lover of the beautiful. This 
house, if built of stone as designed, will <liot only impress 
the beholder with a sense of quiet repose and harmony, but 




it will have the effect of strength and solidity combined with 
its outward appearance. 

This building might be erected of brick or wood, in which 
case the plan of windows and doors might vary slightly 
from that shown in the illustration. We should, however, 
recommend the use of stone, when the cost of the building- 
complete would be near $5000.00. 



AN EXTENSIVE FARM RESIDENCE. 135 

DESIGN IX, 

We present in Fig. 23 first-floor plan, and in Fig. 24 
perspective view, of an extensive farm residence and barn, 
that we think are very complete in their appointments 
throughout. 

Scattered far and wide over the land, we now find a 
great many elegant and comfortable homes among the farm- 
ers, the majority of whom, not many years ago, commenced 
life with very little of this world's goods. Some, settling 
down in the dense forests, and others on the broad prairies, 
have by their own indomitable perseverance and energy 
and the strength of their arm, swept away the forests, and 
turned into flowering fields the desolate wilds of the prairies, 
where tall grasses were shaken by the morning winds, or 
trodden beneath the feet of the wild beast. 

The fertile soil produces such abundance that it has been 
said that America could feed the nations of the world if 
necessity should ever require it. We all know full well the 
mighty power that lies in the tillers of the soil; and it is 
with pleasure that we note their enterprise in erecting beau- 
tiful homes and comfortable farm buildings where they can 
enjoy the fruits of their labor. 

The following is the description of the plan of rooms and 
out- buildings, accompanying the elevation: On first floor, 
1, 1, porches; 2, 2, vestibules; 3, hall, 8 ft. 4 in. wide; 4, 
sitting-room, 15x15 ft. ; 5, parlor, 15x15 ft. ; 6, library, 9x15 
ft.; 7, dining-room, 15x18 ft.; 8, kitchen, 13x24 ft., includ- 
ing stair-way to cellar, a milk-room being underneath 
kitchen in basement; 9, pantry, 6x12 ft. ; 10, wash-room or 
laundry, with arch, kettle, back staircase, etc. ; 11, 11, water- 
closets; 12, open shed, 29x24 ft. 



AN EXTENSIVE FARM llESIDENCE. 187 

Oil the second floor is a balcony over each of the porches, 
a hall extending through the middle of house over tlie one 
below, six large sleeping apartments, ample closet ac- 
commodation to each, linen closet, and bath-room opening 
off from the hall, and in the rear part, two servants' rooms 
of good size. 

Plan for barn: Cattle stable and root cellar in the base- 
ment; A, A, floors, 13 ft., with scaffolding overhead; B, 
threshmg floor, 26x38 ft. ; C, grain bag, 32x38 ft. ; D, D, 
hay mows, 26x48 and 36x42 ft. ; E, granary, 15x24 ft. , F, 
room for large tools, 16x24 ft. ; G, G, passages from one barn 
floor to the other, 6 ft. wide and 7 ft. high; H, tool room, 
12x24 ft.; J, feed room, 11.1x12 ft.; K, harness room, 
12x14 ft.; L, horse stalls, 5 ft. wide; M, M, box stalls, 
12x12 ft.; N, hog-pens, with run-way under the floors to 
manure pit in the basement under horse stalls; O, cook- 
room with arch, kettle, etc., 28x39 ft., including the hog- 
pens; P, hennery, 13x23 ft. ; R, chute for straw to bay in 
basement ; S, S, hay chutes ; V, V, ventilation. Such is the 
arrangement for the barn and its accessories. 

It is not only most gratifying to have good buildings and 
things made convenient for the care and protection of the 
live stock, farm implements, and produce of the farm, but 
it pays to have these things well cared for. Regarding the 
cost of such a series of buildings, it is not easy to make an 
estimate, from the fact that much that is needed on one 
farm can be dispensed with on another of less size. 



dxMj^F^a^mR XIX. 



AN ELEGANT BRICK RESIDENCE. — COMFORT AND BEAUTY 
COMBINED. — DESCRIPTION OF PLAN, MATERIALS, AND 
CONSTRUCTION. — DESIGN XI. — A MODERN VILLA. 



^ DESIGN X. ^ 

UK, i] lustrations, Figs. 25 and 26 are the first 
floor and perspective of an elegant brick resi- 
dence, designed by the author and erected in 
Detroit at a cost of five thousand dollars. It 
illustrates in a striking manner the advantages 
of brick over stone as a material for building, 
for by its use any desirable rectangular form 
can be secured without the expense of cutting 
and fittinof, as is the case in stone work. 

This building makes a very imposing and 

picturesque appearance, and the arrangement of 

the rooms is such as to secure the admission of sunlight and 

to afford an excellent view of the street from the principal 

rooms. 

The foundations, laid of stone, are 18 inches thick, with a 
cellar 7 feet in the clear, extending under the entire house. 
The laundry, which is situated in the cellar under the 
kitchen, is supplied with three laundry tubs, hot and cold 

I '38] 




^.Y ELEGANT BRICK RESIDENCE. 139 

water, and a water-closet; and under room E of first floor 
is the vegetable room, opening from the laundry. The re- 
mainder of the cellar is occupied by the heating furnace, 
fuel, and store-rooms, the furnace being bricked in and hav- 
ing hot-air pipes extending to the three main rooms and hall 
on first floor, and to the chambers and bath-room on second 
floor. Under and around the house is laid a complete sys- 
tem of drainage-pipes, and the floor of cellar is laid with 
concrete. 

The plan of the first floor is shown in Fig. 25 : A is the 
portico, extending around the curved platform and connect- 
ing with the veranda O, making a fine double entrance by 
one flight of steps. Black- walnut doors of a pleasing design 
open into the hall B, 9x18 ft., from which, at P, ascends 
an elegant landing-stairs finished in butternut and black- 
walnut, the newel post being square and of an unique 
design, with a rail of butternut neatly cut and molded. 

The parlor C, 13?>xl8 ft., is so constructed as to give it 
the appearance, in front, of a bay-window the whole width 
of the room. This is a very pleasant feature, both of the 
parlor and the room above, as it gives, to one standing in 
the front of the room, a view of the street in both directions. 
D is the back parlor, or sitting-room, 18|xl6 ft., opening 
from the rear of which is a toilet-room L, containing wash- 
basin, with hot and cold water, and a closet, and K, a clothes 
or general closet. 

The dining-room E, 12x16 ft., is reached by side en- 
trsbnce, hall, or rear parlor, and the three main rooms and 
hall are easily thrown into one grand reception-room, by 
means of broad, sliding doors that run on tracks overhead, 
thereby leaving nothing in the way of carpets extending 



1-iO OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 




Fig. 25. 



AN ELEGANT BRICK RESIDENCE. 141 

throughout these rooms. Each of these rooms is provided 
with a gi-ate and elegant mantles of slate. 

Connecting with the dining-room is the kitchen H, 
12x16 ft., from which opens a commodious pantry G, stair- 
way I to cellar, rear stair-way J to second floor, outside 
entrance N to basement, and the china-closet M. 

A cut of second floor is not necessary, as it is arranged 
similar to the floor below, excepting that a hall four feet 
wide runs from front to rear, giving direct communication 
to all the chambers; and the bath-room, fitted up with 
copper-lined bath-tub, a wash-stand, and a best Alexander 
water-closet, is located over toilet-room L. Each chamber 
is supplied with a closet, and a large Unen-closet with 
shelves and drawers is placed over rear stairs. 

The front hall on this floor extends from front window 
over portico to the window at head of rear staircase. This 
arrangement secures a free circulation of ah' through the 
hall and rooms when desired. 

The attic, which is reached by a narrow, inclosed stair- 
case over the main stairs, can be finished into three good, 
comfortable rooms. 

The windows are tiimmed with best Ohio buff' sandstone,^ 
and the brick- work is stained and the joints penciled black, 
which arrangement shows to excellent effect. The roof is of 
best Pennsylvania black slate, cut a hexagonal pattern, laid 
over roofing felt, and is one of the attractive features of the 
building. Iron cresting and finials of peculiar design 
ornament the ridges of main part of roof, and the cresting, 
portico, and veranda are of wood. 

By referring to the perspective view, it will be seen tha 
the front gable, forming the angles for the bay-shaped rooms. 



142 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

extends out over the front in the same manner as it would 
if the entire end were square. The projecthig cornice that 
overhangs the angles is supported on two massive brackets, 
springing out from each angle and joining under the cornice. 

The front is filled with neat tracery, which, with the 
supporting brackets, verge-boards, etc., all combine to form 
an imposing front. 

It is not egotistical to say that this building possesses to 
a high degree the requisites of convenience and comfort, 
with no small degree of taste, for the amount of money re- 
quired in its construction. We commend it to all who wish 
a house of like cost and accommodations. 



DESIGN XI. 



Our illustration is a perspective view of a fine suburban 
villa of ample dimensions. The plans and specifications of 
such a residence should be made by none but the best archi- 
tects, and those contemplating such a house will of course 
put its construction into none but the best hands. 



,^®^r>w5«^^p. 




XX. 



HOW TO BUILD A SUMMER COTTAGE. — CHEAP, BUT ATTRACT- 
IVE HOUSES IN THE HOT SEASON. — HOW TO BUILD A 
RUSTIC ARBOR. — A FEW SUGGESTIONS ON BEAUTIFYING 
THE SURROUNDINGS WITH LITTLE EXPENSE. 



o>»ic 



S the warm season approaches, many persons, es- 
pecially those in cities, are anxious to retire to 
some spot where they may escape the heat. 
Many go to the fashionable watering places, 
some to private boarding houses in the country, 
and not a few camp out by some lake or stream. 
Generally such persons are able to bear the 
expense, and have a summer-house on a lot 
owned or controlled by themselves, located near 
some lake, bay, or stream, easy of access to the 
outside w^orld, but far enough away to escape its 
anxieties. To such we offer a few suggestions. 

We will suppose that a summer cottage for a family of 
four is to be constructed. We must have two rooms on the 
first floor, and the same number above for sleeping apart- 
ments. The plan and dimensions wall be as follows: The 
house will be 13x25 ft., making the front room 12x12 ft., 

[143] 




144 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

the back room, 10x12 ft. foi' dining-room, with a staircase 
between, 2?> ft. wiilf, the space under staircase being used 
for a pantry. Tlie same arrangement of rooms on second 
floor will answer. The roof can be extended out four feet 
over the front, and a veranda constructed for fii-st floor, the 
roof of which will serve as a balcony to front sleeping- 
apartment. 

In the rear of liouse, we would construct a cook-room, or 
kitchen, with shelves in corners, 10x10, with a shed roof 
attached to main building. We now have the plan of the 
house, let us consider kind, quality, and cost of materials. 

The structure will require thirteen foundation posts, 7 
in. in diameter and not less than 5 ft. long; set four posts 
on the long sides, one in the center of eaoh end, and three 
for the kitchen, costing not over $2.60. Lumber for the 
building will be required as follows 2 sills, 6yi6 in., 25 ft. 
long; 3 sills, same size, 18 ft. long; 38 studding, 2x4 in., 
14 ft. long; 14 studding, same size, 13 ft. long, for plates; 
22, studding 12 ft. long, for kitchen walls and rafters; 34 
pieces, 10 ft. long, for rafters and gable ends; 22 pieces, 
2x8 in., joists for first floor, same number, 2x6 in., for sec- 
ond floor, all 13 ft. long; 6 pieces, 4x4 in., 9 ft. long, for 
veranda posts; and 7 pieces, 2x8 in., 10 ft. long, for floor 
joists of cook-room. This includes all the frammg lumber 
required in the frame-work, and is not more than two 
thousand feet board measure, which would cost $15.00 per 
thousand, or $30.00 

The covering boards for the outside walls should be of a 
good smooth quality of what is usually termed "barn 
boards," planed on both sides and applied vertically, and 
th.e joints covered Avith two-inch battens; 1300 ft. will be 



4 



PLAN OF SUMMER COTTAGE. 145 

required at a cost of $20.00. 700 ft. of roofing boards, 
planed on one side, sound but not necessarily free from 
knots, will cost $9.00. 5000' shino-les for main roof and 
kitchen, at $4.00 per thousand, $20.00. The flooring, of 
pine or spruce, mateht'd and laid in the ordinary way, 800 
ft., at a cost of $17.00. 

For the main cornice use a simple 12-inch projection on 
rafters, with a verge-board cut in a neat pattern for eaves 
and gables ; the rafters being planed no plancher will be nec- 
essary. The veranda is made by extending columns up to 
the roof with a railing of simple pattern around the upper 
floor or balcony. 

There should be at least two windows in front room, and 
the same number in the rear rooms, all of common, plain 
frames, with two-light sash, 24x36 inches. One door opens 
to each front room, one to veranda and balcony, one between 
two upper rooms, and one to kitchen, no door being neces- 
sary between the two main rooms below. Partitions between 
rooms of main floors ai'e of plain matched material, and the 
staircase a box stairs, forming a pantry underneath. 

The foregoing includes in a general way the principal 
things needed for the cottage, and below are the figures 
giving approximate cost of material and erection: — 

Framing material, $82.00 

Covering boards, 20.00 

Roofing boards, 9.00 

Shingles, 20.00 

Flooring, 17.00 

Battens, 6.00 

Moldings, verge-boards, etc., 15.00 

Windows all complete, 20.00 

10 



146 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Doors all complete, $12.00 

Staircase and extra lumber, 6.00 

Painting — two coats, 20.00 

Labor of putting up the building, 50.00 

Contingent expenses, 10.00 

The whole cost need not exceed $240.00, and in many 
localities it will come within $200.00. 

Hundreds of people can possess such a building for sum- 
mer use, to which they may retire and spend the " heated 
term " in the most pleasant manner. Certainly the expense 
is not so great as to deter people in comfortable circum- 
stances, besides the same amount would be spent in two 
summers, in boarding and other expenses, with far less real 
comfort. 

How TO Construct a Rustic House. 

Where there is anything like spacious grounds around 
a hou.se, that can be used for a lawn, nothing adds more 
to the attractiveness of the out-door scenery than a cosey, 
rustic retreat, covered with climbing vines, whose leafy 
foliage forms a most inviting welcome to whoever may seek 
shelter from the scorching rays of the summer sun, and 
rest upon the rude seats within. A rustic summer-house is 
quite simple to build, and a great variety of forms can easily 
be made if the material can be readily obtained. Cedar is 
tiie bast and can be found in most localities; but spruce 
will do very well where cedar cannot be obtained. If one 
lives in the country, and the material is to be cut in the 
woods, it should be selected, for the most part, from small 
trees or saplings as near of a size as passible. 

But a variety of sizes will be needed in trimming up, »o 
that in cutting we may take some of both larger and 



A RUSTIC SUMMER HOUSE. 147 

smaller sizes. Trim off roughly, that is, cut the small limbs 
not close to the body of the tree. Now, for illustration, we 
will build a small arbor, say 8 ft. wide and 1 2 ft. long. Of 
course, in selecting our material we must know first what 
we are to build, and select certain parts for certain places. 

For the arbor we are considering, we must have six 
posts about 5 in. in diameter, one for each corner, and one 
in the middle of each side. These make our main supports 
for the superstructure. From the top of these carry across 
the eight-foot way stout poles and secure them in place; 
now on the top of the ends of these pieces we will extend 
pieces the reverse of the former and over the posts, thus 
making, as it were, the plates, which should extend over two 
feet at each end, the center pole extending parallel with 
pieces last mentioned, and of the same length; this center 
piece must be raised to the height of two feet above the 
others, and will rest on an upright piece set down upon the 
cross-pieces before mentioned. We now have the outline of 
our structure. The roof should be covered with poles two 
inches apart, extending over the eaves 2 ft. and joining in 
the center of the roof. The plates should be 9 ft. from the 
ground, and parallel with them, down 16 in. below, all 
around, place other sticks, and under the corners place 
braces. Between the pieces parallel with the plate, cut 
in cross-pieces close together, all around, and fill in the 
gables of the roof, pieces cut in any form that the taste may 
suggest. The sides and ends, except a three-foot opening in 
center of each end, must have a rail all around, three feet 
high, cut in between the main posts ; also a piece around in 
the same manner near the ground; then fill in this space 
under the rails in any form that may be .desired, and on 
each of the two sides make a seat of the smaller poles. 



148 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



This completes our description of one simple form of 
making a rustic summer-house. Very little skill is re(juired, 
nor many tools; a saw, hammer, and sharp hatchet are the 
main ones that Avill he required, with plenty of tenpenny 
nails for securing the work. Of course a little good taste in 
ari'anging the foims oi roof and trimming the same, may 
add much to its symmetry. Some of the many kinds 
of climbing vines should be planted and trained to sprea<l 
their foliage over the roof, and we have the arbor complete. 

We have seen a very pretty rustic seat made by setting 
in the ground one large p9st and then from this building out 
like the bows of an umbrella for the roof, with seats all 
around the foot of the post. This makes a rather unique 
but attractive appearance. 

A great variety of rustic seats can be made to j^lace 
around linder trees and in shady woods, that will haraionize 
with the works of nature much better than anything made 
from manufactured material, and which will not cost as 
much. 





Fig. 26. 



(IxmAF»a"RR XXI. 



ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. — OLD HOUSES MADE NEW. — 
CAUTION. IMPROVING ROOFS AND OAP.LES. — REMODEL- 
ING WINDOWS. 




oJO^o 



I HEN any alterations or additions are contem- 
plated, they should receive the most careful 
consideration before th(^ plans are put into ex- 
ecution; indeed, in many cases more study and 
g'(x)d judgment are often re([viired to success- 
fully carry out alterations so that the new work 
will harmonize with the old, than to pUiii a new 
building of equal magnitude. 

It not unfrequently happens that additions 
are made in such a w^ay that they look mis- 
placed, and add nothing to the appearance of 
the building. Nor is this all ; it should be more definitely 
kuown how nnich is to be done, and how much it is to cost, 
than is usually the case. Frequently the matter is simply 
talked over, and a carpenter set to woi'k by the day to tear 
down and build up without any definite regard as to when 
or wliere to stop, one thing after another calling for further 
alteration until the cost may exceed that of a new house. 

(149) 



150 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

This is the experience of many, and should be carefully 
avoided by those whose means are limited, and whose tastes 
are sensitive; for cost what the additions may, there are 
always left reminders of the old house. Our advice, where 
extensive alterations are needed, is to tear down the old 
house, and utilize the material as far as possible in a new 
one. 

The services of an architect cannot be employed to 
better pecuniary advantage to the owner than in giving 
advice and making plans for alterations and additions; in 
fact, his services are almost, if not quite, indispensable in 
such work. 

Additions. 

In chapter XIII of this work will be found some practical 
illustrations of how additions can be made. If the house as 
originally built contemplated additions, little trouble will be 
experienced in the work, especially if the additions are in 
front and conceal the part first erected. The plan then 
would be very much like a new house with fewer rooms. 

Bay-Windows. 

Bay-windows can usually be added to a house with 
good effect and an increase of comfort to the inmates. 

The wall should be cut out the height and breadth de- 
sired, and the bay-window built out from the house. It is 
best to arch over the entrance to bay, as this separates the 
old ceiling from the new and counteracts the efTect of con- 
trast of old and new work. 

If porticoes, verandas, cornice, verge-boards, or brackets 
are to be added, great care must be used to make the out- 



ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 



151 



lines of old and new work blend, as it frequently happens 
that such additions present anything but a harmonious 
appearance. 

It is frequently desired to increase the number of rooms 
by building wings or rear additions ; but unless a new front 
is added, the new must always be kept subordinate to the 
old. 




Fig. 28. 



If additions are to be made to brick buildings, the new 
wall must be joined to the old by cutting a vertical groove 
in the old wall four inches deep, and broad enough to receive 
the brick of the new wall, as when the courses of the new 
wall are locked into the old, brick for brick, there will in- 
variably be settlement enough in the new to break every 
brick at the point of intersection ; hence the reason for con- 
necting by a groove which admits of settling without 
breaking. The joints of courses in new work should be 
laid a little above the old to allow for settling. 



152 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



New Roofs, Gables, etc. 

If roofs need relaying, where the building is good, slate 
roofs may be put on over the old shingles to good advantage, 
using longer nails than usual to secure the slate. 

If the building is old-fashioned, a marked improvement 
can bo made by taking off the roof and giving it groatei- 
pitr-h. niniiino- up th' chhnnoys and giving them a grace- 




Fig. 29. 



fill finish, and putting in a front gable v.'ith neat tracery 
and brackets. This plan can be carried out when a new 
roof becomes necessary, and its effect upon the general 
nppearance of the building will be excellent, and if iron 
cresting is put on, so much the better. 




Fig. 27. 



J. HESS, Architect. 



ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 



153 



Improving Windows. 

The appearance of many good, substantial houses, espe- 
cially in the country, is positively ruined by the low, square, 
unsightly, small-light windows. This can be remedied at a 




Fig. so- 



very light expense by tearing out the frames, cutting out 
from the top to the desired lieight for modern windows, and 
replacing the old many-light sash with new ones holding not 
more than four lights. The same treatment woulil impiove 
many door-ways. 



154 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



The alterations that will be necessary depend largely 
upon the construction and surroundings, and further sug- 
gestions would be superfluous. The author, however, wishes 
to again caution all who would remodel houses against the 
too frequent result in which the same amount expended 
would have secured a good, comfortable, new house. 




Fig. 31. 



In the accompanying cuts are represented two very 
attractive designs of windows ; one has a neat canopy top 
with curved roof and verge-board supported on brackets on 
each side and forming a fine outline; while at the bottom of 
the window is a small balcony projecting out from below 
the sill, with a railing round it, and this too resting on 
brackets. The whole combined makes a pleasing appearance. 



ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 



155 



The other cut, Fig. 32, has no canopy, but instead, a cap 
resting on brackets, while the casings on each side run down 
to the sill, forming a graceful outline. This also has a 
balcony similar to the other. 

The window first described. Fig. 31, could be used with 
good effect in the gables of many wood houses, in the second 
story; the other one is better adapted to a full second story 
where the top must come under a cornice, as it does not 
extend up so far. 




Fig. 32- 



A great variety of forms can be given in the treatment 
of windows; and in fact, aside from the main outline of the 
structure itself, nothing has more to do with the general 
effect of the outside than the treatment of the windows. 

Where verandas come over windows, it is sometimes 
desirable to have swing sash, usually know as French win- 
dows, opening out from the rooms. These are very pleasant 



156 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



in summer, but must bo protected in winter by storm win- 
dows, as tlic swinging of the sash gives greater opportunity- 
for cold to come in. 

Through the winter it is often economy to protect, with 
a double sash, windows that are exposed to the cold winds. 
This sash is made all in one piece, and fits over the outside 
casing, with a strip of narrow felt between this and the 
sash, and secured with long screws, the felt effectually keep- 
ino- out the wind. 




CxFIJ^F^a-RI^ XXff. 



OUTHOUSES. — SOME PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS. — HOW TO 
V 
HAVE ICE ALL THE SUMMER. — AN ICE-HOUSE PRESERV- 

ATORY. — PLAN FOR A CHEAP BUT EXCELLENT FARM 

AND CARRIAGE BARN. 



oj»:o 



T frequently happens that the outhouses of a 
farm, such as the ice-house, hennery, etc., re- 
ceive but little attention. 

Some farmers utterly neglect walks oi- step- 
ping-stones to the barns and other buildings, 
and content themselves to tramp through mud 
and snow, when a few hours' work would build 
a sul)stantial walk from the odds and ends left 
in erecting tlie barn. Such conveniences really 
cost but a tiifle compared with the benefit de- 
rived from them. 

I(JP>H0USE. 

An ice-house properly made will last a long time with 
but little attention; and in the country where ice is not 
supplied, there is no reason why the milk-house, meat pre- 
servatory, and ice-house should n(^t be combined in one, 
especially where a running stream is not near at hand. 

ri-1 




158 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Ice can be preserved in simple, double-walled houses, 
with the space between filled with sawdust, and the ice 
packed in closely and covered well with sawdust. The 



Fig- 33- 

accompanying engraving and description will, however, 
yive a better idea of how to combine the ice-house and 
preservatory. 

The novel feature of this plan is the placing of the pre- 
servatory under the mass of ice, from which it is separated 
by the floor made of plates and galvanized iron. It is thus 



FARM AND CARRIAGE BARN. 159 

already filled with cold air of about the temperature of 34'' 
or 36°. The temperature is communicated to the preserva- 
tory by the ice acting thi-ough the thin floor of iron plates. 
Fresh air may be inti'oduced from the sides when desirable, 
and ventilation is secured in the direction indicated by the 
arrows, between the outer and inner walls. The iron floor 
slopes to the center, where the drainage is completed by a 
pipe. The outer wall is made of stone or brick, next comes 
an air-space eight inches wide, then a wall of boards filled 
in with sawdust. The current of warm air from below passes 
up the air-space, through holes into the chamber above the 
ice, and out at the roof. The rafters are double-boarded 
and sawdust placed between them and a four-inch air-space 
left between them and the roof ; this secures brisk circula- 
tion of air. 

If the ice-house is to be connected with the dwelling, the 
preservatoiy may be entered from the cellar by breaking a 
door-way through the wall ; if apart from the house, unless 
a side hill be available, some steps downward will be 
necessary. 

The ice-house should be wholly above ground, but the 
preservatory partly or entirely under, as shown by the grade 
lines on side of cut. 

Farm and Carriage Baen. 

There are many farmers owning farms of from fifty to 
eighty acres, who often feel the need of a carriage barn, yet 
do not feel able to build one in addition to their other farm 
buildings. To such it is believed this design of a farm and 
carriage bam combined will be acceptable. 

The size of the main barn is 30x60 ft., corner posts 15 



1()0 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



ft. liigh; the linter or back part containing the stables and 
store-room is 15x68 ft., with corner posts 9 ft. high. Tlie 
shed containing the pig-pen and hen-house is 8x32 ft., and 







m 



8 ft. high. The grain and water buckets in the horse stables 
are filled through sliding doors opening from the feed-room. 
The hay-racks should be of hard wood or iron, and filled 



FARM AND CARRIAGE BARN. 



KJl 



from the mow ovei' the cariiage room. The graiiar}- has 
capacity for three hiiu(hctl busliels of grain, and the whole 
barn storage room sufficient fur a fai-ni of sixty acres. 




The following is the descriptive reference to the cut: 
A, threshing and entrance floor, 16x30 ft.; B, carriage and 

11 



162 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



wagon room, 22x24 ft. ; C, mow, 18x22 ft. ; D, horse stables, 
15x22 ft. ; E, feed-room, 7x12 ft. ; F, stairs, with pump (•) 
under them; G, harness closets; H, H, H, hay racks in 
horse stables; I, I, I, I, grain and water buckets; T, store- 
room, 15x21 ft.; K, tool-closet; L, work -bench; M, passage- 
way, 4x30 ft. ; N, granary, 8x22 ft. ; O, cow stables, 15x20 
ft. ; P, P, P, P, mangers ; R, pig-pen ; S, sleeping-room ; F, 
feed-trough; U, hennery; V, feed-box; W, perches for 
hennery. 




«9 ^'^ « 



s^ 



m 



^ ^ 



.J 







<^^i(^ 

rl 




[tw ^m|l$|iift 







♦f' FOR 






[163] 



^HE following chapters are designed to suggest employ- 
ments that will beautify the home, and in many in- 
'if^ stances add to the revenue of the family, and above all 
furnish such attractive work as will keep the boys of 
the family at home, and away from the contaminating influ- 
ences of the streets. 



(!1maftrr I. 



A MANUAL OF FRET SAWING. — PRACTICAL LESSONS WITH 
ILLUSTRATIONS. — FINISHING UP THE WORK. — USE OF 
SAWS. — SAWING METALS. — USEFUL ARTICLES. — SAWS 
AND THEIR PRICES. 




t>>»Jo 



HE amateur is frequently in too great haste to 
"make a bracket," and does not give sufficient 
time for practice ; especially is this the case with 
the younger ones, and for this reason many get 
discouraged. The true way to be successful is 
to follow instructions explicitly. No one should 
atteonpt to do a nice piece of work until he 
can saiu on a line, or circle, or cut an angle with 
ease and precis io7i; for this practice old cigar 
boxes are the cheapest and handiest. 

After you have learned to follow straight and 
curved lines, the next and only difficult point to learn is to 
turn a square or sharp corner, as in Lesson I. 

Hoto to Use the Scroll- Saiu. — Amateurs should first learn 
to operate treadle, so they can run machine and talk at same 
time; even write and run saw. Having accomplished this, 
take a piece of cigar box or other thin board, make straight 

[165] 



166 OUB HOMES AND THElJi ADOBNMENTS. 

and curved lines upon it (do not at first turn round). When 
you have made the marks, place the board close to the saw, 
as near the mark as possible, with your hands on top of the 
board; press down gently — not hard, but always down and 
forward at an even speed, not by fits and starts. Keep the 
hands as near the saw as possible. Always use thin lum- 
ber first, and saw slowly; as you learn to saw you can 
learn to vise machine to fullest capacity. To saw a bracket 
or any other piece of work, always place the pattern on the 
wood so that the grain will run lengthwise of the weaker 
parts. 

Lesson I. — Commence at one end and saw up to a sharp 
point; now, without stopping the motion of the saw, you 
want to swing the piece of wood around, using the saw 
blade as a fulcrum for the center; when you get so you can 




Fig. 79- 

successfully do this you will find it of great value in 
executing work rapidly and nicely. At first you will find 
it a httle difficult, for the reason that you do not turn on the 
actual center of the saw blade ; this is caused by your press- 
ing the wood forward slightly while you are turning it; now 
it should not be pressed in any direction, but if any way it 
should be held back a little, for the reason that it would 
then hit the back of the saw blade, which cannot cut; but 
this will be overcome by practice. 

Lesson II. — This is a different practice, but it will 
require no special instruction. Carefully follow the lines. 



HOW TO MAKE BRACKETS. 



16: 



Do not crowd or hurry your work. In case the saw works 
hard, occasionally apply a little soap or bees- wax to the 
back of the blade. 




Fig. 80. f 

Lesson III. — This is a combination of the line, curve, 
and angle, but differing from previous lessons in this respect: 
In the preceding figures our object was to preserve the outside 




Fig. 81. 

line, in this we preserve the inside. First, drill a small hole at 
a, unscrew the upper saw fastener, and insert the blade 
through the hole. Now proceed to cut out the design as al- 
ready described. 

Having practiced on these lessons until you can saw 
true, either on a line, curve, or angle, you will be ready to 
advance another step in this fascinating art. 

Lesson IV. — Making a Bracket. — Having selected a 
good piece of black- walnut about three-sixteenths of an inch 
thick, apply to it the design. There are several methods for 
doing this. The simplest is to paste the design directly upon 
the wood, using flour paste. After the sawnng is done, the 
paper can be removed by moistening with water, but it is 
much better to be careful in putting the paste on, and only 
put it on the part you throw away. You can also secure the 



168 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

design to the wood with small tacks, driven into the parts 
of the wood to come away. Another good way: Pro- 
cure a sheet of " impression paper," lay the paper on the wood, 
place the design over it; take an instrument with a fine, hard 




Fig. 82. 

point, and trace around the design. On removing the impres- 
sion paper, the design will be seen neatly copied on the wood. 

It is better to cut away inside work first. Drill holes in 
every part which requires cutting away; this done, place the 
wood, with the design upward, on the saw table. The inside 
of the design being complete, remove the outside in the 
same manner. Having finished the various parts of the 
bracket, it is ready for finishing. 

Smoothing off Work. — Take a small, half-round file, and 
file the corners true, and straighten all edges. Take sand-pa- 
per and rub the bracket carefully. Under edges will be found 
ragged, but sand-paper will make them smooth. When a 
number of thicknesses are sawed, this is obviated. 

Putting Work together. — Small brads or screws can be 
used; if the bracket is quite small, glue alone is sufficient. 
In case the bracket is intcudi'tl to carry some weight, use 
screws. 



INLAYING AND OVERLAYING. 169 

Oil. — For oiling, boiled linseed oil should be used. 
Apply to wood, and when it is absorbed, rub over with a 
stiff brush or soft paper. 

Shellac. — Take half- pint bottle of alcohol, fill about one- 
quarter full of bleached shellac in small pieces. After 
standing several hours this will be dissolved and ready for 
use. Apply to the wood with fine sponge or cotton. It 
dries so very quickly that several coats can be applied in a 
few moments. 

Varnish is frequently used, but it does not give the wood 
as pretty an appearance as oil or shellac. If used, it must be 
applied lightly and evenly. There are several kinds, vary- 
ing in color which must be used according to the color of the 
wood. 

Polish. — To polish well requires practice, care, and 
patience, and we would not advise amateurs to undertake the 
work unless they are desirous of so doing. Prepared French 
polish is generally for sale at paint stores. In the first place, 
see that the wood is smooth. Use fine sand-paper, and be 
sure to remove every scratch. Having obtained the polish, 
— lifrht or dark, according" to color of the wood, — soak small 
bits of tow or cotton wool in the polish, and apply evenly 
to the wood; add more polish to cotton wool, but before ap- 
plying to the wood place it inside a piece of linen rag, on 
which put a drop or tM^o of sweet oil — this prevents the rag 
from sticking; rub the wood again, giving a circular mo- 
tion to the rag; repeat the supply of polish and oil as re- 
quired, until the suiface is uniformly polished. 

Marquetry or Inlaying is a fascinating part of scroll 
sawing, and is destined to become more popular. At first 
thought it may seem difficult to inlay ,one piece of wood 
into another, but the process is simple when you know how. 



170 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

For our first lesson we will take a clover leaf, and inlay 
black- walnut into white holly. 

Take two pieces of wood, each one-eighth of an inch 
thick, walnut and holly ; fasten them together, either with 




4» 



Fig. 83. Fig. 84. 

common shoe pegs or screws. Let the walnut remain on top ; 
secure the design to wood; drill a small hole for the saw 
blade, the same as in fret sawing, in which insert blade (No. 
o) ; saw with your work on the right of saw blade. From 
the picture you will readily see how the dark piece of wood 
will drop down and fit into the light. If the bevel is just 
right it will leave the work smooth with no gaps. Having 
cut out the clover leaf, you can secure it in its place. Glue 
around the edges of the leaf, insert quickly in the holly, and 
let it harden under pressure. Finish off the work with sand- 
paper. 

Overlaying. — When the amateur has become master of 
his saw, so that he can saw delicate and intricate work, he 
should do overlaid work, as this is very neat and a change 
from other work. Ordinary flat picture-frames can be over- 
laid with vines and fine tracery. Here is an instance where 
glue becomes very useful, for one can fasten overlaid work 
on finished wood, where ordinarily it requires escutcheon 
pins, but all know it is not pleasant to drive them in light 
and frail work. Very pretty photograph frames are made 
by taking a pine board and sawing an oval out of the center 
and covering the pine with velvet. Fasten the overlaying on 



SILHOUETTES —8AND-PAPEETNG. 171 

velvet. Designs for overlaying, such as vines or clusters of 
flowers, a head or any other ornament, can be procured of 
almost any dealer; but a great many pretty designs for 
this work can be obtained in such books as the Ladies' Book 
and Harper's Bazaar. 

Silhouettes. — Few articles made with the scroll-saw are 
more ornamental than Silhouettes. Many designs can be 
found in books for children. They should be cut from ma- 
terial one-sixteenth of an inch thick, or from veneers. Black 
and white are favorite colors, or ebony and white holly. It re- 
quires a tough wood. The finest and best saws should be used. 
When veneers are used, they should be placed between two 
pieces of a sixteenth of an inch in thickness each, and fastened 
firmly. Silhouettes are used in various ways, by overlaying 
on polished wood or paper placed on a board for a back' 
ground. If you possess a treadle machine, you can make 
decorations for your wall, or even make a nice border. 
Paste a very dark strip around for the border, then procure 
white holly veneer and saw out a variety of patterns — you 
can saw one-half dozen or more at one time. Glue them on. 
the dark border, each equal distances apart. If you wish to 
saw a perfect likeness of one of the family or a friend, place 
a piece of paper on the wall, and with a strong light throw a 
shadow on the paper; now with a pencil trace the features, 
and with a pantagraph reduce to any size you wish. With 
a little practice you can do excellent work. You can dec- 
orate an easel you wish to give to a friend with his own 
likeness, by obtaining it in this way and reducing as stated, 
placing the picture on wood, saw it out and overlay the ob- 
ject to be given away. 

Sand- Papering. — To sand-paper flat surfaces, alway - 



172 OTJR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

use a block. Take two pieces of pine, three by four inches, 
and three-eighths of an inch thick ; through one of them put 
a few slender screws, just Jong enough to come through about 
one-eighth of an inch ; file these points sharp, take a piece of 
sand-paper four inches wide and seven and one-half long, lay 
one end on the screw points, pi-ess the paper over them, place 
another block on this, and fasten the two together with 
screws; two sets of blocks are best, one foi- fine, the other 
for coarse, paper; lay the work on a bench, hold the board 
with one hand and rub with the other, giving it a circular 
motion, and move rapidly ; begin with No. i, finish with No. 
(JO. Another good way for small work : Lay the whole sheet 
of paper on a bench or level board, turn the piece to be sand- 
papered down on it and rub. Small work can be done 
nicely in this way. 

Fret Sawing in Metals, Shell, Pearl, and Ivory. 

Brass, gold, silver, shell, ivory, and pearl can also be used 
by Fret Sawyers, many beautiful and useful ornaments being- 
produced by them. It is not generally known, but is a fact, 
that bi-ass, tin, zinc, and other composition metals, can be 
cut with the bracket saw almost as easily as wood. 

In sawing out thin metals, or thin and brittle substances, 
the article to be sawed should be placed between two thin 
pieces of walnut. The design can be placed on the wood as 
ordinary work, and the wood and metal sawed through at the 
same time. By this means very delicate work can be wrought, 
as the wood forms a support for the thin metal. No matter 
how fine the lines may be, or how intricate the work, with a 
steady hand and keen eye the saw will cut hair lines as 
well as coarse ones. 

For metal sawing, only the best blades should be used. 



MAKING ESCUTCHEONS AND HINGES. [ 7S 

Nos. I, o, and 00 are most desirable. In this manner, ear- 
rings and various articles of jewelry and ornament may be 
produced. 

Beautiful ornaments can also be cut from brass, silver, 
ivory, etc., for inlaying into woods of contrasting colors. 
Sheet brass, copper, and other metals can be procured of 
various thicknesses. A silver coin can be hammered quite 
thin and flat. With the fret-saw this can be worked up 
into articles of jewelry, or for inlaying purposes. Silver in- 
layed into ebony is very beautiful. 

Hard, vulcanized India-rubber is manufactured in 
sheets about two feet squaie, and is sold by the pound. It 
can be easily cut, and is very attractive and convenient to 
use for jewelry, card-baskets, etc. Even a handsome clock 
case can be made from this material. When sawing rubber, 
frequently place a little oil on the blade, to reduce friction. 

In putting nice work together, it is of importance to do 
it well, as good work can be easily spoiled. Hinges can be 
had at most stores, but they are usually too plain for fine 
work, and we propose to show how an ornamental hinge 
can be made by means of the fret-saw. Sheet brass, copper, 
or other metals, can easily be procured of various thicknesses. 
The best suited for this purpose will range from -J^ to -^ of 
an inch. Upon a piece of metal, the requisite size, trace, 
with a fine awl point, the design you have selected. Saw out 
the design, and leave flange sufficient to form a turn or socket, 
where the two parts of hinge are to be united by a pin. This 
flange will at first be straight, but by using a pair of small pli- 
ers and working it with a light hammer around a steel wire 
fully as large as the diameter of the pin, it will take a tubular 
shape. To the other half of the hinge there will be, of course^ 



174 



nrn ttomes and their adornmemtj. 



two more flanges to be made in the same way. The pin 
should 1)6 fitted as true as possible in order that the hinge 
may open and shut easily. The hinges should be fastened 





Fig. 86. 




Fig. 87. 



on with small wire pins, holes of proper size being drilled 
throuffh the metal and wood. 




Fig. 88. 




Fig. 89. 




Fig. 90. 



Fig. 91. 



Escutcheons for key-hole ornaments can also be cut from 
brass and other metals. A few styles are shown above. 



HAND SCROLL, OR FRET SA IVS. 175 

Many other small articles from metals can be cut out with 
the saw. We illustrate two very useful ones. They are 
metal loops for suspending clock cases, picture-frames, 
brackets, etc. For this, sheet brass is used. As nail-heads 
vary in size, the hole by which the loop is passed over the 
nail should be sufficiently roomy for the largest-sized pict- 
ure-nail. Fret- work boxes can be still further ornamented 
by means of corner braces cut in neat designs from brass. 
These can be cut in pairs by following the directions already 
given. 

Saws, Lathes, Prices, Etc. 

Some of the higher priced scroll sawing machines, have 
a turning lathe attachment, and are equipped with a com- 
plement of chisels and gouges, by means of which many 
useful and ornamental articles can be easily turned. Some 
also have a buzz-saw attachment, a dovetailing attachment, 
a molding attachment, and buffing and polishing attach- 
ments, so that they are adapted to a great variety of work. 

The cost of a scroll sawing machine varies from three to 
twenty-five dollars. With most machines, fi-om six to 
twelve saw blades are given when it is purchased. The 
saw blades cost from ten to seventy -five cents each, or from 
$1.20 to $6.00 per dozen, according to size. We present 
herewith a cut of a scroll sawing machine, to which any of 
the above-mentioned attachments can be made. 

Hand Scroll or Fret Saws. 

Persons who do not wish to go to the expense of a scroll 
or fret sawing machine, but who desire to do ornamental 
work in the making of brackets, or picture frames, or in- 



176 OUIi HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

laying work, can procure small hand scroll or fret saAvs at 
an expense of only a dollar or two at the most. These saws 
v\nll do most of the work that can be done by a machine, 
but of course it cannot be done as quickly. Marquetry or 
inlaying work may be done equally as well, and perhaps 



Fig. 92. 

better, by the hand scroll-saws. With these saws are 
usually furnished several blades and a number of designs. 
They may be procured at hardware stores where scroll 
sawing machines are kept, or of manufacturers. 

An ingenious boy with a few simple tools and an old 
sewing-machine table, could soon transform one of the above 
hand machines into an effective foot-power saw. 



(!lMi^F»^RFi 



THE ART OF WOOD CARVING. — ITS ORIGIN AND HISTORY. 

THE TOOLS AND THEIR USES. ORNAMENTS THAT MAY 

BE MADE. — HOW AMATEURS MAY LEARN THE ART. 

DIRECTIONS FOR FIRST ATTEMPTS. 




oi*io 



|00D CARVING.— Within the past few years 
much attention, has been given to carving on 
wood as a pastime and useful recreation. This 
is probably the oldest branch of Art within the 
knowledge of man. Apparently, the first weapon 
w^as a club, and the first attempt at decoration 
was some scratching or carving on it. Among 
the Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, it 
was much practiced. As a branch of Christian 
Art it was one of the earliest, and attained a 
high development in tlie fifteenth century, as is 
attested by the elaborate carvings in many of the old 
cathedrals in Europe. It greatly declined during the last 
century or two, but has again revived, and promises to 
attain great importance. The Swiss are noted for their 
high attainments in the art of wood carving, as thev are in 
their ornamental scroll sawing, and it is perhaps to them 



that Ave owe the revival of this art in America. 



[177] 



178 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Carving in wood is an elegant and useful art, and is 
easily learned. Of course, elaborate work is not easily done; 
but many articles of utility and adornment may be carved 
by any boy or girl with only ordinary mechanical ability. 
It is said that whittling' is natural to Americans, Carvino- 
is only a higher grade of whittling, in which the jackknife 
gives place to the chisel and the gouge. It would astonish 
most people to be shown what may be done with these 
simple tools. For not only may elegant trifles, such as 
brackets, book rests, bread plates, paper knives, picture- 
frames, etc., be made by the home carver, but chairs, tables, 
side boards, bedsteads, and otlier domestic articles may be 
ornamented in this way. 

That woman may excel in doing carved work, was 
shown by the work of the Cincinnati Carving Club, exhib- 
ited at the Centennial. What has been done by these ladies 
may be done by other ladies. It is here worthy of note that 
carving clubs are forming all over the country, and thereby 
stimulating hundreds to acquire this elegant and useful art. 
To aid such as may wish to learn the rudiments of carving, 
we have prepared the following lessons. 

The Use of Tools, 

The first lesson of the amateur is to learn the use of the 
three principal tools, — the flat chisel, gouge, and veining tool. 
(See tools 2, 3, and 4, next figure.) 

For this lesson- take a block of whitewood, or any soft 
wood, six inches long by two or three Ijroad and one and a 
half thick. Secure it firmly to a bench; then, with the flat 
chisel, carve the beveled edges and make the miters perfect. 
Now take the veining tool, No. 3, which cuts a V-shaped 
groove, and carve out the design, as given on the next page. 



PRACTICAL INSTRUCTION. 



179 



In using this tool, it must be held in the right hand and 
in a slanting direction. The left hand should be hollowed 
and placed on the tool, the wrist and tips of the fingers 




Fig. 93. 

resting upon the work. This steadies the right hand and 
prevents the tool from slipping forward. Now use the 
gouge, and carve out the circular depression which may be 




Fig. 94. 

seen in the design. Practice on this lesson until you can 
carve the design accurately. 





m 





DESIGNS FOR WOOD CARVING. 



HINTS TO AMATEURS. 181 

It is necessary, in order to carry on wood carving, to pro- 
cure a strong table of deal or other wood, the stronger and 
heavier it is the better, as nails must be driven into it, and 
holes bored. It must stand firm and solid and in a good 
light. The first attempt must necessarily be a simple out-, 
and perhaps an ivy-leaf is the easiest representation that can 
be atteiupted. Choose a piece of pine wood about three- 
quarters of an inch thick, free from knots, and perfectly 
dry and well seasoned; old pieces such as may be found 
stored away in many houses would answer well for be- 
ginners. 

A sketch of the leaf to be carved must first be drawn 
upon paper, the back of which is then rubbed with red 
chalk or other coloring matter at hand. This paper is then 
pinned upon the wood, and the outlines of the leaf pressed 
over with some blunt instrument, such as a crochet-needle or 
pin-head, and upon removing the paper the outline will bu 
found upon the wood. Deficiencies in the outline must be 
corrected in pencil, or, if hard wood is used, in pen and ink. 
Then follows the first process, known as stabbing out, which 
is done by holding the chisel upi-ight and pressing directly 
downward along the outline of the leaf. After the design is 
thus distinctly outlined into the wood, it is a good plan to 
deepen the depression made by the chisel, by running the 
curved gouge round the edge until a groove about the six- 
teenth of an inch deep is made. The next work is to cut 
away the wood, and this requires caution. 

Until the operator thoi'oughly understands how to cut 
with or against the grain of the wood, he should remove as 
little wood as possible. In clearing the wood between the 
outlines, it is best to work across the grain, and to begin 



182 OUR EOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

cutting out the wood about a quarter of an inch from the 
outline, shaving very gradually toward it, relieving the wood 
at each cut, and setting the leaf free. This work should be 
done very carefully until the wood is entirely removed be- 
tween the pattern edges, leaving the pattern in relief, care 
being taken always to cut thoroughly and never to tear or 
dig the wood. An experienced carver remarks : " Leave no 
rags, jags, or fragments; clear out completely every angle 
and corner; get your work as smooth as possible with what- 
ever tool you may be using, and let every stroke of your 
chisel or gouge be regulated by design. By following these 
rules, by cutting slowly and carefully, a -little at a time, by 
holding the tools firmly and leaving the pattern sloping out- 
ward to be finished, the amateur will be surprised at the re" 
suits obtained after a little practice." 

The midribs of the various lobes of the leaf next demand 
attention. These must first be stabbed out, as in the outline* 
and then the surface of the lobe must be slanted down to 
them from side to side. The second stage is but a repetition 
of the first process, the ground being uniformly lowered, and 
then the appearance of the leaf claims consideration. " Cer- 
tain portions of the surface nuist be lowered to present an 
appearance of reality," some portions remaining at their or- 
iginal elevation, others being cut or shaved away to present 
an undulating surface. Here a knowledge of art is useful 
in suggesting the proper distribution of light and shade, 
which must be conveyed by the ingenious use of the gouges 
of different degrees of curvature. No artificial means should 
be used for smoothing or leveling the unequal appearance of 
the cai'ved surface, but it should remain as the tools leave it. 

The study of natural leaves is very important in carving, 
for by this means a knowledge of the different fibers in va- 
rious leaves is acquired, and wood carving, from being a 
merely mechanical amusement, becomes in reality an art. 



LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 

GENERAL RULES AND OBSERVATIONS APPLICABLE TO THE 
IMPROVEMENT OF SMALL LOTS FROM ONE-SIXTEENTH 
TO ONE-HALF ACRE IN AREA. — ERRORS OF COMMON OC- 
CURRENCE. — STYLE OF GARDENING. — EXPOSURE AND 
LOCATION. — GRADING AND TERRACING. 




oj»;o 



EFORE entering upon details as to the best 
methods of improvement, and as a fruitful source 
of awaKening attention to the subject, it has 
seemed best to enumerate some of the more no- 
ticeable faults, most of which may be seen upon 
any street of half a mile in length in any but 
the most wealthy portions of our cities and vil- 
lages, in the hope that the reader may the better 
analyze his premises, if already improved, or 
guard against these defects when about to make 
for himself a home in the future. Chief among 
these faults may be named the following— 



Errors to Be Avoided. 

1 . Houses too near the street. 

2. Too many trees inside the yard. 



[183] 



184 OUR HOMES AJ^D THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

3. Too mucli shade about the house. 

4. The use of improper trees, considermg- the style of 
architecture employed, as well as the use of such trees as 
have the disagreeable habit of suckering, or sending up 
sprouts, or that produce unsightly blossoms, or food for 
"horrid worms," as ladies say. 

5. The use of improper colors upon fences and build- 
ings, — colors that do not harmonize with each other, nor 
with the things that nature furnishes in that locality. 

6. The want of care necessary to keep a place tidy and 
neat, 

7. The destruction of lawns by the use of too many and 
too great a variety of things in small places. 

8 The use of too many styles of fence upon the same 
block, out of proportion as to parts, some having too small 
posts, some being too low, others too high, together Avith 
numberless other defects, Avhich we shall mention in connec- 
tion with each subject of which we shall speak hereafter. 

How TO Begin. 

But lest the want of space forbids our going suffi- 
ciently into details upon all these topics, it may not be amiss 
to remind the reader that imitation is one of the most fruit- 
ful sources of advancement. Look about you, and when 
you see a thing that looks pleasing and tasty and suited to 
your means, strive to copy it. Take notes and measure- 
ments in detail, for it is the minute features that produce 
the perfect whole. Do not allow yourself to guess at the 
size of a fence post or the height of the fence, the width of a 
walk, or the distance trees are planted apart, etc., etc., unless 
you know your taste is good in regard to such matters. 



IMPROVING SMALL LOTS. 185 

Many a man can appreciate good music, still he may not be 
able to utter a musical sound; and so in the adornment of 
homes, most can admire, but few can create them independ- 
ently, and hence must be governed by rules or samples. 

Or, better still, if you are able, get some person skilled 
in such things to furnish a plan, or at least give some sug- 
gestions that you may profit by when improvements are 
commenced. 

Things to Be Attained. 

The improvement of city or village lots that do not ex- 
ceed a half-acre in extent is quite a simple, easy matter 
if you have carefully noted all the errors spoken of in the 
preceding pages, so that you are sure not to commit any of 
them, in which case, the work is already half done. 

Simplicity and Neatness 

Are the two main things to be sought in these little places, 
and since they can only be considered as one part or feature 
of larger places, no attempt to embody everything that 
could be attained upon a lot containing five or more acres 
will ever give pleasure or satisfaction within the limits of a 
small lot. The best that can be done is to secure one fine 
piece of lawn ; a few choice flowers, not attempting to raise 
all that are named in the floral catalogues; and a few very 
fine, small growing trees and shrubs, in place of those of 
larger growth that are suitable for extensive lawns, together 
with only such walks as are necessarily traveled in going to 
and from the house to the approach, out-buildings, or flower 
garden, if one is kept at all; this last being of doubtful 
propriety within such narrow limits. Hence, use only small 
ornaments for small yards, and thus form a picture perfect 



186 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

in all its parts, but taken in miniature. But at present we 
will consider some things that more properly come first. 

Style of Gardening Used. 

In general, only the "formal " or "geometric " style can 
be applied within narrow limits. There is no room to make 
curved walks and flowing outlines, rockeries, cascades, lakes, 
and other things that belong to the natural style. A mixed 
style might properly be adopted upon a good-sized lot, pro- 
viding care is taken in locating the house and out-buildings, 
having a side entrance to the former, and having the latter 
so placed in the rear that a curved walk could be started 
from the proper place for an entrance to the yard, passing 
the door of the house, thence on towaixl the places that it be- 
comes necessary to visit about every home. No abrupt turns 
would be admissible, for nothing of the " picturesque " can 
ever be tolerated here, not even rough rustic chairs and 
things of like nature. On account of their nearness to the 
dwellinof, all architectural ornaments or manufactured arti- 
cles should conform to, and be in harmony with, the style of 
the house, which is the leading feature in these small lots. 
It may be laid down as a general rule that things brought 
into close contact should either produce harmony of design 
by happy contrasts, the one being a natural and the other 
an artificial object, or else be of similar nature and the same 
style. Do not use gothic vases and other architectural orna- 
ments in connection with a house in Grecian or Roman style. 

The Exposure or Location. 

Of course we do not expect all can obtain the most de- 
<^irable places, and many of the readers have already pur- 



THE EXPOSURE OB LOCATION. 157 

chased and perhaps built ; but it is proper to speak of these 
features, and then each can apply them so far as his purse 
or premises will allow. 

First, then, in cities or villages where the streets are sure 
to be graded sooner or later, a medium elevation should be 
selected, being most likely to conform best to the level of the 
grade of the street when established. Of all locations, a 
southeast corner lot in the block is the most desirable, con- 
sidering the means of access to barns, out-buildings, etc., and 
the bringing in contact of the most protected, or least in- 
clement sides of the house for an entrance, and the most 
easily sheltered portions of the grounds for a lawn or 
ornamental purposes. Next to this would be the corner 
opposite on the south, being the northeast, which does very 
well by placing the house near the road on the north, and 
having a bay-window or veranda opening toward the south 
f'.de, where the lawn should be, as before. Next to these 
two, we would choose an inside lot on the west side of the 
north and south road, or the noi'th side of the east and west 
road. But should you be so unfortunate as to get the less 
desirable locations, it might justify more planting for shelter 
in front, and perhaps pure white houses with green blinds, 
together with a location less distant from the street than Ave 
shall recommend in our directions upon that subject, mak- 
ing the ornamental part of the yard partly to the warm 
side, 01 even behind the house if desired. 

Of course, good neighborhoods, good views, nearness to 
churches, schools, and places of business, although not 
strictly belonging to the subject of ornamental gardening, 
should always be considered, as also good water, means of 
drainage, distance from noisy, smoky, or unhealthful man- 
ufacturing establishments, or cess-pools, etc. Get started 



188 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

light if possible, and then half the work is saved; verifying 
the adage, " Well begun is half done." 

The Style of House to be Built, 

Although not properly belonging to this subject, needs great 
care in its selection. Nothing in ornamental gardening can 
ever atone for a poorly designed house. So, if possible, 
consult your architect and gardener together; and if you 
can afford neither, you had better borrow such features as 
you hnd in works upon architecture, like the one in hand, 
using them as your pattern and guide rather than trust 
youi own poor taste, if such only you possess. 

The Distance of the House from the Road. 

This depends much upon the style or size of the house, 
and more upon the shape of the lot, which should properly 
be twice as long as wide. It is also quite important to con- 
sidei the views to be obtained or obstructed by sun-ound- 
ings. In general, all the houses in a block should front on 
the same line, and the center of the house should be placed 
back from the street one-fourth or one-third the length of 
the lot, the distance being increased with the increased 
width of the lot, providing the lengths are the same, as is 
usually the case in cities' and villages. Upon a lot ten rods 
long, this brings a house that is thirty-three feet long, from 
twenty -five to thirty -five feet from the road, the shorter dis- 
tance being about the least admissible in such sized lots, espe- 
cial I y if all owners on the block can agree. And between these 
distances, the economic use to which you might desire to 
put your back yard, or the ornamental use to which you 



IMPROVEMENTS. 189 

might wish to devote your front yard, must determine each 
case. 

Then, too, if your lot is ver}' high above the grade, pru- 
dence would dictate not to use the less distance, but rather 
to increase the greater distance, thus giving less pitch per 
rod from the house to sidewalk. The pitch should in no 
case exceed one foot to the rod, not more than half this 
being desirable ; and even then the surface should be a little 
full near the center, giving it a slight convexity, which in- 
creases the apparent breadth of lawn. 

Means of Improvement. 

The first thing to be done upon a new place is to secure 
perfect dramage for cellar and surplus waters, and the next 
is to mark out your necessary 

Roads and Walks; 

But as we have occasion to speak of these more fully under 
the head of large places, the details being the same in both, 
we will proceed to the 

Grading and Terracing. 

In case the pitch is too great from the house to the 
street, or in other places upon the premises, it will be neces- 
sary to terrace; and when this is done, let it seem to be a 
part of the house, being parallel with it, and supporting the 
same at every turn when near to it, or parallel with the 
fence when near to the road. Let the banks be smoothly 
cut, and neatly sodded with the finest June or blue 
grass sod that can be procured from some adjoining road- 



190 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

side or pasture, not coarse timothy, clover, or dandelion sod. 
The same kind should be used in strips about eight inches 
wide for marking the borders of drives and walks, and be 
well pounded down with the back of the spade, and kept 
well watered during dry weather. Give the face of the ter - 
race sufficient slant to keep it from falling down, and a 
concave rather than a convex face, which last does not 
look nor stand well. It would hardly seem proper to resort 
to terraces unless there is an incline above a foot to the rod 
in distance. 

As regards the grading of the general surface, it is often 
advisable to plant the ground to some spring hoeing crop, 
— potatoes are best, — thus giving the old sod time to decay, 
making it much easier to level down smoothly in the fall, 
which of all seasons is the best for such work. Fill up all 
abrupt depressions, making the general surface smooth and 
even, with good descent for drainage. 

Formation of Lawns. 

As lawns constitute the chief charm- in all small grounds, 
great care should be taken in their formation. Dig the 
ground deep and apply plenty of fertilizers in the form of 
rich loam, not clay alone unless the soil is too sandy, nor 
sand alone, for it will not hold moisture nor sustain lux- 
uriant vegetation ; but use both together, or more of one or 
the other as there seems to be need. Apply also a good 
quantity of composted muck if needed, and a generous supply 
of manure as free from weeds and the coarser kinds of grass 
seed as possible. Composting one season and turning often, 
will greatly improve barn-yard manure, and mixing it thor- 
oughly with the muck or road dust is better still. After 



FORMATION OF LAWNS. 191 

the ground is leveled and the prepared manure applied, rake 
thoroughly with a fine-tooth iron rake, removing all chunks, 
sticks, stones, sods, etc., which may be buried in the ground 
or removed. 

After this let the ground settle awhile, through a heavy 
rain if possible; and then, after again raking the entire 
ground over and making the surface smooth and even, sow 
evenly a mixture of equal parts of June or Kentucky blue- 
grass and redtop seed, with a little sweet-scented clover, 
not more than a pound to three bushels of the other two. 
Use this mixture at the rate of one quart, or a little less, to 
the square rod of surface. Sow early in the spring or in 
September, and about July commence mowing to kill the 
weeds; and if dandelions, thistles, or other perennial weeds 
are seen, dig them out with a garden trowel. Now, by mow- 
ing once in a week or two, rolling, and during dry weather 
sprinkling occasionally, you will soon have the greatest or- 
nament that can be obtained near a house or made to adorn 
small premises. 

A More Permanent Lawn, 

One that will not be parched and dry during the droughts so 
common in our climate in summer, may be formed by another 
method which is costly in the beginning, but will return a 
rich reward when once completed. This is made by " trench- 
ing," or turning all the ground upside down to the depth of 
two, or better, three feet; commence at one side by throw- 
ing out a ditch, then fill this by forming another of same 
width next to it, and so on until all the ground has been 
inverted, the first dirt thrown out being carried to fill the 
last ditch. Then by leveling, rolling, and forming a new 



192 



OUR HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 



surface of rich soils, as at first directed, and sowing: as before, 
you will have the most durable and perfect lawn that can 
be formed, and the cheapest in the end. But as most Amer- 
icans are too impatient for such work, we have given the 
quick way first, supplying the lack of moisture by artificial 
watering during periods of drought. 




G.Hj^F»x:^i^ f^. 



SPECIAL FEATURES. DRIVES AND WALKS. VARIETIES OF 

SHRUBS, TREES AND FLOWERS TO USE. — LAYING OUT 
AND MAKING WALKS AND DRIVES. — EASY METHODS OF 
LAYING OUT DRIVES. — GROUPING AND PLANTING. 



SPECIAL FEATURES. 



RIVES AND WALKS.— As we have before 
stated, the number, direction, and location of 
drives and walks are matters of the utmost im- 
portance, as these not only form convenient 
means of ingress and egress to the premises, and 
connect the points which must be so often visited 
about every house, such as the barn, gardens, 
out-buildings, etc., but also furnish the boundary 
lines for lawns, garden-patches, and other divis- 
ions of the premises. Therefore it becomes a 
matter of the utmost importance where these 
necessary features should be placed to make them at once 
convenient and useful, seeming to fall just where we need 
to go in following our daily pursuits, — a thing that no 
true economist should overlook. Still, they can be made 
"a thing of beauty," or at least, so as to enhance the* 
more beautiful features, since they furnish a guide for cor- 

13 [193] 




194 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

rect planting, which is the most difficult of landscape work. 
Not that we would set our trees and shrubs in regular 
oi-der along the line of the drives, as would be eminently 
proper in the strictly "formal style;" still, at every turn, 
the one must be governed and made to support the other in 
an informal way ; hence the importance of careful study in 
locating our walks and drives. No absolute rules can be laid 
down, since premises and their objects vary so materially. 

But first of all, ofreat care should be taken in regfard to 
the location of the house, for this in turn must govern all 
else. Next to this, as few walks and drives should be made 
as will meet the every-day necessities ; for if too numerous, 
they are expensive luxuries which require constant care and 
attention to prevent their becoming nuisances, for such they 
will become when overrun with weeds and grass, while at 
the same time they greatly mar the breadth pf lawn by 
cutting it up into small patches like a piece-work quilt. If 
the lot is small, the house very near the road, — less than 
twenty-five feet, — and the door in front, it will hardly be 
possible to do more than run a straight walk from the road to 
the door, turning by a gentle elbow curve and passing along 
the side of the house to the kitchen door, leaving a narrow 
strip of sod between the walk and house, and thence to the 
out-buildings in the same formal manner. 

Trees must be of small size, and planted so as to shut out 
views of an objectionable nature, but should never be close 
to the house. Use only nice flowering shrubs, such as the 
althea, deutzia, spirea, iveigela, and nice roses on the 
warmer sidas; and azaleas, kahnias, and rhododendrons, all 
"with numerous varieties, on the cold or northern exposures, 
near the dwelling. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 195 

If yon keep a horse or cow and have no alley in the rear, 
it will be necessary to put next to one side of the lot a 
straight drive leading directly to the barn, located at the 
back corner on that side. A slight raise in the turf on the 
side of the drive next to the house, together with a judicious 
planting of shrubbery, either of a strictly ornamental char- 
acter or of currants, gooseberries, etc., thus shutting out the 
view of the barn and gravel, may be desirable, thereby 
combining the useful with the decorative. 

Flowers require such time and attention as few people 
are willing to devote to them ; still, if the ladies can be in- 
duced to give their time, they can be made to add much to 
the beauty and attractiveness of the surroundings. Culti- 
vate those that are hardy, such as peonies, petunias, phlox 
drummondii, asters, zinnias, etc., putting only one kind 
in each of the small, oval beds cut out here and there in 
the lawn, or else use some high-growing plants in the center 
and low ones around the border of the beds, which should 
be raised a few inches toward the center. Select such colors 
as blend together nicely, and care for them well. A small 
evergreen makes a nice center-piece. 

Places of Larger Extent, with houses located as 
before directed, especially if the entrance is on the side, — a 
much more convenient plan, considering ease of access, the 
front door being replaced with a bay-window if frontage is 
favorable, — admit of a greater diversity of walks and 
drives; and these do not differ, only in width, the wider 
ones, above eight feet in width, being used for both purposes 
very properly. 

The first thing now to take into consideration is a con- 
venient place for an entrance. If your daily travels lead 



196 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

you nearly always toward a certain corner of your lot on 
the front, and your door is on the same side, you are fortu- 
nate; for then it will be an easy matter to make your open- 
ing in the fence somewhat to that side of the front of the 
house. Passing through the fence at right angles therewith, 
very soon bear toward the nearest corner of the house, and 
before reaching it, again turn in the opposite direction, 
passing the entrance at right angles with it ; thence continue 
the drive toward the barn, which should be located op- 
posite the street entrance, and toward the back corner of 
the lot, if not too distant; at the same time a return curve 
may be made, lea.ving the barn drive on an outward curve 
near the house steps and meeting the entrance drive in the 
same manner, having made a pear-shaped figure. If all 
this happens on the side opposite your best room, which 
should always be on the side of your house overlooking the 
finest, warmest parts of your pleasure-grounds, so much the 
more fortunate. Again, just where your entrance drive 
first turns, you can leave it in an abrupt manner in the 
opposite direction with a less conspicuous drive or walk 
which skirts that side of the premises, and makes its way to 
the barn, wood-yard, etc. This will obviate the necessity 
of passing the house when going on business, drawing feed, 
coal, etc. In case you have a corner lot or an alley in the 
rear, there will be less necessity for this last drive, since the 
bam may be placed on the road or alley, and easily reached 
from the outside. 

Again, in case there is need for often going in both di- 
rections after reaching the street, and your premises are 
sufficiently large, the house being fifty feet or more from the 
road, you can have two openings into the yard, about equally 



WALKS AND DRIVES. 



197 



distant from the house, and unite these by a curved drive 
which connects with the first-named drive where it turns 
nearest to the front corner of the house, as spoken of at first. 
This will make nearly a half circle of the drive connecting 
the entrances and passing the front of the house, which, in 






***** -%..,-'*-. { 



^ ■■••.X7\ 






Fig. 36. 



this case, may very properly have a front door opening into 
a hall, and also a veranda or open porch in place of the bay 
window, w^hich w^ould now properly fall on the side of the 
house next to the pleasure-grounds. 

As to the details necessary to form correct and pleasing 
curves, (not geometric ones in all cases, as some seem to 
think, and even give rules for forming), space will not per- 
mit me to explain fully A correct eye will stick a row of 



198 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

stakes through the center of the space intended for a walk 
or drive, and a measuring pole as long as the drive is wide, 
with a short stick nailed at right angles to the measure at 
its center, will determine the outside line of the walk, pro- 
vided the short crossing stick is kept in a line with the cen- 
ter row of stakes at every point measured, as shown in the 
figure. 

The same figure will also show the arrangement of the 
planting, which should not be in any formal order, but so 
placed as to appear natural and not to obstruct any views, 
while at the same time furnishing a pretense for turning 
just as we do. There are other methods, such as using 
measurements and making offsets from tangent lines, for 
which we must refer you to the more extensive works on 
this subject. One more, which is very easy to put in prac- 
tice if the ground is newly graded' and raked, is to take 
your horse and carriage and start at the entrance and drive, 
in an easy, natural way, toward the points you wish to 
reach ; then make the return, meeting the first track on the 
outward bend, merging into it in a graceful manner, and pass- 
ing out. Then widen the track, by stakes stuck on each side, 
to the width of your drive, or let it remain as it is for a 
walk only. This is the easiest of all methods if you have 
any idea of where you ought to drive. 

Making Walks and Drives. 

This should be done in as permanent a manner as your 
means will admit. There are many methods, but the same 
general principles govern them all; viz., thorough drainage 
underneath, and a hard, compact surface that will not cut 
up into ruts, nor furnish dust or mud at any season of the 



DEIVES AND WALKS. 199 

year. In order to accomplish this, you will need to dig out 
the dirt to the depth of one foot at least, using the same for 
filling where needed, and leaving -the bottom with a gentle 
inclination toward the center if the drive is not more than 
twelve feet in width ; in this case a tile drain should be laid 
under this lowest line, following the course of the road. 
But in case the road is wider, slant the bottom both ways 
from the center toward the outside, and then under both 
these lowest points use tiers of tiles as before. The tiles 
should be put at least one foot lower than the bottom of the 
road-bed, and laid as directed in the article upon the im- 
provement of large places, the ditches being filled with 
gravel or other porous soil, in order to let the water drain 
ofi" rapidly from the road above. 

The cheapest material with which to fill the lower part 
of the road-bed is probably cobble-stone, which should be 
laid smoothly and evenly over the bottom, and then covered 
with layers of broken stones, stone chippings, which may be 
bought sometimes very cheap, large gi'avel stones, oyster 
shells or other materials of similar nature, such as can be 
most easily procured in your locality. Fill in evenly, and 
finish with clean, coarse gravel to a depth of three or more 
inches, bringing the edges up to within two inches of the 
top of the sod border befoi-e spoken of, which should always 
form a border between the drive and the seeded lawn. The 
center of the drive or walk should be higher than the sides, 
haviner an elevation of about one-half inch to the foot in 
width from the side to the center, or four inches rise in a 
twelve-foot road. Each layer of material should be thor- 
oughly rolled, and the surface kept well and evenly raked, 
and freed from weeds. The margins of sod should be neatly 



200 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

trimmed several times during the season, keeping them on. 
the original line, which may be preserved by driving a 
line of stakes on each side so that the tops will just come 
even with the sodding. There are several other features in 
connection with the making of roads, of which we have 
only spoken briefly, and which must be passed by in this 
brief treatise, referring you again to more exhaustive works 
on landscape gardening. 

Of this subject something has already been said in con- 
nection with other subjects; and since no small limits can 
do it justice, it may be as well to omit it as a separate 
topic, and glance at it in connection with the subjects treated 
of in the few remaining pages. A very good means of in- 
creasing the breadth of lawn in small lots is to have no 
boundary fence between neighboring lots, especially along 
the front half of the lots. In this case, no little care should 
be exercised in the planting of trees between the two dwell- 
ings, by the judicious disposition of which we may shut 
out the view of our neighbor's house from the best win- 
dows and other points of view, and thus appear to own a 
larger place than we really do. Even the entrances to 
two adjoining places may be combined in one so far as the 
starting point is concerned, with a saving of space, and no 
loss in effect. In case these methods are put in practice, it 
may be best to erect a high fence along the back half of the 
line, and then run a line of hedge or a grape arbor at right 
anglas to this on the front end, reaching nearly from one 
house to the other, and sepai-ating the front views from the 
kitchen and other unsightly offices necessary to every house- 
hold. Of this, we shall speak again under the subject of 
fences. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 



201 



A few words on the general location of plants : Except 
in strictly formal grounds, do not plant trees at regular 
distances along the walks, borders, etc., nor attempt to 
make one side exactly correspond to its counterpart. 
Neither go to the other extreme and scatter them indiscrim- 
inately over the premises, thus breaking up all the breadth 
of lawn and shutting out all desirable views. Give heed to 
the development of these last two features, which may be 
promoted by properly grouping trees of harmonious forms 
and shades, also by planting most thickly along the margins 
of the premises, especially on the sides where shelter is 
needed from cold winds, and in the turns of the walks and 
drives, as spoken of elsewhere. Leave open vistas from the 
best points of view to fine objects in the distance, or on the 
premises, and many a happy hour will take the place of idle 
melancholy. 




(!xFIi\F»a^KR ^. 



TREE PLANTING. — THE BEST TIME TO PLANT. — HOW TO 
PLANT. — REMOVING AND PLANTING LARGE TREES. — HOW 
TO SELECT. — A GOOD LIST. — CARE OF TREES AND SUC- 
CESS IN THEIR CULTURE. — FENCES. — KINDS AND THEIR 
STYLE. — HOW TO MAKE THEM ORNAMENTAL. 




oJOtc 



gardeners 



REE PLANTING.— All American 
agree, we think, in placing November and De- 
cember (if open) at the head of all other months 
for the planting of deciduous ornamental trees. 
To be sure, small trees and shrubs will do well 
planted in the spring, especially if the season 
proves not too dry, and proper care is taken 
to mulch the ground, and thus prevent the di- 
rect rays of the sun from absorbing the moisture 
immediately about the roots. 

The conditions necessary to be observed may 
1. Never remove a tree from 
a good soil and place it in a poorer one; and in order to 
prevent this, the hole in which the tree is to be set, must be 
dug much larger than the tree, and then the extra space, 



be noted in the following order 



up 



to a 

[202] 



proper depth, filled with rich soil, or with 



TREE PLANTING. 203 

manure mixed with the lower and most distant parts of 
the soil in the hole. 2. Do not put the manure in con- 
tact with the roots, nor set your tree too deep, for these two 
errors have caused more failures than all others. The 
deeper and wider you make the holes the better, even to four 
feet deep, and that much wider than the roots, filling the 
extra space with rich dirt, well packed down, in order to 
prevent the tree from settling when the rains come. 

In transplanting large trees, above three inches in diam- 
eter, a preparation must be made before freezing weather 
comes on in the fall. This consists in digging and prepar- 
ing the hole to receive the tree, as before, after putting in 
some extra dirt, which is to be removed before dropping the 
tree into the hole, and used in filling any extra space about 
the roots. Also dig a trench around the tree as deep as its 
main roots run, leaving a large ball of dirt attached to the 
loots. Shave the dirt down on top until the roots appear, 
to lessen the weight. Both the trench and the receiving 
hole should be filled with straw, leaves, or coarse manure, to 
prevent the ball of roots and the extra filling dirt from 
freezing down on the bottom. 

Time for Removing Trees thus Prepared. 

Now, if you have extensive planting to be done, and the 
above preparations are completed, you can wait until the 
ground is thoi-oughly frozen in winter, *when the removal 
should be done, taking cai'e not to bruise the trees, and leav- 
ing the ball of dirt as large as can be conveniently moved. 
If but few trees are to be removed, and the M^eather is favor- 
able, i. e., cold, freezing nights and warm days, some prac- 
tice moving the trees in the fall, early in the morning, after a 



204 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

crust has been frozen over the ball of dirt left about the tree 
dug around the day previous, and thus obviate the necessity 
of covering the dirt, which thaws out at midday, if left ex- 
posed on the surface near the hole. But where extensive 
planting is to be done, the first method should be adopted. 
Then in midwinter remove the fillino- and dig- down the bank 
on the most convenient side to such a slant as to admit a 
stone-boat or sled being backed under the tree, when tipped 
over in the opposite direction. In this way, trees a foot in 
diameter may be safely moved, if you apply force enough to 
move them. Another method of moving large trees is to 
use a wide, stout cart with a heavy tongue, which last is 
raised along side the body of the tree and bound fast, at the 
same time passing a strong chain under the ball of roots and 
over the axle of the cart, then pull the tree over with a long 
rope attached to the end of the tongue, after which, hitch a 
team to the root end, draw it to the new hole on planks, and 
lower as before directed. 

Before removing the tree, be sure and make some mark, 
either by cutting off a limb or peeling the bark from the 
body a little, always on the same side of every tree you re- 
move, the more easily to be remembered, by which you may 
know how the tree stood, and thus be able to place the same 
sides to the same points of the compass when you set them 
out. Some think this an unimportant point, while others 
lay great stress upon it. At least, it is a safe rule and re- 
quires little extra work; and indeed it would seem quite 
reasonable that the same side that had become acclimated to 
the rays of the sun or any class of winds should be best able 
to conform to their effects when transplanted in the same 
relative positions. As a general rule, the width of the roots 



KINDS OF TREES. 205 

left should be as many feet as the tree is inches in diameter. 
After drawing the tree to its place, remove the filling and 
dirt until to the right depth by measure, and then lower 
the tree carefully to its place, packing the dirt about the 
ball and using the rest of the filling for a mulch. 

For removing small trees or shrubs, and always for ever- 
greens, which are much more difficult to make grow, where 
the dirt is to be removed from the roots, damp days should 
be chosen; othei'wise great care should be taken to cover 
and moisten the roots. Your success will also depend much 
upon the kind of trees chosen. 

Maples, elms, ashes, and most nursery-grown trees are 
quite tenacious of life; but oaks, hickories, chestnuts, and 
other deep-rooted trees must be handled with care. Some 
cut a circle about the tree, severing the roots some distance 
from the body, or even dig a trench and fill with rich dirt 
six months before removal, causing many fine, fibrous roots 
to spring out. Never select tall, spindling trees, grown in 
deep shade ; but rather get good, healthy, stocky trees from 
the open fields or outskirts of the woods, where the sunlight 
and winds have had a-' chance to harden and acclimate them 
to the conditions with which they are likely to meet in 
your exposed lawns or roadsides. The land must be tho- 
roughly drained previously, so that no water will settle in 
the holes, for no success need be expected with most trees 
unless this is done, either naturally or by tiles. 

Kinds of Trees. 

Of the shaped trees, shrubs, and flowers to be chosen to 
accompany the various styles of architecture, we have already 
spoken several times, either by way of criticism or direct in- 
struction ; and since we have only attempted to improve small 



20G OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

city places so far, where little can be done in the line of 
grouping, we can recommend no trees better suited to the 
I'oadside than the different kinds of maples, which are up- 
right, hardy, beautiful trees. 

Elms are superb specimen trees, especially on low or 
level grounds, where there is plenty of roon;i for their devel- 
opment; but for these small places, as before stated, trees of 
the second class in size are as large as can be used, and 
among these may be named the mountain Msh, catalpa, 
beeches, birches, lindens, dogwood, sassafras, buckeye or 
horse-chestituts, and m most locations, nothing is more beau- 
tiful at all seasons of the year than the common pepper- 
idge, among deciduous trees. And among the evergreens 
useful for small places, the Norway spruce takes the lead 
for either specimen trees or small groups, while the arbor 
vitce is best suited for ornamental fences or hedges, as it 
stands trimming well and thrives under almost any condi- 
tion, in shade or sunshine. Cedars also answer the same 
purpose very well. Evergreen barberry and the low, bushy 
juniper fill a needed want. 

But we must refer you to the woods or to a list of the 
trees that may be had almost anywhere, for want of further 
space. 

Fences. 

The subject of fences, of which we promised to speak, 
will be difficult, if we attempt to please every one, judging 
by the numerous styles now displayed in front of residences 
in cities. Tongue cannot describe them nor printer's ink do 
them justice ; so we will not tiy, but proceed to offer some 
suggestions which meet our views of good-sense, taste, and 
economy. In the first place, let every man on the same 



KINDS AND STYLES OF FENCES. 207 

side of the block agree to have a similar fence, if possible, 
thereby producing some degree of harmony, instead of entire 
discord. 

From the various views we hear expressed upon this 
subject ralmost every day, we find that many persons of 
good judgment are anxious to see all fences removed from 
the road, and the lawn extended to the sidewalk ; and, in- 
deed, it has desirable features. It looks well to the passer- 
by, and makes it very convenient for him to step into the 
yard, peep into the open window at night, or examine every 
little opening bud or inviting flower by day; and at the 
same time there is little resistance offered to keep idle hands 
from appropriating such things as fancy leads them to 
covet. 

Admitting, then, the need of some protection, what shall 
it be? The two objects for which fences are erected are pro- 
tection and ornament. The first requires only strength and 
height, and is adapted to the use of back yards and parts 
that are unsightly, or about yards containing fine fruits or 
other things that are likely to suffer from viciously inclined 
men and stock, or from mischievous boys. Any neat, high, 
tight board or sharp picket fence will answer the purpose, 
not less than five feet being a proper height. But better 
still would be a nice hedge of thorns; osage orange, where 
not too much exposed to cold, as it is scarcely hardy enough 
for Northern States, or buckthorn, which last Downing rec- 
ommends above all other hedge-plants for this climate, are 
among the best. Or if ornament is sought also, with pro- 
tection from winds, use Norway spruce, hemlock, or arbor 
vitse, planted closely, and carefully tended and clipped, let- 
ting them attain the height of five or more feet, thick and 
even throughout their whole length. 



208 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



But about all the ornamental parts of your small yard, 
and including so much of your house as presents no un- 







m 



sightly defects or unpleasant features, and of course, in- 
cluding the whole main front of vour lot must be made a 



KINDS AND STYLES OF FENCES. 209 

fence in which the ornamental, or at least the nnnotieeable, 
predominates, protection being made only partial and of 
secondary importance. 

What shall it be, — iron, stone, or wood? Of the whole 
list, what can be prettier than a beautiful, low, well-kept 
hedge, made of some of the evergreens last named? Still 
these will not answer alone if cattle are allowed to run the 
roads, and they must be protected by some inconspicuous 
wooden or iron structure. Next in neatness, comes a low 
wall, with a coping of cut stone, the whole not exceeding 
ten inches in height above the surface of the ground, and 
then surmounted by a light, tasty wire or iron fence, with 
posts made of |xl inch iron bars, edge to the front, firmly 
set into the stone cap with brimstone or other fastening ma- 
terial. Beautiful patterns are easily selected by sending for 
a catalogue, to any good firm that manufactures this class 
of articles. Let the design be simple, neat, and tasty, 
rather than grand and self -imposing, which detracts greatly 
from the appearance of the house, and interrupts the view 
of the lawn. Green or black should be the color of the 
wires. In the former case, use the best green paint, as near 
the color of green grass as possible; and dip the posts in 
coal-tar, which is the best black paint for iron, when used 
boiling hot. Some prefer sanding their fences while the 
paint is still green, and often with good effect. 

Of the cheaper fences, the common perpendicular, curved 
top, wire, picket fence, when well made and in good propor- 
tion, — as much of the pleasing effect and beautiful appear- 
ance depend upon these points, — is among the most substan- 
tial, and is not wanting in ornament. This is made with a 
frame of nice posts, with horizontal rails at top and bottom 

of 2x4 inch stuff", well-planed and notched together as for a 

14 



210 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

wooden picket fence, but using, instead of the latter, rods of 
^ iron, placed three inches apart, passing through the rails, 
and curved above the top rail in such a manner as to again 
enter the rail behind the second or third rod from it success- 
ively. Corner posts are cased, paneled, and capped nicely. 

A cheaper fence still, and one that answers a good pur- 
pose without pretense, is the low, four-board fence now so 
common. No ornamental fence should be over three and 
one-half feet high, nor have the bottom board more than 
two or three inches above the surface of the lawn. A large 
vacant space beneath a fence presents an indefiniteness that 
is far from pretty and very unsatisfactory to behold. 

Some writers lay great stress upon the use of rustic 
fences, and other ornaments. But to us they seem very 
much out of place in ordinary city lots, being only appro- 
priate where the surroundings are wild, rugged, and uneven, 
partaking naturally of the " picturesque in nature." 

The colors of the fences should be the same as that of the 
house, providing this is such as good taste suggests; viz., 
dove, fawn, and other neutral tints, with trimmings of a little 
darker shade, or even pure white in the deep shade of trees, 
unless they be made of iron or partly iron, which should be of 
.green or black, as already recommended. Of course there 
are numerous other appropriate styles of fences which any 
mechanic of sfood taste could devise, but all should aim at 
:simplicity of design and neatness of finish, being made to 
evade, rather than attract notice; which last should always 
be directed toward the central figure, — the house ; or if this 
be rather ordinary, in appearance, then toward its beautiful 
adornments, the creepers with which it should be shrouded, 
and also toward the lawn with its embellishments. 



PaiB; 



i« 



i^og>- 



e|9 







♦ ■♦■♦«♦.♦•-♦-••»•♦■♦■»■ ijjiy-^ 

HOW TO MAKE HOMES BEAUTIFUL. 






(0^ 



.^e^_^- 



-Vg) 




^;:«) 




[311] 



^I^^VERY man's proper mansion-house and home, being 
^j^^ the theater of his hospitality, the seate of self-frui- 
'^f\ tion, the comfortablest part of his own life, the noblest 
•'"'• of his Sonne's inheritance, a kinde of private princedom, 
naye, to the possessors thereof, an epitomie of the whole world, 
may well deserve by these attributes, according to the degree 
of the master, to be decently and delightfully adorned." 

Sir Henry Watton. 



[3131 



CxMJ^P^^RR 1. 



INTERIOR DECORATION. — GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS. — OB- 
JECTS AIMED AT, AND EXTENT OF DECORATION. — HOW 
TO BEAUTIFY WALLS AND CEILINGS. — WALL-PAPERS. — 
HOW TO SELECT THE BEST. 



o-^ic 



I Y interior decoration is meant the addition to the 
interior of our homes, as finished by the builder, 
of such features as will add to the attractiveness 
of the rooms and lend an enchantment not felt 
or attained where habitation is the only object 
desired in a house. 

The addition of furniture of the humblest 
kind to a room relieves the monotony and gives 
it an air of comfort; the presence of other 
articles not strictly in the line of necessities still 
further adds to its comfort. 
But there are other considerations; rooms should not 
only be habitable but cheerful, and she is a wise house- 
wife who recognizes this fact early and sets about obtaining 
the desired result. 

The practice of Home Decoration is growing in favor 
rapidly; and as general culture increases, the demand for 

[213] 




214 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

means of beautifying the home increases, and the ingenuity 
of decorators has been taxed to its utmost to keep pace with 
the demand. 

Walls and ceilings are no longer left in monotonous 
white, where even the presence of a soiled spot affords 
relief for the eye, but are now beautified in many ingenious 
ways to relieve the dreary expanse. 

In these chapters, the author will endeavor to point out 
some of the ways in which Interior Decoration may be 
effected, giving smiple directions therefor, so that by these 
instructions any one can perform most, if not all, the work 
without the aid of skilled labor, with the simple suggestion 
that, where it can be afforded, the assistance of the trades- 
man should be utilized. 

The extent of decoration should harmonize with the sur- 
roundings ; in other words, it should be governed by the uses 
to which the room is to be put, its size, and the amount to 
be expended, so that when done, there will be an air of 
completeness about the room which will render its occu- 
pancy pleasing. And here let it be remarked that Elabora- 
tion is not Decoration; the central idea of Decoration is 
comfort; Elaboration may leave no room for comfort. 

Harmony is another vital consideration in the matter of 
decoration. Especially is this true of colors ; the entire con- 
tents of a room should present such mingling of colors as 
will rest the eye and awaken admiration. 

Many overlook this important factor in the decoration 
of houses, and thereby spoil what might otherwise have been 
a source of admiration and beauty. With this we pass to 
the consideration of 



DECORATING WALLS. 215 

Walls and Ceilings. 

Next to the adornment of our own persons, the back- 
ground or foundation of the rooms which we inhabit is of 
greatest interest to us. Our circumstances determine wheth- 
er these backgrounds, which resolve themselves finally into 
wall-papers, shall be pleasant negative settings to the objects 
with which we fill our homes, or whether these decorations 
shall themselves supply the lack of objects which our taste 
or our purse may have hindered us from collecting. 

Wall-Papeks. 

Like all transient fashions of dress or ornament, where 
the material is comparatively cheap, the patterns or colors 
of wall-paper are constantly changing, and new patterns 
and fashions are brought out every year. The small 
expense attending the decoration of a house enables each 
new occupant to choose the style of his mural adornment at 
frequent intervals. It is our aim here to present certain 
principles according to which a person may be able to select 
such mural and ceiling decorations as may be best adapted 
to the rooms he wishes to adorn. Nothing more keenly 
excites homesickness than the dismantling of a room where 
our life is usually spent. A sense of loneliness is produced 
by the removal of our paintings, book-case, and hanging 
shelves in an ordinary house cleaning, which is only effaced 
by a complete restoration after the cleaning is over. Wall- 
papers add as much or perhaps even more to our pleasure 
and comfort, at home, than pictures or other ornaments. The 
favorite painting may be dispensed with, but the harmony 
or disagreeable tints and figures on the wall-paper become 



216 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

a part of the room, and are not so easily be to disposed of. 
They either possess the richness and repose suitable for a 
pleasing background to furniture, mirrors, and paintings, or 
their glaring, patchy colors kill the effect of the best 
pictures; and to many a nervous invalid they render his 
hours and days miserable, as he counts and combines over 
and over again the meaningless recurrence of a marked 
angle or curve, or the ever-repeated misshaped flower. 

The first principle that should be considered in the 
choice of wall-paper, is that the decoration of the sides of a 
room ought always to be a background more or less rich, 
according to the circumstances, for the usual occupants, fur- 
niture, and ornaments, relieved against it. The choice of a 
pattern then becomes of secondary importance. A pattern 
that would be agreeable to, and suitable for, a large room, 
would not be for a small room, because little groups of 
objects on a wall-paper, covering a limited space, take pleas- 
ant, general figures, which, if they are seen scattered over a 
large surface, make combinations that destroy the effect of 
the most attractive patterns in detail. 

In looking over a vast number of paper-hangings, one is 
apt to be impressed with the fact that the beauty of the 
paper arises much • more from a successful combination of 
colors than from any special loveliness of design. 

Patterns may be observed where, in a small set of 
squares, grave and rich effects are produced by a skillful 
variety of tints of olive and bronze, enlivened here and 
there by small touches of red. In some of these little 
squares are leaves of plants; in others, simple circles; and 
in others, some formal, geometrical patterns. Yet as a 
result of them all, we have a quiet and perhaps brilliant 



SELECTING WALL PAPERS. 217 

shadow, relieving against its rich hues, positive tints in 
clothing, or bright china, or brilliant glass, as well as the 
people and furniture in the room. 

A person is almost always able to find in any stock of 
paper-hangings, a kind of paper so simple in its attempts at 
form and color, that any one is sure to be pleased if he 
covers his walls with it. These papers consist of narrow, 
simple stripes, tiny clover leaves, or it may be little star- 
shaped figures, grey or white, upon a background scarcely 
different from itself. 

A cool and pleasant effect is always given to an apart- 
ment thus covered ; and if rich oil-paintings could not bear 
the contrast with so chilly a color, no headache was ever 
aggravated by it, no ornament ever obscured. A paper so 
neutral is not positively offensive, though it may be of an 
antiquated style. 

Choice of Papees. 

In the choice of papers, a person must k)ok to the adapt- 
ation of tints for different rooms, choosing bright or even 
brilliant shades for the dining-room, bronze shades with 
slight points of gold for a library, slight soft shades of blue 
or light-grey for bed-rooms, and rich cream colors with per- 
haps a little gold for the parlor or drawing-room. The 
patterns or forms best suited to the size and shape of the 
rooms can then be selected. 

Long, perpendicular lines, as it is well known, lead the 
eye up, and give an impression of height to an apartment 
that no other combination can realize. Figures whose pre- 
dominating lines are horizontal lower the appearance of the 
room, while large, detached patterns at regular distances 



218 



OUB HOMES AND TIIEIB ADORNMENTS. 



tire the eye and the mind with the constant tendency to 
count and recombine them; and besides, they compete so 
powerfully with other objects on the walls, such as pictures 
and bric-a-brac, and they disturb the effect of background 
to people or furniture so completely, that this class of forms 
is, perhaps, of all others, the most to be condemned. The 
scintillating effects of small figures render them the most 
suitable for wall-papers. 

Of the numerous changes and improvements in all de- 
partments of art, none is more remarkable than the rapid 
advance made in wall decorations and paper-hangings. 
Wall-papers, with humming-birds and gigantic roses on a 
sea-greenish background, have happily become antiquated, 
and an ugly or too conspicuous wall-paper is now the excep- 
tion, not the rule. Wall-papers as now produced, are the re- 
sult of a comparatively well-educated taste. 




(j;5,H[J^F»a^RR II. 



HINTS ON THE CHOICE OF PAPERS. — WHAT SHADES TO SE- 
LECT. — HARMONY OF COLORS. — SELECTING PAPER FOR 
DIFFERENT ROOMS. — THE DADO. 




oJOio 



E present herewith a few hints to guide our read- 
ers in the choice of wall and ceiling papers for 
different rooms. In the first place, it must be 
borne in mind that the paper must not be the 
most ornamental part of the room, but must 
serve as a background for the general furnishing 
and objects the room contains. 

If the general furnishing of the room is rich 
and elaborate, the paper should correspond; still 
it must not be too conspicuous, but form a rich 
background to harmonize with the various rich 
objects which are presented against it. 

If the furniture is plain, it will be entirely out of place to 
have a rich paper upon which it shall be outlined ; for then the 
richness of the latter will tend to give a cheap appearance 
to all the furnishings of the room. Consequently, care must 
be taken not to give too rich a color to the walls of a room, 
and one not in harmony with all the surroundings. A gold 
paper is not needed to add to the richness of a room. 

[3191 



220 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Another consideration in choosing paper is as to how 
light or dark the room is. If a room has many windows, 
and is therefore well lighted, it will bear a paper with a 
darker background than though it was poorly lighted ; and 
a dark i-oom should, on the other hand, have a light paper. 

Parlor or Drawing-Room Papers. 

For parlor or drawing-room paper, those with light or 
medium backgrounds are regarded in best taste, introducing 
but few colors and those of rich and delicate tints, and dis- 
tributed as evenly as possible, so as to avoid any strong 
contrasts. 

The patterns for parlor papers are subject to frequent 
change, the latest styles running more to curved lines than 
to any distinct patterns. The choice of patterns, however, 
is a matter of taste, and must in most cases be determined 
by the size and general appearance of the room. 

Dados are rarely used upon parlors or drawing-rooms. 
A frieze or border is always used, and these are of widths 
varying from six to twenty inches. The width of the frieze 
upon any room must be determined by the height of the 
room and by other accessories. This is usually of the same 
color as the background of the paper, or, possibly, in most 
cases a little lighter, but seldom of a darker hue. The idea 
of the frieze is to give an appearance of greater height to 
the room, and the frieze and paper should be separated by a 
dark band or a band of gold color. A gilt molding is often 
used at the junction of the wall and ceiling. 

In this connection it might be suggested that a French 
pearl-grey, a warm stone color, a pale buff, or a delicate 
green, are all beautiful for parlor walls. The faintest sus- 



SELECTING WALL-PAPERS. 221 

picion of pink, like the inner lining of some lovely sea-.shells, 
is both pretty and becoming, and will go well with most 
things in the way of furnishing. 

A frieze of flowers and butterflies would not be inhar- 
monious with this tint. Pale lemon-yellow is a pleasing 
tint,^ or a fuller apricot-yellow is very effective, especially 
with black wood-work. 

In speaking of the color it is not meant that the wall- 
paper must be of one single tint, but reference is made to 
the predominating hue, which exists even when pattern and 
coloring are complex. 

The shape of a room has much to do with its general 
effect. A long, narrow room lacks the capabilities of one 
square, or nearly square. A broken line of wall is by no 
means a misfortune, and may be converted into prettier sur- 
prises than could possibly be effected with straight lines. 

The Libkaky. 

For a library, more antique patterns may be used in 
wall-papers, and the prevailing style at present is the use of 
Pompeian colors, of somewhat sombre hiies, but not enough 
so to make the room appear gloomy. 

Dados are used in the library. These are not less than 
26 inches wide, and sometimes as high as four or five feet, 
but oftenest run from 30 to 40 inches. Dados are either of 
the same shade or somewhat darker than the wall-paper, 
but never of a lighter shade. Friezes are also used, which 
are usually of a lighter shade. 

The Bed-Rooms. 

The choice of wall-paper must be determined greatly by 
the amount of light to which they are exposed. If the room 



222 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

be somewhat dark, a paper with a very light background 
should be put on, and generally speaking, light papers should 
be used on bed-rooms, but considerably darker for a well- 
lighted than for a poorly-lighted room. Where there are 
floods of sunshine, French grey, blue, or cream color may be 
used to advantage. 

If friezes or bordering can be found of roses and buds, 
morning glories, daisies, or primroses, according to the paper, 
the effect will be very good. Patterns of flowers are espe- 
cially appropriate for bed-rooms. A cottage bed-room, 
papered with small pink roses on a white satiny ground, is 
exceedingly pretty. 

The Dining-Room. 

The paper for the dining-room should have a background 
of a medium, or from a medium to a dark, color. If a dado 
is used, then rich colorings may predominate in the dado 
while the wall may be left comparatively free of colors and 
quiet in tone. The dado may be from 30 to 40 inches in 
height. 

If no dado is used, the walls themselves may partake of 
bright and cheerful colors, and well-defined patterns. The 
ceiling should be light and delicate, and near the cornice 
one or two lines of harmonious but contrasting color with 
that on the walls. 

One of the handsomest wall coverings for a dining-room, 
where it is at all suitable, is a dado of ri«h maroon, with 
gilt figures, and a gilt and maroon molding in lines ; above 
this, a very pale tint of olive-green with the cornice of 
maroon and gold. 



DECORATION OF CEILINGS. 223 

Ceilings. 

From the nature of ceilings, the manner of finishing them 
is susceptible of a wider range than the side wall affords, 
however ornamental the latter may be. The reason of this 
is apparent when we consider that the ceiling is the only 
portion of an apartment which is not covered up or obscured 
by furniture or ornaments, and that the eye rests upon it 
undisturbed by surrounding objects. The repose which 
comes from a repetition of small figures, and the brilliancy 
of effect of large pictures, balanced by suitable surround- 
ings, are, in various circumstances, proper to ceilings. 

Until lately, good taste had been so little developed that 
it was agreed for dwelling-houses in general that a plain 
white ceiling was the best, and we were content to paper 
our walls and kalsomine or whitewash our ceilings. But we 
are at last beginning to learn that the blank white ceiling 
may be relieved from its cold chilliness by a mixture of buff, or 
greenish, or some other hue, which gives a warmer and more 
agreeable tint to a room than simple whitewash, and it may 
be made even more beautiful by the use of ornamental 
papers. 

The decoration of ceilings with paper has now come into 
general use, and has taken the place of the more expensive 
decorating by fresco painting. The latter method of deco- 
rating ceilings in private residences could only be employed 
by the wealthier classes, and so rarely do we find experienced 
artisans in fresco painting, that the cost of frescoing the ceil- 
ings of a fine residence is so great that but few of even the 
wealthier indulge in it. 

Equally as good and perhaps better effects are now being 



224 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADOBNMENTS. 

produced at from one-half to one-tenth the cost, by the use 
of papers made especially for ceilings in all manner of de- 
signs. They are frequently astronomical patterns, represent- 
ing so far as can be done the canopy of the heavens. 

They are produced with no positive or set patterns, and 
no straight lines. The outer edges consist usually of panel- 
ings and stilings, of which there are many beautiful designs 
in paper, while the astronomical patterns come in between, 
arranged also in panels. 

The former style of having large plaster-of- Paris center- 
pieces and raised cornices along the room has been abandoned. 
Small, tastefully-ornamented center-pieces from ten to eight- 
een inches in diameter are much used, from the center of 
which suspends the chandelier in the middle of the room. 

The effect of decorating ceilings with paper is especially 
beautiful, and when tastily done, it adds very much to the 
beauty of the room. The paper for ceilings has a light back- 
ground, while the edges are usually of a darker shade. The 
patterns of papers for ceilings are quite numerous, and may 
be found at any store where paper-hangings are sold. 

The decoration of ceilings has become a very important 
part of the paper-hanger's work ; and when he has an artis- 
tic eye and fine taste, his work often excels that of the fresco 
painter. 

The Dado. 

The use of the dado in the sitting-room, dining-room, and 
library, answers to some extent the purpose of wainscoting. 
It forms a lower bordering to the paper, and may extend to 
any height desirable, from two feet to five feet, though its 
height is usually from thirty to forty inches. It often forms 




Fig. 38. 

We pi-RSfiTit three designs of Frii-zcs, of the very latest pattern. Fig. 
'S was (les fined by Mr. John Leiquton, F. S. A., London. 




Fig 39- 

The second design is by Mr. Frro Bkok, of New York, the manufac- 
turer of wall-papers. 




Fig. 40. 



And the last, by Mr. Lewis f. TlFK.\^fr, of New York, the distin- 
guished decorative artist and painter. The designs of Messrs. Leighton 
and TiFP\Nr have been kindly furnished the publishers of this work by 
Messrs. Warren, Fui.r.EU & Co., New York, the largest manufacturers of 
wail-papera in the United States. 



THE DADO AND FRIEZE. 225 

a more suitable background for the display of the furniture 
and other furnishings of the room, and affords place for a 
richer and more elaborate display than the wall-papers 
proper. 

The designs upon dados are often very rich and high- 
colored, while the wall-paper above has a quiet tone, and is 
of medium light or dark color according to the size or light 
of the room. The dado is almost always of a darker shade 
than the wall-paper, and patterns of high-colored and large 
flowers or birds are not uncommon. 

The Frieze is the top border next to the ceiling. — It is 
now usually from six to eighteen inches in wddth, the width 
used depending principally upon the height of the room. 
The custom formerly was to have the frieze dai'ker than the 
paper on the main wall, but of late years the frieze is some- 
what lighter than the paper, with a dark line or beading at 
the point where they unite. A gilt molding at the corner 
above the frieze produces a good effect. 

A roll of paper will cover from thirty-six to forty -four 
square feet, and by ascertaining the number of square feet 
on the walls to be covered, and dividing it by thirty-six, the 
number of rolls of paper needed will be ascertained. In 
measuring the walls, of course the windows and doors are 
not to be taken into consideration. 

Paper is sold by the roll, and ranges in price according 
to texture, style, finish, and color, from ten cents upward, 
some of the most elaborate styles selling as high as twenty- 
five dollars per roll. 

15 



(!xMi\F»a"KR 111. 



HOW TO HANG WALL-PAPERS. — SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS FOR 
EVERYBODY. — SIZING THE WALLS. — AMOUNT OF PAPER 
IN A ROLL. — HOW TO CUT AND MATCH THE PAPER. — 
PASTE FOR WALL-PAPER. 




o»{c 



T is usually best to leave the walls or ceilings for 
at least a year before papering them, for the 
^' reason that it requires that time for the plaster to 
become so thoroughly dry as to hold the paper. 
If, however, it is desirable to paper new walls, it 
will be necessary to first put on a thin coat of 
sizing, in order to make a surface to which the 
paper will stick better than to the bare wall. 
This sizing may be made of a weak solution of 
glue, and may be put upon the wall with a 
whitewash brush. However, if the walls are 
green they are apt to draw the colors from the paper, so 
that it is best in all cases not to paper walls for at least 
a year. 

In pi'eparing an old whitewashed or colored wall for 
paper, the wash or color is first wetted well with water, and 
scraped off with an old plane-iron, or any piece of steel 

[2'>G] 



HOW TO HANG WALL-PAPERS. 227 

which has a smooth edge, after which the wall should be 
swept down with a stiff broom, to remove all that the 
scraper may have left, and make an even surface. If there 
is any loose plaster, those parts should be well sized and have 
a piece of strong paper pasted over them, but it is even 
better to have the place re-plastered. Cracks or holes may 
easily be filled with a little putty, and in no case should 
they be left unfilled. If not stopped in any other way, 
slips of paper should be pasted over them, or else the cracks 
will soon show through the outer paper. 

After all this is done, the room may be sized, and the 
sizing will be dry enough in an hour for the papering to 
be commenced. 

If the room has once been papered,, it will be 
necessary to go over the walls and tear off" all the loose 
pieces, especially at the top and bottom, corners and edges. 
If the bare wall is exposed by the tearing ofi", these spots 
should be sized. After all these preparations are made, the 
wall is ready to receive the paper, and the hanging may 
proceed. 

Wall-paper comes in rolls, eight yards in length, and 
from eighteen to twenty-two inches in width. A margin runs 
along each side of the paper usually from one-fourth to 
three-fourths of an inch wide, and before hanging the paper 
the margin on one of these edges must be trimmed close to 
the pattern printed on the paper. To do this, unroll a yard or 
two of one of the pieces of paper and with a pair of scissors 
trim off" the edge, rolling up the paper again as it is trimmed. 

It is usual to begin papering from one of the main 
windows in the room, and the edges of the paper when bung 
shall be toward that window, so that it will be necessary to 



228 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

trim off the edge of the paper nearest to the window. It 
is necessary to trim off but one edge, as the paper when 
put on the wall laps over the margin of the other edge in 
order to match the pattern. 

When the edge is trimmed, cut off a length about the 
height of the room from the ceiling to the base-board, or if a 
dado is to be used, so that it will come an inch or two below 
the top line of the dado. The second length must be cut ^o 
that the pattern will match exactly with the piece first cut, 
and so on. 

If desired, as many lengths may be cut at once as will 
be necessary to cover the room, or each piece may be cut as 
it is needed. 

The paste having been prepared beforehand, a thin layer 
may be spread over the back of the first piece, fold the piece 
up so as to handle it easily, and having brought the top to 
meet the ceiling, see that the length hangs straight, trying 
it, if necessary, by a plumb-line ; then, after having fastened 
the top to the wall, take it by the lower end, draw it away 
from the wall, being careful not to loosen it from the wall 
at the top, and let it fall back a.nd it will drop into its place 
without a wrinkle. 

Now with a soft clean cloth begin at the top and press 
the paper to the wall all down the center to the bottom. 
Then beginning at the top, again press it from th(.^ center to 
each side, alternately, regularly downward. If this opera- 
tion be properly done, the length will be perfectly close to 
the wall, and smooth in every part. 

It is not to be pressed heavily; but the cloth, being taken 
in the hand as a round, loose lump, must be moved quickly 
over the surface — dab — dab — dab — with a light, clean touch, 



HOW TO HANG WALL-PAPERS. 229 

otherwise some of the colors may be apt to smear. Last of 
all, mark with the point of the scissors where the paper 
meets the baseboard, cut off all that is over, and press the 
end carefully into its place. 

Proceed with the second length in the same way, bring- 
ing the trimmed-ofF edge to meet the pattern of the first one, 
and taking care that no gap is left between. Neglect of 
these precautions will convert a handsome paper into a sight 
that will be a constant eye-sore. Try the lengths frequently 
with the plumb-line to avoid the chance of getting out of 
upright. 

How TO Make Paste. 

Paste is best made with old flour, water, and a little size 
or glue; alum is also added, to make it spread more freely 
without losing any of its tenacity or sticking quality. It 
should be brought to a slow boil and made rather thicker 
than ordinary gruel, and then allowed to get cool before 
using. It should be laid on the paper smoothly and equally, 
with a good brush, not putting on too much, or it will squeeze 
out at the edges. Where this takes place it must be renewed 
with a clean damp sponge. Any accidental smeare of paste 
may be removed in this way, if taken off lightly as soon as 
they are made. 




(!lMAF^a"E.R T^. 



DECORATIVE ART NEEDLE-WORK. 

EECENT IMPROVEMENTS IN NEEDLE- WORK. — USEFULNESS NOW 
A PROMINENT FEATURE. — LIST AND DESCRIPTION OF 
MATERIALS. — PRICES. — BEAD WORK. 




oJ«c 



|T|"pO department of home ornamentation offers a 
wider range than Needle- Work. Each year tlie 
desire to increase the attractions of our homes, 
becomes greater. In many large cities societies 
of Decorative Art have been teaching ladies 
what real ornamentation means, and great prog- 
ress has been made, as the demand for specimens 
and designs for needle- work and embroidery fully 
attest. It is needless to say that the embroideiy 
of to-day is vastly superior to that of a few years 
ago, — that the glaring, unserviceable ornamen- 
tation of the past has given place to decoration of a more 
refined character, in which cultivated taste displays itself, 
while usefulness is not overlooked. 

The real secret of beauty in home decoration does not 
depend so much upon the richness of materials used as upon 
their arrangement with reference to the principles of har- 
mony and simplicity. 
[230] 



MATERIALS FOR EMBROIDERY. 231 

The cardinal principles in work of this character should 
be usefulness and ornamentation combined. 

Materials. 

The materials used as foundation work for embroidery- 
are varied, new ones being brought out every year; but 
the subjoined list will be found serviceable in the selection 
of such as are most popular and least changeable. 

Materials of inferior quality should never be chosen. 
Labor expended on them never pays. The fabrics, of what- 
ever material, should be firm, well woven, and devoid of 
irregularities. Inexpensive stuffs, when suitably treated 
and used for appropriate purposes, are just as desirable as 
more costly ones. 

Flax Cloth. — Unbleached brown linen is often used for 
chair covers, doylies, etc. 

Canton Flannel, — Now known as Fashion Drapery, is 
used very much. It is double width, and may be found in 
a variety of shades. 

Moniie Cloth — Is fifty inches wide, made of both cotton 
and wool, and varies from one to three dollars per yard. 

Upholstery Felts — Are now much used instead of cloth 
for curtains, table-covers, lambrequins, portieres, etc. It is 
easy to work upon, and is made in a variety of beautiful 
shades, presenting the appearance of fine cloth at much 
less cost. Two yards wide, one dollar and a half per yard. 

Bolton Sheeting — Is of a beautiful cream color, and 
improves with washing. It is much used in embroidery, and 
comes in very wide widths at one dollar per yard. 

Plushes— Are costly materials. Cardinal, old gold, and 
peacock blue are the standard colors of this material ; but a 
variety of other tints can be found. A beautiful new style is 



232 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Ombree plush, shaded gradually from one side of the piece to 
the other, producing a charming effect in screens, panels, or 
anything which is of sufficient size to show the shading. 
Single width is four dollars and a half per yard, and up- 
ward. 

Satin — Is furnished in a variety of beautiful colors, and 
is of great width, selling at six dollars and fifty cents per 
yard. Embroidery satin is known as Furniture Satin. 

Crewels — Are made in all desirable tints. Fast colors, 
however, are found only in the best quality of crewels. 
These can be cleaned without fading, and are therefore espe- 
cially for- working on linen and flannel. In using crewel, 
it should be cut into short lengths, as long needlefuls pull 
the design out of shape. 

Arasene — Is a kind of chenille, rich in appearance, and 
producing good effects. The work is done in the same way 
as with crewel, except that after working, the outlines are 
traced over with tinsel or gold cord, which adds greatly to 
the clearness and beauty of the design. 

Embroidery Silks — Include several kinds; as, bobbin 
silk, purse silk, filoselle, all differing in quality and texture, 
— bobbin silk being used for satin, silk, or any fine material. 
Filoselle is manufactured of inferior silks, and hence costs 
less than purse and bobbin silk. 

Beads. — Cut steel beads, colored with transparent lac- 
quers, allowing the metallic luster of the beads to show 
through, are one of the latest novelties in needle-work. A 
silk or linen thread is used to string them on, as many beads 
being strung on at each stitch as are necessary to give it the 
desired length. As they are made of many colors, the work 
can be very accurately shaded, the same stitch showing 
several shades. 



(J^]^_^p,/J^^^ ^^ 



EMBROIDERY STITCHES. — DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST STEM 
STITCH. — BLANKET STITCH. — CHAIN STITCHES. — HER- 
RING-BONE, BUTTON HOLE, AND SATIN STITCH. — KEN- 
SINGTON OUTLINE. — JANINA. — BLANKET.— DESIGN FOR 
BORDERS AND CENTERS. — THE NEW PLUSH STITCH. 



o>»;o 



HE best authorities agree that for embroidery the 
simpler and fewer the stitches the better. Of 
course, the number and character of the stitches 
depend upon the design to be made, some designs 
being so elaborate as to require no small amount 
of work. 

Stem or Tent Stitch, — Which is the simplest 
stitch for beginners, consists of a single long 
stitch taken forward, followed by a shorter one 
backward, thus alternating, a long one forward 
and a short one backward, only the long stitch 
showing in the work. 

Blanket Stitch — Is exactly like the ordinary 
button-hole stitch, and is used 
in edging materials. A very 






Borders in Button-hole. Ennbossed Button-hole, or Blanket 

pretty effect is made by varying the length of the stitches, 
or sloping them in many directions. [333] 



234 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 




Chain Stitch. 

Tivisted Chain Stitch. 
lar to the foregoing, the 
needle, however, being 
set to the left instead of 
into the preceding stitch. 
This stitch can be varied 
by setting the needle far- 
ther to the left, and ex- 
tending its length, when 
we have what is called 
the Vine Chain Stitch. 



Chain Stitch. — This 
old-fashioned stitch is 
quite popular for fasten- 
ing down the edges of ap- 
plique work, embroider- 
ing mats, etc. Our il- 
lustration sufficiently ex- 
plains the method of 
making the stitch. 

This is made in a manner simi- 




Twisted Chain Stitch. 



Satin Stitch. — Our illustration of this stitch gives a very 

good idea of the way to 
work it. It is very pop- 
ular, and suitable for 
work with flosses, em- 
broidery silks, zephyrs, 
and crewels. The de- 
sign is stamped on the 
goods, and the whole 
filled in well with .silk or 
worsted, before the real 
embroidery is begun. 
Care must be taken to 
have the edges even. 
It is really an over-and- 
over stitch, the work ap- 
pearing nearly alike on 
Satin Stitch. both sides. 




HERRING-BONE STITCH. 



•235 



Knot Stitch. — This stitch 
is useful in making the center 
q£ flowers and the ends of sta- 
mens. The needle is brought 
ttiTOUgh, and the floss wound 
about it one or more times, 
•wiien it is again thrust through 
the material very near where it 
was bc^ught up. 




Herring-bone Stitch. 



Herring-Bone Stitch.— Thif> is a very popular stitch, as 
it makes a good appearance, and is adapted to a wide range 

of work. It is es- 
pecially appropriate 
for joining- seams, 
taking the place of 
the vinsightly ridge 
made by a fell. The 
two illustrationsgi ve 
a clear idea of the 
method of making 
this stitch, the larger 
showing one varia- 
tion for ornamental 
effect. 




Herring-bone Stitch. 



Design for a 
Border. — The 
design for a cor- 
ner will assist 
in understand- 
ing this. The 
rings and the 
diamonds are 
made of three 
threads of dif- 
ferent shades, 
while the an- 
gles are con- 
cealed by gold- 
colored silk. 



<5>^"5^'!^'"'— «r^!«"!S*t'^'"»^V1^^>«^•<S■«'•••T;'S;%?f^'!S9^5«!^«S•5S"5'»S«3S?S^9( 




Design for a Border, 



236 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



button-holed along the inside next to the inner thread. The 
stars in the center are made of the several shades used in 
working the rings. 

Kensington Out- 
line Stitch.- — -This is 
now the stitch for em- 
broidery work. The 
stem stitch is in re- 
ality the same, only 
the unbroken outline 
of the design is made 
with now and then a 
stroke representing 
the veins of leaves 
and folds of drapery. 
Satin is the favorite 
goods for this stitch, 
and foliage, butter- 
flies, and animals are 
favorite designs. 




Kensington Outline Stitch. 



Janina Stitch. 
general outline, 
but the pattern 
is not filled in 
before begin- 
ning to em- 
broider, and the 
work shows 
only on one 
side, excepting 
where the short 
back stitch oc- 
curs along the 
outline. The 
needle should be 
set at the next 
to the last stitch, 
as shown in the 



-This resembles the satin stitch in its 




Janina Stitch. 



DESIGN FOE A COENEB. 



tm 



cut. It is suitable for any purpose where a surface stitch 
is required, such as table covers and toilet articles. 

Basket Stitch.-The 
engraving presents 
the method of mak- 
ing this stitch veiy 
clearly. Begin the 
work at the bottom, 
and work from you. 
It is a very fine stitch 
for borders and the 
like. 




Basket Stitch. 



;^iPii 



Feather Stitch. 



Feather Stitch. — The 
cut very clearly illustrates 
the method of working one 
variety of feather stitch. 
It is worked in two colors, 
and the efi'ect is very pretty 
indeed. 



Design for a 
Corner or Center- 
piece. — This de- 
sign may be 
worked in a cor- 
ner, or it may be 
one-fourth of a 
center-piece. The 
zig-zag edges can 
be made of three 
shades of red, 
the darkest at the 
inner edge. The 
outer points to be 
crossed with yel- 
low, and the in- 
ner with four 
shades of blue. 




Design for a Corner. 



238 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

From each of the inner points, two shades of blue and one 
of gold color, are carried to a point. The balance of the de- 
sign can be worked from the engraving. Crewels or silks 
may be used, or a combination of both will look better. 

A Neiv Stitch. — The most decided novelty in art em- 
broidery, and one that has a permanent value, is the intro- 
duction of the plush stitch. By its use sumac, cockscomb, 
golden rod, love lies bleeding, princess feather, and similar 
flowers, which were previously very imperfectly represented 
by a bunch of French knots, are closely imitated in texture 
as well as coloring. 

To make it, first fill in the flower with large French 
knots of the prevailing color ; then (using button-hole twist) 
bring the needle up between the knots, lay a doubled strand 
of filling silk on the face of the work against the needle; 
.take the needle down about in the same place it came up, 
but from the other side of the filling silk, so that when 
drawn down the stitch has caught the filling silk about a 
quarter of an inch from its end ; draw the stitch down 
tightly, which will cause the ends of the filling silk to 
spring straight up ; clip them off" with a very sharp pair of 
scissors. This completes one stitch. Repeat for as many 
stitches as are required to cover, or nearly cover, the knots. 

It is not easily described, but with a little practice is 
easily and rapidly done ; and with taste and j udgment in the 
clipping and in the number of stitches used, so as to partly, 
"but not completely, cover the background of knots, charm- 
ingly realistic effects are produced. 

In the cockscomb, for instance, the upper part, or comb, 
is a rich, velvety crimson. This should be worked with the 
stitches very close, and clipped quite long, the convolutions 
of the comb being represented by using three shades of crim- 



DESIGN FOB BANNER SCREEN. 239 

son. As each stitch may be made different, the shading can 
be perfectly done. 

The lower part, from the stem up to the comb, shows 
the green seeds, with a thin sprinkling of the velvety down. 

This is imitated by making the knots of dead green crewel 
and a few plush stitches interspersed, using a single thread 




Fig. 41. 

of the floss made of filaments of red and green. Clip these 
a little closer than in the comb, and use more red toward 
the comb. This, when skillfully done, imitates the flower 
beautifully and faithfully, in striking contrast to the hard, 



240 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

knotted abominations of most of the " Art Schools." It 
only need be seen to be appreciated. 

Fig. 41 presents a very pretty design for a banner 
screen in which the cockscomb is treated in the plush stitch. 

Designs and Stamping. 

The question of making original designs for embroidery, 
while of importance, is too difficult for amateurs. Those 
who are naturally ingenious will be able to construct their 
own designs, or modify those already made to suit their own 
convenience. 

The method of getting the design stamped depends upon 
the nature and color of the material. For light material, 
the design may be first drawn or traced upon tissue-paper; 
next place a sheet of carbonized paper under the tissue- 
paper and upon the material, and go over the design with a 
sharp pencil or a dull needle, when it will be found trans- 
ferred to the fabric in minute dots of black. If carbonized 
paper is not to be had, make it, by slightly oiling one side 
of thick tissue-paper and scraping fine pencil dust upon the 
oiled surface, being careful to remove all the surplus of pen- 
cil dust with a soft rag. 

Where the design is to be transferred to a dark material, 
it must be done by pouncing. First draw the design upon 
thick paper, and then prick the outlines through the paper 
with a pin or needle, or if it be large, on a sewing-machine 
with an unthreaded needle; now place the design, face 
downward, and go over it with a pounce bag made of mus- 
lin and filled with starch, stamping powder, or pipe-clay 
I^owdered. Remove the pattern and touch up the design 
with a solution of pipe-clay or other coloring matter not in- 
j urious to the fabric. 



DESIGNS AND. STAMPING. 241 

In all cases, however, where it is practicable, the stamp- 
ing should be done by one who knows how, thus avoid- 
ing the annoyance and danger of damaging the material. 

Applique, or Cat- Work, — Has been divided into two 
kinds, in-laid and on-laid. Inlaid work consists in cut- 
ting the same pattern from two materials and fitting one 
into the other, much after the fashion of inlaid scroll-saw 
work, and fastening the inlaid part with embroidery silk. 
Onlaid work differs from the foregoing in this particular: 
The pattern is cut out from several stuffs, and then fastened 
upon another material with paste, after which the edges are 
sewed down with silk. 

To those unacquainted with the work, it may be neces- 
sary to explain that the pattern, as prepared, is basted on 
the foundation to which it is to be applied, and all the edges 
of the colored felt pieces are caught down in button-hole or 
couching stitch with filling floss or embroidery silks of suit- 
able shades. Any lines inside the figures, such as the veins 
of leaves, are worked in stem stitch ; and small leaves, stems, 
etc., outside the figures, are worked in embroidery stitches or 
herring-bone stitch. The paper of the pattern is then torn 
away, which is facilitated by slightly moistening it, and the 
design remains on the foundation. The work is rapidly and 
easily done, and when the newer and more tasty designs are 
used, the effect is remarkably good. 

Draiun Work — Consists in drawing out the threads of 
linen and working in patterns with fancy stitches. It is 
very popular, and elaborate designs are now made by this 
method, although the work is very trying to the eyes. 

Embroidery Frames — Are made something after the 
fashion of quilting frames. Care must be taken to stretch 
the material firmly and evenly. 

16 



Cmaftrr ^1. 



PRACTICAL DESIGNS, — EMBROIDERY PATTERNS. — AN ELEGANT 
PINCUSHION. — SILK COUNTERPANE AND COVER. — TAT- 
TED DOYLEY. — DESIGN FOR LINEN EMBROIDERY. 




MBROIDERY PATTERNS.— The two borders, 
Figs. 42 and 43, will be suitable for orua- 
menting children's frocks, aprons, etc. They 
may be worked with silk, crewel, or cotton, 
according to the material. Holland or alpaca 
aprons look well with borders of this kind, 
worked with andalusian or Shetland wool. 

Embroidered Pincushion. 

The ornamental pincushion, Fig. 44, is made on a 
circular cushion six inches in diameter, the bottom 
being of thick pasteboard, the sides of strong calico, and the 
stuffing of bran. Cover the bottom with calico, sew a strip 
of calico six inches wide round the edge, draw up the other 
side of the calico strip so as to hold the bran, and stitch a 
small round piece of calico over the gathers. Then take 
two strips of blue silk, two inches wide, and pinked on one 
side; one strip must be fifty-two, and the other thirty-six 

[242] 



EMBROIDERY PATTERNS. 



243 




oO©, 




"*OttO 



<an»o^ 



Fig- 43- 



Fig. 42. 



244 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



inches long; plait up the long strip into sixteen double 
plaits, the other strip into eight plaits, and sew them on the 
the cushion according to illustration. Now cut out the star- 
shaped figure in white cloth, pinking out the edges, and em- 




Fig. 44. 



broider the design with colored braid and silk, and fasten 
it to the top of the cushion, so that the points of the star tit 
in between the plaits of the silk. 

Silk Counterpanes. 

Fig. 45 shows a quilted counterpane witli the cover 
trimmed with neat embroidery. The inside may be of any 
desired color of silk, quilted in a variety of designs. 

Fig. 46 is another style of cover, the edges being cut to 
form little tabs which button over the quilt. The space bo- 



SILK COUNTERPANES. 



245 









^ ~; 






■itr 



>* 



F'g- 45- 







Fig. 46 



aiG 



UR HOMES AFD THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



tween the tabs may be filled with lace plaited, as in the cut, 
or with embroidery. 




Fig. 47 
Tatted Doyley. 

The tatted doyley shown in our illustration, Fig. 47, is so 
distinctly marked that it does not need an explanation to those 
skilled in the use of the shuttle. The tatting, which is com- 
Doned of double and p^arl .'^titches, should be worked as seen 



LINEN EMBROIDERY. 



247 



in the illustration, with No. 6 cotton, and the spider's web 
in No. 16. The design would be equally suitable for a 
baby's cap crown, or it might be used for a flower 
stand mat. 




Linen Embroidery. 

Fig. 48 is an illustration of a tidy made of the new style 
of embroidery on linen crash. Old ladies whose sight is fail- 
ing will find this very agreeable work. The stars should be 
worked in two shades of bright zephyr, while the division 
lines between the figures should be made of narrow black 
velvet, crossed with " herring-bone " stitch in gold-colored 



248 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



silk. Almost all damask toweling is suitable for this work, 
but the unbleached gray and buff, covered with stars, 
diamonds, or butterflies, will be found most satisfactory. 
Shaker rocking-chairs and hassocks cushioned with this em- 
broidery are quite fashionable and are really very handsome. 




t 

I 

1 




If 

f 

I 



Fig. 49- 






G.mjvF»a-EiR Wfl 



SOME ELEGANT DESIGNS. — EMBROIDERED ROCKING-CHAIR 
COVER. — A WORK-APRON. — DESIGNS FOR ELEGANT GLASS 
MIRRORS. — NEW STYLE OF SPLASHER. — BEAD EMBROID- 
ERED NEWS RACK. — HANDSOME TABLE COVER. — A PIANO 
SCARF IN PLUSH APPLIQUE WORK. 




o»ic 



! LEGANT ROCKING-CHAIR COVER. — The very ele- 
gant rocking-chair shown in Fig. 49 is uphol- 
stered in hair and covered with silk plush of the 
peculiar shade called " drakesneck," a sort of 
bluish-green of a deep, rich shade, which forms a 
most exquisite background for the sprays of wild 
rose so perfectly embroidered on the seat and 
back in silk filoselle, and the leaves having that 
tinge of brown and red mingled with dull green 
so often seen in the growing bush. The arms 
and front of the chair are finished with silk gimp 
to match, and silk fringe of the same shade as the plush, re- 
lieved by pink silk double ruffs at intervals. The back is 
covered with pink plush, and the whole forms a most beau- 
tiful chair and one that will not be ruined by reasonable 
use. 

[249] . 



250 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



A Pretty Work-Apron. 

A pretty little work-apron is shown in Fig. 50, made of 
a yard of pongee silk, 18 inches wide, embroidered in etching 
silk, the desio-n beinef that old conundrum of 

' ' How doth the little busy bee 
Improve each shining honr?" 




f-ig. 50. 

Another design often used instead, represents a little girl 
plucking the petals of a daisy, with the words 

" I do n't care what the daisies say, 
I know I'll be married some fine day. " 

After the embroidery is done, a hem is turned all around 
and neatly hemstitched, the lower end turned up to form a 
pocket, and the apron finished with bows of silk ribbon. 



DESIGN FOB HAIR RECEIVER. 



251 



They will wash perfectly, and make charming presents 
for girls. 




Fig- 5 • 

Hair Receiver. 

Fig. 51 is a novel and pretty hair and hair-pin receiver, 
made of No. 12 satin ribbon of two colors interwoven in a 



252 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

sort of checker-board pattern, as seen in the engraving. A 
piece of card-board in the center forms a partition, on one 
side of which is a crocheted cushion of split zephyr to receive 
the hair-pins, the other side being left as a hair receiver. 
The whole ia bound with satin and finished at the upper 
edge with quilled ribbon, as seen in the illustration. The 
fringe seen just below the quilled ribbon is made by fringing 
about two inches of the ends of the ribbons. 

Glass Mirroks. 

An elegant addition to almost any room is one of the 
beveled glass mirrors shown in Figs. 52 and 53. The frame 
is of pine or whitewood and covered with silk plush embroid- 
ered with arasene or with silk floss, arasene being much the 
best as the colors are better and the general effect more rich. 
The cuts show two very diflferent designs, — one a vine of 
wild clematis, and the other a spray of dogwood ; the former 
worked on deep Indian-red plush, and the latter on a very 
dark olive-green. They can be made of various sizes, but 
10x10 or 12x12 for the glass is generally preferred. They 
are quite diflferent in appearance from the painted frames so 
abundant in the stores, and which are usually very poor 
specimens of amateur art. 

A New Style Splasher. 

Splashers are not very new, but the one shown in Fig. 54 
is so far superior to the ordinary splasher as to merit descrip- 
tion. It is made expressly for the purpose, being woven 
with a band of open-work all around and a sewed fringe on 
the four sides. The material is linen momie cloth. Along 
the upper edge at the back, five loops of tape are sewed, 




Fig. 52. 




Fig. 53- 




Fig- 55- 



DESIGN FOB SPLASHER. 



253 



through which a brass or wooden rod is passed and secured 
to the wall by brass screw-eyes. One end of the rod is 
made to slip off so that the splasher is easily removed to be 




Fig- 54- 



washed, and replaced again without the usual damage to the 
wall by tacking. The designs on- them are also new and 
pretty. 

A News Rack. 

Fig. 55 is a news rack in bead embroidery. The frame 
is of gilded wood, and the foundation for the embroidery is 
of deep maroon silk plush. The design of maple leaves is 
embroidered in metal beads in various shades of olive-green 
and brown, red-bi'own and yellow. The work is done very 
much the same as crewel work, a silk thread being used, 
and the beads strung on four or five at a time to form a long 
or short stitch and of such colors as required. The beads can 
be procured of every color. 



254 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Theee-Cornered Table. 

Fig. 56 represents a three-cornered table, the frame of 
which is of gilded wood. The top is covered with shaded 
blue plush, ornamented with a spray of wild clematis, em- 
broidered in beads, the flowers in steel, and the leaves in 
cut-gold. The sides are draped with shaded blue plush, 




Fig. 56. 

caught up in the center of each side by a large silk pompon 
from which depend soft silk ball tassels. Long " horse-tail " 
tassels of twisted silk of a Terra Cotta shade, are hung at 
each corner. A lar^e bow of shaded satin ribbon, tied taste- 
fully at one corner where the flower stems begin, completes 
this very pretty table. 



DESIGN FOR PIANO SCARF. 255 

Applique Piano Scarf. 

Fig. 57 is a piano scarf for an upright in the new Mo- 
saic embroidery, or plush appHque work. The ground is of 
lava gray plush and the design of autumn leaves is cut out 
of a variety of shades of plush, each half leaf being a sepa- 
rate piece and different shade. The pieces of plush are first 
pasted down on a foundation of crinoline, and when dry, 
cut out neatly with very sharp scissors and gummed to the 
plush foundation. The edges are then sewed down firmly 
with silk of the same shades as the plushes. 

The neglect of this sewing down is what has caused 
many to regard Mosaic work as lacking in durability ; but 
if the edges are well sewed down they will not fray or 
ravel out. After sewing down, the edges are concealed by 
a gold or tinsel cord caught down in couching stitches. 
A few stitches of chenille of darker shade than the plush 
it is used on, are added to show the veining of the leaves. 
A very pretty way of adjusting the scarf is to bring up 
the embroidered end, throwing it over from the back, and 
letting it hang over the front of the piano. 

The v/ork is very easily and quickly done with the ex- 
ception of the preparation of the pattern, which requires 
a variety of odd shades of plush not easily obtained by the 
amateur, and without which the work loses much of its 
beauty. The patterns, however, can be procured already 
pi-epared on crinoline at any of the first-class fancy-work 
establishments in most of the large cities. They can be 
easily transferred to any foundation by moistening the 
crinoline to soften the gum. 

A handsome table scarf in " darned work " is shown in 



256 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 




Fig- 57- 



DESIGN FOE TABLE SCARF. 



257 



Fig. 58. The body of the scarf is of ecru plush. The orna- 
mentation is of alternate squares of ecru satin, darned in a 
geometric pattern in colored embroidery silk in a variety of 




Fig. 58. 



stitches, and squares of old blue plush, with a small spray 

embroidered in gold and steel beads. The ends are finished 

with silk fringe and four large tassels to correspond with the 

satin and plush. 

17 



258 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



It is impossible in an engraving to do justice to this 
work, the rich, deep tints of which plush alone is capable 
of exhibiting, being quite lost when represented by printer's 
ink. Some of the specimens are exquisite, and by many 
would be preferred to the most elaborate embroidery. 




(!xH[J^F^a"RR ^Iff. 



HANGINGS FOR DOORS, HALLS, AND WINDOWS, — HOW TO 
MAKE THEM, AND OF WHAT TO MAKE THEM. — ELEGANT 
EFFECTS AT SMALL COST. — HOW TO USE THE ODDS AND 
ENDS IN RENDERING THE HOUSE MORE BEAUTIFUL. — 
COST OF MATERIALS. 




o>»Jo 



lORTIERES. — A beautiful room is far more 
beautiful when there is no square means of egress 
suggesting the unpleasant idea of departure. 
Where, however, the means are limited, one 
pretty portiere covering, or replacing an ugly 
door, or curtaitimg an outside one, gives an air 
of taste and elegance. Midway in a hall, as in 
the case of an outer door, drafts are prevented 
by a heavy fall of drapery. 

They should not repeat the curtains of the 
room, but represent a separate idea, though 
in harmony with the room. They are frequently made 
<loub]e to correspond with rooms of different colors. 

At the end of a long room in a friend's house there was 
a door with glass at the top, useful in dark days but making 
an ugly cross light with the windows of the room. The 

[259] 



260 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

lady of the house dreamed of rich stuffs while she pieced, 
out of olive cotton flannel, four bands of cretonne in a flower 
pattern, two narrow and two wide, and a piece of worsted 
goods flowered on the right side but striped on the wrong, 
none of it new, — a portiere which has been taken for some- 
thing rich and strange, and much admired. 

The lining was some old calico cut a little wider than 
the door. At the bottom was a horizontal strip of the olive 
cotton flannel, then a wide band of cretonne, then the striped 
(wrong side) goods placed perpendicularly, then a narrow 
band of cretonne, then the center of olive cotton flannel 
with the stripes repeated toward the top. 

Old Blue Blankets. 

Another friend had a bare, cheap, new cottage. Money 
was not abundant. Old grandmother-woven indigo-blue 
woolen blankets were. She began sewing in little figures, 
— stars, crescents, and odd stitches in colored silks, — and 
the woolen blanket became a gorgeous fabric. It was hung 
with wooden rings on a length of gilded gas pipe midway 
of the bare hall, and your first impressions on entering were 
of Eastern richness. The double blanket was more than 
enough (heavy materials must hang nearly plain), and a 
piano cover and traveling bag came out of the pieces. The 
embroidery was the woi'k of time, but it was also a work of 
delight. 

Portiere of Chinese Embroidery. 

On the contrary, a New York friend, with the large 
opportunities and splendid economy of rich people, bought, 
at one quarter the original price, four Chinese embroidered 



SILK RAO AND INGRAIN CARPETS. 2G1 

dress patterns, giving "only one hundred dollars for them." 
With great skill she combined them in one rich portiere for a 
large double door. 

Silk Rag Caepet. 

Portieres, as well as curtains, have been made of silk rag 
carpets, — yes, nothing more or less ! Old silks, even soiled 
and faded, are cut in strips as for carpet, and either woven 
with cotton warp, or better still, knitted upon fine iviyry 
needles in stripes and tastefully joined together. If one can 
be content to use only things otherwise worthless, this may 
be desirable; but the temptation is great to cut up what 
might be turned te better account. 

• Ingrain Carpet. 

Another portiere we have seen is a great and lasting 
success, for it is of solid wool which in fifty years will still 
be firm of texture and pleasing in color. It is fine ingrain 
carpet of beautiful olive color, quite plain. It can be bought 
in a great variety of colors, but olive and crimson have the 
advantage of fading handsomely. 

Down one side of each breadth (there were four, for it 
covered the space between rooms where there had been 
double doors) was worked in Germantown wool, — a pattern 
which was adopted from a Turkish rug. The pattern was 
outlined in black and filled in with red, pale blue, white, 
and a little gold-colored filoselle. The effect was so good and 
the material so durable that a great comfortable sofa with 
three cushions received a new dress of the same, and the 
children play on the tough material unreproved. 

Let me here suggest that all decoration in homes where 



262 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

there are children to be thought of (alas ! for those homes 
where there are none) should be of firm, excellent, unfading 
quality in accordance with the loving spirit of Mary, and 
not cultivating the anxious one of her sister. The reward, 
as in all right-doing, will be greater than you expect, for 
your decoration will be better and in nobler taste. 

The Dove Portieee. 

Still another portiere. The idea came from nature's 
enchanting harmony in an ordinary pigeon's colors, — one of 
the dove-tinted, blue-green sort. The material to harmonize 
with a light and "smiling" drawing-room was of heavy, 
all-wool material, known as diagonal-cloth in a soft dove 
color. It was lined with pale pink silesia. A border of 
" crazy quilt " (see discription of crazy or Japanese quilt 
under chapter on screens) done in blue, green, and dove 
colors, and faint gleams of rose, was laid on at top and 
bottom. 

Velveteen. 

Velveteen is a desirable material for either portieres or 
curtains. Plush is the richest material in use. In one 
drawing-room we have seen the wide doors from the hall 
and library filled by portieres of plush, peacock-blue on one 
side and crimson on the other, without decoration. The 
effect was very rich, but one's limitations are often sugges- 
tive, and where there are limitations there are apt to be 
more ideas, and the charm of an idea wrought into form is 
always greater than the mere impression of richness. 

Smyrna Blankets, Prayer Carpets. 

Very odd portieres are brought home by travelers from 
the East, and imported in great quantities. Stripes of odd 



CURTAINS AND PRICES. 263 

woolen stuff, loosely caught together by coarse woolen cord, 
and embroidered evidently by hand, odd combinations of red, 
black, and white can be seen in fashionable houses. " Prayer 
Carpets," not being needed, are hung up on doors or walls. 

Curtains. 

In furnishing throughout, the curtains and wall-paper 
should be bought first, and the carpet selected as a quiet ac- 
cessory. In no case should the floor be very light or brill- 
iant. 

Prices of IVIaterial. 

The price of material does not vary greatly from time to 
time. The subjoined prices will be found nearly correct for 
a long time to come : — 

Cotton momie-cloth, 50 in. wide, in all colors, 

per yd $1.10 

Woolen momie-cloth, per yd 3.00 

Felting, 2 yds. wide, per yd 1.50 

Bolton sheeting, imported from England, per yd. 1.00 

Stamped velveteen, per yd $1.25-2.00 

Cotton flannel or " fashion drapery," every variety 

of color, per yd 0. 90 

This is double width, and alike on both sides so that no 
lining is needed. 

Crash is much used. It is woven by Russian peasants, 
is of varying width, and in lengths from five to ten yards. 
Care should be taken to select handsome, even pieces. The 
widths can be loosely overhanded together, and bands of 
trimming laid on, or braid, or any stripe of decoration can 



264 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

be inserted between the widths. A beautiful decoration is 
a band of Japanese silk piecework in pretty colors, put on 
at top and bottom. 

Unbleached linen and cotton make pretty curtains. 
The former may be beautifully worked in crewels, either 
over the entire curtain, or a band laid on. The latter are 
very pretty with a band of cretonne as trimming, or with 
one of red and one of blue, or one of pink and one of blue, 
and a gay effect is produced. 

SCAKFS AND BoOK-CaSE CuRTAINS. 

In a friend's house we have seen an old and awkward 
book-case converted into two pretty modern ones by saw- 
ing the high one in two, and adding, in one case a cornice, 
in the other a base. Some gold-colored leather was cut in 
strips, pinked, and tacked with pretty tacks on each shelf, so 
that much dust was kept from the books. She then added 
a scarf of old-gold satin, embroidered with a branch of dog- 
wood in Kensington stitch, with a band of plush and a 
frinsre as finish. Thrown over the middle of the book-case, 
it made a graceful decoration, and afforded a pretty place 
upon which to arrange a group of bric-a-brac, French 
crackle ware, and odd vases. A more elegant book-case of 
ebonized wood had a curtain in front of old-gold satin, with 
a band about a foot wide of .stamped crushed-strawberry 
velvet. The whole could be pushed aside, for it was hung 
with rings upon a gilded rod. 

The top of an easel can often be decorated with some 
scarf or piece of stuff which has been in the house unused 
for years. 



CORRECT PRINCIPLES OF TASTE. 



265 



Principles of Taste. 

If a lady can give sufficient thought to the subject, and 
decide upon some good guiding rules, she can often trans- 
form, with slight outlay, a bare and ugly house into a 
pretty and attractive one. Let use and enduring quality 
be in the mind, with the comfort of the household above 
every other consideration. 




(^pj^po-T-Wv^ fX. 



SCREENS. — HOW TO MAKE THEM. — MATERIALS. — HOW TO USE 
SCREENS TO ADVANTAGE. — HOW TO MAKE SCREENS. — 
HOW TO EBONIZE WOOD. — PAINTED SCREENS. — HOW TO 
USE DISCARDED MATERIAL TO ADVANTAGE IN COVER- 
ING PANELS OF SCREENS. — EMBROIDERED SCREENS. — 
HOW TO MAKE THE FRAMES. 




o>*:o 



JOTHING breaks up the stiffiiess of a room, and 
nothing serves so many odd purposes, as a fold- 
ing screen. A lady, assisted by a carpenter, con- 
structed a large one of four panels to make a 
dressing-room in one corner of a large bed-room. 
Since then it has served to conceal the bed from 
sight in a small hotel room, to hide a Christmas 
tree from sharp little eyes, and as a background 
for the model in a studio. 

The smaller banner and lamp screens are 
often very useful and always graceful and pretty. 
The frame for a panel screen may be constructed by any 
good carpenter who has well-seasoned wood to work 
with. The wood should be about two and one-half inches 
in width for a large screen. The two uprights of each panel 
look well reaching about two inches below the cross-piece at 
[266] 



HOW TO MAKE AND USE SCREENS. 



267 



the bottom. A screen of three panels, each five feet high 
and twenty inches wide, is perhaps the best balanced. The 
illustration here given will furnish all necessary details bet- 
ter than a description. 




Fig. 59- 

Ebonized wood is undoubtedly the favorite wood, as it 
enhances the beauty of all sorts of decoration. The follow- 
ing is an excellent recipe for 

Ebonizing Wood, 

Though a good carriage-maker can do better than any 
amateur workman: Put a quarter of a pound of best size 
in a stone pot, with sufficient water to cover it. Set it on 



2G8 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

the stove to melt, but do not let it boil. Then three cents' 
worth of lamp-black, and a little blue black to improve 
the color, should be made to the consistency of paste with 
oil. Upon this is poured the melted size, and the two 
mixed thoroughly together. Apply this while warm to the 
wood, and paint thickly enough to look solid. When quite 
diy, varnish with two coats of oil-copal varnish. This 
should be done in a warm room free from dust. The var- 
nish is put on with a large brush, boldly, rapidly, and 
evenly. 

If the article is to have a polished appearance, two coats 
of varnish will answer, but three or four varnishings will be 
needed to give it a dull finish. The rubbing down is done 
with the finest pulverized pumice-stone, mixed with water to 
make it about the thickness of cream, and rubbed on with a 
piece of rag. The rubbing must continue till all inequali- 
ties disappear and the surface is as smooth as glass. It has 
then to be dried with a cloth and polished again with tripoli 
and sweet oil. After drying a second time with soft linen, 
rub it with starch powder, and finish it with a clean, soft 
linen cloth until you can see your face in the polished sur- 
face. A single grain of sand or grit on any of the cloths 
would injure the surface. 

Bamboo Screens. 

Bamboo screens and easels are very popular. We have 
known them to be made from fishing rods, but suppose the 
bamboo must now be imported on purpose. 

Tripods and Fire-Screens. 

The handsome stands are made of gilded iron, having a 
solid base, a slender upright, and a cross-piece from which 



COVERING AND DECORATING SCREENS. 269 

the banner screen is suspended. In England, where an open 
fire is in almost every room, fire-screens are much in use. 
Modern ones are of gilded iron, and screwed to the mantel, 
the banner protecting the eyes of those sitting before the fire. 

An Old Clothes-Horse. 

This frame- work needs but slight explanation, and can 
often be found in a somewhat dilapidated condition in the 
kitchen garret. From thence it can be brought, ebonized 
or painted in successive coats of Venetian or Indian red, and 
covered to suit the taste. 

The Covering and Decoration of Screens. 

Perhaps the handsomest screens are those which are 
painted by hand. We own to a prejudice against painting on 
silk or satin. Fine painting should be on a more enduring 
material, and poor painting should only be done as a stepping- 
stone to what is better. After putting magnesia on the 
back and using your oil-color without additional oil, the 
color will " run " a little. 

As for water-color, you have to use body color, (Chinese 
white mixed with the ordinary water-colors), and the result 
is a dry surface which seems ready to crack off like white- 
wash. Nevertheless, we have seen some fine efiects produced 
both -with oil and water-color. French artists of name and 
fame have not scorned fan decoration upon silk and satin. 
Unless, however, great skill has been acquired, we would ad- 
vise one of the following methods: — 

1. Painting with oil-color upon some kind of canvas in- 
tended for the purpose.* 

2, Painting with water-color upon paper and protecting 
the work with glass. 



270 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

3. Embroidery which seems the dower right of rich stuffs, 
a most natural and beautiful decoration. 

4. Applique work, either onlaid or inlaid, and — 

5. A plain surface adorned with odd bits of decoration, 
birds, fans, pieces of heavy lace, etc. 

As to the first, picture canvas is heavy and very expen- 
sive. We have found oil window shading a very good substi- 
tute, and we have been told that book-binder's cloth serves 
equally well. Either can be nicely stretched upon the 
frame, the edge covered with narrow worsted braid, which 
comes at a cheap rate in thirty-six yard pieces, and tacked 
with upholsterer's tacks. This makes the back of the screen 
neat, and a pretty color of canvas-butf or stone color can be 
selected. 

Flowers have long been a favorite decoration, though 
many speak of the difficulty of finding designs of sufficient 
.size and importance for a large screen. It is well to decide 
upon the design for all of the panels before beginning to 
paint. 

A Pretty Idea 

Is to have the first panel for the spring, the second midsum- 
mer, the third for autumn. The first could be either a long 
branch or double branch of peach or apple blossoms, set, per- 
haps, in a brown vase upon a pretty table-cover. The back- 
ground could be a pale yellowish tint. The second might be 
a mass of roses hanging down from the top with a soft, gray 
background. The third could be a great branch of white 
chrysanthemums coming well across the panel from the left, 
with some crimson and gold blossoms near the frame of the 
screen, as if one hand held the three branches. 



COVERING AND DECORATING SCREENS. 271 

Flowers and Figures from Nature. 

In studying flowers it is well not to cut them, but paint 
a selected branch while it still grows and rejoices. A branch 
of chrysanthemums or azaleas can never be placed as beauti- 
fully as it places itself upon the parent stem. 

Figures are very appropriate for a screen, but there are 
not many unprofessional artists who have studied the figure 
sufiiciently to produce satisfactory results. One young lady 
having great talent, evolved, after some study, a screen from 
a frame made by a carpenter, and some burlaps for canvas, 
upon which (it had but two panels) she painted a knight 
and a lady. She served, with the aid of a long mirror, for 
her own model for the lady, and an unwilling brother was 
drummed into service as the knight. The burlaps had a 
sizing of paste to fill up the interstices and save paint. 

A Stationary Screen. 

We have seen a sort of partition screen built across a hall 
to convert the back part into a boy's bed-room. The frame 
wa.^ painted a dull red. The burlap was stretched, and a 
pretty group of peacock feathers arranged upon it, with a 
bow of some gay striped stuff* holding the stems. It was in 
an inconspicuous place, and the effect was excellent. 

Water-Colors. 

Each panel can be divided into sections by a band of 
wood. The frame is thus strengthened, and neither the 
picture nor the glass need be so large. In the water-color 
exhibitions in London, solid screens serve as hanging places 
for niauy small sketches which would stand but a poor 
chance among the large frames on the wall. 



GLMj^F^a^KR X. 



EMBKOIDERED SCREENS. — JAPANESE PIECE-WORK. — A PAT- 
RIOTIC SCREEN. — NEW USES OF OLD MATERIAL. — A 
QUEER USE FOR AN OLD CLOTHES-HORSE. — LAMBRE- 
QUINS. — TABLES. — CABINETS. — ODDS AND ENDS. — USE 
UP THE PIECES. 



o»<o 



HE variety here is immense. All rich stuffs, 
plush, satin, silk, and embossed materials, are 
handsome and may be heavily embroidered, or 
some slight spray worked upon them. 

Sail-cloth makes an exellent panel upon which 
to embroider figures in outline embroidery. The 
stamping can be done in most towns, or an 
ingenious person can transfer designs. 

Cretonne makes a pretty screen. It can be 
embroidered by working in the high lights in 
silk. Many cover it with embroidery, but this 
hardly pays. The first screen we ever saw, consisted of one 
panel, and was made from the rich-flowered dressing-gown 
of one of the ancestors of the family. 

A plain stretch of felting in any pretty color makes a 
beautiful background on which to arrange a group of 

[372] 




JAPANESE PIECEWORK. 273 

feathers, a stuffed bird, or a pair of Japanese fans with the 
handles crossed and tied with a bow of ribbon in a pretty 
contrasting color. A pair of bird's wings, those of wild 
<lucks are very nice, and a fan made of two pretty pieces 
of wall-paper laid in folds and held together at one end (an 
ordinary folding fan) with a large bow of ribbon, looks 
well. This same decoration in larger shape looks well on the 
wall. 

A good use to make of one of those interesting old 
" samplers " which are stowed away in so many houses is to 
stretch it ujx)n a pretty stuff panel of a screen and fasten at 
each corner with a bow of ribbon. If used in a screen with 
more than one panel, the others may be filled with 

Japanese Piecewokk. 

Colldtt a quantity of scraps of ribbon, brocade, satin, 
velvet, plush, and silk. If the pieces are small and odd in 
shape, so much the better. Take squares of old muslin, 
lay over them a half thickness of wadding, then baste on 
the pieces, turning in or covering the edges. Put them on 
in as fantastic a Avay as possible. Many embroider the 
larger spaces with palettes, crescents, arrows, butterflies, two 
rings interlocked, or any odd design, and cover all the seams 
with feather stitch or point russe. Much embroidery is not 
necessary; we have seen blocks which had a loaded ap- 
pearance. Having finished blocks enough for the space, 
sew them nicely together, line, and stretch in your screen. 

Let us here recommend as a constant friend and helper 
to one new in the art of designing, an illustrated dictionary. 
You will find pretty shields, birds, insects, Egyptian symbols, 
and a host of other suggestive designs. 

18 



274 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

One panel of piecework could be varied by a diagonal 
band of plush, or a corner of the same ; or the band could be 
of cloth, and if some learned friend would suggest a Sanscrit 
or Hebrew motto, it could be cut out and appliqued on. We 
have seen a beautiful hanging with an adornment of this 
kind, the letters being about six inches in length, and of 
black on a lighter ground. 

We think some ingenious woman could make a 

Patriotic Screen 

Which would be useful and striking. Take the army blue 
coat which some brave husband or brother wore home. 
Those belonging to the heroic dead are perhaps too sacred to 
be converted even into a thing of beauty. The frame could 
be painted with a succession of coats of Venetian red rubbed 
smooth with pumice-stone and water. The light blue cloth 
could be stretched, and the edges at the back of the screen 
covered with a narrow, dark blue braid and tacked on with 
fancy brass tacks. Across the light blue field could be laid 
a diasfonal band of dark blue cloth, fastened on with red 
and gold stitches and with army buttons at intervals. 
Upon the dark blue could be outlined in red, odd designs, 
some favorite motto, or a line from an army hymn. 

The cap, sword, spurs, and pistol make a handsome 
group on the wall with a background of crimson felt. 
Small banner screens (see illustration p. 275) are very 
pretty. The ground-work is of pale blue satin. The border 
in applique is of dark blue velvet, embroidered in crimson 
and gold. The leaves are of velvet, and the stems and 
tendrils of chenille. Any material may be used with this 
design. The cords and tassels are sometimes of beads, but in 
.any case they must harmonize in color. 



COVERING AND DECORATING SCREENS. 



275 



Lamp Screens. 

Yeiy pretty lamp screens are made in the same way", and 
mounted upon smaller tripod stands. 




Odd Fan Screens. 

Tlie frame is made of two uprights of bamboo fishing 
rod joined at the top with a piece of bamboo about two 



276 



OUB HOMES AND TJIEIR ADORNMENTS. 



inches in length, neatly glued and tacked in. The uprights 
are cut off within about four inches of the floor, and three 
short legs are fastened on so as to make a firm spread base. 
The thickest part of the rod serves for these legs, which are 
cut off so as to stand firm upon the floor. A small square 




Fig. 61. 

of ebonized wood, or a little Japanese tray or box-cover, 
forms the front of a l)lock in which six Japanese fans are 
set. The handles have to be somewhat cut off so as to fit 
the holes and radiate like the petals of a flower. A doul^^le 
purpose is served, — a screen in winter and a fan stand in 
summer. 

Mrs. Gen. Sheridan saw one made from this design, and 
lias ordered several from a handy workman who has learned 
to join the bamboo nicely. 



LAMBREQUINS AND TABLES. ^'i'J 

Old Clothes-Horse Screen. 

The frame- work was ebonized, the hinges were made of 
two long strips of old-gold colored leather, the two making 
the length of the upright. They were tacked on with brass 
nails on the right side of one panel, on the wrong side of the 
other, and vice versa. A little piece of the wood was cut 
away under the hinges to let the frame fold. The panels 
were covered with some old linen curtains brought from the 
garret. They were nicely stretched, covered with Christ- 
mas and birthday cards, with a border of fancy paper, then 
varnished with white copal varnish. 

Lambrequins. 

They are not as much in use as formerly, being super- 
seded by a valence which will shove aside with the curtains. 
Their stationary character, and the fact that they exclude 
the light from the top, whence it is so desii-able, has served 
to make them unpopular, though they are still made in rich 
material, cut in all manner of forms, and trimmed with 
fringe and heavy gimps. 

Tables. 

Many an old table could be made good-looking and use- 
ful by ebonizing the lower part, laying a thickness of wad- 
ding over the top, and coveiing with a piece of crimson 
felting. Braid or ribbon could be appliqued on a band to 
go round the table, and the edge could be trimmed with 
worsted fringe. I have seen a half-moon-shaped table 
covered with dark blue cloth, and with a fall of worsted 
embroidery which was worked in subdivisions by half a 



278 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

dozen difierent friends. A clover-leaf table is now often 
covered with fine crash, and the fall embroidered in crewels. 

Table-Cover. 

The illustration shows a completed design of an orna- 
mental table-cover. The cover is often made very much 




Fig. 62. 

longer, rttfording an excellent opportunity for decoration, 
and adding, of course, to the cost and labor of making. 

This cover is of fawn-colored cloth, ornamented 
elaborately on tlie ends in a]i])lieatiou embroidery. 



ANTIQUE FUBNITUBE. 279 

The desio-n figures which look dark in the ilkistration 
are appHed in brown cloth; and on each leaf of the large 
middle application figure, apply a piece of dark brown vel- 
vet. Edge all the applied figures with fawn-colored soutache, 
and besides, ornament the pieces of velvet in point russe 
embroidery with fawn-colored saddler's silk. For the lines 
of the design, sew on broad soutache in two shades. The 
cover is bordered with light brown, open silk fringe, an inch 
and a' quarter wide. The lining is brown percale. 

A Friendship Cushion 

Is divided by black lines into squares a few inches across, 
and filled in to suit the taste of each worker. 

Japanese quilt, described under chapter on screens, 
makes a handsome chair or sofa cushion, especially so with 
a diagonal band of plush across it. 

Odds and Ends. 

There is just now a great fancy for the old-fashioned 
flax Avheel with a tuft of flax tied to the spindle with 
ribbons. It is certainly a picturesque object, and very 
suggestive of the old and charming industry by which our 
grandmothers furnished their linen closets with the ex- 
cellent material of which stray table-cloths and tray-cloths 
come down as heirlooms. We have seen a tiny wheel 
gilded. It was very pretty, but somewhat theatrical. 

Cabinets 

Are the rage at present. We saw one lately which had 
adorned a garret for years. It now occupies the place of 
honor between the front windows in a handsome house. It 



280 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

has been ebonized, to be sure, and the panels of the doors 
gilded, and a border m brown and gold painted across the 
top of each panel ; but the old thing seems puzzled to find 
itself once more " the top shelf," and seems to consider itself 
an illustration of the ups and downs in this world. 

From Nurembuig have come countless old treasures of 
this sort. We think perhaps the old and dusty city parts 
gladly with some of its age and general mustiness, and 
replaces the old things with new. We Americans, in our 
newness, are equally charmed to acquire things which were 
old one hundred years ago. Many fine old cabinets come 
from Holland, and Italy gives up many treasures to the 
hordes of Americans who come armed with the invincible 
dollar. 

Hall Benches. 

Beautiful inlaid hall benches come in great numbers 
from Milan, Genoa, and Florence. We have heard of three 
within as many weeks coming to the West. All along the 
Hudson River there are treasures of old Dutch work to be 
seen, claw-footed "breeches," a sort of buffet and stout- 
backed old chairs in mahogany. Once upon a time the 
garret of one of the old Dutch houses in Albany gave up its 
own, and the lush of curiosity seekers was immense. The 
South is now considered a promising field for the old furni- 
ture buyer. We have seen a handsome, old-fashioned 
mahogany sideboard brought from there, which was of use 
and beauty far beyond the narrow, "high shouldered" 
things we are accustomed to see. 

Be Obiginal! 

It is a pity that every man and woman in furnishing a 
house cannot work kUvy the fashion of " The Chambered 



ANTIQUE FURNITURE. 281 

Nautilus," making their own house and furniture, or at least 
having it made, after their own needs and notions. This 
originality is the great charm of the antique. 

The furniture was not turned out by the thousand, but 
each piece was constructed either to fill an order or all "out 
of the carver's brain," so that to this, to any day, the charm 
of human expression hangs about the work. 

I think the rage for the antique in furniture, so far as it 
is a fashion, will pass away ; but interesting old things will 
always be treasured by those who feel the charm of old 
associations. 

Use up the Pieces. 

A friend indulged not long ago in some crimson felt for 
a screen. There were some pieces left. With the largest, 
she made the center of a scarf table-cloth, putting some striped 
stuff on each end ; and then there were some long ribbons 
of the felt left. She feather-stitched them in old-gold, and 
threaded them into a willow chair, where they did much 
better than ribbons, not fading, and looking more like use. 
A little piece still remained. She lined it with pasteboard, 
first having worked the motto, "Fast Bind, Fast Find," 
upon it, and made an excellent brush-broom holder for the 
hat rack. 



Glmj^ftrr XI. 



SOME NEW DESIGNS IN EMBROIDERY. — LAMBREQUIN AND 
CURTAINS. — MATERIALS TO USE, AND HOW TO CON- 
STRUCT. — AN ELEGANT SOFA PILLOW. — ^A NEW AP- 
PLIQUE DESIGN. — LACE LAMBREQUIN. 

A.M:BREQUIN and curtains.— The illus- 
tration is so plain that most ladies can easily 
construct the set with but few suggestions. The 
materials may be readily suited to the means and 
taste of the owner. The lambrequin is com- 
posed of three pieces, their sizes, of course, being 
detei'mined by the window. Eacli of the side 
pieces has three plaits turning inward, and the 
center piece three plaits running cross- wise. 
The trimmings may be put on to suit the taste, 
the heavier and richer the material, the better 
the effect. The curtains may be canton flannel 
trimmed with lace, or of any material harmoniz- 
ing with the lambrequin. 

Sofa Pillow. 

The material for this really elegant piece should be of 
good quality. The embroidery is worked in the Janina 
stitch, and shows off to most excellent advantage. The fol- 
lowing colors look quite well, and we recommend the com- 
bination • here suggested : Flowers, blue silk ; stamens, 
yellow and red; large leaves, olive green ; and wood, 
brown. The stems, small leaves, and straight lines of the 
border, are worked with golden -brown silk in three shades, 
the stems being darker. The buds are worked in violet 
and cream-colored silk, and the leaves near them in light 
green. Edge the top with heavy cord, and finish the 
C2831. 




CURTAINS AND LAMBREQUINS. 



283 



corners with tassels. The material may be some dark cloth, 
suitable to the taste and purse of the possessor. 

Applique De- 
sign for Mantel 
or Windoiu. — This 
design would be 
very elegant if 
made of plush, 
which is now the 
most popular ma- 
terial. It may, how- 
ever, be worked in 
silk, felt, or flannel ; 
in either case, cut 
out your pansies 
from velvet. This 
flower has so many 
hues, colors, and 
shades, that odd 
bits of material, as 
dark red, purple, 
white, old gold, ma- 
roon,— in fact, any 
tint, — may easily 
be worked in with 
most excellent ef- 
fect, two shades be- 
ing used for each 
flower. The leaves 
and buds are inade 
of green, and the 
stems of shaded 
green. When com- 
pleted, press the 
work on the wrong 
side, lining it with some suitable heavy material. Work 
the stems in vine chain stitch. For richness of effect, we 
do not think this design is surpassed. Directions for ap- 
plique work are given on page 241. 

The Lace Lamhrequin, illustrated opposite page 284, 
is elegant, and when the other drapery is of lace, it is very 




Curtain and Lambrequin. 



284 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 




Pillow in Janina Stitch. 




Applique 



appropriate. These lam- 
brequins can be found at 
the stores ready made, 
with nothing to do but 
fasten them to the cor- 
nice, which should be 
made to stand out so 
as to hold tlie lambre- 
quin clear of the cur- 
tains. The variety of 
designs is almost infin- 
ite, those with fern 
leaves being preferred. 



GLH^F»a^RR XII . 



FURNISHINGS. — THE HALL. — ITS IMPRESSION UPON VISIT- 
ORS. — THE PARLOR. — DINING-ROOM. — HOW TO FUR- 
NISH THEM AT REASONABLE COST. — EBONIZING WOOD, 
— HOME-MADE MANTELS, RUGS, CARPETS, ETC. 




o»;o 



HE suggestions made in the following pages, are 
offered as such. No authority, however high, 
can fix rules which will be followed by those 
whose originality leads them to decorate and fur- 
nish their homes in good taste without regard to 
fashion. 

The Hall.— a very recent and trustworthy 
writer says: "The entrance of a house indicates 
the character of the entire building, the lower 
hall and vestibule often furnishing the key-note 
to the whole interior. This key-note addressed 
to the eye should be pitched low ; there should be no striking 
brilliancy of color, although warm tones are admissible, but 
a leading up, as it were, to the richer hues and more elabo- 
rate adornments of the sheltered apartments." 

Ordinary halls are too small for much display, if here 
were the place for display. Where the dimensions of the hall 

[285] 



28G 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



A\dll permit, a hall table, made of such material as will sug- 
gest strength and durability, flanked on each side with 
chairs of like design, are not out of place. A small bracket. 




Fig. 63. 

supporting an antique jar or other bric-a-hrac, is often very 
appropriate, as is also a neat holder for whisp or brush, these 
being valuable adjuncts to any hall. 



HOW TO FURNISH BOOMS. 



287 



Where the hall is small, a mirror framed in such a way 
as to admit of pegs for hats and coats is, perhaps, as appro- 




Fig. 64. 

priate as can be wished. Fig. 63 gives a very pretty design. 
Such a design may be cut out with a scroll-saw or by your 



288 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

own carpenter, and ebonized according to the recipe given 
in this work, and furnished with a mirror, at little cost. 
Ebonized wood for such furniture is quite popular. 

A more commodious, and of course, more costly, style of 
hat, coat, and umbrella rack, with mirror and drawers, is 
shown in Fig. 64. 

The floor can be treated as the means and taste of the 
owner dictate. Tiles have been suggested already, but less 
costly material may be selected, as oil carpet, or Lineoleum, — 
a thick, durable covering resembling oil carpet, but made of 
gi-ound cork. A plain or stained floor with a neat rug often 
makes a pretty appearance. 

The Reception-Room, Parlor, and Library. 

The question of first importance in the furnishing of the 
drawing-room, parlor, or in fact any room, is whether the 
floor, ceilings, and walls are to be the background for deco- 
rative objects, or are themselves to furnish the decorative 
features. If the walls and ceilings are covered with costly 
and showy paper, and the floor carpeted with brilliant 
colors, no furniture, however costly, will show off to good 
eflect, as opinions on the subjects are very decided. Then 
let this question first be settled before a single step is taken 
towaid furnishing the room. Under chapters I to VII, 
will be found practical suggestions upon the treatment of 
walls, ceilings, etc. 

Regarding carpets, much might be said and with little 
effect, as opinions on this subject are very decided". One 
who gets glimpses of many parlors, has observed that in the 
average home the carpet is too costly for the other fur- 
nishings of the room. 



HOW TO FURNISH BOOMS. 



289 



Imitating the Oriental style, many persons of taste have 
contented themselves with a large rug on a stained floor. 
Home-made rugs, among people who are not slaves to fash- 
ion, are not considered out of place in the parlor. Such 




Fig. 65. 

people can render an apartment very attractive and at the 
same time comfortable, with small outlay. 

The mantel is a feature that never escapes the eye of a 
visitor; its contents therefore should receive attention. It 

19 



290 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

is the place for the display of pretty things, as vases, curi- 
osities, etc. 

Many people cannot afford the expensive mantels of 
marble, carved wood, and niarbleized slate, but they caxi 




Fig. 66. 

afford a plain mantel of wood which they may render very 
attractive by the following method : — 

" Take panels, or squares of glass, and if one is not artist 



STYLE OF LOUNGE. 



291 



enough to venture on original designs, select pleasing pict- 
ures of birds, flowers, grains, children, animals, or landscapes. 



op 




from the great chromo-field, cut them out nicely, and gum 
them upon the glass, face downward, covering the whole 



292 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

with a coat of paint in shades of blue, lavender, or sea-green. 
The right side of the glass then bears a fair resemblance to 
a china painting. These panels are easily and inexpensively 
made, and when fastened on the wood-work, with narrow 
black strips or moldings, have almost as good effect as the 
costlier tile mantels." 

The mantel can be ebonized in the same way as the hat 
rack, and it may be still more improved by placing a long, 
narrow mirror lengthwise on the shelf. 




Fig. ea 

Small hanging cabinets, with doors and a shelf above, 
may take the place of costlier furniture, and indeed, they 
may serve to set off the larger pieces to good effect. An or- 
dinary carpenter can make them, and if the panels of the 
doors are dccoratedwith nothing better than transfer pictures 
well varnished, they will be very pretty. 

Chairs should never sacrifice comfort for appearance; 
large, easy reading or library chairs like those illustrated in 
Figs. 65 and 66 are suggestive of comfort.- A lounge of the 
style given in Fig. 67 is more useful and graceful than the 
stereotyped semi-circular settee, while the hassock or stool 



THE DINING-ROOM. 293 

with castors, Fig. 68, is far more serviceable than the awk- 
ward ottoman. 

The Dining-Room. 

This room, of all others, should be the most cheerful; 
good digestion depends upon thorough, careful mastication 
of the food, which requires time, and no one Ls apt to give 
himself ample time in a cheerless dining-room. 

At the dining-room table the members of the family are 
united in motive, and should be in heart. Then let this be a 
cheerful room. Let the chairs be icomfortable, arrange a few 
choice pictures on the wall, and if a neat sideboard is beyond 
question, put up wall shelves, and leave them the natural 
color of the wood finished in oil, and above all else avoid too 
many mottoes. If it can be so arrang-ed, let the floor be 
covered, at least around the table, with a good oil-carpet, 
and stain the floor with some convenient stain, finishing 
with two coats of shellac, which is easily cleaned. 

If the dining-room is also used as a living-room, of 
coui'se it may be carpeted all over as usual. * 




CxHAF^TRK Xllf. 



BED-ROOMS. — HOW TO MAKE THEM CHEERFUL, COMFORT- 
ABLE, AND HEALTHFUL. — BED-ROOM FURNITURE. 

CHEAP BUT USEFUL FURNITURE. — HOW TO MAKE A 
BED-ROOM TABLE. — WASH-STAND WITH DRAPERY. 



o>*:o 



N the furnishing of bed-rooms, the individuality 
of the housewife asserts itself very strongly. 

When it is remembered that from one-fourth 
to one-third of our time is spent in our bed- 
rooms, no argument is necessary to prove that it 
should be rendered the most pleasant. 

Of course the bed itself is the principal feature. 
Too much is apt to be expended upon the bed- 
stead. More attention should be paid to the 
springs and mattresses. It is an easy matter 
from among the multitude of patterns to secure 
easy and durable springs at reasonable cost. The best 
mattress is made of hair; for health, the common husk 
mattress, with wool or cotton top, equals the hair, and is, 
moreover, very cheap. Avoid high beds; who does not 
remember the beds of our grandfathers, requiring the aid of 
a treacherous chau- to get into them ? 

[294] 




THE DRESSING BUREAU. 



295 



For decorative effect, the bed is the least important 
feature of the room. Usually the wall-paper, carpet, 
brackets, pictures, lounge, table, and bureau or dressing-case, 



OQ 







if all or a part of these can be afforded, add more to the 
cosiness of the room, than the bed. It is a good plan to 
purchase a plain bedstead and devote more to the other fur- 
niture. 



296 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

The Deessing Bureau. 

Where it can be afforded, a bureau is very dasirable ; it 
should be of size corresponding with the size of the room. 



Unless there is a good closet or a table with drawers, the bu- 
reau is almost a necessity. Marble tops are to be con- 
demned where articles of glass or fine china come in contact 
with them. 




fig. 7 



BEDSTEAD AND DRAPERY. 297 

A recent writer on this matter says of the bed-room 
table: " Quite an inexpensive one may be made from a dry- 
goods box three feet hi^-h, four wide, and two and a half 
feet deep, with four blocks of wood, one inch thick and four 
inches square, nailed beneath each corner, to which casters 
are fastened. The box is placed with open side out, and 
fitted with a convenient shelf or two. The whole interior 
should be neatly papered. 

"On the top at the back, one or two small boxes may 
be fastened, and the entire top covered with oil-cloth or 
other suitable material, and the front may be hung with 
drapery concealing the inside shelves. Another plan would 
be to sand-paper the outside and finish in shellac varnish. 
Much ingenuity can be displayed and money saved, by 
watching the fashion and other journals and carrying out 
their suffffestions." 



"tJO^ 



Bedstead and Drapery. 

Our illustration presents a very neat bedstead and 
drapery. The hangings are of muslin and net, worked in 
satin and slanting stitch, over-cast at the edges. The green 
quilted siik counterpane is laid inside a fine linen case, 
embroidered around the edges and buttoned over the quilt 
as shown. The pillow is trimmed with lace insertion and a 
double muslin frill, and embroidered at the corners, where 
it is also ornamented with a bow of colored ribbon. At the 
foot of the bed is a second cover of chintz or dimity, also 
trimmed wnth lace or frills. 

Brackets made with the scroll-saw can be used to 
advantage to hold books, curiosities, china, etc. The toilet- 
table or wash-stand affords an excellent chance for the dis- 



298 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

play of taste, the indispensable splasher and towel-rack 
may be articles of home manufacture, while a neat-figured 
damask towel will answer quite well for a marble top. 

In bed-rooms, where space must be economized, the 




Fig. 72. 

new style wardrobe and bedstead combined, may be used to 
excellent advantage. Our illustration gives all necessary 
details. It will be seen that the wardrobe is located behind 
the head of the bedstead. At each end is a door opening 
into the wardrobe, and hooks are attached to a piece which 
slides in and out. 




Fig. 73. 



DBAPEBY AND TOILET-STAND. 299 

Two drawers for linen are placed in the bottom of the 
wardrobe, and the whole space is nearly, if not quite, as 
capacious as a bureau or separate wardrobe. The doors 
close tightly so as to prevent dust from entering. 

Large pictures are out of place in a bed-room. A few 
engravings, — nothing of the " death-bed-of- Washington 
style," — with photographs of a few friends, are very appro- 
priate. 

The color of carpet and wall-paper should not be too 
dark, and the drapings of the windows should be such as to 
admit the sunlight freely. 

Cane or leather seated chau's are sold at such rates that 
most people can afford them. The easy rocker seems 
almost indispensable, especially in event of sickness in the 
household. 

Our ideal bed-room is among the best, if not the best, 
room in the house, except, perhaps, the family sitting- 
room. 

Drapery for Toilet-Stand. 

On the opposite page we give an illustration showing 
how the commonest and plainest bed-room may be rendered 
beautiful and attractive by the aid of a little taste and cheap 
material. The toilet-stand may be a cheap table, with a 
shelf erected on the top for toilet articles, and a bracket 
higher up for perfume articles, etc. 

Oil-cloth of any desired color may cover the table, cut in 
any shape to suit the fancy, the edges being bound with braid 
to correspond. The shelves and brackets may be covered to 
correspond with the table, and the whole draped with muslin 
or other material, edged with lace, or trimmed to suit the 



JOO 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



taste, or in harmony with the other adornments of the 
room. 

Shelves may be made under the table, and a curtain of 
coarser material suspended from its edges conceals them. 
These shelves may be used for shoes, slippers, etc. 




r^ 



RMw Wmm 



M 






^^^^■^ 




^" 



THE CARE, 




--^ 



CULTURE, t PROPAGATION 









OF !- 



t^^ 






[301] 






Enough for great and small; 
The oak-tree and the cherry-tree, 

"Without a flower at all. 
We might have had enough, enough 

For every want of ours, 
For luxury, medicine, and toil, 

And yet have had no flowers. 

Our outward life requires them not; 

Then wherefore had they birth ? 
To minister delight to man. 

To beautify the earth; 
To comfort ma«, to whisper hope, 

Whene'er his faith is dim. 
For whoso careth for the flowers 

Will care much more for Him. 

— Mary Howitt. 



[3021 



Glmafte^r I. 



THE CULTUKE OF FLOWERS, — HOW TO HAVE THRIVING 
PLANTS AND ABUNDANCE OF FLOWERS. — USEFUL SUG- 
GESTIONS. — HOW TO CONSTRUCT AND MANAGE HOT- 
BEDS AND FLOWER-BEDS. 




oj*:o 



HERE is no employrnent which tends to the 
development of the better nature of men and 
women more than the culture of flowers. How- 
ever humble the circumstances, the possession 
and culture of at least a few choice varieties, 
will make the home more tidy, and lend an air 
of refinement not to be attained in any other 
way. An English writer says: "To have a 
flower garden is to have many friends con- 
tinually near. Indeed, who will say that flowers 
do not lend a companionship to those who faith- 
fully care for them?" 

There is perhaps no better index of refinement in a 
home than the presence of flowers. It is no doubt very 
difficult in large cities, where the yards are of smaU dimen- 
sions, to do much in the way of flower gardens, but even 
there a few varieties, planted in the back yard, can be made 

[303] 



304 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

to furnish many a bouquet for the breakfast, dinner, or tea- 
table. 

In the smaller cities and towns, and in the country, no 
excuse can be offered for the neglect of flowers. 

Many plead want of time, but the excuse is not a good 
one, for but few minutes per day are required, and these 
few minutes furnish just such relaxation as every one needs 
to keep away the wrinkles, cares, and perplexities of regular 
employment; besides, the satisfaction and happiness gained 
in their care generally repay the possessor for all the atten- 
tion they require. 

Brief Hints on Sowing and Cultivating. 

In the outset do not make the common mistake of most 
new beginners, and undertake too many varieties at once, 
giving all the same treatment, for defeat will attend the 
effort. 

A good plan is to procure a seed catalogue, like D. M. 
Ferry & Co.'s, of Detroit, and others, which will tell you 
what every flower is, its culture, and when to expect 
flowers. Select from the catalogue a dozen or more good 
varieties, and content yourself with their culture until 
you can secure good results, and then increase your stock. 

The following hints will be of value in their care and 
culture : — 

Selection of Varieties. — Success in flower culture depends 
quite largely upon a judicious selection of varieties. Every 
sort is, under certain conditions, attractive and desirable; but 
some of them, while exceedingly beautiful under favorable 
circumstances, will be most unsatisfactory and little better 
than weeds under others. 



SOWING AND CULTIVATING FLOTVEKS. 305 

The Soil.— Another great object to be considered is the 
soil into which flower seeds are to be sown. The soil best 
adapted to flowering plants generally, is a light, friable loam, 
containing a sufficient amount of sand to ivnder it porous. 
A great many varieties will live in almost any kind of soil, 
except it be extremely dry, calcareous, or of a stiff*, heavy 
character ; still, to give them a fair chance for development, 
some little pains should be taken in adding to the soil, as 
much as possible, what may be wanting in it. Most flowers 
are better if produced on plants of most vigorous growth, so 
the greater portion of the garden should be prepared by 
deep digging, thorough pulverization, and liberal enriching 
with large quantities of well-rotted manure. On the other 
hand, some sorts do best on very poor soil, so a portion of 
the garden should be left without enriching at all. As the 
process of germination is shorter or longer in the different 
kinds of seeds, the patience of the cultivator is often sorely 
tried with seeds of a slowly germinating character; the 
patience of a devoted florist, however, ""is never exhausted in 
these manipulations, and the certainty of his final succeas 
repays him fully for the ti'ouble. 

Solving the Seed. — Nine-tenths of the failures in flower 
culture come from improper treatment of the seeds and 
young plants ; and we urge every one who makes an attempt 
to train and care for flowers, to study our descriptions of 
each variety found in the succeeding pages, observing the 
following general rules : — 

Make the surface as fine and smooth as possible. Do 
not plant any of the seeds when the ground is wet. 

Cover each sort of seed to a <lepth proportionate to its 
size; the finest, like portulaca, not more than one-quarter 

20 



306 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

inch deep; those the size of a pin head one-half inch, and 
those as big as a pea one inch. 

Press the soil down firmly over the seed. After making 
the soil as fine as possible with the rake, make it, for the 
smaller seeds, still finer, by crushing the lumps up in the 
hands. 

Procure a bit of lath (it would be better if planed 
smooth) about two feet long, press the edge down into the 
soil evenly, so as to make a groove as deep as the seed is to 
be planted ; scatter the seed along this, allowing four or five 
of the larger, or fifteen to twenty of the smaller seeds to the 
space one plant is to occupy when grown. Take care not 
to spill any of the seeds between the rows. Cover the seed 
by pinching the earth together over it; then turn your lath 
flat-ways, and pre-ss the soil down firmly and evenly. 

Put ft little stick at each end of each row, so as to mark 
it, then pull up all weeds that appear between the rows the 
first day they can be seen. Do not pull plants- out of the 
row unless you are stire they are weeds. 

Classification of Flowers. 

All flowers, raised from seed, are usually known as 
Annuals, Biennials, or Perennials. 

Annuals are those plants which flower or ripen their 
seeds or fruits the season they are sown, and then perish. 
This class of plants is again divided by the cultivator into 
two classes, — the Hardy, and the Half-hardy or tender kinds. 

Hardy Annuals are those which require no artificial 
heat at any period of their growth, every stage of their 
development, from germination to ripening of the seed, being 
passed in the open ground. 



CLASSIFICATION OF FLOWERS. 307 

They are the most easily cultivated of all plants; the 
■number of their varieties is large, and their flowers, when 
properly grown, are frequently of most attractive beauty 
and elegance. It is only to be regretted that they are not 
generally cultivated to that extent to which their merit, 
justly entitles them. The seed may be sown from the first 
of April to the middle of June, along the border, in little 
patches four or six inches square, or in drills, on the spot 
where they are wanted to blossom ; and in doing so, care 
should be taken to have the different varieties arranged in 
such a manner as to produce a pleasing effect when they are 
in bloom. 

Half-hardy Annuals are those species that flower and 
ripen their seeds in the open air, but need the assistance of 
artificial heat in the earlier stages of their growth. They 
should be sown in a hot-bed, or in pots in a green-house, if 
one is available, or in a sunny window. Keep them well 
shaded, which will prevent absorption by the rays of the 
sun, and the consequent necessity of frequent watering, 
which bakes the soil, and does much mischief to seeds of 
slow growth. Toward the middle or end of May, many of 
the seedlings will be ready for transplanting to borders ; but 
previous to this exposure, it will be necessary to harden 
them, preparatory to removal, by gradually admitting air 
to the frame both day and night. 

Biennials and Pere7^')^^aZs.-^Biennials are those plants 
that do not generally flower the first year, and are only in 
perfection one season. Perennials continue to flower several 
years in succession. The seed may be sown, as has already 
been stated, at times when the ground is moist, but not 
very wet, from the first of April to August. Many of them 



308 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

may be raised in the open ground, like hardy annuals, and 
transplanted; but tender or half-hardy kinds should be 
sown as directed for half-hardy annuals. As they do not 
generally bloom the first year, they may be thinned out or 
removed from the seed-bed as soon as they are well rooted, 
and planted either in different parts of the garden, or into 
nursery beds, in rows a foot apart. The half-hardy or 
tender biennials must be kept during winter in a green- 
house or dry cellar, and tender perennials must be protected 
from frost by a cloth or mat being fastened or tied around 
them, and covered afterward with leaves or litter. 

Brief directions for sowing are given in our descriptions 
of varieties; still, to render success more certain, a careful 
observance of the above directions, which are based on the 
practical experience of growers, will be found of great 
benefit to inexperienced florists. 

Hot-bed Culture. — Many varieties of flowers can scarcely 
be brought to perfection without the assistance of hot-bed or 
cold-frame, and much care is often necessary in transplant- 
ing, sheltering, and pricking out the young plants. It is a 
work that requires much experience, and no doubt many 
disappointments will naturally occur. Still, a hot-bed is a 
necessity, without the aid of which many of our choicest and 
most beautiful flowers cannot be successfully grown. Ex- 
perience is a rapid teacher, and the lover of flowers is an apt 
scholar. 

How TO Make a Hot-Bed. 

A hot-bed that may be used for the germination of either 
flower or garden seeds, may be made at little expense in the 
following manner: If possible, it should be built against 



HOW TO MAKE A HOT-BED. 309 

the south side of a shed or board fence, as this arrangement 
will protect it from winds and will increase the heat. Con- 
struct a box or frame of boards, two feet high on the side 
that is to face the south, and one and one-half feet higher on 
the opposite side ; when the frame is in place, fill it with 
nearly fresh manure from a horse stable, to the depth of one 
and a half feet. Fit sashes, with panes of glass lapping like 
shingles, over the top, and let it stand two or] three days, or 
longer if the weather is cold; now fill in on top of the 
manure from four to six inches of good, rich, finely pulver- 
ized garden soil, which, if of stiff clay, should be mixed 
with sand, and cover the bed as before ; leave it for a few 
days, taking the precaution to i-aise a bank of earth around 
the outside of the frame to further protect it. After a 
few days, stir the soil and sow the seeds in drills marked 
with flat sticks. Label the sticks with each variety. Give 
the bed fresh air each day, and sprinkle with warm water 
as often as may be required. 

Use great care in attending to the bed. When the day 
is warm the sash should be lifted, and replaced at night, and 
unless it is cold enough to chill the plants, fresh air should 
be admitted, at all times. 

It sometimes happens that the bed "heats," and it is 
necessary then to watch it closely. Examine it by plunging 
the hand down several inches; if it is hot, remove the sash, 
use water, not cold, and make deep holes in the bed with 
sticks for the escape of heat, and fill them up when the heat 
is reduced. If the nights are very cold, cover the frame with 
mats or blankets. If such a frame is made large enough, 
garden vegetables can be had several weeks earlier than 
when grown in the ordinary manner. 



310 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Flowers may also be raised by planting the seeds in the 
pots intended for them, and sinking them in the hot-bed. 

The Flower Garden. 

Where it is possible, flower gardens should be so located 
as to be shaded from the afternoon sun. Elaborate beds 
are to be avoided unless one has abundant time to devote to 
their care. An endless variety of simple designs for beds 
can be arranged, and the simpler the better for the effect, 
unless much elaboration can be afforded. 

Spade the beds very deep and mix manure, sand, and 
rotted leaves with the soil, raising them very little above the 
surface. 

For borders, use brick set edgewise, large, smooth pebbles, 
or narrow planking. Strips of turf, if the grass is kept Avell 
clipped, also make a pretty border. 

Well-sodded mounds, topped with low flowers, look quite 
pretty, but in dry weather they ai'e very liable to dry out, 
and need abundance of water. 




(^pj^JO/Jv^^ JI. 



DESCRIPTION OF VARIETIES. — A LIST OF BULBS, WITH METH- 
ODS OF TREATMENT. — CLIMBERS. — ANNUALS. VARIE- 
TIES SUITABLE FOR ALL PURPOSES. 




HE following descriptions will be of great value 

in the selection of flowers. The list includes all 

kinds, — Climbers, Bulbs, Annuals, and Hardy 

Shrubs. 

Bulbs. 

Tuberose. — Of all the sunnner flowering, bulb- 
ous plants, we think the tuberose the most desira- 
ble. The flowers are waxy white, double, and 
so fragrant as to perfume the whole atmosphere 
for some distance around. They are useful for 
making button-hole bouquets, in largo bouquets, or 
as single specimens. Each bulb flowers only once, but the 
smaller bulbs can be set out for future flowering when their 
growth is completed. A good way to grow tuberoses is to 
All five-inch pots half full of cow manure, and the remainder 
with good, rich earth, mixed with sand. Plant the bulbs in 
this in April, water moderately, and hasten growth by 
putting in a warm, light place. When the weather has be- 

[311] 



312 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

come warm, plunge the pots in the earth, out of doors. 
They will usually flower before cold weather in autumn; if 
they do not, the pots can be brought in, and they will 
bloom in the house. 

Cyclamen. — Well-known and universally admired 
bulbous-rooted plants, producing exceedingly handsome red 
and white flowers. The seed should be sown in spring, and 
by autumn will produce a bulb, which if potted and placed 
in a conservatory or green-house, will blossom the following 
spring. Propagated only from seed. 

Cyclamen, 'persic'iim, 'mixed, green-house variety of 
great beauty, and many colors. 

Madeira-Vine. — Tuberous-rooted climber, with glossy 
green leaves and delightfully fragrant white blossoms, some- 
times called, " Mignonette vine." It is of rapid growth, and 
from a few tubers, vines will be produced sufficient to cover 
one side of a cottage. The tubers are tender, and must be 
protected from frost during the winter. 

Lily. — The lily has been, with eminent propriety, styled 
the " Queen of Flowers," and truly no flower conveys so 
adequate an idea of queenly beauty, majestic grandeur, and 
faultless purity, as the Lily. Their culture is simple, and 
with a little care, failure is impossible. Select a deep, rich 
soil, enrich it well with thoi'oughly decomposed manure, and 
.set the bulbs from three to six inches deep, according to size. 
In the autumn the bed should be protected by a liberal 
covering of leaves or litter, and care should be taken that 
the bulbs have proper drainage, no water being allowed to 
stand around the roots. The bulbs can be transplanted 
cither in spring or autumn, but should be kept* out of the 
ground the shortest possible time. Once firmly established. 



DESCRIPTION OF BULBS. 313 

they should not be disturbed oftener than once in five years. 
Many of the varieties force well in the green-house, but are 
more suitable for parlor culture. 

Bleeding Heart. — This is a tuberou.s-rooted plant, 
blooming in the spring, and favorably known almost every- 
where. It requires only the ordinary culture of border 
plants. Roots planted in autumn will flower freely in the 
spring. The roots should be divided every third year. 
The flowers are a delicate pink color, very graceful, pro- 
duced continuously from May to July. 

Dahlia. — The dahlia has always been a favorite for 
autumn flowering. The flowers are so symmetrical and 
perfect, and the range of brilliant colors so wide and varied, 
that they will always be popular where display is wanted. 
The roots are tender, and easily injured by frost. They 
should be set out' three feet apart, after all danger of frost 
is over, and placed in a cool cellar, and not be allowed to 
freeze during winter. The plants should be supported by 
tying to stakes. 

Gladiolus. — Magnificent plants, with sword-like leaves 
and long spikes of flowers of every conceivable color and 
shade. The varieties are now numbered almost by thou- 
sands, each year bringing forth new and choice selections 
which have been produced from seed, this being the only 
method of obtaining new varieties. The bulb, which is 
produced from seed, requires three years' growth before 
being of sufficient size to flower well. They should be taken 
up on approach of winter, and kept from freezing till warm 
weather in spring, and then planted out in groups and 
borders. 

Calla. — An old and very desirable plant, either as an 



314 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

aquatic, oi- for the ornamentation of the drawing-room and 
conservatory. Thrives in any light, rich soil when plenti- 
fully watered. The seeds, which should be sown in green- 
house in early spring, produce small bulbs in the fall, which 
should be repotted in rich soil. The production of large 
plants from seed takes some time, but the beautiful creamy- 
white flowers are an ample reward for the care and patience 
bestowed. Half-hardy perennial. 

Climbers. 

Clematis. — Well known and universally admired climb- 
ers, some of the varieties being remarkable for the beauty 
and fragrance of their blossoms. Fine for covering arbors, 
verandas, etc., as they cling readily to almost any object. 
Most of the kinds are hardy, herbaceous perennials, but 
some little protection in Northern latitudes, through winter, 
is advised. Will do well in any good garden soil. 

Cypress-Vine. — A most beautiful climber, with delicate, 
dark-green, feather foliage, and an abundance of bright, 
star-shaped, rose, scarlet, and white blossoms, which in the 
bright sunshine present a mass of beauty. Planted by the 
side of veranda, tree, or stakes, and trained properly, there 
is nothing prettier. The seeds will germinate more freely if 
warm water be poured on the ground after planting. Ten- 
der annual; fifteen feet high. 

Gourds. — A tribe of climbers with curiously-shaped fruit, 
in various colors. Being of rapid growth, they are fine to 
cover old fences, trellises, stumps, etc. The foliage is quite 
ornamental, and the markings of some of the fruit quite ex- 
traordinary. Do not plant the seed till all danger of frost 
is over, and select rich, mellow ground. Tender annual 
climbers ; ten to twenty feet high. 



DESCRIPTION OF CLIMBERS. 815 

Ipomea. — Beautiful climbers, and exceedingly attractive 
mixed with other climbers. The flowers are of a variety of 
shapes and sizes, and of an endless number of colors, many 
being wondrously brilliant, and of graceful form. They are 
alike good for green-house, for pots and baskets, and for 
trellises, stumps, arbors, etc. They require heat in starting, 
and some of the varieties will not succeed out of the green- 
house. Tender annuals ; five to ten feet high. 

Maurandya. — Graceful climber for green-house, parlor, 
baskets, or out-door purposes. Set out in the border with a 
little frame to which to attach their tendrils, they will be 
loaded all the season with rich purple, white, and rose, fox- 
glove-shaped blossoms. The seed should be started in hot- 
bed or green-house, as without artificial heat, they will 
scarcely flower the first season. They must be removed to 
a warm place on the approach of cold weather in autumn. 
Tender perennial climber; six feet high. 

Smilax. — No climbing plant in cultivation surpasses thi? 
for the graceful beauty of its foliage. In cut flowers, and f oi 
wreaths, etc., it is indispensable to florists. Its hard texture 
enables it to be kept several days after being cut, without 
wilting. Nothing is finer for clothing statuettes, vases, etc. 
Soak the seed in warm water twelve hours, and plant in 
pots, in hot-bed or green-house, in February, and keep in a 
warm, moist place. One plant in a two-inch pot is enough. 
After they have completed their gi-owth and the foliage 
begins to turn yellow, turn the pots on their sides and with- 
hold water till August, when the little bulb which has formed 
can be repotted in good, rich earth, and watered freely, and 
it will grow all winter. Tender perennial climber; ten 
feet high. 



316 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Annuals and Perennials. 

Aster-. — No family of plants bears such distinct marks of 
progress as the aster, and none are more eagerly sought. 
An almost endless variety, always reliable, it is not strange 
that they should become a necessity. The kinds found in 
the flower garden are usually French or German, and when 
eh-oumstances for their growth are favorable, present a con- 
stant varying succession of blossoms till frost comes. The 
taller varieties should be supported by stakes or trellises. 
The seed should be sown early in spring, and the young 
plants transplanted from one to two feet apart, according to 
the height and size. 

Begonia. — Ornamental foliage, green-house and stove 
plants, with many-colored, succulent leaves, oblique at their 
base. Very useful for ferneries, green-houses, and parlor 
decoration. Some of the varieties, in addition to their beau- 
tiful foliage, produce magnificent blossoms. They have 
been so much improved, and so many new flowering sorts 
introduced, that we almost fail to recognize the species. 
Some are propagated from seed only, others from cuttings. 
All require a rich soil. 

Camellia. — All species of camellias are universally ad- 
mired on account of their beautiful, rose-like flowers and 
elegant dark -green, shinmg, laural-like leaves. They are 
hardy green-house shrubs of easy culture, requiring only to 
be protected from frost. The best soil for them is an equal 
quantity of good sandy loam and peat. They are propa- 
gated by inarching, cuttings, grafting, and from seed, the 
latter being the only method of obtaining new varieties. 
When the plants are not growing, they should receive but 



ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 317 

little water, and when growing freely, can scarcely receive 
too much. A regular succession of flowers may be obtained 
from autumn till July, if attention be given to removing the 
potted and growing plants from a warm to a cooler atmos- 
phere. When the growth is completed, and the flower-buds 
formed, a cool, sheltered situation is best, for they will be 
seriously injured if exposed to the rays of the sun. 

Calceolaria. — A favorite and universally-admired genus, 
remarkable for its large, beautifully spotted blossoms, 
which are very showy, and from which an almost countless 
number of hybrids have been raised. They are perennial, 
are grown in pots in the conservatory, green-house, and 
garden ; but few flowers are held in greater esteem. They 
prefer a turfy loam, a mixture of peat and sand, or a rich, 
open garden mold, and are propagated from seed or cuttings. 
Some of them are herbaceous perennials, others shrubby 
evergreens. 

Carnation. — No flower can surpass in delicacy of 
marking, form, or delicious fragrance, the richly-hued car- 
nation. It has always been one of the most esteemed of 
the florist's collection, and there is no flower more desirable 
for the garden. The seed will not produce all double 
flowers, though a good percentage will be double, and of all 
shades and colors, many being very fragrant. Sow under 
glass in green-house or hot-bed, and when of sufficient size, 
transplant two feet apart each way. New and choice vari- 
eties are obtained from seed. Half-hardy perMinial; one 
and a half feet high. 

Candytuft. — Universally known and cultivated, and 
considered indispensable for cutting. All the varieties look 
best in beds or masses. Seed sown in the autumn produces 



318 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

flowers early in spring; when sown in April, flower from 
July to September, and some of the sorts till frost comes. 
All the varieties are hardy, and easy to cultivate. Single 
plants transplanted look well, and bloom profusely. Hardy 
annual ; one foot high. 

Ckrysanthemiim. — The following are the old garden 
varieties, producing flowers white, yellow, and variegated, 
single and double. They flower in autumn, and are desir- 
able where there are large collections, as they are brilliant 
and striking. The single sorts are quite as handsome as the 
double. Hardy annual ; one and a half to two feet high. 

Chrysanthemum, coronarium, double white. 

Chrysanthemum, coronarium, double yellow. 

Chrysanthemum, Burridganum, crimson, white center; 
single. 

Chrysanthemum, coronarium, mixed. 

Dahlia. — This exceedingly beautiful genus comprises an 
almost endless number of varieties, all more or less showy 
in the flower garden in autumn when most other flowers 
have faded. They are all of easy cultivation, growing 
freely in almost any soil, from seed sown in spring. The 
seed should be sown in shallow pans, in March, and the 
seedlings transplanted to small pots. As soon as danger of 
frost is over, plant out, one foot apart. These plants will 
make tubers, which should be taken up in the fall and 
kept through the winter in a cool, dry place, away from 
frost, and planted out in the spring, when they will blossom 
the following autumn. New varieties are constantly being 
produced from seed, some of them of exquisite beauty. 

Fuchsia. — Well-known, half-hardy, perennial, deciduous 
shrubs woi-thy a place in every garden. The varieties are 



ANNUALS AND PEBENNTALS. 319 

now numbered by hundreds, and scjuie are exceedingly 
beautiful. They are easily grown from seed, and as cut- 
tings; and from seed many improved varieties are obtained. 
Sow in March, in shallow pots ; prick out in crocks four inches 
in diameter, when of convenient size, where they can con- 
tinue to grow till ihey bloom. As soon as they have 
flowered, select such as have good points, and change into 
larger pots. When frost appears, protect the plants. 

Heliotrope. — Highly valued for the fragrance of their 
flowers, and duration of bloom, and are to be met with in 
most gardens. They succeed in any rich, light soil, and 
cuttings of the shrubby kinds, taken off while young, strike 
readily. Half-hardy perennial ; one foot high. 

• Mignonette. — A well-known hardy annual, producing 
dense, semi-globular heads of exceedingly fragrant flowers, 
borne on spikes from three te six inches long. Is in bloom 
nearly the whole season, and 4:he perfume is so fragrant that 
the whole atmosphere around is perfumed. No garden 
should be without it. If sown at intervals during the 
spring and early summer, it will be in bloom till killed by 
the frost. Seeds sown in autumn will bloom early in 
spring. Hardy annual; perennial if protected; one foot. 

Oleander. — This well-known shrub, originally a native 
of India, is of easy culture, and flowers freely the greater 
part of the year. In warm, moist climates, it requires no 
protection, and attains the proportions of a good-sized tree. 
The flowers have a salver-shaped corolla, with a crown of 
torn appendages in the center, and are of a beautiful shade 
of pinkish-red. They can be produced successfully in the 
house if the atmosphere is kept moist and warm. Sow 
seeds in gentle heat in February or March, in light, rich 



320 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

soil, which must be kept moist. When young plants are 
three or four inches high, repot in rich soil. The tempera- 
ture in which plants are grown should not fall below 35°. 
The young shoots made one season should bloom the next. 

Pansy. — These lovely flowers are favorites with all, not 
only for the brilliancy and variety of their colors, but for 
the durability of their bloom. Seed may be sown in open 
ground in spring or summer, or in hot-bed early in spring. 
Young plants produce the largest and best flowers. The 
plants should always occupy a cool, partially shaded situa- 
tion, and the ground cannot be too rich; coolness and 
moisture are necessary. Transplant when an inch high. 
Seed sown in July will blossom late in autumn; if sown in 
October, will bloom the following spring. Hardy biennial ; 
four inches high. 

Geranium. — Probably the geranium is better known 
and more universally admired than any other plant 
grown. The constant succession and durability of bloom 
till frost comes, the brilliancy of the scarlet and other 
colors, and the exquisite markings of the leaves of some of 
the varieties, render them very desirable for pot culture and 
bedding. No garden seems complete without a bed of them, 
and in every collection of conservatory or parlor plants we 
are sure to find the geranium. Propagdtwn hy seed is the 
only sure vxiy to obtain superior varieties. Sow in March, 
in gentle heat, in well-drained pots. Water moderately, and 
as soon as the third leaf appears, pot singly in two-inch 
crocks, exchanging for larger ones as the plants require. 
As soon as the weather will permit, plunge the pots in open 
border, and on the approach of frost remove them to a shed. 
They will blossom the succeeding spring. Propagation for 
common varieties can be ma.de from cuttings. 



ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 321 

Ferns. — Flowerless plants, too well known to need de- 
scription. Many of the varieties are exquisitely beautiful. 
There are so many sorts, varying so widely in habit, that 
to give explicit directions for the culture of each would re- 
quire a volume of itself. As a general rule they should be 
kept in a warm, humid atmosphere, and watered abun- 
dantly. The soil best adapted to their growth is a turfy, 
fibrous peat, mixed with sand and leaf mold, and underlaid 
with pieces of broken crock. In places too shady for other 
plants to thrive, they grow in gre^t beauty. Coming as 
they do from every clime, we find them a very interesting 
study. They are alike good for baskets, vases, rock-work, 
ornamental plants for parlor or conservatory, and the 
pressed leaves of some of the varieties are marvels of grace- 
ful beauty. Many of the most beautiful sorts are propa- 
gated from seed only. Their exceeding grace and beauty 
will well repay all care bestowed upon them. 

Phlox DruTYi'mondii. — Remarkable for the brilliancy 
and abundance of their large, terminal flowers, completely 
hiding the foliage. The blossoms are of many colors, from 
pure white to deepest purple, eyed and striped. For masses, 
of separate cqlors and for cutting for bouquets, they are un- 
surpassed. The seed can be planted in open ground in au- 
tumn or spring, or plants may be -started in hot-bed and 
transplanted. Give good, rich ground, and set plants six 
inches apart each way. Hardy annual; one foot high. 

Snapdragon. — The snapdragon is an old favorite border 
plant, with dark and glos.sy leaves, and large, curiously- 
shaped flowers with finely marked throats. They have been 
much improved by careful selection, and now are really 
magnificent flowers. They will blossom the first season 

21 



322 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

from seed sown in spring, but the blossom will be much 
stronger the second season. Succeeds best in dry, loamy 
soil. Tender perennial ; two feet high. 

Violet. — The violet should not be wanting in any garden, 
on account of its fragrance and early appearance. A single 
flower will perfume a whole room. It is well adapted 
for border or rock-work, and commences putting forth its 
beautiful double and single blossoms in April and continues 
through May. Succeeds best in a .shady, sheltered place, 
and can be easily increased by dividing the root. The 
violet is an emblem of faithfulness. Hardy perennial; four 
iaches high. 

Zinnia. — A very showy plant, with large, double flow- 
ers, which, when fully expanded, form hemispherical heads, 
become densely imbricated, and might easily be mistaken 
for dwarf dahlias. The colore run through all the shades of 
carmine, lilac, scarlet, purple, crimson, yellow, to pure white. 
If any single blossoms appear, they should be at once pulled 
up. Sow the seed early in spring, in open ground, and 
transplant to one and a half feet apart, in good, rich soil. 
Half-hardy annual ; one and a half feet high. 

Chinese Primrose. — These are perhaps the most desir- 
able of all hou.se-blooming plants, and will richly compen- 
sate for the little cai;e they require. They are in almost 
constant bloom all winter, and if the plants be transferred 
to the border, they will bloom nearly all summer. Though 
perennial, new plants flower more freely, and seed should 
be sown every year. Give them a long time for growth 
b'.^fore flowering, and do not force the young plants, but 
simply protect them from frost, and damp, cutting winds. 
Sow the seed in shallow boxes, filled with good, rich soil. 



ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 323 

dusting a little fine earth over them: if covered too deeply, 
or if the seed be wet and allowed to dry again, they will 
not germinate. Transplant into pots, and they will be 
ready for winter blooming in the drawing-room. Tender 
perennial; six to nine inches high. 

Roses. — The rose requires high culture; it should be 
planted in good, well-drained soil ; the ground can scarcely 
be made too rich. The pruning required will vary with the 
sorts planted, the rank-growing requiring less pruning than 
the weak ones. The points particularly to be observed are to 
prune before the buds start in spring, to cut out all unripe 
or old and feeble shoots, and to cut back the last season's 
growth to from one-half to two-thirds its length, according 
to the vigor of the sorts. Winter protection of tender sorts 
is accomplished by covering after a few severe frosts, with 
leaves, straw, evergreen boughs, or earth, or by removing 
the plants to a cool cellar. With a little care of this kind, 
the choicest tender roses may be safely wintered, and as they 
are the only really perpetual roses, they are abundantly 
worth the extra care. The insects most commonly injurious 
to the rose — as the Aphis, which appear in great numbers 
upon the young, growing shoots, and the Thrips, which prey 
upon the under side of the leaf, giving it a sickly, yellowish 
look, — may easily be destroyed by syringing or dipping the 
plants in tobacco water. 

Petunia. — Petunias are unsurpassed, if indeed equaled, 
for massing in beds. Their richness of color, duration of 
bloom, and easy culture will always render them popular. 
They will do well sown in open border in spring, or earlier 
in cold-frame or hot-bed, and transplanted eighteen inches 
apart. By the latter process, they will come into bloom 



324 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

much earlier, though they do perfectly well sown in open 
ground. Be cai-ef ul not to cover the small seeds too deep ; 
they like a sandy loam. Tender perennial ; one and a half 
feet high. 

Water-Llly. — Hardy, aquatic plant, bearing exceed- 
ingly beautiful, fragrant white blossoms, which appear as 
if floating on the water. They are very much admired, 
■M\(\ juv^ constantl}" l)eeoming more and more popular. Are 




Fig. 74- 

increased by sowing the seed, or by dividing the ixx)ts or 
tubers. They grow readily in ponds or streams of shallow 
water having muddy bottoms, and can be grown in aqua- 
riums, tubs or tanks, in the house, if there be sufficient mud 
at the bottom, and tlie seeds or roots be kept continually 
covered with wat(ir. 

Cultivation in Ttib-s. — For a tub, take a strong barrel, 
iiee from tar, oil, or salt, saw it in two, fill this one-third full 
with fine, black garden soil, oi- meadow mud if handy; plant 
the seeds in this mixture, covering them one inch deep, add 



ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 325 

water gently so as not to disturb the seed, until the tub is 
full. This is all the care needed ; always keep the tub full 
of water. Set this on a brick or board platform in any 
place you desire. The tubs, with their contents, should be 
placed in a cellar during the winter, kept from frost, and 
not allowed to entirely dry up. 

For Aqiiariums. — Put in five inch&s of fine, black loam, 
cover the seed one inch deep in this, and sift on enough fine 
sand to entirely cover the loam. 

Ice- Plant. — A handsome and curious plant for hanging 
baskets, rock-work, vases, and edgings. The leaves and 
stems are succulent and fleshy, and appear as though covered 
with ice crystals, and look like rock candy. The whole 
plant is peculiarly brilliant in the sunshine. The flower is 
white, and not conspicuous. Succeeds best in dry, sandy 
loam, and in a warm situation. Can be grown in pots or 
open border, the former having preference. Tender annual 
trailer; six inches high. 

Balsam. — The Balsam or Lady's Slipper, is an old 
favorite, but has been so much improved by cultivation as 
to be scarcely recognized. The blossoms are double, though 
some semi-double and single ones will be pretty certain to 
appear, and such plants should be removed. The prevail- 
ing colors are red and white, the former running into all 
shades of crimson, scarlet, rose, and purple, spotted and 
striped. The flowers will be improved by planting in a 
hot-bed, and transplanting when two leaves have formed, 
one or two feet apart. Pinch off* a portion of the shoots, 
which will increase the size of the flower and vigor of the 
plant. . Needs a rich soil, and good cultivation, well 
repaying for both with the abundance of its magnificent 
flowers. 



326 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



Ageratum. — A valuable plant on account of the length 
of time it remains in bloom, and for contrasts of color with 
the more brilliant varieties. It blooms constantly all sum- 
mer in the garden, and if removed to the green-house, all 
winter. Desirable for cut flowers for bouquets. Grows 
one and a half feet high, and the plants should stand two 
feet apart. Colors light blue and pure white. Start the 
seeds under glass, and transplant. Hardy annual. 

Ahutilon. — Very popular, perennial, green-house shrub, 
with bell-shaped, drooping flowers, which are borne in pro- 
fusion nearly the entire year. Well adapted to house cul- 
ture, and desirable for bedding out in the summer. There 
are several varieties, the flowers of which vary from pure 
white and yellow to deep orange and crimson, streaked with 
yellow. Can be propagated by cuttings, in sand, under 
glass, during summer. If seeds are sown before April, 
under glass, the plant will bloom the first season. 




G.FIAP1"RR Ilf. 



WINDOW GARDENING. — HOW TO HAVE FLOWERS ALL WINTER, 

— BEST VARIETIES FOR WINTER USE. HOW TO CARE 

FOR THE FLOWERS. — THEIR ARRANGEMENT IN THE 
WINDOW. 




oXWc 



j N addition to what has been said in the chapters 
on the culture of flowers, it is thought proper to 
add a few hints upon the subject of window 
gardening. 

There are but few plants that will not thiive 
in-doors under proper conditions of light and tem- 
perature. A window which admits much light 
by day should be selected, and as plants must 
have their pei'iods of sleep, provision should be 
made for shutting off the bright glare of the lamp 
at night. A few plants, well cared for, look better 
than a window full of plants so closely crowded as to cause 
them to grow spindling and turn yellow. 

Regarding soil, the reader is referred to other chapters in 
this work ; but it is well to state that the pots for window 
plants should be filled to the depth of one or more inches 
with charcoal, to assist in drainage and to keep the soil sweet.. 

[327] 



328 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



Care should be used in watering, as plants are easily 
" drowned out. " If during a gentle, warm shower the plants 
can be so placed as to receive it, they will be all the better 
for it. They should generally be watered once a day with 
a watering-pot, — never poured on, — the water being about 




' '■■ Fig. 75. 

the temperature of the room. The morning is, perhaps, the 
best time for watering, and it never should be done while 
the sun shines upon the plants. 

Plants that have flowered all the summer cannot be ex- 
pected to continue the process during the winter, as they 
must have a period of rest before they can mature. Those 



WINDOW GARDENING. 



329 



which are wanted for flowering in winter, must be started 
late in the summer from seeds or cuttings, or if started earlier 
they nmst be set away or laid down till autumn. The 
bulbous plants for winter use should be laid down in the 
shade in May, and given no water till September, when 
they may be repotted, and will become active in a few 
weeks. Cuttings for winter may be potted in midsummer. 
Monthly roses, geraniums, fuchsias, heliotropes, callas, be- 




Fig. 76. 



gonias; and for climbers, the cypress- vine, nasturtium, and 
ivy, are the plants that require the least trouble and succeed 
best. 

For supporting the pots, a window box is the cheapest; 
it can be lined with zinc, and filled in around the pots with 
moss, if desirable. A strong wire stand, set on castors, is 



330 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

very handy, as it can be moved around, and is moreover 
ornamental. 

The illustrations given in this department are intended 
to suggest the methods that may be employed in window 
gardening, and it is not deemed necessary to enter into a 
lengthy description of them. On page 329 is illustrated a 
bay-window. Below is given a good plan where the bay- 




Fig. 77. 

window is wanting, and drops a hint as to how an ivy may 
be concealed behind a mirror, with its graceful loops hang- 
ing down on each side, and a small portion j ust peeping into 
the glass. 

The cut on page 331 shows how the scroll-saw may be 
employed in window gardening. The lambrequin at the 
top is made of wood, decorated with the scroll-saw. 



WIX D OIF G A HDENING. 



881 




Fig. 78. 



332 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

We have seen shrubs employed with excellent results, in 
making a background for the more showy plants; and in 
one instance a species of maple, eight feet high, in full leaf 
in midwinter, was perhaps the most admired of the whole 
collection. 

Of course the arrangement of plants in a window or 
cabinet must depend in a great measure upon the taste of 
the possessor ; but excellent effects can be produced almost 
anywhere with small-leafed ivy, madeira-vine, smilax, and 
other hardy climbers, set off by a few showy geraniums, 
and similar flowers. 

One of the principal reasons why flowers bought on the 
streets or at the markets prove so unsatisfactory, is because 
they are placed in small pots to save room, in the damp pits 
where they are grown, and when they come to be trans- 
ferred to the sitting-room, or balcony, the earth soon 
bakes, and the flower-buds fall off without opening. 

If the common flower-pois in which the plants are gi'ow- 
ing be placed inside ornamental pots a few sizes larger, and 
the intermediate space be stuffed with wet moss, the closing 
up and fading can generally be prevented. A still better 
plan is to arrange a window box to receive the pots ; this should 
be from seven to ten inches deep, filled with earth or moss, 
and lined with zinc. 




G.Pii\F»"rRR 1^. 



PRESERVING NATURAL FLOWERS.— AN ART WORTH KNOW- 
ING. — HOW TO KEEP NATURAL FLOWERS FOR A LONG 
TIME. — PRESERVING BY THE SAND PROCESS. — THE SUL- 
PHUR PROCESS. — PRESERVING BRIDAL AND FUNERAL 
FLOWERS. — AN ELEGANT ART. — ARRANGEMENT OF FLOW- 
ERS. 

— <K>>»:o« — 



HE art of preserving flowers in their natural 
state has long been known, but the process 
Beems to have been forgotten until the increas- 
ing demand for bouquets brought it to the minds 
of the people of Germany. There are two ways 
of preserving flowers. The one used almost ex- 
clusively in Germany, and, we think, the easier 
method, is as follows: — 

The Sand Process. 



Procure a very fine quality of sand, wash it 
until all the particles of clay are dissolved, and dry it well 
by placing it on a board set slanting to allow the water to 
run off. Bake it thoroughly; and while it is warm, take 
an ounce of mutton tallow to twelve pounds of sand ; scrape 
the tallow and scatter it over the sand, stirring it in as it 
melts. Do not neglect this; for the tallow prevents the 

[333] 




384 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

sand from sticking to the flowers. Take a cigar-box or 
some other suitable box, an(i cut several holes through the bot- 
tom, over v^hich paste paper to keep the sand from escaping. 
Sift sand into the bottom of the box until it is about half an 
inch deep, using a fine sieve. Upon this carefully place a 
layer of flowers, and sift in sand enough to cover them. 
Jar the box a little with the hand to settle the sand into and 
around the flowers. Put in more flowers, and cover them 
with sand as before, continuing the operation until the box 
is full. Place the cover in tight, and put the box in a place 
where it will be kept at a steady temperature of about 80°. 
In about four days, if kept at the proper temperature, the 
flowers will be dry, and can be removed by puncturing the 
paper placed over the holes cut through the bottom of the 
box, and allowing the sand to run out. At first the flowers 
will be too brittle to be handled, and the box should be left 
in a damp place for a few hours, when the flowers will be 
ready for use. 

The Sulphur Process. 

The other process alluded to is the preservation of flowers 
by the agency of sulphur fumes. Procure a box that can 
be ina<le air-tight (one in which tea has been packed will 
do); then inside the box on opposite sides, near the top, 
fast<>n small strips of wood, and place rods across upon which 
to hang the bunches of flowers. For ventilation, bore a hole 
in one side near the bottom, into which fit a plug closely; 
arrange the flowers in loose clusters of from three to ten, 
according to size, placing a variety of flowers in each cluster. 
Hang the bunches on the rods so that they will not touch 
one another, and in the bottom of the box place a metal pan 



PBESEBVING FLOWERS. 335 

containing a small shovelful of live coals. Spread out the 
coals, and sprinkle over them about three ounces of pulver- 
ized sulphur; then place the lid on securely, and the process 
is commenced. Open the hole in the side for a few minutes, 
until you see the fumes rising, but no flame; then close the 
opening, throw a piece of heavy carpet over the box, and 
leave it for a day. Upon examination, the flowers will be 
found perfect in form, but bleached almost white. Expose 
them to the air in a dry place, and they will soon regain 
their color, but will be of a lighter shade than before 
bleaching. 

The box must be kept absolutely air-tight after the 
fumes begin to rise, and it is better to paste cloth over the 
edges and corners to make it certain that no air can pass 
through. Keep the box in a dry room. 

Preserving Bridal and Funeral Flowers. 

Every bride desires to keep the flowers she wore on her 
wedding day, and all desire to keep the wr^eath that lay on 
the breast of some dear departed one. The art of preserving 
these mementos has been kept secret, only a few professional 
florists knowing the process. It is simple enough, and we 
give it. 

The Paraffine Process. 

Let the flowers be fresh and firm,' and the color light. 
Green leaves cannot be treated; hence must be left off". 
Take the finest quality of paraffine, and melt it by placing 
it in a cup set in boiling water. Keep the paraffine in a 
liquid state by means of the warm water, and dip the 
flowers into it, being careful that the parafline is not hot 
enough to cook them. Do the work as quickly as possible, 



336 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

so as to make a very thin coating on the flowers. To pre- 
serve green leaves, coat them with green wax, or add green 
powder paint to the paraffine. 

In preserving flowers, it should be observed that those 
with a thick, full corolla, such as tulips, lilies, etc., are not 
well adapted to this purpose. When the preserving process 
is completed, the flowers should be tastefully arranged, and 
placed where they will be free from dust. Glass globes or 
bell glasses arc excellent, and if a few bleached ferns form 
the background, the effect will be pretty. 

In arranging flowei's of any kind, be careful not to 
place together those of tints which do not blend; as scarlets 
with pinks, blues with purples, etc. An intelligent under- 
standing of the harmony of colors will enable any one to 
arrange a very few and very common flowers so as to pro- 
duce excellent effects. 

Crystalizing Grass. 

. Take one pound of alum and dissolve it in one quart of 
rain-water. Tie up bunches of feathery grasses, wild rye, 
oats, bearded wheat, etc., loosely, and suspend them over a 
tub. Heat the alum-water, and pour it over them very 
slowly until every cluster is thoroughly saturated. Leave 
the bunches to dry over night, when every point will sparkle 
with crystals. Should the process fail, add more alum, and 
the next application will succeed. These grasses make very 
ornamental winter boqueis. 



-^s^m^^^ 







m 



FOR THE 




[337] 



A bunch of sumach, shining bright, 

And a stag-horn, deck the wall. 
With a string of birds'-eggs, blue and white, 

Beneath. 

— Alice Cart, in Thk Settler's Christmas Eve. 



G.Mi=^PTRK f. 



BRUSH AND PIGMENT. — PAINTING IN OIL AND WATER COLORS. 
— FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH. — PANEL PAINTING. — ■ 
PAINTING PLAQUES AND VASES. — AN ELEGANT ART. — 
BHA.UTIFYING THE HOME. — ^A NEW WARE FOR PAINTING. 
— OIL COLORS ON SILK, SATIN, AND PLUSH. — WATER COL- 
ORS. — BOWL PAINTING. 

F late years there has been a very great advance 
in the use of oil and water colors in interior dec- 
orations. Many ladies have turned their atten- 
tion to painting panels, screens, and plaques for 
adorning theii- own houses, and some have ac- 
complished most satisfactory results in painting 
on china. The following pages give the neces- 
sary instructions for the amateur who wishes to 
try her skill in this elegant art. 

The materials necessary are very few, render- 
ing the work less difficult than it seems, and at 
the same time less costly. A few camel's-hair brushes, — 
some fine, othei-s coarse, — a tile, a plate, or a piece of window 
glass to mix the paints on, a small vessel to hold turpentine, 
and a few tubes of oil-colors, to be had at any paint store, 
are the requisite materials. Some knowledge of drawing is 
necessary, so that the design to be painted may be outlined 
on the material with a pencil. Unless the person is skillful 

[339] 




340 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

in this, the outline should be drawn once or twice on paper 
before it is traced upon the material. 

No amateur should be ambitious to undertake difl&cult 
and elaborate designs at the outset. Let the advancement 
be easy. Take, for the first effort, a simple subject requir- 
ing only two or three tints. Flowers are best for beginners. 
Patience and continued practice will teach the pupil how to 
meet the difficulties in the use of brushes, colors, etc. 

In handling the brush, avoid "dabbling," and accom- 
plish as much as possible at a single stroke. It is hardly 
necessary to say that the tints are better if a brush is pro- 
vided for each color, but by careful cleaning the same brush 
may be used for several colors. In oil-colors, it is a good 
plan to squeeze the paint from the tube on blotting paper, 
so that the surplus oil may be absorbed; otherwise there is 
a risk of staining. If the paint then becomes too dry, tur- 
pentine should be used to thin it, at the same time causing 
it to dry more quickly. 

Panel Painting. 

Panels of doors, or simply oblong wall-panels of well 
seasoned wood, are now painted in oil-colors. The oblong^ 
panels look well hung upon the wall, or set upon an easel, 
a shelf, a cabinet, or the mantel. 

The materials are the ordinary tube oil-colors,^ camel's 
hair or sable brushes of several sizes, a bristle brush for 
backgrounds, and a hand rest. It should be remembered 
that panels are not pictures in the true sense, but a part of 
a picture, of which the room itself is the whole. 

The background, if the wood is not left its natural color, 
should be soft mottled blue, green, or gray, toned a little 
with warmer colors, a fleck of white here and there being 
very admissible. 



PANEL PAINTING. 341 

For Subjects, flowers painted in natural colors are most 
popular. Peach and apple blossoms, on drooping boughs, 
sprays of dogwood, or anything which suits the fancy, 
may be chosen. One author, who seems to appreciate the 
plant, recommends the hop-vine, and it really seems capable 
of excellent treatment, especially on door panels. Other sub- 
jects may be taken; as a sketch of a sailing vessel, supported 
by the branches of a piece of coral, the latter being painted 
a light pink; swallows skimming over a small lake; or a 
mischievous robin perched on a bough of ripe cherries. The 
beginner should attempt only the simplest subjects. 

Painting Plaques. 

The decoration of plaques and vases is a very elegant 
and popular employment for ladies, and is rapidly growing 
in favor. Two methods are used, one in which the plaques 
are painted and the painting is burned in, the other simply 
requires the painting without the burning. The same sug- 
gestions also apply to vases. 

Plaques for ordinary oil-colors are made of wood, paper 
Tnache, china, and porcelain, costing from fifteen cents for 
wood, to two or three dollars and even higher for porcelain, 
paper mache being the favorite. The paints and brushes 
are the same as are used for panel painting, except where 
the work is done on china, for "firing," when Lacroix's En- 
amel, or other mineral colors, must be used. 

The sizes most used are from twelve to sixteen inches in 
diameter. For a background the whole plaque may be 
painted in graduated tints of sage green, blue, or brown; or 
it may be left the natural color, j ust as the design requires. 

The Designs. — In tho selection of designs, the field is very 
wide, and ranges from a single spray of apple blossoms to 



342 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

animals, portraits, and landscapes. The picture should cover 
the plaque, not solidly, but the whole surface should be util- 
ized and the design well balanced. Sometimes a center-piece 
is painted, with a tasty border. Very many persons will be 
at a loss to make their own designs, and to such, the sug- 
gestions and designs furnished by the Art Amateur, a 
monthly Art Journal published in New York, will be of 
great use. Others need but a slight hint from which to form^ 
a very good sketch, making the details to suit their fancy. 

A very attractive picture would be a few stalks of ripe 
wheat, with a mouse perched upon one of the stalks ; a faint 
attempt at a landscape, with grass and mushrooms in the 
background, and a pale moon in the distance. Paint the 
mouse gray ; wheat, yellow ; grass, green ; mushrooms, gray 
on top and stems, under surface striped with black ; and sky, 
blue. 

Another good design is a vase of gold fish, with a young 
chicken near, and a few stems of grass rising from behind 
the vase. Paint the globe a light gray, and shade with a 
dark gray; fish, capucine red shaded with the same; chicken, 
yellow with shading of darker color of same; plants, green. 
Sprays of flowers with birds are not only very easily painted, 
but very popular. 

Imitation Barbatin or Lamoges Ware. 

A new material for oil-colors has recently made its ap- 
pearance. It is clay modeled into the forms of vases and 
jars, upon the surface of which flowers are molded in full re- 
lief. This ware is intended, when painted and varnished, 
to represent the celebrated "Barbatin" or "Lamoges" ware. 
The ordinary tube colors are used, and the taste of the 
decorator will be taxed to its utmost in the selection and 
blending of colors. The vases should be given some warm 



IMITATION BABBATIN WABE. 343 

color in lights and shades, or what would be called mottled, 
and the flowers should be painted natural colors. For the vase, 
a shaded deep green, blue,' or brown, would be appropriate. 
The varnish, of course, should be white or nearly so, as 
otherwise the brilUancy of the colors would be marred. To 
those who have not means to own the burned wares, this 
commends itself, and it is destined to be very popular, imi- 
tating, as it does, the famous and costly French wares. The 
vases are sold at first-class art and picture stores. 

Silk, Satin, and Plush. 

These three materials are sometimes painted on for ban- 
ners, panels, and screens. The materials for use are the 
same as have been spoken of, with the addition of ox gall 
spread over the designs, on silk or satin, before the painting 
is begun. 

The highest general color is applied first, in painting 
these fabrics, and the strokes of the brush should be parallel 
to the rib of the silk, that is, not across the woof. Put in the 
deepest shades last. 

There is one difficulty in this work, and that is the 
spreading of the oil in the paint. To prevent this, squeeze 
out the tube colors upon blotting paper, and let it absorb the 
oil. If the oil should then spread, rub the wrong side of the 
goods with coke magnesia, to absorb it; and when absorbed, 
brush ofi" the powder. The material should be stretched upon 
a drawing-board by means of tacks, and the outline drawn 
upon the goods with a lead pencil, or with blue or red stamp- 
ing paper. While engaged upon the design, protect the fab- 
ric from soiling as much as possible, with a sheet of paper. 
Plush is the richest of all materials for oil-colora A stiff 
brush of bristle is necessary to stamp in the colors. Mirrors 
with plush frames painted with sprays of flowers instead of 
embroidery are much admired. Designs on plush are out- 
lined with a brush and flake white. 



344 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Water Colors. — Buy only the very best, from responsi- 
ble dealers. Sometimes two or three coatings of color must 
be applied to satin and silk before the color takes on the 
proper tint. Chinese wKite is almost universally used in 
toning colors and putting in the lighter tints. Mix the white 
with the color to be toned, or apply it to the fabric, accord- 
ing to the object you wish to accomplish. 

. Transfer oil pictures are now sold which can be applied 
to silk and satin by use of a hot iron. 

Fan Painting is another field for the artist. Silk, satin, 
paper, and vellum are the materials. The fans must be se- 
cured upon a board while being painted. The walls of 
rooms are frequently adorned with gaily colored Japanese 
fans, of various sizes. 

Bowl Painting. — Wooden bowls, such as are used for 
making bread, are perhaps the latest for painting in oU. The 
entire bowl is first painted some color, — blue or gray looks well, 
— and then on the inside is painted a design covering the 
bottom and extending up the sides. The subjects which seem 
most sought after are marine views, with scenes of sun-rises. 

" At morning, flinging wide, 
Its curtain-clouds of purple and vermilion, 
Dispensing life and light on every side." 

The bowls, when completed, are hung rather high, with 
a, downward incline, in the corners of the room, and look 
well nowhere else. In the painting, minute details are to be 
avoided, as the view will be seen at a distance only. These 
ornaments take the place of corner brackets. 

Decorating Flower Pots. — Plain, smooth, red-clay flower 
pots are capable of some decoration worth mentioning ; and 
as they occupy such prominent places in the house, it is not 
strange that they should receive some attention from the 
decorator. Oil or water colors will serve the purpose. Lay 
byroad bands of dull blue around the top and bottom, cover- 
ing the intervening space with black. Now if you do not 
have transfer pictures, paste scrap chromos on the black band. 
Do not observe too much order in pasting them on, but ar- 
range them in a most disorderly manner. The efiect is ex- 
cellent, and the experiment worth trying. 



(^^j^p>/jv;^^ f J^ 



CRYSTAL AMBROTYPES, OR PHOTO-ENAMEL. — HOW TO PAINT 
PHOTOGRAPHS. — EXPLICIT DIRECTIONS FOR THE PAINT- 
ING. — MATERIALS AND THEIR USE. — DECALCOMANIA, 
OR THE ART OF TRANSFERRING PICTURES. — TRANS- 
FERRING PICTURES TO WOOD, STONE, GLASS, SILK, 
SATIN, ETC. — EASY AND INEXPENSIVE WAYS OF DEC- 
ORATING. 
1^ »oJ«to 



OUBTLESS many have admired the hand- 
somely colored photographs exhibited through- 
out the country by agents who claim to know 
the secret of the art, and the method of teaching 
it. The fact is, it is no secret, the process being 
an old one, and very simple. 

Materials Necessary for the Work. 

' The best of tube paints in flake white, orange- 
yellow, Indian red, vermillion, chrome-green, 
rose-madder, terre-verte, ivory black, Prussian 
blue, and vandyke brown, a convex glass in size to suit, 
an ounce of castor-oil and balsam of fir in equal parts, an 
ounce vial of castor-oil, adhesive paper, good mucilage, and 
camel's hair brushes in three sizes. None of these are diffi- 
cult to procure, except the convex glass. That can be ob- 
tained from any first-class picture dealer. [345] 




346 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTK 

The Process. 

Let your photograph lie m rain-water for ten or twelve 
hours; it can then be taken from the card with ease. Use 
a blotter to dry it. Clean the glass thoroughly. Cover 
the face of the photograph with mucilage, using a soft linen 
cloth, and at once place the face side next to the under side 
of the convex glass. Place soft paper over it, and work 
out all air and moisture, beginning at the center. When 
perfectly smooth, lay the picture aside for an hour, after 
which wet the entire surface with the mixture of castor-oil 
and balsam of fir, and place in the sun. In about eight 
hours the picture will become perfectly transparent. After 
it has become perfectly transparent, wipe off the picture 
with castor-oil and a linen cloth to free it from the sticki- 
ness caused by the balsam of fir. The picture is now ready 
for the paint. 

How TO Paint the Picture. 

Take a fine brush and the least possible amount of flake 
white, and touch the white spots in the eyes. Next outline 
the face, ear, nose, and mouth with a slight line of white. 
If the eyes you wish to paint are blue, use Vandyke brown 
for the pupUs, and Prussian blue mixed with a little white 
for the rest of the eye, using white for the corners. If the 
eye is brown, paint the pupil black, and the rest of the eye 
brown. The corners are painted with white and yellow 
mixed for dark eyes. For a blonde, paint the lips with 
white and rose-madder ; for a brunette, use white and Ver- 
million. For the center of the ear, use a fine paint of ver- 
million ; for the rest of the ear, white, with a slight touch of 
rose-madder. Paint the cheeks and chin of a blonde with a 



TRANSFEBBING PICTUBES. 347 

mixture of rose-madder, white, and a little touch of yellow. 
For a brunette use Vermillion instead of rose-madder. This 
mixture gives the flesh tint. Use the flesh tint beneath the 
brows and around the eyes. Add a little white to this, and 
paint around the edges of the hair, increasing the amount of 
white '^as you near the eyebrows. Use flesh tint for the 
neck. For blondes, use a background made of Prussian 
blue, rose-madder, and white; and for brunettes use white, 
rose-madder, and terre-verte, well mixed. For jewelry, use 
orange yellow mixed with a little white. For hair slightly 
gray, use ivory black and pure white mixed. For auburn 
hair, mix white, yellow ochre, and Vandyke brown. 

These pictures will remain in good condition for some 
time, but after a few years will become opaque. Good ma- 
terials are absolutely necessary. This work requires much 
patient efibrt. When the painting is all done, place the 
picture in an oval frame, such as are found at the picture 
stores. 

Decalcomania, or the Art of Transferring Pictures. 

There is no more ready process for decorating panels, 
vases, flower stands, the beds of vehicles, and, in fact, any- 
thing upon which a picture can be placed with slight cost, 
than the art of decalcomania. 

The Materials. 

The pictures for transferring are for sale in picture, 
paint, and varnish stores at very trifling cost. The other 
materials are, a small quantity of balsam of fiir, or some 
good white varnish which will dry quickly, a small sponge, 
and a brush for applying the varnish. 



348 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

How TO Transfer the Picture. 

A little practice is required to make a neat transfer. 
Clean the object- to which the picture is to be applied, and 
take great care to leave it dry and perfectly free from any 
oily substance. Apply a thin, even coating of either var- 
nish or balsam of fir to the face of the picture, and press the 
picture to the surface to which it is to be transferred. Be 
careful that the picture is never moved after it is once ap- 
plied. Smooth it down very evenly, working out every 
blister and air-hole. The next step is to remove the paper, 
which will then reveal the picture firmly stuck to the sur- 
face intended. The process of removing the paper is 
very simple, but skill is required. With the sponge, 
moisten the paper, gradually but thoroughly. This should 
be done before the varnish is quite dry. When the paper 
has been sufficiently moistened, it should be neatly peeled 
off, beginning at a corner, when, if the foregoing instruc- 
tions have been faithfully observed, the picture will be re- 
vealed firmly sticking where desired. Sometimes a portion 
©f the picture will come off with the paper ; this results from 
one of three causes, — either the varnish was not evenly 
spread, or it had not dried enough to hold the picture, or 
the paper had not been sufficiently moistened. The remedy 
is apparent. 

Among the late uses to which this method has been put 
is the transferring of pictures to silk and satin, in place of 
painting, and it may not be amiss to state that when they 
are transferred, the pictures very much resemble oil paint- 
ings. There is no reason why these pictures could not be 
transferred to any plaque or vase, making leally beautiful 
ornaments. If the pictures are not attainable at local stores, 
they can be obtained in the larger cities. 



G.HAF»a:"E.R Ilf. 



SOMETHING NOVEL IN EMBROIDERY. — FISH SCALES. — HOW- 
TO MAKE BAGS AND SACHETS. — COVER FOR A BABY'S 
CRIB. — OVAL FRAMES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS. — BASKETS. — 
A KITCHEN TABLE TRANSFORMED INTO A LIBRARY 
TABLE. — HOW TO MAKE RUGS. — SHEEPSKIN RUGS. 




i>5«<o 



JISH SCALE EMBROIDERY.— It remained for 
some ingenious admirer of the denizens of the 
deep to invent some plan by which the scales 
of fishes might be utilized for decorative pur- 
poses. The scales of any fish will answer, but 
those of perch are preferred on account of the 
variation of colors^ but usually a variety of 
scales is needed. After being removed from 
the fish, the scales must be cleaned, and while 
moist two holes punched near the roots with a 
small awl or darning needle, or short incisions 
may be made on the opposite sides, for fastening 
them on the design, after which they should be 
placed betw^een the folds of some paper to dr}^ 
Silk or satin will answer for a ground upon which to set 
the design, but velvet is also appropriate. Dark colors are 
best. To. fasten the scales, use fine silver wii'e, or light- 
colored silk will answer. To get a good design, it should 
first be drawn on paper, and the outlines pricked through 
with a pin, aftei- which the pattern should be placed on the 
material, and powdered whiting rubbed through the pin 

[349] 



850 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



holes. This will give the outline upon the material, but as 
it will soon brush oif, go over it with ordinary water colors. 
Beads may be used to make the stems of the design, and 
the flowers and leaves worked with scales. If several tints 
are desired, the scales may be varnished with bright colors 
before they are sewed on. 

A Design for Fish Scale Embroidery. — Our illustra- 
tion gives a very pretty design. The ground is of maroon- 
colored silk. Work the stem in old-gold silk twist. The 
leaves and roses are made of scales. In making the leaves, 
the silver wire must be carried across the 

scales to represent ^.f^^^^^^^^>^ the veins. And 



to make the ro 
outer circle of 
sewing thro' 
next circle 
stitches, and 
next, until 
i s reached, 
b e finished 
beads, or, if 
small, one will 
bird is worked 
eyes are each 
the beak, legs, and 
the same as the stems. 




ses, sew on the 

scales first, 

the holes ; the 

laps over the 

so with the 

the center 

which may 

with a few 

the flower 'be 

answer. The 

af5 follows: The 

ngle black bead 

claws are worked 



For the wings, the scales are sewed on 
with silver wire carried across, the diflerent sizes and colors 
of scales making up the entire bird. For pointed ends of 
wings the scales may be clipped to a point with the scissors. 
A necklace and cross of scales worked on black velvet 
make a very pretty ornament for an evening toilet. 

Bags, Sachets, eic— Reticules and bags are now very 
popular, and any lady having a desire to possess one may 
make it without great expense. Satin is the favorite, but 
plush and other materials are quite as appropriate. 

They should be made with draw-strings of satin, and 
should be embroidered or painted in some appropriate de- 
sign. Peacock's feathers, violets, pansics, dog-wood, and 
primroses are favorite subjects. The inside should be lined 



PATTERNS FOR FRAMES AND BASKETS. 351 

with some stiff material. The handle may be made of 
twisted silk cord. 

Cover for a Baby's Crib. — There was recently shown at 
the rooms of the Society of Decorative Art in New York, a 
crib cover which attracted great attention. The material 
was worked with silk, on white linen, the design, in outline, 
being several sleepy birds perched upon a branch, with a 
motto underneath, — 

" Little babes which sleep all night, 
Laugh in the face of sorrow ; 
Little birds which sleep all night 
Sing carols on the morrow." 

By way of suggestion, it might be added that the design 
might be worked on some semi-transparent goods with a 
bright lining underneath. 

Oval Picture Frames. — Very handsome frames for card 
and cabinet photographs and other small pictures, may be 
made in the following manner; Take a piece of pine board 
one-fourth of an inch thick, the size you wish your fraiiie 
to be, and with a saw cut out an oval opening in the cen- 
ter, large enough to suit the picture. Cover the board with 
velvet, plush, or silk, cutting out the center and turning the 
edges of the plush around the edges of the board, and also at 
the oval opening. Fasten the picture over the opening with 
strips of paper pasted across, and then cover the entire back 
with some colored paper. The frame may have narrow bands 
of ribbon or other colored material running diagonally from 
the edge to the oval ; or sprays of flowers may -be painted 
or embroidered across one corner, just touching the oval. 
Square frames may also be made in a similar manner. 

Imitation Coral Hanging Baskets. — Take old hoops 
with the covering on; bend and tie in any shape desired; 
tie with wrapping-twine, with ends of the twine left one- 
fourth of an inch long ; cover the basket when formed with 
knots or ties about one inch apart all over the basket. 
Then take one-half pound of bees-wax, melt in a shallow 
pan, stir in enough Japanese verraillion to get the color you 



352 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS, 

wish, then roll the basket in the melted wax until it is 
completely covered. The resemblance to red coral is very 
true, and the basket is admired by every one. We have 
seen one made in this way, that has hung- exposed to the 
weather for two years, and is still as good as new. 

Baskets for Waste Paper, etc. — Take two tapering bas- 
kets, such as peaches are shipped in, and fasten them to- 
gether, bottom to bottom, making an hour-glass shape. 
Line the inside of each basket, but use different colors, say 
one pink, the other blue ; cambric will answer for the lining. 
For a cover, select whatever material may suit the fancy, 
and work some designs in outline upon it ; fasten this cover 
to the basket from top to bottom, and draw in the middle 
with a ribbon. By selecting baskets of a proper size, they 
may be made serviceable for office use. 

It will be observed that this makes, in reality, two bas- 
kets, or rather a reversible basket. 

An Elegant Table. — An ordinary kitchen table can, 
with little trouble, be transformed into quite an elegant 
piece of furniture for the library. The top and legs are 
smoothly covered with green cloth ; the seam on the legs to 
be neatly sewed, and the joining made on the inside of the 
leg that it may not show. It is then tacked at the top to 
hold it in place. The cloth is drawn smoothly over the 
top, and tacked all around the sides. The head-piece ex- 
tending around the sides of the table must also be covered. 
An under-shelf is made of pine wood covered with cloth, 
and fitted securely to the legs about eight inches below the 
top. A heavy cord fringe of green worsted must be 
fastened around the edge of the top, also around the shelf, 
with brass-headed nails about an inch and a half apart. A 
castor fitted into each leg will finish a very handsome table 
for the parlor or library. 

How TO Make Rugs. 

Filled Rugs. — Here is a plan for making very handsome 
and serviceable rugs at little expense. The foundation is 
some strong but open cloth; as crash, drugget, or coffee 



HOW TO MAKE BUGS. 353 

sacks. The foundation should be stretched upon a frame, 
and some pretty design sketched upon it; the sketch should 
then be filled in with silk, cotton, or woolen rags of tasty 
colors. iL^ilk rags look best, of course, but worsted may be 
used with excellent effect. If the design is a good one, the 
rug will be quite satisfactory. The rags should bo drawn 
through with a large crochet needle, and the ends cut every 
stitch ; and when the work is complete, all the ends should 
be sheared off to an even length. It is hardly necessary to 
add that the foundation should be entirely concealed by the 
filling, and the wrong side lined with some coarse material. 
A fringe all around would add to the effect. 

Mugs of Sheepskin. — Here is a field for ladies who will 
take the pains to follow our suggestion, to make many 
pretty and useful articles. Wool is easily colored, either 
on the skin or in fabrics. Sheepskin with the wool on can 
be quite easily tanned. Boil the skin a short time in strong 
soap suds to which has been added some sal-.soda, and soak 
it for twelve hours in half a pound each of salt and alum 
with enough water to cover the skin; this process com- 
pletes the tanning. To dress it, procure a large board, to 
which tack the skin, flesh side out, and before it is dry 
sprinkle it with a powder of equal parts of alum and salt- 
petre. Leave it to dry for thirty hours, and then rub it 
thoroughly with pumice stone, to make it soft and pliable. 
To make a rug of the skin, the ends of the wool should be 
colored to suit the fancy, with aniline Of other dyes, after 
which it should be trimmed and lined. 

Carriage Rugs. — Very attractive carriage rugs are 
made by bordering some bright cloth with strips of the 
skin, colored to match, or to hai-monize with the center of 
the rug. 

To Conceal Flower-Pots. 

The ordinary Japanese fan has found still another use; 
viz., to conceal the unsightly sides of common flower-pots. 
Remove the rivet which holds the fan together, and in its 
place insert a wire long enough to reach around the pot. 

23 



354 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Fasten the fan around the base by means of the wire, 
spreading out the ribs of the fan so that they extend entirely 
around, and complete the work by fastening the extreme 
edges of the fan at the top. 

Simple as it is, this transforms an unsightly receptacle for 
flowers, in to one more in harmony with its surroundings. 

Pretty Lamp-ShA'Des. 

The pretty lamp-shades for sale in the stores, can be 
made at home just as well, and with much less expense. 
Procure a sheet of tissue-paper of the desired color, and cut 
it .. perfect square. Fold two opposite edges, creasing it 
through the middle; fold again the other way, thus making 
a smaller square of four thicknesses. Next fold this square 
so as to form a triangle, and then this triangle into a smaller 
one, letting the folds point to the center, until you can fold 
the paper no more. Now taking hold of the center with 
one hand, shake out the folds, and gently smooth it down, 
forming many creases. Cut out the center large enough to 
slip over the globe, and the shade is complete, unless you 
wish to fringe the edges. Cardinal, pink, violet, or light 
blue are the best colors to choose. 



(^]^^P».J^J^]^ f^^ 



ENCAUSTIC TILES. — THEIR DURABILITY. — HOW TO USE THEM. 
— PAVING HEARTHS. — COST. — MANTELS. — HOW TO GET 
THEM, — CABINETS. — HOME DECORATION OF TILES. 




oJ<«o 



O other like material presents better opportunities 
for gratifying the desire to embellish and beau- 
tify our homes, than the use of Encaustic Tiles. 
They are made of powdered clay from which 
all foreign substances have been removed ; usu- 
ally they are in squares varying from one to 
eight inches; some styles are oblong, others tri- 
angular. 

Clay can be colored all tints ; and the same 
block, by means of stamps and presses, may have 
a perfect and pleasing figure of two or more 
colors. When properly pressed and burnt, these tiles are very 
serviceable, and when the additional work of glazing is put 
on, they are well-nigh as dui-able as stone for the purposes 
intended. 

Whether required for the floors or walls of vestibules, or 
the ornamentation of heai'ths and mantels, as well as for 
other purposes of decoration, their endless variety, their 

[355] 



356 OUIi HOMES AND THEIR Al)UiL\MENrS. 

various shades and colors, combine in forming a material 
suited to purposes of ornament, and as durable as beautiful. 

Hearths and Pavements. 

A hearth or hall can be paved with tiles at a very rea- 
sonable cost, (about fifty cents per square foot,) and when 
once done, the whole always presents a neat and cosey ap- 
pearance, and is easily cleaned. 

The patterns can usually be selected from catalogues 
furnished by dealers and manufacturers. 

It is becoming popular to lay whole floors in tiles, and as 
people become better acquainted with this material, its use 
will supersede wood in many cases where durability and 
beauty are desired. 

The tile floor or hearth is laid in mortar, and presents a 
perfectly smooth surface, the joints fitting closely, and the 
whole contrasting finely with carpets and furniture. 

Mantels, Cabinets, etc. 

The panels at sides and top of mantels are frequently 
ornamented with tiles. A very attractive mantel of ebon- 
ized or other wood can be decorated in this way, and the 
whole cost is much less than for the cold and costly slate or 
marble mantel. The tiles are set in the panels, something 
after the fashion of a picture in a frame. These are more 
costly than floor tilings, as they are ornamented with all 
kinds of designs, comprising such subjects as birds, flowers, 
foliage, designs from history, Shakespeare, and the Script- 
ures. 

Panels of Cabinets, door-facings, and furniture may be 
ornamented in the same way, and where the designs consist' 



MANTELS AND CABINETS. 357 

•of geometric figures, which for the door-facings are appro- 
priate, the cost is low. Small tiles may be set into any fur- 
niture desirable, by cutting away the wood to the desired 
size, and inserting the tile with plaster or putty. As the 
field of home decoration is comparatively broad, the good 
taste of the proprietor is about the only guide as to the ex- 
tent and scope of the work. 

Such tiles can be procured six to eight inches square, at 
a cost of from $1.80 to $5.00 per dozen. Persons of decor- 
ative talent can buy the plain tiles and decorate them to 
suit their fancy, returning them to the factory to have the 
designs burned in; this practice has of late become very 
popular. 

It is advisable to consult catalogues of designs and prices 
from some reliable dealer or manufacturer, before attempt- 
ing to do very much in this style of decoration, yet there is 
no doubt that in a few years examples may be found 
in almost every home. 





LnrCEUSTi-WiLTOK 



Lincrusta- Walton is the name of a new material for 
wall and ceiling decorations, recently introduced from 
England. It is intended to supply the place of wall-paper, 
fresco, or plaster, and at the same time to give the effect 
of elegant carvings, at moderate cost. This material has 
been quite extensively used in Europe, and has met all the 
requirements of a perfect wall covering. It is composed of 
vegetable fiber and oils to make it plastic, and while in this 
state it IS stamped in many chaste patterns. By means of 
stamps, colors, bronze, and gold, it can be made to imitate 
carved wood, metals, or any other materials intended for 
walls or ceilings. 

It is not affected by variations of ^eat or cold, and may 
be washed thoroughly without injury. It is not damaged 
by the actioji of water, as samples have been exposed on the 
outside of buildings and immersed in water for one vear 
with no evil effects. 

I It would be difficult to produce a material which im- 
parts richer effects, and lends an air of more refinement to a 
room. 

Angles and joints offer no opposition to its appli- 
cation, as it is so flexible that it may be fitted to any 
surface by the use of paste, just the same as wall-paper is 
applied. ^358^ 



LINCR USTA - WALTON. 



369 



Its cost is about that of the finer qualities of wall-paper, 
but its durability and elegance recommend it, and it Is much 
more economical in the long run. A manufactory has re- 
cently been established in Connecticut, and its general use 
in all the better class of buildings seems but a question of 
time. 

This material is controlled by the Lincrusta- Walton 
Company, 41 Union Square, N. Y., and all leading dealers 
in wall decorations keep it in stock. 

The accompanying illustration gives a very clear idea of 
the material, except that it is impossible to reproduce the 
rich effects of the blending of colors upon the objects in 
relief. 




CxHi^FTRR ^. 



DYEING AND BLEACHING. 

DYEING COTTON. — HOW TO TREAT THE FABRICS. — DIREC- 
TIONS FOR ALL LEADING COLORS. — DYEING WOOLENS 
ANILINE COLORS. — COLORING STRAW HATS. — HOW TO 
MAKE MORDANTS. 




o>»io 



|yERY frugal housewife has frequent occasion to 
resort to Dyeing to restore faded but slightly 
worn garments and other articles of dress to 
the original or some other color, as well as to 
color yarns. But she has not always at hand 
the proper directions for making the dyes, and 
so many times the professional dyer is given the 
work. 

In the following pages are such direction 
and recipes as will be found of great value in 
preparing the garments for and giving them the 
desired color. It will be observed that separate directions 
are given for Cotton and Wool as it frequently happens 
that the bath intended for woolens will not color cotton the 
desired shade. 

This department contains a list of reliable and trust- 



DYEING COTTON. 361 

worthy recipes for all colors that can be made without the 
aid of an experienced dyer. The proportions are generally 
in such quantities as are needed most. In the fixation of 
color upon cloth, recourse is often had to a tnordnnt, which 
acts as a middle agent and attaches the color to the cloth. 

The principal mordants are alum, cream of tartar, and 
salts of tin. Previous to the application of any color, the 
cloth or yarn must be well cleansed from grease, oil, etc., by 
scouring in soda or soap ; and except where the material is 
to be dyed of dark color, the goods are also subjected to the 
process of bleaching. In case of fabrics which require a 
smooth surface, the preliminary operation of singeing off the 
loose hairs is resorted to. 

Note. — Many of the within Dyeing recipes are taken from the Peoples' 
Cyclopedia, a work which is pronounced by the best critics superior to 
any other Cyclopedia ever published. 

Dyeing Cotton. 

The following recipes for dyeing cotton apply to 10 
pounds weight of cotton yarn or cloth, which is found to be 
the smallest quantity capable of being well dyed at one time. 
The proportions of each ingredient may be altered, however, 
so as to correspond with the quantity to be operated upon. 

1. ComTYion Black. — Take 3 lbs. sumac, and treat with 
hot water, steeping the goods in the hot decoction for some 
hours; wring out, wash for 10 minutes in lime-water, and 
for 30 minutes in a solution of 2 lbs. copperas. 

Wash the goods well in cold water, sometimes repeating 
the treatment with lime, and rewashing; then work the 
goods for 30 minutes in a warm solution of 3 lbs. of log- 
wood, and afterward with 2 oz. copperas; work again for 
10 minutes; wash and dry. 



362 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS, 

2. Jet Black. — Proceed as at 1, adding 1 lb. of fustic 
with the logwood ; and when 3 pts. of iron liquor are used 
instead of the 2 oz. copperas, a more brilliant black is 
obtained. 

3. Blue Black. — Use indigo blue vat, then proceed as 
atl. 

4. Brown. — Treat the goods with a yellow dye, then 
work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 2 lbs. lima wood, 
and 8 oz. logwood; lift and work with 2 oz. alum for 15 
minutes, then wash and dry. 

5. Catechu Brown. — Immerse the goods at a boiling 
temperature in a decoction of catechu; then work for 
80 minutes in a hot solution of 6 oz. bichromate of pot- 
ash. Wash in hot water. If the latter contains a little 
soap, the color will be improved. 

6. French Brotvn. — Dye the goods with[a spirit yellow, 
then treat for half an hour ^nth a solution of 3 lbs. of log- 
wood; raise with a little red liquor, work for 10 minutes, 
wash and dry. 

7. B£cl. — Make a hot solution of 3 lbs. of sumac, intro- 
duce the goods, and let them stand till the liquor is cold; 
then wring out and work in water containing in each gallon 
a gill of red spirits (prepared by adding 2 oz. feathered 
tin by degrees to a mixture of 3 parts hydrochloric acid, 
1 part of nitric acid, and 1 of water), in the cold, for 
30 minutes, wring and wash well; then work the goods 
for 30 minutes in a lukewarm decoction of 3 lbs. of 
lima wood and 1 lb. of fustic, add a gill of red spirits, 
work the goods longer, wash and dry. The famous Turkey- 
red is imparted to the cloth by first impregnating it with an 
oily or fatty substance, and then subjecting it to a decoc- 
tion of madder. 



DYEING COTTON. 363 

8. Yelloiu or Straw. — Work the goods in a weak solu- 
tion of acetate of lead ; then wring out, and work in a dilute 
solution of bichromate of potash ; wring out, and work again 
in the lead solution; wash and dry. 

9. Leghorn Yellotv. — Proceed as at 8, but add a little 
annotto liquor with the solution of bichromate of potash. 

10. Spirit Yelloiu. — Work the goods through a weak 
solution of protochloride of tin for 30 minutes, then work in 
a solution of quercitron bark for 15 minutes. Lift out, and 
work again in tin solution, and wash in cold water. 

11. Orange. — Proceed as at 8, and afterward pass 
through lime-water at the boiling point, finally washing in 
cold water. 

12. Blue. — The goods are worked in various strengths 
of solution of salts of iron, such as nitrate of iron; wring 
out, wash in water, and then work in solution of yellow 
prussiate of potash ; wring out and wash in water, and then 
work in solution of yellow prussiate of alum. The various 
shades of blue may be obtained by using stronger or weaker 
solutions. 

13. Green. — Dye the cloth blue, then work in red liquor 
(acetate of alumina), wash in water, work in decoction of 
fustic or bark, raise with solution of alum; wash in cold 
water and dry. The darker shades of green, as olive or 
bottle green, are brought out by the use of sumac and log- 
wood, along with the fustic. 

14. Lilac. — Work the cloth or yarn with spirits, (see 7), 
then in logwood solution at a temperature of 140° Fahr- 
enheit, adding a little red spirits, red liquor, or alum, wash 
and dry; or dye the cloth blue (12), then work in solution 
of logwood, add alum, wash and dry. 



564 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

15. Purple. — Soak the goods in a warin decoction of 
sumac till cold, work for an hour in red spirits, wash, work 
in hot solution of logwood, then add a little red spirits, and 
work again, wash and dry. The various shades of purple 
may be obtained by altering the strength of the chemicals; 
the more sumac, the browner the hue; and the more log- 
wood, the bluer the purple becomes. 

16. Lavender or Peach. — Work the goods for 20 min- 
utes in spirit plumb (a strong solution of logwood treated 
with about one-sixth of its volume of a solution of tin; made 
by dissolving tin in 6 or 7 parts of hydrochloric acid, 1 part 
of nitric acid, and 1 of water), wring out and wash well in 
cold water. 

17. Drab. — Work the goods in a decoction of sumac, 
lift, add copperas, rework, wash in water, then work in a 
mixed decoction of fustic, lima wood, and logwood, raise 
with a little alum, wash and dry. Catechu is occasionally 
employed. 

Woolen Dyeing. 

A pound of wool woven into common merino measures 
about 3 yards, common moreen about 2 yards. 

1, Jet Black. — For 50 lbs. Prepare with 2^ lbs. chrome, 
boil half an hour, and wash in two waters. Dye with 20 
lbs. logwood and 2 lbs. fustic. Boil half an hour, in one 
water, then rinse in a slight sour, moderately warm, wash in 
one cold water, and finish out of a warm one, softened with 
a little urine. 

2. Fast Black. — ^For 50 lbs. Prepare with 2 lbs. chrome, 
1 lb. tartar, and 1 quart muriate of tin ; boil 1 hour and 
wash in 2 waters. Dve with 25 lbs. logwood and 3 lbs. 



VYEING WOOLEN. 365 

fustic. Boil 30 minutes, lift, add 1 pt. vitriol. Return for 
10 minutes, then wash and dry. To render this blue-black, 
omit the fustic. 

3. French Brown. — For 50 lbs. Preparation: 1| lbs, 
chrome. Dyeing, 6 lbs. cudbear, 1 lb. tartar; and if not 
dark enough, add 8 oz. logwood. Boil half an hour. 

4. Claret. — For 50 lbs. Preparation: \h lbs. chrome. 
Dyeing, 9 lbs. lima wood, 2 lbs. logwood, h lb. tartar. Boil 
half an hour. 

5. Purple. — For 50 lbs. Wash in a preparation of 1^ 
lbs. tartar, and 1 lb. alum; wash in 3 waters. Dye with 
10 lbs. logwood, boil half an hour, raise with 1 quart muri- 
ate of tin. 

6. Pale Blue. — For 50 lbs. 1 gill sulphuric acid, 3 oz. 
extract of indigo, 1 lb. alum. Enter cold with one-half of 
the extract, give the other half when the boiler warms. 

7. Pea Green. — For 54 lbs. 2 lbs. extract of indigo, 7 
lbs. fustic, 1 lb. alum. Bring on from the cold, when the 
boiler heats to 180° Fahrenheit, put in the fustic, boil 15 
minutes. 

8. Olive Green. — For 50 lbs. Prepare with 1| lbs. chrome; 
boil half an hour, and wash in 2 waters; then boil 12 lbs. 
fustic and 2| lbs. logwood for 1 hour; add 2 lbs. madder 
and 2 lbs. redwood. Enter; boil half an hour. Raise in 
the same liquor with 4 oz. blue-stone ; wash well and dry. 

9. Brab. — For 50 lbs. 7 lbs. fustic, 8 oz. madder, 4 oz. 
cudbear, 2 lbs. alum, 8 oz. tartar. Enter between the cold 
and 160° Fahrenheit; after heating up, boil from 10 to 30 
minutes; wash in 2 waters. All dark shades of this and 
the following color may be slightly prepared with chrome; 
wash in 2 waters. 



366 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

10. Slate. — For 50 lbs. 1 lb. logwood, 4 oz. fustic, 8 
oz. extract of indigo, 2 lbs. tartar, 2 lbs. alum. Work as 
for drab. 

11. Yellow. — For 40 lbs. 2| lbs. quercitron bark, 2 lbs. 
tartar, 2 quarts muriate of tin. Enter at 150° Fahrenheit; 
boil 80 minutes. 

1 2. Amber. — For 40 lbs. Boil 4 lbs. quercitron bark and 
8 oz. madder. Add 2 quarts muriate of tin, 1 lb. tartar. 
Enter at 200° Fahrenheit; boil 30 minutes. 

13. Orange. — For 50 lbs. Boil 10 lbs. quercitron bark 
and 1| lb. cochineal. Add 2 lbs. tartar, 2| quarts yellow 
spirits. Enter at 200° Fahrenheit; boil 30 minutes. 

14. Rose Color. — For 40 lbs. 1 lb. cochineal, 3 gills 
double muriate of tin, 1 lb. tartaric acid. Enter at 100° 
Fahrenheit, heat up; boil 15 minutes; lift, and cool to 120° 
by throwing out part of the liquor, and filling up with 
water; add 1 gill ammonia paste, 12 oz. tartaric acid, 6 oz. 
oxalic acid. Bring up to boiling; when the desired shade 
is reached, wash well and dry. 

15 Scarlet with Cochineal. — For 50 lbs. Boil 4 lbs. 
cochineal and If lb. quercitron bark. Add 3 lbs. tartar, 2 
qts. scarlet spirits. Enter at 200° Fahrenheit; boil 1 
one hour; wash well. Sour before dyeing, either cold or 
warm ; wash in 1 water and take out. 

Aniline Colors. — No mordant is necessary for these 
colors when used on silk or woolen; the proper quantity 
of clear liquid is mixed with slightly warm water, the scum 
skimmed off, and the goods entered and worked until 
the required shade is obtained. For dyeing cotton, the 
cloth is steeped in sumac or tannic acid, dyed in the color, 
and then fixed by tin; or the cloth may be sumaced 
and mordanted as usual with tin, and then dyed. 



ANILINE DYES. ' 367 

Aniline Dyes. 

The following recipes are for working pure anilines, 
and we suggest that to obtain good colors, the dyes used 
should be those of the Crown Aniline Works (T. H. Eaton 
and Son, Detroit, Mich). They can be obtained of any re- 
liable druggist who may choose to order them, or the cus- 
tomer can order direct from the manufacturers. It is very 
important to have clean soft water and clean goods to make 
good colors. To remove grease from goods, run them 
through sal-soda water. When you dye, use wood or cop- 
per vessels. 

Dissolving. — Aniline dyes of all colors should be dis- 
solved in water boiling hot, using 10 gallons of hot water to 
one pound of dye, and smaller quantities in proportion, be- 
fore being placed in the bath intended for immersing the 
goods. 

Dyeing Wool. 

Magenta. — Crimson. — Violet. — Dye in a neutral bath 
(a neutral bath is a bath of clean water only). Start at 
hand heat, and raise the temperature of the bath to below 
boiling point, but do not boil. The amount of dye to be 
used will depend upon the color you want to produce; the 
goods may be raised from time to time, and more dye 
added. Care should be taken to turn the goods well while 
in the bath ; wash in clean cold water, wring, and dr}-. 

For Silk, dye as above, only add a little dissolved Mar- 
seilles soap. 

Scarlets and Cardinals. — For 50 pounds of goods, 
(smaller quantities in proportion), take one pound cochineal 



368 OU^ EQMEU AND TEEIB ADOUNMENTS. 

substitute, or one pound cardinal red, dissolve, and add to a 
bath soured with oil of vitriol until the bath is about as sour 
as weak vinegar; enter the goods at hand heat, turn well 
while raising to the boil, and boil 30 minutes. Wash in 
cold water, wring, and dry. 

Silk is dyed in the same manner, only use strong vine- 
gar to sour the bath, and a some Marseilles soap. 

Scarlet and cardinal are fast colors, and will not fade. 

Pink. — For 50 pounds, take J pound of eosine, dissolve 
and add to a bath containing 5 lbs. of alum ; bring to the 
boil, but do not boil long. 

Orange. — Dye the same as scarlet ; use Orange I. 

Acid or Navy Blue. — For 50 pounds of goods, take one 
pound navy or any acid blue, dissolve the blue, and add 
to a bath containing oil of vitriol sufficient to make it as 
sour as weak vinegar; boil gdbds for one hour, wash well in 
cold water, wring, and dry. 

Nicholson Blue {Fast Blue). — For 50 pounds of goods,, 
take I pound 3 B, Nicholson blue, dissolve, and add 
to a bath containing 5 pounds sal-soda. Enter the 
goods, and work to the boiling point, boiling 30 minutes; 
then take out and wash in clean cold water. Prepare a 
second bath of clean water, make it sour to taste with oil 
of vitriol, bring the bath to hand heat, enter the goods, 
and bring to boiling point. Wash well in cold water, 
wring, and dry. 

Seal Brown. — For 50 pounds of goods, dissolve one 
pound mode brown in 5 gallons boiling water; make your 
bath quite sour with oil of vitriol, add 5 pounds of glauber 



USEFUL SUGGESTIONS. ,369 

salts. Enter the goods, boil 30 minutes, wash in cold water, 
and dry. 

Yellow. — Dye with acid yellow, and work same as 
scarlet. 

Green. — Dye with Frankfort green the same as for fast 
blue. 

Anilines are not adapted for domestic cotton dyeing, but 
a good color can be made with cotton blue by working in 
a bath of clear water containing cotton blue, alum, and 
glauber salts. For 50 pounds of goods, ^ pound blue, 2^ 
pounds alum, and 2 pounds glauber salts. 

Useful Suggestions. 

In accommodation to the requirements of dyers, many of 
the recipes describe dyes for large quantities of goods; but 
to make them equally adapted for the use of private fami- 
lies, they are usually given in even quantities, so that it is 
quite an easy matter to ascertain the quantity of materials 
required for dyeing, when once the weight of the goods is 
known, the quantity of materials used being reduced in 
proportion to the smaller quantity of goods. 

Use soft water for all dyeing purposes, if it can be pro- 
cured, using 4 gals, water to 1 lb. of goods ; for larger quan- 
tities, a little less water will do. Let all the implements 
used in dyeing be kept perfectly clean. Prepare the goods 
by scouring well with soap and water, washing the soap out 
well' and dipping in warm water, previous to immersion in 
the dye or mordant. Goods should be well aired, rinsed, and 
properly hung up after dyeing. Silks, and fine goods should 
be tenderly handled, otherwise injury to the fabric will re- 
sult. 24 



370 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Mordants are solutions used to fix colors and may be 
made from several common chemicals. A good one is made 
by mixing copperas and acetate of iron in proportion of 
four of the former to six of the latter. Immerse the cotton 
or linen to be colored, in this before putting in color vat. 
Mordants must be used in dyeing cotton fabrics, as they fix 
the color. 

Before using Cudbear, it must always be drenched with 
a little hot water, to the consistency of paste ; then scald or 
boil it as occasion may require. 

A solution of tannin or smnac makes a good mordant. 
Alum or cream of tartai' will answer. 

''Sour," referred to in some recipes, is made by stirring 
into clean water enough sulphuric acid to give a sharp taste. 
The acid can be procured at any druggist's. 

To Color Straw Hats or Bonnets a Beautiful Slate. 
— First, soak the bonnet m rather strong warm suds for 15 
minutes, to remove sizing or stiffening ; then rinse in warm 
water, to get out the soap; now scald cudbear, 1 oz., in suf- 
ficient water to cover the hat or bonnet; work the bonnet 
in this dye, at 180" of heat, until you get a light purple; 
now have a bucket of cold water, blued with the extract of 
indigo, |- oz., and work or stir the bonnet in this until the 
tint pleases; dry, then rinse out with cold water, and dry 
again in the shade. If you got the purple too deep in 
shade, the final slate will be too dark. 

Dye for Feather's. — Black: Immerse for two or three 
days in a bath, at first hot, of logwood, eight parts, and cop- 
peras or acetate of iron, one part. Blue: with the indigo vat. 
Brown : by using any of the brown dyes for silk or woolen. 
Orimson: a mordant of alum, followed by a hot bath of 



DIRECTIONS FOB BLEACHING. 371 

Brazil-wood, afterward by a weak dye of cudbear. Pink 
or Rose: with saf -flower or lemon juice. Plum: with 
the red dye, followed by an alkaline bath. Red: a mor- 
dant of alum, followed by a bath of Brazil-wood. Yel- 
low : a mordant of alum, followed by a bath of turmeric or 
weld. Green Dye: take of verdigris and verditer, of 
■each one ounce, gum water 1 pt. ; mix them well, and dip 
the feathers, they having been first soaked in hot water, 
into the said mixture. For Purple, use lake and indigo 
For Carnation, vermilion and smalt. Thin gum of 
starch water should be used in dyeing feathers. 

Bleaching. 

To Bleach Sponge. — Soak it well in dilute muriatic 
acid for twelve hours. Wash well with water to remove 
the lime, then immerse in a solution of hyposulphate of soda,, 
to which dilute muriatic acid has been added a moment be- 
fore. After it is bleached sufficiently, remove it, wash 
again, and dry. It may thus be bleached almost white. 

To Whiten Lace. — Lace may be restored to its original 
whiteness by first ironing it slightly, then folding it, and 
sewing it into a clean linen bag, which is placed for twenty 
hours in pure olive-oil. Afterward the bag is to be boiled 
in a solution of soap and water for fifteen minutes, then well 
rinsed in lukewarm water, and finally dipped into water 
containing a slight proportion of starch. The lace is then 
to be taken from the bag, and stretched on pins to dry. 

Bleaching Stvaiv Goods. — Straw is bleached by simply 
exposing it in a closed chamber to the fumes of burning sul- 
phur, an old flour barrel is the apparatus most used for the 
purpose by milliners, a flat stone being laid on the ground, 



372 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

the sulphur ignited thereon, and the barrel containing the 
goods to be bleached turned over it. The goods should be 
previously washed in pure water. 

To Clean Ostrich Feathers. — Cut some white curd soap 
in small pieces, pour boiling water on it and add a little 
pearlash. When the soap is quite dissolved, and the mixt- 
ure cool enough for the hand to bear, plunge the feathers 
into it, and draw them through the hand till the dirt ap- 
pears squeezed out of them, pass them through a clean lather 
with some blue in it, then rinse them in cold water with 
blue to give them a good color. Beat them against the 
hand to shake off the water, and dry by shaking them 
near a fire. When perfectly dry, coil each fiber separately 
with a blunt knife, or ivory folder. 

Bleaching Powder. — Chloride of lime makes a good 
bleaching powder. The stuff to be bleached is first boiled 
in lime-water; wash, and without drying, boil again in a 
solution of soda or potash ; wash, and without drying, steep 
in a weak mixture of chloride of lime and water for six 
hours ; wash, and without drying, steep for four hours in a 
weak solution or mixture of sulphuric acid and water; wash 
well and dry. Upon an emergency, chlorate of potash, mixed 
with three times its weight of common salt and diluted in 
water, may be used as a bleaching liquid. 

Bleaching Ivory. — Antique works in ivory that have 
become discolored may be brought to a pure whiteness by 
exposing them to the sun under glasses. It is the particular 
property of ivory to resist the action of the sun's rays, when 
it is under glass; but when deprived of this protection, to 
become covered with a multitude of minute cracks. Many 
antique pieces of sculpture in ivory may be seen, which. 



DIRECTIONS FOR BLEACHING. 373 

although tolerably white, are, at the same tune, defaced by 
numerous cracks; this defect cannot be remedied; but in 
order to conceal it, the dust may be removed by brushing 
the work with warm water and soap, and afterward placing 
it under glass. Antique works in ivory that have become 
discolored, may be brushed with pumice-stone, calcined and 
diluted, and while yet wet placed under glasses. They 
should be daily exposed to the action of the sun, and be 
turned from time to time, that they may become equally 
bleached; if the brown color be deeper on one side than the 
other, that side will, of course, be for the longest time ex- 
posed to the sun. 

To Bleach Prints and PHnted Books. — Simple im- 
mersion in dilute muriatic acid, letting the article remain in 
it a longer or shorter space of time, according to the strength 
of the liquor, will be sufficient to whiten an engraving ; if it 
be required to whiten the paper of a bound book, as it is 
necessary that all the leaves should be moistened by the 
acid, care must be taken to open the book well, and to make 
the boards rest on the edge of the vessel, in such a manner 
that the paper alone shall be dipped in the liquid ; the leaves 
must be separated from each other, in order that they may 
be equally moistened on both sides. The Uquor assumes a 
yellow tint, and the paper becomes white in the same pro- 
portion. At the end of two or three hours the book may be 
taken from the acid liquor, and plunged into pure water 
with the same care and precaution as recommended in re- 
gard to the acid liquor, that the water may touch both sides 
of each leaf. The water must be renewed every hour, to 
extract the acid remaining in the paper, and to dissipate the 
disagreeable smell. Printed paper may also be bleached by 
sulphuric acid, or by alkaline or soap leys. 



374 



OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



Washing Fluid. — Take 1 lb. sal-soda, | lb, good un- 
slaked lime, and 5 qts. of water; boil a short time, let it 
settle, and pour off the clear fluid into a stone jug, and cork 
for use ; soak your white clothes over night in simple water, 
wring out and soap wristbands, collars, and dirty or stained 
places; have your boiler half filled with water just begin- 
ning to boil, then put in one common tea-cupful of this fluid, 
stir and put in your clothes, and boil for half an hour, then 
rub lightly through one suds only, and all is complete. 




«!-A_3 



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Household Cmpendi um 



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-A. 

^KW^HIS department embraces a list of Eecipes, many of 
^1^ which have appeared in no other work, and the whole 

Tlist may be relied upon as practical, easy, and effective. 
The following classification of subjects has been intro- 
duced for the benefit of the reader : Hints on Health, Hints 
on Home Adornments, Toilet Eecipes, Dyeing and Bleach- 
ing, Cleaning and Scouring, Yarnishes and Paints, Cements, 
•nd Miscellaneous Recipes. 



[376] 






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fOUSEHOLD iOMPENDraM. 



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elCii4^t> oi^i elCea^Wv. 



DISINFECTANT FOR SICK-ROGMS.— Let 
a reliable apothecary put up for you in a small 
bottle four ounces of ninety per cent alcohol and 
one ounce of thirty-six per cent nitric acid. 
One-half of this mixture will disinfect a room 
fifty feet long, thirty feet wide, and twelve feet 
high. One large spoonful of it (one-half ounce) 
will disinfect a large bed-room containing 1,200 
cubic feet of air-space. Two tea-spoonfuls of it 
(two drachms) will disinfect a bed-room nine feet 
square, and seven and one-half feet high. A 
tea-spoonful (one drachm) is sufficient for 800 cubic feet of 
air-space. 

The method of using the mixture is as follows: Put the 
quantity to be used in a porcelain capsule (a tea saucer will 
do), set a pan of warm water in the room to be disinfected ; 
let the capsule or saucer containing the disinfectant float on 
the surface of the warm water. The mixture in the float- 

[377] 




378 OC/U HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

ing capsule or saucer will evaporate by the heat of the water, 
and the vapor will effectively disinfect. Do n't try to evap- 
orate it on a stove, over a lamp, or by a fire ; mischief would 
result. Use exactly warm water to effect evaporation and 
nothing else. Use only porcelain to hold the mixture, for it 
will corrode metal. It will also spoil a good spoon. Label 
the bottle "poison," for it would be very dangerous to take 
it instead of medicine. The chemist will perceive that the 
disinfecting vapor evolved is nitrate of ethyl. The alcohol 
is in excess and so saturates the acid products of the reac- 
tion that they are not disagreeable, while they are equally 
effective. 

The material, in the quantity necessary to use, is very 
cheap, and the method of using it, when clearly understood, 
is very simple. The vapor evolved, while inoffensive, de- 
stroys infected dust and germs of putrefaction floating in 
the air of a sick-room. It is excellent for hospitals and 
public buildings; only, in large spaces, the quantity used 
should be divided and evaporated in different parts of the 
room. It is sufiicient to use it once a day. 

Hygienists are indebted to a French scientist, M. Ley- 
russon, for this ingenious, cheap, and simple method of dis- 
infecting sick-rooms, without danger or even annoyance to 
the inmates. It has been very recently published in France. 

The Best Deodorizer. — Use bromo-chloralum in the pro- 
portion of one to eight table-spoonfuls of soft water ; dip cloths 
in this solution and hang in the rooms; it will purify sick- 
rooms of any foul smells. The surface of anything may be 
purified by washing well and then rubbing over with a 
weakened solution of bromo-chloralum. A weak solution is 
excellent to rinse the mouth with often, when from any 



HINTS ON HEALTH. 379 

cause the breath is offensive. It is also an excellent wash 
for sores and wounds that have an offensive odor. 

Lime-Water. — One of the most useful agents of house- 
hold economy, if rightly understood, is lime-water. Its 
mode of preparation is as follows: Put a stone of fresh un- 
slacked lime about the size of a half -peck measure into a 
large stone jar or unpainted pail, and pour over it slowly 
and carefully (so as not to slacken too rapidly), a tea-kettle 
full (four gallons), of hot water, and stir thoroughly; let it 
settle, and then stir again two or three times in twenty-four 
hours. Then carefully bottle all that can be poured off in 
a clear and limpid state. 

It is often sold by druggists as a remedy for children's 
summer complaints, a tea-spoonful being a dose in a cup of 
milk, and when diarrhea is caused by acidity of the stomach, 
it is an excellent remedy, and when put into milk gives no 
unpleasant taste, but rather improves the flavor. It may 
also be put into milk that is to be used for puddings and 
and pies, to prevent its curdling. A little stirred into cream 
or milk, after a hot day or night, will prevent its turning 
when used for tea or coffee. 

It is unequaled in cleansing bottles or small milk-vessels, 
or babies' nursing bottles, as it sweetens and purifies with- 
out leaving an unpleasant odor or flavor. A cupful, or even 
more, mixed in the sponge of bread or cakes made over 
night, will prevent souring. 






380 OUR HOMES AND TBEIB ADORNMENTS. 

Preserving Autumn Leaves. — These may be easily pre- 
served and retain their natural tints, or nearly so, by either 
of the followingf methods: — 

As they are gathered they may be laid between the 
leaves of a magazine or large book until it is full, and left 
with a light weight upon them until the moisture in the 
leaves has been absorbed. Two or three thicknesses of paper 
should intervene between the leaves. If they are large or 
in clusters, take newspapers, lay them on a shelf, and use 
them as with a book. 

When the leaves have become perfectly dry, dip them in 
melted white wax into which you have put a few drops of 
turpentine, and lay them on clean papers to dry ; this will 
make the leaves pliable and natural, and give them suffi- 
cient gloss. Great care should be used to make the wax 
just hot enough, the temperature being ascertained by the 
first leaf dipped in. Draw it gently out of the wax and 
hold it up, — if the wax is too hot, the leaf will shrivel ; if too 
cool, the wax will adhere in lumps. Leaves preserved in 
this way make chaste and attractive ornaments, if grouped 
in graceful figures. 

Skeletonizing Leaves. — For the leaves, maple ones and 
those that have a pretty shape are the best: To one pound 
of soda-ash add two quarts of soft water. After it is all 
disvsolved by boiling, add as many leaves as your dish will 
hold ; lay them in flat, boil until the epidermis will come off 
easily. Try a leaf in cold water, and if only the veins 
remain they are done sufficiently. Clean them with an old 



HINTS ON HOME DECORATION 381 

tooth-brush, and supply the missing stems with fine wire. 
After they are well cleaned put them in a solution of chlo- 
ride of hme to bleach, ten cents' worth of lime is enough 
for leaves and ferns too. Gather the young ferns and put 
them in the solution of lime you have for your leaves, not 
the soda-ash, only the bleaching solution. Float them on 
stiff paper and put them in books to dry, after washing 
thoroughly in clear water to prevent them from turning 
yellow. Poppy-heads are very fine, also Molven balm fixed 
in this way is lovely for winter bouquets. Add more 
water to the leaves as it boils away. 

For Crystallizing Grass. — Ladies who admire beautiful 
bouquets of grasses, will appreciate the following recipe: — 

Take one and one-half pounds of rock alum, pour on 
three pints of boiling water; when quite cool put into a 
wide-mouthed vessel, hang in your grasses, a few at a time. 
Do not let them get too heavy, or the stems will not support, 
them. You may 'again heat alum and add more grasses. 
By adding a little coloring matter it will give pleasing vari- 
ety. 

To Imitate Ground-Glass Windows. — Put a piece of 
putty weighing about six ounces into a muslin bag so as to 
form a smooth surface. After thoroughly cleaning the 
glass, pat it all over with the bag of putty, which being 
forced out through the muslin, will cover the glass. Let 
this dry hard, and varnish with shellac or white varnish. 
If still more time and pains are taken, the glass can be 
made to represent ground glass almost perfectly. Cut 
from stiff paper any graceful geometric or other pattern, 
paste it on the glass, and go over the part not covered by 
the pattern, as above. After the putty is dry, remove the 



382 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

pattern and paste with water. This plan is especially 
adapted to glass in doors. 

Ebonizing Wood. — The following is a recipe used by 
furniture manufacturers for the now popular style of ebon- 
izQd. wood: Logwood chips 8 oz., water q. s., copperas 
I oz. Boil the logwood in one gallon of water for half an 
hour, and add the copperas. Apply to the wood hot, giv- 
ing two or three coats. In varnishing ebonized wood, a 
little drop black must be added, or the varnish will give a 
brown shade. 



The publishers have been at no small expense in secur- 
ing recipes for this work, and can assure their patrons that 
they have all been tested by experience. 

The toilet recipes have been furnished by a druggist of 
long standing, many of the formulas not having been given 
the public before. 

The Hair. 

Hair Gloss. — Glycerine 6 oz., cologne 2 oz. Mix and 
use to moisten the hair. 

Hair Oil. — Castor oil 6 oz., cologne spirits or alcohol 
2 oz. Perfume with bergamont or other desirable perfume. 

Hair Wash for Cleaning the Scalp. — Salts of Tartar -J 
oz., alcohol ^ of a pt., rain-water 1 pt., rose-water | pt. Mix 
and dissolve. If a profuse lather is desired, add more tartar. 

Hair Lotion, To Prevent Hair from Falling Out. — 
Rose-water 15 oz., glycerine 1 oz., acjua ammonia 1 dr., 
tincture of cantharides 2 dr. Mix, and use once a week. 



TOILET RECIPES. 383 

To Glean Hair-Brushes. — Use spirits of ammonia and 
hot water; wash them well and shake the water out, and 
they will be white and clean. Use no soap. 

To Beautify the Hair. — 2 oz. of olive oil, 4 oz. of good 
bay-tum, and 1 dr. of the oil of almonds. Mix and shake 
well. It renders the hair dark and smooth. 

The Teeth. 

To Beautify the Teeth. — Dissolve 2 oz. of borax in three 
pints of boiling water, and before it is cold add one tea-spoon- 
ful of spirits of camphor ; bottle it for use. Use a tea-spoon- 
ful of this with an equal quantity of tepid water. 

Tooth Powder. — Precipitated chalk 4 oz., orris root 2 oz., 
rose pink | dr., oil of cloves 4 drops, oil winter-green \ dr. 
Rub the oils with the powder, sift, and the powder is ready 
for use. It should be kept in a bottle. 

Tooth Wash. — Diluted alcohol | pint, borax, honey, gum 
myrrh, and red saunders, each \ oz. Preparation. — Rub 
the honey and borax together in a bowl or mortar, and 
gradually add the alcohol ; add the myrrh and saunders, and 
allow the whole to stand fourteen days, when it may be 
filtered or strained. If some cologne is used instead of the 
alcohol, it will improve the wash. 

The Face and Hands. 

Bloom of Roses. — Rose-water 8 oz., carmine, No. 40, .1 dr., 
aqua ammonia J oz. Pulverize the carmine to a fine pow- 
der, add the aqua ammonia; and when the powder is en- 
tii'ely dissolved, add the rose-water. This is a very delicate 
and harmless cosmetic. 

Bloom of Youth. — Rose-water 1 pt., oxide of bismuth 4 



384 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

oz. Powder the bismuth and agitate with the rose-water. 
This wash can be colored pink by adding a little carmine. 

Violet Powder. — ^Arrow root powdered, or wheat starch, 
4 oz., powdered orris root 1 oz., oil of lemon 5 drops, oil of 
cloves and bergamot, each 4 drops. Stir the oils with the 
powder until thoroughly mixed. 

Aromatic Vinegar for the hands and face. — Acetic acid 
8 oz., oil lavender 2 dr., oil rosemary 1 dr., oil cloves 1 dr., 
camphor gum 1 oz. Dissolve the camphor in the acetic 
acid and add the oils. After remaining for a few days, 
strain, and it is ready for use. 

Camphor Ice. — \ oz. each of camphor gum and white 
wax, spermaceti and sweet oil; melt slowly the hard ingre- 
dients, and then add the oil. 

Cold Cream. — 4 oz. sweet almond oil, 2 oz. rose-water 
2 oz. white wax, 2 oz. cocoa butter, 2 oz. spermaceti; put 
a bowl in a pan of boiling water; cut the spermaceti, 
white wax, and cocoa butter in small pieces; put them in 
the bowl, also the oil and rose-water. When melted, stir 
contents until cold. 

For the Hands. — | oz. of glycerine with same amount of 
alcohol. Mix, and add 4 oz. of rose-water. Bottle, and 
shake well. An excellent remedy for rough or chapped 
hands. 

To Take Stains off the SJcin. — For cleaning the hands 
when stained with chemicals: Put \ lb. glauber salts, ^ lb, 
chloride of lime, and 4 oz. of water into a small wide- 
mouthed bottle, and when required for use pour some of 
the mixture into a saucer and rub it well over the hands 
with a brush or coarse towl, and wash them in warm water. 

Acacia Sachet. — Exquisite and cheap perfume for the 
glove box or drawer: — 



VABNISHES. 385 

Cassia buds and orris r<x)t, 2 oz. of each, in moderately 
fine powder. Sew up in a bag of silk. 

Pof-Pourri Sachet Poiuder.—Rose and lavender leaves, 2 
oz. each, in coarse powder, coarse powdered orris root 1 oz., 
cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, each } oz. Mix well, and 
put into bags of fancy colored silk, or into envelopes. 

To Varnish Furniture. — First make the work quite 
clean; then fill up all knots or blemishes with cement of the 
same color; see that the brush is clean, and free from loose 
hairs; then dip the brush in the varnish, stroke it along the 
wire raised across the top of the varnish pot, and give the 
work a thin and regular coat ; soon after that another, and 
another, always taking care not to pass the brush twice in 
the same place; let it stand to dry in a moderately warm 
place, that the varnish may not chill. When the work has 
had about six or seven coats, let it get quite hard (which 
prove by pressing the knuckles on it; if it leaves a mark, it 
is not hard enough) ; then with the first three fingers of the 
hand rub the varnish till it chafes, and proceed over that 
part of the work intended to be polished, in order to take 
out all the streaks or partial lumps made by the brush ; then 
give it another coat, and let it stand a day or two to harden. 
Varnish for Comrrion Work. — This varnish is intended 
for protecting surfaces against atmospheric exposure. It 
has been used for coating wood and iron work with great 
advantage. Take 3 lbs. of resin and powder it, place it in 
a tin can, and add 2| pints of spirits of turpentine, shake 
well, and let it stand, shaking it occasionally for a day or 

25 



386 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

two. Then add 5 qts. of boiled oil, shake well together, 
and allow it to stand in a warm room till clear. The clear 
portion is decanted and used, or reduced with spirits of tur- 
pentine until of the proper consistency. 

Table Varnish. — Oil of turpentine 1 lb., beeswax 2 
oz., colophony 1 dr. Or, dammar resin 1 lb., spirits of tur- 
pentine 2 lbs., camphor 200 grains. Digest the mixture 
for twenty-four hours. The decanted portion is fit for im- 
mediate use. 

Turpentine Varnish. — To 1 pt. of spirits of turpentine 
add 10 oz. clear resin pounded; put it in a tin can on a 
stove, and let it boil for half an hour. When the resin is all 
dissolved, let it cool, and it is ready for use. 

Varnishes for Furniture. — Shellac 1| lbs., naphtha 1 
gal. ; dissolve, and it is ready without filtering. 

Another recipe is, shellac 12 oz., copal 3 oz. (or an equiv- 
alent of varnish) ; dissolve in 1 gallon of naphtha. 

Common Varnish. — Digest shellac 1 part, with alcohol 
7 or 8 parts. 

White Furniture Varnish. — White- wax 6 oz., oil of 
turpentine 1 pint ; dissolve by gentle heat, taking care not 
to set the turpentine on fire. Apply in usual way. 

Furniture Polish. — Melt three or four pieces of sanda- 
rach, each of the size of a walnut, add 1 pint of boiled oil, 
and boil together for 1 hour. While cooling add 1 dr. of 
Venice turpentine, and if too thick a little oil of turpentine 
also. Apply this all over the furniture, and after some 
hours rub it off ; rub the furniture daily, without applying 
fresh varnish, except about once in two months. Water 
• does not injure this polish, and any stain or scratch may be 
again covered, which cannot be done with French polish. 



VARNISHES AND POLISH. 387 

French Polish. — Gum shellac 2 oz., gum arable h oz., 
gum copal ^ oz. Powder, and sift through a piece of mus- 
lin ; put them in a closely corked bottle with 2 pts. spirits of 
wine, in a very warm situation, shaking every day till the 
gums are dissolved; then strain through muslin and cork 
for use. 

Varnish for Water-proof Goods. — Let a I lb. of India- 
rubber, in small pieces, soften in | lb. of oil of turpentine, 
then add 2 lbs. of boiled oil, and boil for 2 hours over a slow 
fire. When dissolved, add 6 lbs. of boiled linseed oil, aad 1 
lb. of litharge, and boil until an even liquid is obtained. 
Apply warm. 

Varnish for Boots and Shoes. — Take a pint of linseed 
oil, with I lb. of mutton suet, the same quantity of bees-wax, 
and a small piece of resin. Boil all this in a pipkin together, 
and use it when milk- warm with a hair brush ; two appli- 
cations will make the articles water-proof. 

Beautiful Bronze, Applicable to all Metals. — Take 10 
parts aniline red (fuchsine), and 5 of aniline purple, and 
dissolve in 100 parts of 95 per cent alcohol, taking care to 
help the solution by placing the vessel in a sand or water 
bath. As soon as the solution is effected, 5 parts of benzoic 
acid are added, and the whole is boiled from 5 to 10 min- 
utes until the greenish color of the mixture is transformed 
into a fine light-colored brilliant bronze. Apply with a 
brush. 

Golden Varnish. — Pulverize 1 drachm of saffron and | 
drachm of dragon's blood, and put them into 1 pint spirits 
of wine. Add 2 oz. of gum shellac and 5 drachms of soco- 
trine aloes. Dissolve the whole by gentle heat. Yellow 
painted woi-k, varnished with this mixture, will appear al- 
most equal to gold. 



388 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Varnish for Iron-work. — Dissolve, in about 2 lbs. of tar 
oil, ^ lb, of asphaltum, and a like quantity of pounded resin, 
mix hot in an iron kettle, care being taken to prevent any 
contact with the flame. When cold, the varnish is ready 
for use. This varnish is for out-door wood and iron work. 

Imitation Nickel Plating. — Coarse rasped granulated 
zinc is boiled for some time in a mixture of 3 parts by 
weight of sal ammoniac, and 10 of water, the objects im- 
mersed and stirred up with a zinc rod. The deposit is sil- 
very bright, and resists mechanical action as well as a coat- 
ing of nickel. The process can be recommended for goods 
which are meant for a second coating of some other metal, 
since any other is easily deposited on zinc. 

Interesting to Nickel Platers. — A simple process of 
nickel plating by boiling has been described by Dr. Kaiser. 
A bath of pure granulated tin tartar and water is prepared, 
and after being heated to the boiling point, has added to it 
a small quantity of pure red-hot nickel oxide. A portion 
of the nickel will soon dissolve and give a green color to the 
liquid over the grains of tin. Articles of copper or brass 
plunged into this bath acquire in a few minutes a bright 
metallic coating of almost pure nickel. If a little carbonate 
or tartrate of cobalt is added to the bath, a bluish shade, 
either light or dark, may be given to the coating, which be- 
comes very brilliant when it is properly polished with chalk 
or dry sawdust. 

After the ground is fairly closed up by frost for the winter, 
it will be an excellent time to paint the house, barn, and other 
farm buildings, and all the farm implements and carriages 



REPAINTING CARRIAGES. 389 

that need it. Paint spread at this season of the year makes 
a durable covering, and there are no flies or other insects to 
spoil its looks after being spread, as during the hot days of 
summer. 

If the carriages and farm implements can be stored in a 
clean apartment, free from wind and dust, painting may go 
on uninterruptedly by doing the outside work in fair 
weather and the carriage work during rainy days. 

Repainting CaTriages. — Previous to repainting or re- 
varnishing any old coach- work, it is necessary first to wash 
the work quite clean, and also to rub down the surface with 
a wet cloth and ground pumice powder, untU it appears 
quite dead, or without gloss. The work should then be 
washed, and dried with a wash-leather ; after which it is fit 
to receive either paint or varnish. Old work is frequently 
dirty, greasy, and strongly impregnated with various exha- 
lations, very injurious to paint- work and varnish, from its 
being kept shut up in cold, damp coach-houses, which have 
often doors or passages communicating with stables, latrines, 
and so on. If therefore it be repainted or revarnished, with- 
out having been well washed and rubbed down, it seldom or 
never dries properly, owing to the exhalations with which 
the surface is in general incrusted; and should the surface 
be even clear from grease, no paint or varnish will adhere, 
or can be well applied, on the old glossy surface, without its 
having been first rubbed down with the pumice powder and 
water, as that entirely removes all stains, grease, and gloss 
from the surface. Paint or varnish will then adhere to the 
old ground, and can be easily worked and extended with 
the brush, without the color cissing, as it is termed. Var- 
nish is very apt to ciss on old work, if the second coat is not 



390 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

applied as soon as the first coat is hard enough to beax 
varnishing. 

Economical Paint. — Skim -milk 2 qts., fresh-slacked 
lime 8 oz., linseed oil 6 oz., white Burgundy pitch 2 oz., 
Spanish white 3 lbs. The lime to be slaked in water ex- 
posed to the air, mixed in one-fourth of the milk ; the oil in 
which the pitch is previously dissolved, to be added a little 
at a time; then the rest of the milk, and afterward the 
Spanish white. This quantity is sufficient for 27 sq. yds., 
two coats. 

To Remove Old Paint. — Wet the place with naphtha, 
repeating as often as is required ; but frequently one apph- 
cation will dissolve the paint. As soon as it is softened, rub 
the surface clean. Chloroform, mixed with a small quan- 
tity of spirit ammonia, composed of strong ammoniac, has 
been employed very successfully to remove the stains of dry 
paint from wood, silk, and other substances. 

To Destroy Paint. — Mix 1 part by weight of potash 
with 3 parts quick-lime, by slaking the lime in water and 
then adding the potash, making the mixture about the con- 
sistency of paint. Lay the above over the whole of the 
work required to be cleaned, with an old brush; let it re- 
main 14 or 16 hours, when the paint can be easily scraped 
off. 

Fire-proofing Shingle Roofs. — A wash composed of lime, 
salt, and fine sand or wood-ashes, put on in the ordinary 
way of whitewash, renders a shingle roof fifty-fold more safe 
against fire from falling cinders, in case of fire in the vi- 
cinity. It has also a preserving influence against the effect 
of the weather; the older and more weather-beaten the 
shingles, the more benefit derived. Such shingles are gen- 



DIFFERENT KINDS OF PAINT. 391 

erally more or less warped, rough, and cracked. The appli- 
cation of wash, by washing the upper surface, restores them 
to their original or firm form, thereby closing the space be- 
tween the shiugles ; and the lime and sand, by filling up the 
cracks, prevent its warping. By the addition of a small 
quantity of lamp-black, the wash may be made of the same 
color as old shingles, and thus the ofiensive glare of a white- 
washed roof is removed. 

Paint for Blackboards in Schools. — Common glue 4 
oz., flour of emery 3 oz., and just lamp-black enough to 
give an inky color to the preparation. Dissolve the glue in 
f qt. of warm water, put in the lamp-black and emeiy, stir 
till there are no lumps, then apply to the board with a 
woolen rag smoothly rolled. Three coats are amply sufficient. 

Compound, Fire-proof Iron Paint. — Finely pulverized 
iron fillings 1 part, brick-dust 1 part, and ashes 1 part. 
Pour over them glue-water or size, set the whole near the 
fire, and when warm, stir them well together. With this 
paint cover all the wood- work which may be in danger; 
when dry, give a second coat, and the wood will be rendered 
incombustible. 

Remedy for Damp Walls. — f lb. of mottled soap to 1 
gal. of water. This composition to be laid over the brick- 
work steadily and carefully with a large flat brush, so as 
not to form a froth or lather on the surface. The wash should 
remain 24 hours, to become dry. Mix ^ lb. of alum with 
4 gals, of water, leave it to stand for 24 hours, and then 
apply it in the same manner over the coating of soap. Let 
this be done in dry weather. 

Darkening Glass. — The following, if neatly done, ren- 
ders the glass obscure yet diaphanous: Rub up, as for oil- 



392 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

colors, a sufficient quantity of sugar of lead with a little 
boiled linseed oil, and distribute this uniformly over the 
pane, from the end of a hog-hair tool, by a dabbing, jerking 
motion, until the appearance of ground glass is obtained. 
It may be ornamented, when perfectly hard, by delineating 
the pattern with a strong solution of caustic potash, giving 
it such time to act as experience dictates, and then' expedi- 
tiously wiping out the portion it is necessary to remove. 

To Prevent Iron Rusting. — Give it a coat of linseed 
oil and whiting, mixed together in the form of a paste. It 
is easily removed and will preserve ii'on from rusting for 
years. 



S'towiii^ ^^iVoo'^o. 



There is little trouble in preparing the stain, and its 
application differs but slightly from painting. 

Directions for Staining. — In preparing any of the 
tinctures, it is of importance to powder or mash all the dry 
stuffs previous to dissolving or macerating them, and to 
purify all the liquids by filtration before use. It will be 
better for inexperienced hands to coat twice or three times 
with a weak stain than only once with a very strong one, 
as by adopting the first mode a particular tint may be grad- 
ually effected, whereas, by pursuing the latter course, an 
irremediable discolorization may be the result. Coarse 
pieces of carving, spongy end, and cross-grained woods, 
should be previously prepared for the reception of stain; 
tills is best done by putting on a thin layer of varnish, 
letting it dry, and then sand-papering it completely off 
**gain. Fine work merely requires to be oiled and slightly 



STAINING WOODS. 393 

rubbed with the finest sand-paper. Thus prepared, the 
woody fiber is enabled to take on the stain more regularly, 
and to attain a high degree of smoothness. Stains may be 
applied with a good brush or with a woolen rag or sponge. 

To Stain Walnut. — Use burnt umber and liuseed oil, 
apply with a brush, and when dry sand-paper again and 
apply more stain. When the desired stain is made, varnish. 
A quick stain may be made by using water or thin glue in- 
stead of oil. This stain is not durable. 

Another. — Water 1 qt., washing soda 1^- oz., Vandyke 
brown 2| oz., bichromate of potash I oz. Boil for 10 
minutes, and apply with a brush, in either a hot or cold stain. 

Black Stain. — Boil 1 lb. of logwood in 4 qts. of water, 
add a double handful of walnut peel or shells ; boil it up 
again, take out the chips, add a pint of the best vinegar, 
and it will be fit for use; apply it boiling. This will be 
improved, if, when dry, a solution of green copperas, an 
ounce to a quart of water, is applied hot over the first stain. 

Black Stains for Immediate Use. — Boil ^ lb. of chip 
logwood in 2 qts. of water, add 1 oz. of pearlash, and apply it 
hot to the work with a brush. Then take -| lb. of logwood, 
boil it as before in 2 qts. of water, and add | oz. of verdigris 
and ^ oz. of copperas ; strain it o% put in | lb. of rusty steel 
filings ; with this go over the work a second time. 

Ebony Stains. — Stain work with the black stain, adding 
powdered nutgall to the logwood and copperas solution, dry, 
rub down well, oil, then use French polish made tolerably 
dark with indigo, or finely-powdered stone-blue. 

Cherry Stain.— Soft water 3 qts., annotto 4 oz. ; boil 
in a copper kettle till the annotto is dissolved, put in a piece 
of potash the size of a walnut; simmer over the fire about 
half an hour longer, and it is ready to bottle for use. 



394 OUR HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 



To Clean Pearls. — Soak them in hot water in which 
bran has been boiled, with a httle salts of tartar and alum, 
rubbing gently between the hands, when the heat will admit 
of it; when the water is cold, renew the application till any 
discoloration is removed; rinse in warm water. Lay them 
on white paper in a dark place to co'ol. 

To Clean Marble, Etc. — Mix up a quantity of the 
strongest soap-lees with quick-lime, to the consistency of 
milk, and lay it on the stone for twenty-four hours. Clean 
it, and it will appear as new. This may be improved by 
rubbing afterward with fine putty powder on olive-oil. 

To Clean Oil-Paintings. — Wash with a sponge or a 
soft leather and water, and dry with a silk handkerchief. 
When the picture is very dirty, take it out of its frame, pro- 
cure a clean towel, and making it quite wet, lay it on the 
face of the picture, sprinkling it from time to time with 
clear, soft water. Let it remain wet for two or three days. 
Take the cloth off and renew it with a fresh one. After 
wiping the picture with a clean wet sponge, repeat the proc- 
ess till all the dirt is soaked out; then wash it well with a 
soft sponge, let it become quite dry, and rub it with some 
clear nut or linseed oil. Spirits of wine and turpentine may 
be used to dissolve the hard old varnish, but they will attack 
the paint as well as the varnish if the further action of the 
spirits is not stopped at the proper time by using water freely. 

To Clean Plate. — Take an ounce each of cream of 
tartar, muriate of soda, and alum, and boil in a gallon or 
more of water. After the plate is taken out and rubbed 



CLEANING AND SCOURING. 395 

dry, it puts on a beautiful silvery whiteness. Powdered 
magnesia may be used dry for articles slightly tarnished, 
but if very dirty it must be used first wet and then dry. 

To Clean Brass or Copper. — Take 1 oz. of oxalic acid, 
6 oz. rotten-stone, ^ oz. gum arable, all in powder, 1 oz. 
sweet oil, and sufficient water to make a paste. Apply a 
small portion, and rub dry with a flannel or leather. 

Silver Plate. — Mix together 8 oz. prepared chalk, 2 oz. 
turpentine, 1 oz. alcohol, 4 dr. spirits of camphor, and 2 dr. 
liquor of ammonia. Apply this mixture to the article 
with a sponge, and allow to dry before polishing. 

Silver Cleaning Liquid. — Prepared chalk 8 oz., tur- 
pentine 2 oz., alcohol 1 oz., spirits of camphor 4 dr., liq- 
uor of ammonia 2 dr. Apply with a sponge, and allow to 
dry before polishing. Or use a solution of cyanide of po- 
tassium, 12 oz. cyanide to 1 qt. water; immerse the silver, 
brush it with a stiff brush until clean, wash and dry. 

Cleaning Hats. — The stains of grease and paint may be 
removed from fur hats by means of turpentine; and if the 
turpentine leaves a mark, finish with a little spirits of wine. 

Cleaning Jewelry. — Common jewelry may be effectually 
cleaned by washing with soap and warm water, rinsing in 
cold water, dipping in spirits of any kind, and drying in 
warm boxwood sawdust. Good jewelry only needs wash- 
ing with soap and water, and polishing with rouge and a 
chamois leather. 

Gleaning Engravings. — Put the engraving on a smooth 
board, cover it thinly with common salt, finely pounded; 
squeeze lemon-juice upon the salt so as to dissolve a consid- 
erable portion of it; elevate one end of the board, so that it 
may form an angle of about 45° or 50° with the horizon. 



396 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Pour on the engraving boiling water from a tea-kettle, 
until the salt and lemon -juice are all washed off; the engrav- 
ing will then be perfectly clean, and free from stains. It 
must be dried on the board, or on some smooth surface, 
gradually. If dried by the fire or the sun, it will be tinged 
with a yellow color. 

Polishing Wood Carving. — Take a piece of wadding, 
soft and pliable, and on it drop a few drops of white or trans- 
parent polish or French polish, according to the color of the 
wood. Wrap the wetted wadding up in a piece of old linen, 
forming it into a pad; and hold it by the surplus linen; 
then touch with one or two drops of linseed oil. Pass 
the pad gently over the parts to be polished, working it 
round in small circles, occasionally re- wetting the wadding 
in polish, and the pad with a drop or so of oil. The object 
of the oil is merely to cause the pad to run over the wood 
easily without sticking, therefore as little as possible should 
be used, as it tends to deaden the polish to a certain extent. 

Where a carving is to be polished after having been 
varnished, the same process is necessary, but it can only be 
applied to the plainer portions of the work. Plane surfaces 
must be made perfectly smooth with glass paper before pol- 
ishing, as every scratch or mark will show twice as much 
after the operation. When the polish is first rubbed on the 
wood, it is called the bodying in; it will sink into the wood 
and not give much glaze. It must, when dry, have another 
body rubbed on, and a third generally finishes it; but if 
not, the operation must be repeated. Just before the task 
is completed, greasy smears will show themselves ; thase will 
disappear by continuing the gentle rubbing without oiling 
the pad. 



CLEANING AND SCOURING. 397 

Polishing Mother-of-Pearl. — Go over it with pumice- 
stone finely powdered and washed to separate the impurities 
and dirt, with which poHsh it very smooth; then apply 
putty powder and water by a rubber, which will produce a 
fine gloss and good color. 

Floors. — Take some clean, sifted, white or silver sand, 
and scatter it on the floor. Dissolve one pound of American 
potash or pearlash, in one pint of water, and sprinkle the 
sand with this solution. Have a pail of very hot water, 
and scrub the boards lengthwise with a hard brush, 
using the mottled soap. Change the water frequently. 
This is the best way to scour and whiten boards. The pot- 
ash, if applied as directed, will take out all stains. 

Ink stains may be removed from boards by using either 
strong vinegar or salts of lemon. 

Cleaning House Paint. — Old paint-work should be 
first well dusted, then cleaned by washing with a ley of 
pearlash and water; it is sometimes necessary, after the 
washing, to give a coat of weak size, and as soon as it is 
dry, apply varnish, using copal for light work, and carriage 
for dark. Some handrails, doors, and so on, are so saturated 
with grease, that no washing will remove it. When this is 
the case, brush the foul parts over with strong fresh-made 
lime-wash, let that dry, then rub it off; if the grease is not 
removed, repeat the lime-washing, until the grease is thor- 
oughly drawn out; wash the lime off clean, and afterward 
apply the sizing, and lastly the varnish. 

To Wash Silver Ware. — Never use a particle of soap on 
your silver ware, as it dulls the luster, giving the article 
more the appearance of pewter than silver. When it wants 
cleaning, rub it with a piece of soft leather and prepared 



398 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

chalk, the latter made into a kind of paste with pure water, 
for the reason that water not pure might contain gritty 
particles. 

Cleaning Gilt Frames. — Gilt frames may be cleaned 
by simply washing them with a small sponge, wet with 
urine, hot spirits of wine, or oil of turpentine, not too 
wet, but sufficiently to take off the dirt and fly marks. 
They should not be afterward wiped, but left to dry of 
themselves. 

Scouring Articles of Dress. — Among the spots which 
alter the color fixed upon stuffs, some are caused by a sub- 
stance which may be described as simple, and others by a sub- 
stance which results from the combination of two or more 
bodies, that may act separately or together upon the stuff, 
and which may therefore be called compound. 



(SXc<vm/n<^ Sci^ycA/c^. 



Oils and fats are the substances which form the greater 
part of simple stains. They give a deep shade to the ground 
of the cloth ; they continue to spread for several days ; they 
attract the dust, and retain it so strongly that it is not 
removable by the brush; and they eventually render the 
stain lighter colored, upon a dark ground, and of a dis- 
agi'eeable gray tint upon a pale or light ground. 

The general principle of cleansing all spots consists in 
applying to them a substance with a stronger affinity for 
the.matter composing them than this has for the cloth, and 
which shall render them soluble in some liquid menstruum, 
such as water, spirits, naphtha, or oil of turpentine. Alkalies 
are the most powerful solvents of grease; but they act too 



REMOVING STAINS. 399 

strongly upon silk and wool, as well as change too power- 
fully the colors of dyed stuffs, to be safely applicable in re- 
moving stains. The best substances for this purpose are: 
1. Soap. 2. Chalk, fuller's- earth, soap-stone, or French chalk. 
These should be mixed with a little water, made into a 
thin paste, spread upon the stain, and allowed to dry. The 
spot requires now to be merely brushed. 3. The volatile oil of 
turpentine will take out only recent stains; for which pur- 
pose it ought to be previously purified by distillation over 
quick-lime. Wax, resin, turpentine, pitch, and all resinous 
bodies in general, form stains of greater or less adhesion, 
which may be dissolved out by pure alcohol. 4. Oxalic acid 
removes iron rust almost instantly, 

A stain of iron rust and grease requires two distinct 
operations, one to remove the grease and the other the rust, 
which can be done as indicated in preceding directions. 

Recent Ink Stains — may be removed by washing in pure 
water, then in soapy water, and lastly with lemon-juice; but 
if the stain be old, use oxalic acid, which may be applied in 
powder, well rubbed on, and washed off with pure water. 

Ox-gall and yolk of egg have the property of dissolving 
fatty bodies without perceptibly affecting the texture or 
colors of cloth, and may therefore be employed with ad- 
vantage. The ox -gall should be purified, to prevent its 
greenish tint from degrading the brilliancy of dyed stuffs, 
or the purity of whites. Thus prepared it is the most prec- 
ious of all substances known for removing these kinds of 
stains. 

Grease from Cloth, — Grease can be removed from cloth 
by a paste of fuller's-earth and turpentine. This should be 
rubbed on the fabric until the turpentine has evaporated and 



400 OUB HOM^ES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

a white powder produced. The latter can be brushed off, 
and the grease will have disappeared. 

Another. — Benzine, alcohol, ether, equal parts; mix, 
apply with a sponge (patting the spot), put a piece of blot- 
ting paper on each side and iron with a hot flat-iron. The 
ingredients are very inflammable ; use great care not to take 
them too near a fire. 

To Destroy the Effects of Acid on Clothes. — Dampen as 
soon as possible, after exposure to the acid, with spirits of 
ammonia. It will destroy the eflfect immediately. 

Fruit Stains. — First rub the spot on each side with hard 
soap, and then lay on a thick mixture of starch and cold 
water. Rub this mixture of starch well into the spot, and 
afterward expose it to the sun and air. If the stain has 
not disappeared at the end of three or four days, repeat the 
process. 

Grease Spots. — Dissolve one ounce of pearlash in one pint 
of water, and to this solution add a lemon cut into thin 
slices. Mix well, and keep the mixture in a warm state for 
two days, then strain and bottle the clear liquid for use. A 
small quantity of this mixture poured on stains occasioned 
by either grease, oil, or pitch, will speedily remove them. 
Afterward wash in clear water. 

Ink Stains. — Strain the linen tightly over a basin con- 
taining boiling water, and wet the stain with water. Then 
carefully let fall on the spot a few drops of salts of lemon, or 
diluted spirits of salt; use for this purpose a feather, or small 
camel's-hair pencil. When the stain has been removed, 
wash carefully in cold water. 

Iron-mold stains may also be removed by this method. 

To Wash Lace. — Cover an ordinary wine bottle with 



TO REVIVE FURS AND RENOVATE SILK. 401 

fine flannel, stitching it firmly round the bottle. Tack one 
end of the lace to the flannel, then roll it very smoothly 
round the bottle, and tack down the other end, then cover 
with a piece of very fine flannel or muslin. Now rub it 
gently with a strong soap liquor, and if the lace is very 
much discolored or dirty, fill the bottle with hot water, and 
place it in a kettle or saucepan of suds and .boil it for a few 
minutes, then place the bottle under a tap of running water 
to rinse out the soap. Make some strong starch, and melt 
in it a piece of white wax and a little loaf sugar. Plunge 
the bottle two or three times into this and squeeze out the 
superfluous starch with the hands; then dip the bottle in 
cold water, remove the outer covering from the lace, fill the 
bottle with hot water, and stand it in the sun to dry the 
lace. When nearly dry take it very carefully off" the bottle, 
and pick it out with the fingers. Then lay it in a cool place 
to dry thoroughly. 

Reviving Furs. — Thoroughly sprinkle every part with 
hot flour and sand, and brush well with a hard brush. Then 
beat with a cane, comb it smooth with a wet comb, and 
press carefully with a warm iron. For ermine use plaster-of- 
Paris instead of flour and sand, and treat in the same way. 

To Renovate Silk. — Potato-water is good to clean all 
colors and kinds; grate the potatoes into cold spring water, 
say a large potato to every quart of water, of which five or 
six will do for a couple of dresses. If for very light silk, 
pare the potatoes; if for dark, merely wash them clean. 
The pan of water must not be stirred in the least for forty- 
eight hours; then, very slowly and steadily pour off the clear 
liquor, but not a particle of the sediment, into a large open 
vessel, dip the pieces of silk into this Mquid up and down a 

26 



402 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

few times, without creasing them ; then wipe them on a flat 
table with a clean towel, first one side, then the other. It 
is as well to hang each one as dipped upon a line to allow 
the drops to drain off a little before wiping. Have a damp 
cloth to cover them in till all is done ; then iron one way, on 
the soiled side. 

To Wash Feathers. — Dissolve four ounces of white soap 
in two quarts of boiling water ; put it into a large basin or 
small pan, and beat to a strong lather with a wire egg-beater 
or a small bundle of birch twigs ; use while warm. Hold the 
feather by the quill with the left hand, dip it into the soap 
liquor and squeeze it through the right hand, using a moderate 
degree of pressure. Continue this operation until the feather 
is perfectly clean and white, using a second lot of soap 
liquor if necessary. Rinse in clean hot water to take out 
the soap, and afterward in cold water in which a small 
quantity of blue has been dissolved. Shake well, and dry 
before a moderate fire, shaking it occasionally that it may 
look full and soft when dried. Before it is quite dry curl 
each fibre separately with a blunt knife or ivory paper- 
folder. 

To Wo,sh Carpets. — Spread the carpet where you can 
use a brush, take Irish potatoes and scrape them into a pail 
or tub of water and let them stand over night, using one 
peck to clean a large carpet; two pails of water is sufficient 
to let them stand in, and you can add more when ready to 
use ; add two ounces of beef gall and use with a brush, as to 
scrub a floor; the particles of potato will help cleanse, and 
when dry, brush with a broom or stiff brush. 

Excellent Fam,rly Soa.p. — 1 box concentrated lye, 5 
lbs. urease, 1 11). resin, 1./ ijals. soft water; make in an 



RECIPES FOR CEMENTS. 403 

iron pot. When the water boils, put in the lye; when 
this is dissolved, add the grease; stir till all is' melted, then 
add one pound of resin gradually, and boil for an hour and 
a half ; keep stirring with a stick, and add hot water to keep 
up the original quantity, pour into wet tin pans, and let it 
stand for twenty-four hours. Cut into bars, and keep in a 
dry, warm place for a month. 

Washing Fluid. — 9 table-spoonfuls unslacked lime, 2 lbs. 
sal-vsoda, 4 qis. water; let this simmer half an hour, then 
bottle up. Take a small tea-cupful to a boiler of water. 

Another. — 1 lb. sal-soda, 1 lb. potash, each dissolved in 1 
gal. water (separately); mix together and bottle. 

Cheap Filter. — Take a common flower-pot as large as 
passible, plug the hole in the bottom with a piece of sponge, 
then put a layer of powdered charcoal about an inch thick, 
the same of clean sand, and a layer of small stones and coarse 
gravel about two inches thick. Set the pot where the water 
can drop oflT the sponge, and pour in water gently. In a few 
minutes the water will find its way through the sand and 
charcoal and drop into the vessel placed below, clear and 
free from impurities. 

How to Use Cements. — Take as small a quantity of the 
cement as possible, and bring the cement itself into intimate 
contact with the surfaces to be united. If glue is employed, 
the surface should be made so warm that the melted glue is 
not chilled before it has time to efiect a thorouofh adhesion. 
Cements that are used in a fused state, as resin or shellac, 
will not adhere unless the parts to be joined are heated to 



404 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

the fusing point of the cement. Sealing-wax, or ordinary- 
electrical cement, is a good agent for uniting metal to glass 
or stone, provided the masses to be united are made so hot 
as to fuse the cement, but if the cement is applied to them 
while they are cold it will not stick at all. This fact is well 
known to the itinerant vendors of cement for uniting earth- 
enware. By heating two pieces of china or earthenware so 
that'they will fuse shellac, they are able to smear them with 
a little of this gum, and join the pieces so that they wiU 
rather break at any other part than along the line of union. 

But although people constantly see the operation per- 
formed, and buy liberally of the cement, it will be found in 
nine cases out of ten that the cement proves worthless in the 
hands of the purchasers, simply because they do not know 
how to use it. They are afraid to heat a delicate glass or 
porcelain vessel to a sufficient degree, or they are apt to use 
too much of the material, and the result is a failure. 

Cement for Ivory or Mother-of-Pearl. — Dissolve 1 part 
of isinglass and 2 of white glue in 30 parts of water, strain 
and evaporate to 6 parts, add one-thirtieth part of gum 
mastic, dissolved in one-half part of alcohol, add 1 part 
of white zinc. When required to use, warm and shake up. 

Cement for Jet. — Shellac is generally used for jet arti- 
cles. The broken edges should be heated before appljdng 
the shellac. Should the joint be in sight, it will be rendered 
the same color as the jet itself by smoking the shellac before 
applying it. 

Cheap India-Rubber Cement. — Cut virgin or native 
India-rubber with a wet knife into the thinest possible slices, 
and with shears divide these into threads as fine as fine 
yarn. Put a small quantity of the shreds, (say one-tenth 



BECIPES FOB CEMENTS. 405 

or less of the capacity of the bottle), into a wide-inouthed 
bottle, and fill it three-quarters full with benzine of good 
quahty perfectly free from oil. The rubber will swell up 
almost immediately, and in a few days, especially if often 
shaken, assume the consistency of honey. If it inclines to 
remain in undissolved masses, more benzine must be added, 
but if too thin and watery it needs more rubber. A piece 
of solid rubber the size of a walnut will make a pint of 
cement. It dries in a few minutes, and by using three coats 
in the usual manner, will unite leather straps, patches, rubber 
soles, backs of books, etc., with exceeding firmness. 

Cement for Petroleum Lamps. — Boil 3 parts of resin 
with 1 part of caustic soda and 5 of water. The composi- 
tion is then mixed with half its weight of plaster-of- Paris, 
and sets firmly in one-half to three-fourths of an hour. It 
is of great adhesive power, not permeable to petroleum, a 
slow conductor of heat, and but superficially attacked by 
hot water. 

Cement to Mend Iron Pots and Pans. — Take 2 parts 
of sulphur, and 1 part, by weight, of fine black-lead, put 
the sulphur in an old iron pan, holding it over the fire until 
it begins to melt; then add the lead, stir well until all is 
mixed and melted, then pour out on an iron plate, or smooth 
stone. When cool, break into small pieces. A sufficient 
quantity of this compound being placed upon the crack of 
the iron pot to be mended, can be soldered by a hot iron in 
the same way a tinsmith solders his sheets. If there is a 
small hole in the pot, drive a copper rivet iiito it and then 
solder over it with this cement. 

London Cement. — BoU a piece of old cheese three times 
in water, each time allowing the water to evaporate. Take 



406 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

the paste thus left and thoroughly incorporate with dry 
quick-lime. It willl mend glass, wood, china, etc., very 
effectually. 

Cement for Wood Vessels Required to be Water- 
Tight. — Take lime-clay and oxide of iron, seperately cal- 
cined and reduced to fine powder, then intimately mixed, 
kept in a close vessel, and mixed with the requisite quantity 
of water when used. 

Cement for Leather. — A good cement for splicing leather 
for straps is gutta-percha dissolved in bisulphide of carbon, 
until it is of the > thickness of molasses; the parts to be 
cemented must first be well thinned down, then pour a small 
quantity of the cement on both ends, spreading it well so as 
to fill the pores of the leather, warm the parts over a fire for 
about half a minute, apply them quickly together and ham- 
mer well. The bottle containing the cement should be 
tightly corked and kept in a cool place. 

Marble Cement. — Take plaster-of-Paris and soak it in 
a saturated solution of alum, then bake in an oven, the same 
as gypsum is baked to make it plaster-of-Paris; after which 
grind the mixture to powder. It is then used as wanted, 
being mixed up with water like plaster and applied. It sets 
into a very hard composition capable of taking a very high 
polish, and may be mixed with various coloring minerals to 
produce a cement of any color capable of imitating marble. 
This cement is also used for attaching glass to metal. 

Chinese Cernent. — Finest pale orange shellac, broken 
small, 4 oz., rectified spirit, the strongest, 3 oz., digest to- 
gether in a corked bottle in a warm place until dissolved ; it 
should have the consistency of molasses. It is used for wood, 
glass, ivory, jewelry, and all fancy works. 



RECIPES FOR CEMENTS. 407 

Cements for Cracks in Wood. — Make a paste of slacked 
lime 1 part, rye meal 2 parts, with a sufficient quantity of 
linseed oil. Or, dissolve 1 part of glue in 16 parts of water, 
and when almost cool, stir in sawdust and prepared chalk a 
sufficient quantity. Or, oil-varnish thickened with a mixt- 
ure of equal parts of white-lead, red-lead, litharge, and 
chalk. 

To Mend China. — Take a very thick solution of gum 
arable in water, and stir into it plaster-of-Paris until the 
mixture becomes of a proper consistency. Apply it with a 
brush to the fractured edges of the china, and stick them 
together. In three days the articles cannot be broken in 
the same place. The whiteness of the cement renders it 
doubly valuable. 

Stone-Masons Cement. — Clean river sand 20 lbs., lith- 
arge 2 lbs., quick-lime 1 lb., linseed oil, sufficient to form a 
thin paste. This cement is used to mend broken pieces 
of stone, and after a time it becomes exceedingly hard and 
strong. A similar composition has been used to coat brick 
walls, under the name of mastic. 

Fire-Proof and Water-Proof Cement. — To 4 or 5 parts 
of clay, thoroughly dried and pulverized, add 2 parts of fine 
iron filings free f lom oxide, 1 part of peroxide of manganese, | 
part of sea salt, and | part of borax. Mingle these thor- 
oughly and render them as fine as possible, then reduce 
them to a thick paste with the necessary quantity of water. 
It must be used immediately. After application, it should 
be exposed to heat, gradually increasing almost to a white 
heat. This cement is very hard, and presents complete re- 
sistance alike to a red heat and boiling water. 

Another Method. — To equal parts of sifted peroxide of 



408 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

manganese and well-pulverized zinc white, add a sufficient 
quantity of commercial soluble glass to form a thin paste. 
This mixture, when used immediately, forms a cement quite 
equal in hardness and resistance to that obtained by the first 
method. 

Armenian, or Jeweler's CeTnent. — Dissolve 5 or 6 bits 
of gum mastic, the size of a large pea, in as much spirits of 
wine as will suffice to render it liquid ; in a separate vessel 
dissolve as much isinglass (previously softened in water, 
though none of the water must be used) in rum, or other 
spirit, as will make a 2-oz. phial of very strong glue, add- 
ing two small pieces of gum ammoniacum, which must be 
rubbed or ground till they are dissolved ; then mix the whole 
with a sufficient heat. Keep it in a phial closely stopped, 
and when it is to be used, set the phial in boiling water. 
The preceding is also effectual in uniting almost all sub- 
stances, even glass, to polished steel. 

To Renew Manuscri/pts. — Take a hair pencil and wash 
the part that has been effaced with a solution of prussiate of 
potash and water, and the writing will again appear if the 
paper has not been destroyed. 

Tracing Paper. — 1. Wash very thin paper with the 
following mixture: Spirits turpentine, 6 parts, by weight, 
resin 1 part, boiled nut oil 1 part. Apply with a soft 
sponge. 

2. Brush over one side of a good, thin, unsized paper 
with a varnish made of equal parts of Canada balsam and 
turpentine. If required to take water-color, it must be 
washed over with ox-s"all and dried before being used. 



MISCELLANEOUS EECIPE8. 409 

3. Open a quire of double-crown tissue paper, and brush 
the first sheet with a mixture of mastic varnish and oil of 
turpentine, equal parts; proceed with each sheet similarly, 
and dry them on lines by hanging them up singly. As the 
process goes on, the under sheets absorb a portion of the 
varnish, and require less than if single sheets were brushed 
S€f)arately. 

Transfer Paper — is made by rubbing white paper with 
a composition consisting of 2 oz. tallow, i oz. powdered 
black-lead, -4 pint linseed oil, and sufficient lamp-black to 
make it of the consistency of ci-eam. These should be 
melted together and rubbed on the paper while hot. When 
dry it wUl be fit for use. 

Alloy for Journal Boxes. — Copper 3 lbs., tin 3 lbs., 
and antimony 1 lb. Melt the copper first, then add the tin, 
and lastly the antimony. It should be first run into ingots, 
then melted and cast in the form required for the boxes. 

Ainher, to Mend. — Smear the parts which are to be 
united with linseed oil, hold the oiled part carefully over a 
small charcoal fire, a hot cinder, or a gas-light, being care- 
ful to cover up all the rest of the object loosely with paper; 
when the oiled parts have begun to feel the heat, so as to be 
sticky, pinch or press them together, and hold them so till 
nearly cold. Only that part where the edges are to be 
united must be warmed, and even that with care, lest the 
form or polish of the other parts should be disturbed ; the 
part joined generally requires a little re-polishing. 

Bronzing Wood. — The wood is first covered with a uni- 
form coating of glue, or of drying oil, and when nearly dry 
the bronze powder, contained in a small bag, is dusted over 
it. The surface of the object is afterward rubbed with a 



410 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

piece of moist rag, or the bronze powder may be previously- 
mixed with the drying oil, and applied with a brush. The 
bronze powder can be procured at almost any drug store, 
and at some paint stores. 

To Print a Picture from the Primt Itself. — The page 
or picture is soaked in a solution, first of potassa, and then 
of tartaric acid. This produces a perfect diffusion of crystals 
of bitartarate of potassa through the texture of the unprinted 
part of the paper. As this salt resists oU, the ink roller 
may now be passed over the surface, without transferring 
any part of its contents except to the printed part. 

Hints about Screws. — Where screws are driven into 
soft wood and subjected to considerable strain, they are very 
likely to work loose, and it is often difficult to make them 
hold. In such cases the use of glue is profitable. Prepare 
the glue thick, immerse a stick about half the size of the 
screw and put it into the hole, then immerse the screw, and 
drive it home as quickly as possible. When there is an 
article of furniture to be hastily repaired, and no glue is at 
hand, bore a hole, insert the stick, fill the rest of the cavity 
with pulverized resin, then heat the screw sufficiently to melt 
the resin as it is driven in. Where screws are driven into 
wood for temporary purposes, they can be more easily re- 
moved by dipping them in oil before inserting. When buy- 
ing screws, notice that the heads are sound and well cut, 
that there are no flaws in the body or thread part, and that 
they have gimlet points. A screw of good make will drive 
into oak as easily as others into pine, and will endure having 
twice the force brought against it. 

To Make Putty. — Mix a quantityof whiting into a very 
stifi* paste with linseed oil, rubbing and beating it well before 



MISCELLANEOUS BEGIPES. 411 

using. For particular purposes, as for fanlights, iron-framed 
green-houses, and other places where the lap or hold is very 
narrow, a little white-lead may be added to advantage. 
Colored putty has a mixture of red ochre, lamp-black, or 
other color with the whiting. 

To Make Sealing- Wax. — Red. Take 1 lb. of yellow 
resin, h\ oz, of gum lac, 5| oz. of Venice turpentine, and 1 
oz. of vermilion. Melt the lac in a copper pan suspended 
over a clear fire, add the resin, pour the turpentine slowly 
in, and soon afterward add the vermilion, stirring the mixt- 
ure all the time. Form either into round sticks by rolling 
it out on a smooth stone slab by means of a wooden board, 
or into oval sticks by casting it into stone molds made in 
two pieces. 

Black sealing-wax is made by substituting either lamp- 
black or ivory -black in the above recipe. 

Gleaning Harness, oi' Saddles and Bridles. — If harness, 
wash it perfectly clean with warm water and soft soap, and 
when dry, apply neat's-foot oil and black dye, mixed; mix 
them by adding a small quantity of salts of wormwood, 
when they will be well blacked and pliable. At the same 
time, by applying the oil and dye to the bottom or under 
parts of the straps, and composition to the top, they will 
always be pliable, and have a good polish on the top. If a 
riding saddle, wash in cold water and soft soap until free 
from dirt; then apply soft soap with a woolen cloth — about 
2 table-spoonfuls would be enough for a saddle — which will 
dry in. If the saddle is to have a yellow appearance, infuse 
a few cents' worth of hay saffron in about four or five table- 
spoonfuls of water, and apply before the soft soap, then rub 
on a piece of woolen cloth, or a brush, a piece of bees- wax. 



412 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

and finish the saddle off with it, rubbing till a good polish is 
obtained. 

Blacking for Harness. — 1. Molasses ^ lb., lamb-black 

1 oz., yeast a spoonful, sugar-candy, olive oil, gum traga- 
canth, and isinglass, each 1 oz., and a cow's gall. Mix with 

2 pts. of stale beer, and let it stand before the fire for an 
hour. 

2. Molasses 8 parts, lamp-black 1, sweet oil 1, gum 
arable 1, isinglass 1, water 32. Apply heat to the whole; 
when cold, add 1 oz. spirits of wine, and apply with sponge. 
If it should get hard, place the bottle in warm water a short 
time. 

3. Melt 1 lb. bees-wax, stir in 4 oz. ivory-black, 2 oz. 
spirits turpentine, 2 oz. Prussian blue, ground in oil, and ^ 
oz. copal varnish. Make into balls. With a brush apply 
to harness, and polish with silk gently. 

Harness Composition. — Put into a glazed pipkin 2 oz. 
of black resin, place it on a gentle fire ; when melted, add 3 
oz. of bees- wax. When this is melted, take it from the fire, 
add \ oz. of fine lamp-black, and | dr. of Prussian blue in 
fine powder; stir them so as to be perfectly mixed, and add 
sufficient spirits of turpentine to form a thin paste, let it 
cool. To use it, apply a coat with a piece of linen rag pretty 
evenly all over the harness ; then take a soft polishing brush 
and brush it over, to obtain a bright surface. 

To Destroy Bed-Bugs, Moths, and Other Vermin. — 
Dissolve 'alum in hot water, making a very strong solution; 
apply to furniture or crevices in the walls with paint brush. 
This is sure destruction to those noxious vermin, and inval- 
uable because easily obtained, is perfectly safe to use, and 
leaves no unpleasant traces behind. When you suspect 



RECIPES FOB MAKING INK. 413 

moths have lodged m the borders of carpets, wet the edges 
of the carpets with a strong solution; whenever it reaches 
them, it is certain death. 

Black Ink, Non-Corrosive. — Digest in an open vessel 
42 oz. of coarsely-powdered nut-galls, 15 oz. of gum Senegal, 
18 oz. of sulphate of iron, copperas free from copper, 3 
dr. of aqua ammonia, 24 oz. of alcohol, and 18 qts. of dis- 
tilled or rain-water. Continue the digestion until the fluid 
has assumed a deep black color. To make less quantity, use 
less of each ingredient, but in the same proportion. For 
cheap inks other ingredients may be substituted instead of 
part of the galls; logwood, catechu, sumac, and oak -bark 
may be used for the same purpose. Many other substances, 
such as elm wood, elder, chestnut, beech, willow, plum, 
cherry, and poplar, all contain a certain amount of astrin- 
gent properties, but none of them are to be compared to 
galls, and are not likely to supercede them in the manufact- 
ure of ink so long as galls can be had for a fair price. 

A Cheap Invisible Ink. — Dissolve 1 fluid oz. of common 
oil of vitriol in a pint of soft water. Stir well and allow it 
to cool. "Write with a clean pen. When dry it will be in- 
visible, held to the fire it turns an indellible black. 

Green Ink. — Verdigris 2 oz., cream of tartar 1 oz., 
water | pt., reduce one-half by boiling, and filter, using 
druggist's filtering paper. 

Blue Ink. — Chinese blue 2 oz., boiling water 1 qt., oxahc 
acid 1 oz. Dis-solve the blue in the water, then h,dd the acid, 
and it is ready at once. 

Soap-Bubbles. — Few things amuse children more than 
blowing bubbles. Dissolve I of an oz. of castile or oil soap, 
cut up in small pieces, in f of a pt. of water, and boil it'for 



414 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

two or three minutes ; then add five oz. of glycerine. When 
cold, this fluid will produce the best and most lasting 
bubbles that can be blown. 

To Prevent Rusting. — 1. Boiled linseed oil will keep 
polished tools from rusting if it is allowed to dry on them. 
Common sperm oil will prevent them from rusting for a 
short period. A coat of copal varnish is frequently applied 
to polished tools exposed to the weather. Woolen materials 
are the best for wrappers for metals. 2. Iron and steel goods 
of all descriptions are kept free from rust by the following: 
Dissolve I oz. of camphor in 1 lb. of hog's lard, take off the 
scum, and mix as much black-lead as will give the mixture 
an iron color. Iron and steel and machinery of all kinds, 
rubbed over with this mixture, and left with it on for 24 
hours, and then rubbed with a linen cloth, will keep clean 
for months. If the machinery is for exportation it should 
be kept thickly coated with this during the voyage. 

To Prevent Lead Exploding. — Many mechanics have 
had theii' patience sorely tried when pouring melted lead 
around a damp or wet joint to find it explode, blow out, or 
scatter from the effects of steam generated by the heat of 
the lead. The whole trouble may be stopped by putting a 
piece of resin the size of the end of a man's thumb into the 
ladle and allowing it to melt before pouring. Simple as the 
secret is, many have paid $20 for the privilege of knowing it. 

To Repair Rubber Hose. — Cut the hose apart where it 
is defective. Obtain from any gas-fitter a piece of iron pipe 
two or three inches long, twist the hose over it until the ends 
meet, wrap with strong twine, well waxed, and it will last 
a long time. 

To Keep Wagon Tires on the Whed. — A practical 



THE TEMPERING SECRET. 415 

mechanic suggests a method of so putting tires on wagons 
that they will not get loose and require resetting. He says 
he ironed a wagon some years ago for his own use, and 
before putting on the tires, he filled the felloes with linseed 
oil, and the tires have worn out and were never loose. This 
method is as follows: Use a long cast-iron heater made 
for the purpose; the oil is brought to a boiling heat, the 
wheel is placed on a stick, so as to hang each felloe in the 
oil an hour. The timber should be dry, as green timber will 
not take oil. Care should be taken that the oil is not made 
hotter than a boiling heat, or the timber will be burned. 
Timber filled with oil is not susceptible of injury by water, 
and is rendered much more durable by this process. 

The United States Government Tempering Secret. — 
The following process and mixtures, patented by Garman 
and Siegfried, and owned by the Steel Refining and Tem- 
pering Co., of Boston, Mass., cost the U. S. Government 
$10,000 for the right of using in their shops, and is said to 
impart extraordinary hardness and durability to the* poorest 
kinds of steel. Siegfried's specification reads as follows: — 

" I first heat the steel to a cherry red in a clean smith's 
fire, and then cover it with chloride of sodium (common 
salt), purifying the fire also by throwing in salt. I work 
the steel in this condition, and while subjected to this 
treatment, until it is brought into nearly its finished form. 
I then substitute for the salt a compound composed of the 
following ingredients, and in about the following proportions : 
One part by weight of each of the following substances: 
chloride of sodium (salt), sulphate of copper, sal-ammoniac, 
and sal-soda, together with | part by weight of pure nitrate 
of potassa (saltpeter), said ingredients being pulverized and 



416 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

mixed ; I alternately heat the steel and treat it by covering 
with this mixture and hammering it until it is thoroughly 
refined and brought into its finished form. I then return it 
to the fire and heat it slowly to a cherry red, and then 
plunge it into a bath composed of the following ingredients, 
in substantially the following proporticms for the required 
quantity: of rain-water 1 gal., alum, sal-soda, sulphate of 
copper, of each 1| oz., of nitrate of potassa (saltpeter) 1 oz., 
and of chloride of sodium (salt) 6 oz. These quantities and 
proportions are stated as being what I regard as practically 
the best, but it is manifest that they may be slightly changed 
without departing from the principles of my invention." 

U. S. Mint Test for Counterfeit Silver. — Make a solu- 
tion of 24 grs. nitrate of silver, 30 drops nitric acid, and 1 
oz. of water; scrape the coin to be tested and apply a drop 
of the liquid; if the coin turns black, reject it. 




"^fioit 



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V-<S)~"*-^ fe^°<- 



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L OF stOOKING, i 



''<f©i^*^^ 



||N the following pages of the " Household Com- 
pendium," will be found a most concise and val- 
uable collection of recipes and instructions for 
cooking. The experienced housewife will not be 
slow in discovering that this department is en- 
tirely reliable and trustworthy. Eveiy recipe 
has been tested in the kitchen and found worthy 
of a place in this book. 

In order that this Manual may be more service- 
able, the following arrangement of topics has 
been made: Kitchen utensils, soups, fish, poul- 
try and game, meats, vegetables, sauces, puddings, break- 
fasts and suppers, pies, custards and creams, ices, fruits, 
candy, bread and biscuits, drinks, beverages, etc., etc. 

27 [417J 




418 



OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 



Wooden Ware. — Kitchen table, wash bench, wash tubs 
(three sizes), wash board, bosom board, bread board, towel 
roller, potato masher, wooden spoons, flour sieve, chopping 
'bowl, soap bowl, pails, lemon squeezer, clothes wringei-, 
clothes horse, clothes pins, clothes basket, mop, broom, and 
wood box. 




Fig. 102. 



Tin Ware. — Boiler for clothes, boiler for ham, bread 
pan, two dish pans, preserving pan, four milk pans, two 
quart basins, two pint basins, two quart covered tin pails, 
one four-quart covered tin pail, sauce pans with covers (two 
•iizes), two tin cups with handles, two pint molds (for rice, blanc- 



RECIPES FOB COOKING. 419 

mange, etc.), one skimmer, two dippers (different si^ses), one 
quart measure, pint and half -pint measures (they should be 
broad and low, as they are more easily kept -clean), bread 
pans, two round jelly cake pans, two long pie pans, coffee 
pot, tea steeper, steamer, horse-radish grater, nutmeg grater, 
egg beater, cake turner, cake cutter, apple corer, potato cut- 
ter, flour dredge, tea canister, coffee canister, cake, bread, 
cracker, and cheese boxes, crumb tray, and dust pans. 

Iron Ware.—Ra.nge or stove, pot with steamer to fit, 
soup kettle, preserving kettle (porcelain), tea kettle, large 
and small frying pans, gem pans, iron spoons of various 
sizes, giidiron, griddle, waffle iron, toasting rack, meat fork, 
can opener, coffee mill, flat irons, hammer, tack hammer, 
screw driver, and ice pick. 

Stone Ware. — Crocks (various sizes), bowls of pint, two 
quart, four quart, and six quart, six earthen baking dishes 
of various sizes. 

The basis of all good soups, is the broth of meat. This 
may be made by boiling the cracked joints of beef, veal, or 
mutton, and is b&st when cooked the day before it is to be 
eaten. After putting the meat into the pot, cover it 
with cold water and let it come to a boil, when it should be 
well skimmed. Set the meat where it will simmer slowly 
until it is thoroughly done, keeping the pot closely covered 
the while. The next day, when the soup is cold, remove the 
fat, which will harden on the top of the soup. After this, 
add the vegetables and the herbs you use for seasoning, 
C(X)king all well together. Before sending to the table, the 



420 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

soup should be strained. A good stock for soups may be 
made from shreds and bits of uncooked meat and bones, 
poultry, and the remains of game. When these are all put 
together and stewed down in the pot, the French term it 
consoTYime, and use it chiefly in the preparation of brown 
soups. 

Soups may be varied in n>any ways, chiefly in the kinds 
of vegetables and different seasonings used, as in herbs, 
burned caramel, eggs, or slices of bread fried to a crisp in 
butter, which impart a SELvory relish. 

Potato Soup. — Slice and fry to a nice brown 4 large on- 
ions in one-fourth lb. butter in a soup pot, add 4 qts. of skim- 
milk, have pealed and boiled a good 3 pts. of potatoes, mash 
them fine and reduce smooth with the milk from your soup 
pot; repeat this till all the potatoes are in the soup pot; 
just bring to a boil, and add pepper and salt to taste. 

Ox-Tail Soujy. — Take 2 ox tails and 2 whole onions, 2 
caiTots, 1 small turnip, 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and a little 
white pepper, add 1 gal. water, let all boil for 2 hours; then 
take out the tails and cut the meat into small pieces, return 
the bones to the pot for a short time, boil another hour, 
then strain the soup, and rinse 2 spoonfuls of arrowroot to 
add to it with the meat cut from the bones, and let all 
boil for a quarter of an hour. 

Beef Souj). — Cut all the lean off the shank, and with a 
little beef suet in the bottom of the kettle, fry it to a nice 
brown; put in the bones and cover with water; cover the 
kettle closely; let it cook slowly until the meat drops from 
the bones, strain through a strainer and leave it in the dish 
during the night, which is the only way to get off all the 
fat. The day it is wanted for the table, fry as brown as 



RECIPES FOB SOUPS. 421 

possible 1 carrot, 1 onion, and 1 very small turnip sliced 
thin. Just before taking up, put in one-half tea-spoonful of 
sugar, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, 12 kernels of allspice, 1 
small tea-spoonful of celery seed, with the vegetables, this 
must cook slowly in the soup 1 hour, then strain again for 
the table. If you use vermicelli or pearl barley, soak in 
water. 

Mutton Soup. — Boil a leg of mutton 3 hours, season to 
your taste with salt and pepper, and add 1 tea-spoonful of 
summer savory ; make a batter of 1 egg, 2 table-spoonfuls of 
milk, 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, all well beaten together; drop 
this batter into the soup with a spoon, and boil for 3 minutes. 

Oyster Soup. — Take 1 qt. of water, 1 tea-cupful of 
butter, 1 pt. of milk, 2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 4 crackers rolled 
fine, and 1 tea-spoonful of pepper ; bring to full boiling heat 
as soon as possible, then add 1 qt. of oysters. Let the whole 
come to a boiling heat quickly and remove from the fire. 

Another. — Pour 1 qt. of boiling water into a skillet, 
then add 1 qt. of good rich milk, stir in 1 tea-cupful of 
rolled cracker crumbs, season with pepper and salt to taste. 
When all come to a boil, add 1 qt. of good fresh oysters; 
stir well, so as to keep from scorching, then add a piece of 
good SAveet butter about the size of an egg; let it boil up 
once, then remove from the fire immediately; dish up and 
send to table. 

Tomato Soup. — Boil chicken or beef 4 hours, then strain, 
add to the soup one can of tomatoes and boil 1 hour. This 
will make four quarts of soup. 

Vermicelli Soup. — A knuckle of lamb, a small piece of 
veal, and water to cover well ; when well cooked, season with 
salt, pepper, herbs to your taste, and a small onion, to which 



422 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

you may add Half ord or Worcestershire sauce about 1 table- 
spoonful. Have ready one-fourth lb. of vermicelli, which has 
been boiled tender, strain your soup from the meat, add the 
vermicelli, let it boil well and serve. 

ToTnato Soup tuithout Meat. — 1 qt. of tomatoes, 1 qt. 
of water, 1 qt. of milk. Butter, salt, and pepper to taste. 
Cook the tomatoes thoroughly in the water, have the milk 
scalding, (over water to prevent scorching). When the 
tomatoes are done, add 1 lai-ge tea-spoonful of saleratus, 
which will cause a violent effervescence. It is best to 
set the vessel in a pan before adding it, to prevent waste. 
When the commotion has ceased, add the milk and season- 
ing. When possible, it is best to use more milk than 
water, and cream instead of butter. The soup is eaten with 
crackers. This recipe is very valuable for those who keep 
abstinence days. 

Corn Soup. — 1 small beef bone, 2 qts. of water, 4 toma- 
toes, 8 ears of corn ; let the meat boil a short time in the 
water, cut the corn from the cob and put in the cobs with 
the cut corn and tomatoes; let it boil about half an hour, 
remove the cobs; just before serving add the milk, which 
should be allowed to boil for a few moments only; season 
with salt and pepper. 

Bean Soup. — 1 pt. of beans, 4 qts. of water, small piece 
of fat beef, boil 3 hours and strain. If too thin add 1 table- 
spoonful of flour. 

Noodles for Soup. — Rub into 2 eggs as much sifted 
flour as they will absorb, then roll out until thin as a wafer, 
du.st over a little flour, and then roll over and over into a 
roll, cut off thin slices from the edge of the roll and shake 
out into long strips, put them into the soup lightly and boil 



HOW TO COOK FISH. 423 

for ten minutes, salt should be added while mixing with the 
flour, — about a salt-spoonful. 

Fish are good when the gills are red, eyes are full, and 
the body of the fish is firm and stiif. After washing them 
well, they should be allowed to remain for a short time in 
salt water sufficient to cover them. Before cooking, wipe 
them dry, dredge lightly with flour, and season with salt 
and pepper. Salmon-trout and other small fish are usually 
fried or broUed ; all large fish should be put in a cloth, tied 
closely with twine, and placed in cold water, when they may 
be put over the fire to boil. When fish are baked, prepare 
them the same as for boiling, and put in the oven on a 
wire gridiron, over a dripping-pan. 

Boiled White Fish. — Lay the fish open, put it in a 
dripping-pan with the back down, nearly cover with water. 
To one fish add 2 table-spoonfuls of salt, cover tightly and 
simmer (not boil) one-half hour, dress with gravy, butter, 
and pepper, garnish with sliced eggs. For sauce, use a piece 
of butter the size of an egg, 1 table-spoonful of flour, one-half 
pt. of boiling water; boil a few minutes, and add 3 hard- 
boiled eggs, sliced. 

Sauce for Boiled Fish. — To 1 tea-cupful of milk add 
1 tea- cupful of water, put it on the fire to scald, and when 
hot stir in 1 table-spoonful of flour, previously wet with cold 
water; add 2 or 3 eggs, season with salt and pepper, a little 
celery, vinegar, and 3 table-spoonfuls of butter. Boil 4 or 
5 eggs hard, take off" the shells, and cut in slices, and lay 
over the dish. Then pour over the sauce and serve. 



424 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Baked Black Bass. — 8 good-sized onions chopped fine, 
half that quantity of bread crumbs, butter size of hen's egg, 
plenty of pepper and salt, mix thoroughly with anchovy 
sauce until quite red. Stuff your fish with this compound 
and pour the rest over it, previously sprinkling it with a 
little red pepper. Shad, pickerel, and trout are good, cooked 
in the same way. Tomatoes can be used instead of an- 
chovies, and are more economical. If using them, take pork 
in place of butter and chop fine. 

Broiled White Fish. — Wash and drain the fish, sprinkle 
^dth pepper and lay with the inside down upon the gridiron, 
and broil over fresh bright coals. When a nice brown, turn 
for a moment on the other side, then take up and spread 
with butter. This is a very nice way of broiling all kinds 
of fish, fi'esh or salted. A little smoke under the fish adds 
to its flavoi'. This may be made by putting two or three 
cobs under the gridiron. 

Uels. — Skin and parboil them, cleanse the back bone of 
all coagulations, cut them in pieces about 3 inches in length, 
dip in flour, and cook in pork fat; brown. 

Salt Mackerel. — Soak the fish for a few hours in luke- 
warm water, changing the water several times; then put 
into cold water, loosely tied in cloths, and let the fish come 
to a boil, turning off the water once, and pouring over the 
fish hot water from the tea-kettle; let this just come to a 
boil, then take them out and drain them, lay them on a 
platter, butter and pepper- them, and place them for a few 
moments in the oven. Serve with sliced lemons, or with 
any nice fish sauce. 

Baked Halibut or Salmon. — Let the fish remain in 
cold water, slightly salted, for an hour before it is time to 



HOW TO COOK OYSTEHS. 425 

cook it, place the gridiron on a dripping-pan with a little 
hot water in it, and bake in a hot oven; just before it is done, 
butter it well on the top, and brown it nicely. The time of 
baking depends upon the size of the fish. A small fish will 
bake in about half an hour, and a large one in an hour. 
They are very nice when cooked as above and served with 
a sauce which is made from the gravy in the dripping-pan, 
to which is added a table-spoonful of catsup and another of 
some pungent sauce and the juice of a lemon. Thicken 
with brown flour moistened with a little cold water. Gar- 
nish handsomely with sprigs of parsley and current jelly. 

Oyster Patties. — Make some rich puff" paste and bake it 
in very small tin patty-pans ; when cool, turn them out upon a 
large dish; stew some large fresh oysters with a few cloves, 
a little mace, and nutmeg; then add the yolk of one egg, 
boiled hard and grated ; add a little butter and as much of 
the oyster liquor as will cover them. When they have 
stewed a little while, take them out of the pan and set 
them to cool. When quite cold, lay two or three oysters in 
each shell of puff* paste. 

Stewed Oysters. — Drain the liquor from 2 qts. of firm, 
plump oysters, mix with one small tea-cupful of hot water, 
add a little salt and pepper, and set over a fire in a sauce- 
pan. When it boils, add 1 large cupful of rich milk. Let 
it boil up once, add the oysters, and let it boil 5 minutes. 
When they ruffle add 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, and the 
instant it is melted and well stirred in, take off" the fire. 

Broiled Oysters. — Drain the oysters well and dry them 
with a napkin. Have ready a griddle hot and well-but- 
tered, season the oysters, lay them on the griddle and brown 
them on both sides. Serve them on a hot plate with plenty 
of butter. 



426 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Oysters a la Creme. — 1 qt. of oysters, 1 pt. of cream; put 
the oysters in a double kettle, cook until the milk juice begins 
to flow out, drain the oysters in a strainer. Put the cream 
on the same way; when it comes to a boil, thicken with 
flour wet with milk as thick as corn starch ready to mold; 
then put in the oysters and cook 5 minutes. Serve hot on 
toast. 

Escaloped Oysters. — Butter the dish, (common earthen 
pie plates are the best), cover the bottom of the dish with 
very fine bread crumbs; add a layer of oysters; season 
with pepper and salt; alternate the crumbs and oysters 
until you have three layers; finish with crumbs; cover the 
top with small pieces of butter; finish around the edge with 
bread cut into small oblong pieces dipped in butter ; bake 
half an hour; unless shell oysters, wash them thoroughly 
and strain. 

To Fry Oysters. — Use the largest and best oysters; lay 
them in rows upon a clean cloth and press another upon 
them, to absorb the moisture; have ready several beaten 
esfors, and in another dish some finelv crushed crackers ; in 
the frying-pan heat enough butter to entirely cover the oys- 
ters; dip the oysters first into the eggs, then into the crack- 
ers, rolling them over that they may become well in- 
crusted; drop into the frying-pan, and fry quickly to a 
light brown. Serve dry and let the dish be warm. A 
chafing dish is best, 

Stetued Tripe. — Select 2 lbs. of double tripe well 
cleaned and 'blanched, cut in pieces of rather less than a 
quarter of a pound each, put in a clean stew-pan with 1 pt. 
of milk, and one of wat(*r, 2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 1 tea- 
spoonful of pepper, 8 middle-sized onions carefully peeled; 



HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND GAME. 427 

set it on to boil, which it should do at first rather fast, then 
simmer till done, which will be in rather more than half an 
hour. Put it into a deep dish or tureen, and serve with the 
milk and onions. 



6!> 



^OAA'VcrAA Cl^/lh (Sai44^. 



When poultry is brought into the kitchen for use, it 
should be kept as cool as possible. The best position in 
which to place it is with the breast downward on a shelf 
or marble slab. The crop should be taken out. Choose 
fowls with a thin, transparent skin, white and delicate. 
Time required to boil poultry: a chicken will take about 20 
minutes, a fowl about 40 minutes, a small turkey 1| hours, 
a large turkey 2 hours or more. 

Preparation of Hashes, Gravies, and Sauces. — There is 
nothing worse for the health or for the palate than a poor 
hash, while a good hash is not only a favorite dish in most 
families, but an essential article of economy and convenience. 
For this reason a separate article is devoted to this subject. 
The following are the ways in which hashes are spoiled. 
The first is by cooking them. Meat, when once cooked, 
should only be heated. If it is again stewed or fried, it tends 
to make it hard or tough, and diminishes its flavor. The 
second is by frying the butter or gravy in which they are 
prepared. It has been shown that this is very injurious to 
the healthfulness of food. Butter and oils may be melted 
without changing their nature, but when cooked, they be- 
come much more indigestible and injurious to weak stom- 
achs. The third mode of injuring hashes is by putting in 
flour in such ways that it is not properly cooked. Flour 



428 OUB HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENT^. 

dredged on to hashes while they are cooking imparts the 
raw taste of dough. The fourth mode is by putting in 
so much water as to make them vapid, or else so much 
grease as to make them gross. The fifth is by seasoning 
them with so little care, that they either have very little 
savory taste, or else are so hot with pepper and spice as to 
be unhealthy. If the housekeeper will observe these cau- 
tions, or see that her cook does so, she may always have good 
and healtliful hashes. 

Boiled Fowl. — Take a young fowl and fill the inside 
with oysters ; place in a jar and plunge into a kettle of 
water; boil 1| hours; there will be a quantity of gravy in 
the jar from the juice of the fowl, and the oysters; make 
this into a white sauce, with the addition of egg, cream, or 
a little flour and butter; add oysters, or serve up plain with 
the fowl. This is very nice with the addition of a little pars- 
ley to the sauce. 

Roast Turkey or Chicken. — Having picked and drawn 
the fowls, wash them well in two or three waters; wipe 
them dry; dredge them with a little flour inside and out, 
and a little pepper and salt ; prepare a dressing of bread and 
cracker crumbs, fill the bodies and crops of the fowls and 
then bake them from 2 to 3 hours; baste them frequently 
while roasting ; stew the giblets in a saucepan ; j ust before 
serving, chop the giblets fine; after taking up the chicken 
and the water in which the giblets were boiled, add the 
chopped giblets to the gravy of the roast fowl ; thicken with 
a little flour, which has been previously wet with the water ; 
boil up and serve in a gravy-dish. E-oast chicken and tur- 
key should be accompanied with celery and jellies. 

To Boil a Turkey. — Make a stufiing for the craw of 



HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND GAME. 429 

chopped bread and butter, cream, oysters, and the yolks of 
Qggii ; sew it in, and dredge flour over the turkey, and put it 
to boil in cold water, with a spoonful of salt in it, and enough 
water to cover it well; let it simmer for 2 J hours, or if 
small, less time; skim it while boiling. It looks nicer if 
wrapped in a cloth dredged with flour; serve it with drawn 
butter, in which put some oysters. 

Roast Chickens. — Wash them clean outside and inside, 
stuff" as directed for turkeys, and baste with butter, lard, 
or drippings, and roast them about an hour. Chickens 
should be cooked thoroughly. Stew the inwards till tender 
and till there is but little water, chop them and mix in 
gravy from the dripping-pan, thicken with brown flour, 
season with salt, peppei-, and butter. Cranberry or new- 
made apple sauce is good with them. 

Baked Chicken. — Cut the fowl open and lay it flat 
in a pan, breaking down the breast and the back bones, 
dredge with flour and season well with salt and pepper 
and bits of butter ; put in a very hot oven until done, bast- 
ing frequently with melted butter, or when half done take 
out the chicken and finish by broiling it upon a gridiron 
over bright coals; pour over it melted butter and the juices 
in the pan in which it was baked. 

Dressing for Chicken or Turkey. — Chop bread crumbs 
quite fine, season well with pepper, salt, and plenty of 
butter, moisten with a very little water, and add a few 
oysters with a little of the liquor, if you please. The best 
authorities say the dressing is the finest when it crumbles as 
the fowl is cut. 

Dressing for Turkey. — One pint of soaked bread, 2 
table-spoonfuls of sage, 2 table-spoonfuls of summer savory. 



430 OUR HOMES AND THEIR A OOBNMEATS. 

2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 2 tea-spoonfuls of pepper, butter the 
size of an egg. 

Fried Chicken. — Cut the chicken in pieces, lay it in salt 
and water, changing the water several times, roll each piece 
in flour, fry in very hot lard or butter, season with salt and 
pepper, fry parsley with it also. Make a gravy of cream 
seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little mace, thickened with 
a little flour in the pan in which the chicken was fried, pour- 
ing off the lard. 

Curry. — To make curry with rabbit, chicken, or any 
other meat, flour the meat and fry it a nice light brown, fry 
also 2 large onions in the same way, mix a table-spoonful of 
curry powder, and a small quantity of cayenne in a tea-cup, 
with warm water, to the consistency of cream, and cover 
every part of the meat with the mixture ; have ready some 
nice stock or thin gravy, put all together in a stew-pan, and 
let it stew gently 20 minutes; before serving, slice 2 or 8 
apples, let them stew away ; this addition is thought to be a 
great improvement as it makes the curry milder. Some 
rice should be boiled very dry and served around the dish. 

Chicken Pie. — Stew chickens until tender, line the sides 
of a deep pie dish with nice pastry, put in the chicken and 
the water in which it has boiled (which should be but half a 
pint), season with a large piece of butter, salt, and pepper, 
and then cover loosely with crust. While this is baking, 
have ready a quart can of fine oysters, put on the fire 1 pt. 
of rich milk (or the li({uor of the oysters will do), let it come 
to a boil, thicken with a little flour, and season with butter, 
pepper, and salt ; pour this over the oysters boiling hot ; and 
about fifteen minutes before the pie is done, lift the crust 
and pour the oysters and all into the pie, then return to the 
oven to finish. 



HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND GAME. 431 

To Roast Wild Foivl. — Put an onion, salt, and hot water 
into a pan, and baste for 10 or 15 minutes; change the 
pan, put in a sKce of salt pork, and baste with butter and 
pork drippings very often, just before serving dredge lightly 
with flour and baste. Ducks take from 25 to 85 minutes to 
roast, and woodcocks and snipes 15 to 25. Do not draw or 
take off the heads of either. Garnish with fried or toasted 
bread, lemon, parsley, and currant jelly. 

Ducks. — When roasted, use dressing as for turkey, with 
the addition of a few slices of onion. Many cooks lay over 
the game slices of onion, which take away the fishy flavor, 
removing the onion before serving. Make a sauce with the 
drippings in the pan in which the game is roasted, and to 
which are put the chopped giblets, being previously well 
cooked; thicken the gravy with brown flour, moistened with 
water. Serve with currant jelly. 

Prairie Chickens, Partridges, and Quails. — Clean 
nicely, using a little soda in the water in which they are 
washed, rinse them and dry, and then fill them with dressing, 
sewing them up nicely, binding down the legs and wings 
with cords. Put them in a steamer over hot water, and let 
them cook until just done. Then place them in a pan with a 
little butter, set them in the o^'en and baste them frequently 
with melted butter until of a nice brown. They ought to 
brown nicely in about 15 minutes. Serve them on a platter, 
with sprigs of pai'sley alternating with currant jelly. 

Quail on Toast. — After the birds are nicely cleaned, 
cut them open down the back, salt and pepper them, and 
dredg'e with flour. Break down the breast and back bones, 
.so they will lie flat, and place them in a pan with very little 
water and butter in a hot oven, covering them up tightly 



432 OUR HOMES AND^THEIB ADORNMENTS. 

until nearly done. Then place them in a spider in hot butter, 
and fry a moment to a nice brown. Have ready slices of 
baker's bread, toasted and slightly buttered upon a platter. 
The toast should be broken down with a carving knife so 
that it will be tender. On this place the quail, make a 
sauce of the gravy in the pan, thicken slightly with browned 
flour, and pour over each quail and the toast. 

Pigeon Pie. — Make a fine puff paste, lay a border of it 
around a large dish, and cover the bottom with a veal cutlet, 
or a very tender steak free from fat and bone, season with 
salt, cayenne pepper, and mace. Prepare as many pigeons 
as can be put in one layer of the dish, put in each pigeon a 
small lump of butter, and season with pepper and salt; lay 
them in the dish breast downward, and cut in slices half a 
dozen of hard boiled eggs, and lay in with the birds; put in 
more butter, some veal broth, and cover the whole with 
crust. Bake slowly l-i hours. 

All salt meat should be put on in cold water, that the 
salt may be extracted while cooking. Fresh meat, which 
is boiled to be served with sauces at the table, sliould be put 
to cook in boiling water; when the outer fibers contract, the 
inner juices are preserved. 

For making soup, put the meat over in cold water, to 
extract the j uices for the broth. 

In boiling meats, if more water is needed, add that which 
is hot, and be careful to keep the water on the meat con- 
stantly boiling. 



HOW TO COOK MEATS. 433 

Remove the scum when it first begins to boil. The more 
gently meat boils, the more tender it will become. Allow 
twenty minutes for boiling each pound of fresh meat. 

Roast meats require a brisk fire. Baste often. Twenty 
minutes is required for roasting each pound of fresh meat. 
The variation in roasted meats consists simply in the method 
of preparing them to cook, before putting them in the oven. 
Some are to be larded, some stuffed with bread dressing, and 
others plain, only seasoning with pepper and salt. 

A piece of red pepper, cooked in a boiled dinner, is very 
nice. 

Roast Beef. — Prepare for the oven by dredging lightly 
with flour, and seasoning with salt and pepper ; place m the 
oven, and baste frequently while roasting. Allow a quarter 
of an hour for a pound of meat, if you like it rare ; longer if 
you like it well done. Serve with a sauce, made from the 
drippings in the pan, to which has been added 1 table- 
spoonful of Halford or Worcestershire sauce and 1 table- 
spoonful of tomato catsup. 

Beefsteak and Mushrooms.— Vut in a saucepan 1 oz. of 
butter, 1 small onion chopped fine, a little ground sage, and 
a little thyme, and put it over the fire ; when hot, shake m 
2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and when it becomes brown, put 
in 1 gill of water^ and let it boil for half an hour. Then 
add 3 table-spoonfuls of beef stock, a little salt, a little nut- 
meg and one wine-glass of sherry wme. Put in one can of 
mushrooms, and let it boil for 10 minutes. Pour this over 
a nicely broiled beefsteak. 

To Boil Corned Beef — Put the beef in water enough 
to cover it, and let it heat slowly and boil slowly, and be 
careful to take off the grease. Many think it much nu- 

28 



434 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

proved by boiling potatoes, turnips, and cabbages with it. 
In this case the vegetables must be peeled and all the grease 
carefully skimmed as fast as it rises. Allow about 20 min- 
utes of boiling for each pound of meat. 

To Cook a Havi. — Boil a common-sized ham 4 or 5 
hours, then skin the whole and fit it for the table. Set 
it in an oven for half an hour, then cover it thickly with 
pounded rusk or bread crumbs, and set it back for half an 
hour. Boiled ham is always improved by setting it into an 
oven for nearly an hour, till much of the fat fries out; 
this also makes it more tender. 

Spiced Beef. — 4 lbs. of round of beef chopped fine, all 
fat being removed ; add 3 doz. small crackers rolled fine, 4 
eggs, 1 cup of milk, 1 table-spoonful of ground mace, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of black pepper, 1 table-spoonful of melted butter ; 
mix well and put in any tin pan that it will just fill, pack- 
ing it well ; baste with butter and water, and bake 2 hours 
in a slow oven. 

To Gom Beef. — To each gallon of cold water, put 1 qt. 
rock salt, 1 oz. salt-petre and 4 oz. brown sugar, (it need 
not be boiled), as long as any salt remains undissolved, the 
meat will be sweet. If any scum should rise, scald and 
skim well ; add niore salt, salt-petre, and sugar ; as you put 
each piece of meat into the brine, rub over with salt. If 
the weather is hot, gash the meat to the bone, and put it in 
salt. Put a flat stone or some weight on the meat to keep 
it under the brine. 

Pickled Pork Equal to Fresh. — Let the meat cool thor- 
oughly, cut into pieces four to six inches wide, weigh them, 
and pa(-k as tight as possible, salting lightly. Cover the 
meat with brine as strong as possible. Next day pour off 



HOW TO COOK MEATS. 435 

a gallon of the brine and mix with it a table-spoonful of 
salt-peter for every hundred pounds of meat, and return it 
to the barrel. Let it stand one month, take out the meat 
and let it drain 12 hours. Put the brine into an iron kettle, 
add 1 qt. molasses or 2 lbs. sugar, and boil till clear. When 
cold return the meat to the barrel and pour on the brine. 
Cover it close, and you will have the sweetest meat you ever 
tasted. 

Mviton Chops. — Cut them nicely, clearing away all 
ragged ends and edges; fry for a few moments covered 
closely, and then dip each piece in cracker crumbs and 
beaten Ggg, or you may prepare them as for frying; then, 
lay them in a dripping-pan, and put into the oven to bake; 
baste frequently with a little melted butter and water. 

Roast F(C'a7.— Prepare a leg of veal for the oven by 
washing, di'ying, and larding it with strips of fat bacon or 
ham, and dredging it well with flour, and seasoning with 
salt and pepper ; baste frequently and serve with the gravy 
thickened. A roast fillet of veal should be prepared by 
stuffing it with bread crumbs, seasoned with chopped ham, 
summer savory, pepper and .salt. Dredge lightly with flour 
and bake. 

Fy-ied Calf's Liver. — Cut in thin slices, wash and 
drain, roll them in corn meal or cracked crumbs, and 
f r)' in fresh or salt pork gravy or butter. 

To Cook Sliced Ham. — Cut raw ham in slices, soak in 
scalding water half an hour, lay your slices in a frying-pan, 
pepper each, and lay on each slice a little made mustard ; 
pour in half a tea-sjxwnful of vinegar to each slice; fry 
quickly, turn often. When done take out, serve on a dish, 
add to the gravy 1 spoonful of wine, (if you have any 



43d OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

handy), and 1 tea-spoonful of sugar. Boil up once, pour 
over your ham, and serve. 

Baked Ham. — Most persons boil ham. It is much bet- 
ter baked, if baked right. Soak it for an hour in clean 
water and wipe it dry, next spread it all over with thin 
batter, and then put it into a deep dish with sticks under it 
to keep it out of the gravy. When it is fully done and the 
batter crusted on the flesh side, take off the skin and set it 
away to cool. 

To Boil Ham. — Wash and scrape the ham clean; put it 
on in cold water enough to cover it; put into the watt>r 2 
onions, 2 carrots, a head of celery, a dozen cloves and a 
handful of timothy hay ; boll without stopping until the skin 
will readily peel from the ham ; cover the ham with rolled 
crackers, or bread crumbs that have been browned and 
rolled, and bake in a slow oven for 2 hours. 

Chicken Salad. — Three chickens chopped fine, both light 
and dark meat, the juice of two lemons, 8 or 10 eggs boiled 
hard, the whites chopped fine and the yolks mashed fine, 
moisten with 6 tea-spoonfuls melted butter, 2 tea-spoonfuls 
sweet oil ; to which add 1 table-spoonful of mustard, 1 of 
pepper, ] of salt, 1 of sugai', 3 of cream; and last, add 6 
large bunches of celery chopped fine, with sufficient vinegar 
to moisten the whole. 

Chicken Salad, No. 2. — Boil one chicken tender, then 
take the meat and chop up, take 2 table-spoonfuls of mus- 
tard, 3 eggs boiled hard, chop the whites with the chickens, ' 
rub the yolks up fine with the mustard, 1 table-spoonful of 



SALADS, SA UCES, AND PICKLES. 437 

salt, 3 table-spoonfuls melted butter, 1 table-spoonful black 
pepper, vinegar enough to moisten it, chop 3 heads of celery 
to one chicken, mix all together and serve. 

Fish Salad. — Boil tender a white-fish or trout; chop 
&ie ; add same quantity chopped celery, cabbage, or lettuce ; 
season same as chicken salad. 

Gabhage Salad. — First prepare the cabbage by letting it 
stand for some time in cold water, in order to make it crisp ; 
dry well and shave as finely as possible. Choose a firm, 
white cabbage. Dressing: E,ub together a piece of butter 
the size of a walnut, and 1 table-spoonful of flour; stir in 2 
table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and scald for 1 minute ; then add 
the yolk of 1 egg (beaten) and two table-spoonfuls of 
cream ; salt and pepper to taste. 

Salad Dressing. — The yolk of 4 eggs, two-thirds of a 
cup of oil, red pepper, salt and mustard to taste, the juice of 
2 lemons, and last of all, 1 cup of thick cream. If the 
dressing is for chicken salad, use the oil or fat from the 
chicken instead of sweet oil. Be sure and put the cream in 
last, just before sending to the table. 

3Tint Sauce. — Mix 1 table-spoonful of white sugar to 
half a tea-cup of good vinegar ; add the mint and let it in- 
fuse for half an hour in a coal place before sending to the 
table. Serve with roast lamb or mutton. 

Celery Sauce. — Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of flour with half 
a tea-cup of butter; have ready a pint of boiling milk; stir 
the flour and butter into the milk ; take 3 heads of celery, 
cut into small bits, and boil for a few minutes in water, 
then strain it off"; put the celery into the melted butter, and 
keep it stirred over the fii^e for 5 or 10 minutes. This is 
very nice with boiled fowl or turkey. 



438 OUE HOMES ANJ> THEJli ADORNMENTS. 

Egg Sauce. — Take the yolks of 2 eggs boik>d hard; 
mash them with 1 tea-spoonful of mustard, a little pepper 
and salt, 3 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and 3 of sweet oil, A 
table-spoonful of catsup improves this for some. Nice for 
boiled fish. 

Tomato Sauce. — -36 ripe tomatoes, 6 green peppers, 2 
onions chopped fine, 2 cups of sugar, 2 table-spoonfuls of salt, 
2 tea-spoonfuls of ground cloves, 2 tea-spoonfuls of mustard, 
2 tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon, and 2 cups of vinegar; boil half 
a day. 

Fish Sauce. — \ lb. of fresh butter, 1 table-spoonful of 
finely chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and the juice 
of 2 lemons. Cream the butter; mix all well together, 
adding at the least 1 tea-spoonful of mayona/ise. Less lemon 
juice niay be used if preferred. 

Tomato Mustard. — 1 peck of ripe tomatoes; boil with 
2 onions, 6 red peppers, and 4 cloves of garlic, for 1 hour; 
then add one-half pt. or one-half lb. salt, 3 table-spoonfuls 
black pepper, one-half oz. ginger, one-half oz. allspice, 
one-half oz. mace, one-half oz. cloves; then boil again for 

1 hour longer, and when cold add 1 pt. vinegar and one- 
quarter pound of mustard; and if you like it very hot, a 
table-spoonful of cayenne. 

Horse-Radish Sauce. — 2 tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, 

2 of white sugar, one-half tea-spoonful of salt, and a gill of 
vinegar ; mix and pour over grated horse-radish. Excellent 
with beef. 

French Pudding Sauce. — Beat 4 oz. butter to a 
cream ; stir in one-quarter oz. brown sugar ; add the yolk 
of 1 egg and 1 gill of wine; put it on the stove, stirring all 
the time till it simmers. Grate nutmeg over it before send- 
ing it to the table. 



SALADS, SAUCES, AND PICKLES. 439 

Tomato Catsup. — Boil the tomatoes until quite soft, and 
rub them well through a sieve; to every quart add 2 oz. 
shalots and large red peppers, or 1 tea-spoonful cayenne pep- 
per, 1 oz. bruised ginger, 1 spoonful salt, a few cloves; 
boil until reduced one- third; 10 minutes before taking off 
the fire add one-half pt. of vinegar to each quart. 

Pickled Cherries. — 5 lbs. of cherries, stoned or not, 1 qt. 
of vinegar, 2 lbs. of sugar, one-half oz. of cinnamon, one- 
half oz. of cloves, one-half oz. of mace ; boil the sugar and 
vinegar and spices together, (grind the spices and tie them 
in a muslin bag), and pour hot over the cherries. 

Spiced Currants to he Eaten with Meats. — 4 qts. cur- 
rants, 1 pt. of vinegar, 3 lbs. of sugar, 1 table-spoonful cin- 
namon, 1 of allspice, 1 of cloves, 1 of nutmeg; cook 1 hour; 
keep in a cool place, tightly covered. 

Green-Tomato Pickles. — Cut one-half pk, of green, 
tomatoes and 6 large onions into thin slices ; let them remain 
in salt and water over night; then pour off the brine and 
put them in a preserving kettle with 4 table-spoonfuls of 
sugar, 4 of the best mustard, two tea-spoonfuls of ground 
cloves, 2 of cinnamon, 1 of cayenne pepper, and one of 
curry powder, and let them simmer for 1 hour; then put 
them in stone or glass jars. 

Pickled Cabbage. — Select solid heads, slice very fine, put 
into ajar, cover with boiling water; when cold, drain off 
the water, and season with grated horse-radish, salt, equal 
parts of black and red pepper, cinnamon, and cloves whole ; 
cover with strong vinegar. This is convenient and always 
ood. 

Spiced Tonruitoes. — To 4 lbs. of large red tomatoes, take 
2 lbs. of good brown sugar, 1 pt. of cider vinegar, one-half 



to 



440 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

oz. dovas, and one-half oz. of stick cinnamon; stew all to- 
gether in a preserving kettle until the tomatoes are cooked ; 
take the tomatoes out and put them on dishes to cool, letting 
the syrup go on simmering slowly ; when the tomatoes are 
cold, return them to the syrup for a little while; let them 
become cold before putting them into the jars. The syrup 
must be boiled down as thick as molasses, and poured cold 
over the tomatoes; tie them down with bladder or waxed 
paper. 

Chow Chow. — 2 qts. tomatoes, 2 white onions, one-half 
doz. green peppei-s, 1 doz. cucumbers, 2 heads of cabbage, 
all chopped fine ; let this stand over night ; sprinkle a tea- 
cup of salt in it. In the morning drain off the brine, and 
season with 1 table-spoonful celery seed, 1 oz. turmeric, one- 
half tea-spoonful cayenne pepper, 1 cup brown sugar, 1 oz. 
cinnamon, 1 oz. allspice, 1 oz. black pepper, one fourth oz. 
cloves, vinegar enough to cover; boil 2 hours. 

Ripe Tomato Picldes. — To 7 lbs. of ripe tomatoes add 
3 lbs. sugar, 1 qt. vinegar; boil them together 15 minutes; 
skim out the tomatoes and boil the syrup a few minutes 
longer; spice to suit the taste with cloves and cinnamon. 

Tomatoes Whole for Winter Use. — Fill a large stone 
jar with ripe tomatoes, then add a few whole cloves and a 
little sugar ; cover them well with one-half cold vinegar and 
one-half water; place a piece of flannel over the jar, well 
down into the vinegar, then tie down with paper. I have 
kept tomatoes in this way the year round, and can cheer- 
fully recommend them. Should mildew collect on the flan- 
nel it will not injure the tomatoes in the least. 

Fielded Oysters. — Wash the oysters and scald them in 
strong salt and water; skim them out and throw into cold 



BELISHES, 441 

water; scald whole peppers well in vinegar; let it get cold. 
Put the oysters in a stone jar; make liquor to cover them of 
the water they were scalded in, and vinegar. A cup of vine- 
gar to one quart liquor, to be used cold. 

Scrambled Eggs. — Beat up 6 eggs with 2 oz. of butter, 
1 table-spoonful of cream of new milk, a little chopped pars- 
ley, and salt ; put all in a saucepan, and keep stirring over 
the fire until it begins to thicken, when it should be imme- 
diately dished on buttered toast. 

French Toast. — To 1 Qgg thoroughly beaten, put 1 
cup of sweet milk and a little salt. Slice light bread, and 
dip into the mixture, allowing each slice to absorb some of 
the milk, then brown on a hot battered griddle, spread with 
butter, and serve hot. 

Breakfast Steak. — A nice steak of beef or veal ; pound it, 
if tough, with a steak mallet ; lay in a bakiag tin, dredge it 
lightly with flour, season with salt and pepper, and, if you 
like, a little chopped parsley; then put into the oven and 
bake for 20 or 30 minutes, or until sufficiently well done; 
put it on the platter, spread with butter. Dredge into the 
juices of the meat in the baking pan a little flour, and sea- 
son with butter; let this boil up and pour over the steak. 
This is very nice. 

A Nice Breakfast Dish. — Mince cold beef or lamb; if 
beef, put in a pinch of pulverized cloves; if lamb, a pinch 
of summer savory to season it, very little pepper and some 
salt, and put it into a baking dish ; mash potatoes and mix 
them with cream and butter and a little salt, and spread 



442 OUE HOMES AAJ) THMIR ADORNMENTS. 

them over the meat; beat up an egg with cream or milk, a 
very little; spread it over the potatoes, and bake it a short 
time, sufficient to warm it through and brown the potatoes. 

Rice Cakes. — 1 tea-cup of soft boUed rice, the yolk of 
1 &gg, a pinch of salt, 2 table-spoonfuls of sifted flour, beaten 
well, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and gi-avy ; lay pie crust 
Tound the edge of the platter, and cover the same; bake a 
nice brown in the oven. 

To Stew Mushrooms. — Peel them and put them to stew 
in some milk till tender ; when sufficiently done, add to them 
some butter and flour mixed together, a little cayenne, and 
some salt; part cream instead of milk will improve them. 

Excellent Omelet. — 6 eggs, whites and yolks beaten sep- 
arately; one-half pint of milk, 6 tea-spoonfuls of corn 
starch, 1 tea-spoonful of baking powder, and a little salt; 
add the whites, beaten to a stiff" froth, last; cook in a little 
butter. 

Cheese Scollop. — Soak 1 cup of dry bi-ead crumbs in 
fresh milk. Beat into this 3 eggs; add 1 table-spoonful of 
butter and one-half pound of grated cheese ; strew u jwn the 
top sifted bi'ead crumbs, and bake in the oven a delicate 
brown. An excellent relish when eaten with thiu slices of 
bread and butter. 

White Corn Bread. — 1 pt. of meal thoroughly scalded 
with hard boiling water; butter the size of an egg, and 1 
well-beaten egg; add milk to make it just thin enough to 
flow over the pan. Have the batter an inch thick, and then 
bake. 



PUDDI^^GS. 443 



fCubhi'H^. 



Suet Puddings. — 2 cups of chopped suet, 2 of raisins, 2 
of molasses, 4 of flour, 1 of milk, 3 tea-spoonfuls of baking- 
powder; boil 3| hours; eat wdiile hot. Sauce for same: 1 
cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, 1 egg, 1 table-spoonful 
of wine or vinegar; beat 15 minutes and heat to a scald. 

English Fruit Pudding. — 1 lb. currants, 1 lb. stoned 
raisins, 1 lb. sugar, 1 lb. suet, 2 lbs. grated or soaked bread, 6 
eggs, one-half tea-spoonful saleratus, 1 tea-spoonful salt, and 
] grated nutmeg ; crumb the soft part of the bread fine ; soak 
the crust with boiling milk, or water will do; beat up the 
eggs and put all together, mix thoroughly with the hands; 
take a square piece of cotton cloth and lay it in a tin pan, 
put the pudding into the cl(3th and tie down close ; put into 
a pot of boiling water, and boil 5 hours; as the water boils 
away, keep adding more. 

Chocolate Pudding. — 1 qt. milk, 3 table-spoonfuls sugar, 
4 table-spoonfuls corn starch, 2| table-spoonfuls chocolate; 
scald the milk over hot water; dissolve the corn starch in a 
little scalded milk, and before it thickens add the chocolate 
dissolved in boiling water; stir until sufficiently cooked. 
Use with cream, or sauce of butter and sugar stirred to a 
cream. 

Cottage Pudding. — 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of sweet milk, 
1 pt. of flour, 2 table-spoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tea-spoon- 
ful of soda, 2 tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, 1 egg. 

Rice and Apple Pudding. — 1 cup rice boiled very soft, 
stir well to keep from burning; 8 large apples, stewed; 
press the pulp through a sieve, mix it thoroughly with the 
rice ; add half a tea-spoonful of butter and yolks of two eggs 



444 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

well beaten ; sweeten to taste. Bake. Beat the whites of 
the eggs and put on top. It is nicer almost cold. 

Baked Indian Pudding. — 2 qts. scalded milk with salt, 
1| cups Indian meal (yellow); 1 table-spoonful of ginger, 
letting this stand 20 minutes; 1 cup molasses, 2 eggs (sal- 
eratus, if no eggs), a piece of butter the size of a common 
walnut. Bake 2 hours. Splendid. 

Sago and Apple Pudding. — Boil a cup of sago in 
water with a little cinnamon, a cup of sugar, lemon fla- 
voring; cut apples into thin slices, mix them with the sago; 
after it is well boiled, add a small piece of butter ; pour into 
pudding dish and bake half an hour. 

Orange Pudding. — Peel and cut five good oranges into 
thin slices, taking out all seeds ; put over them a coffee cup 
of fine white sugar. Let a pint of milk get boiling hot, by 
setting in hot water ; add the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, 
1 table-spoonful of corn starch made smooth in a little cold 
milk ; stir all the time, and as soon as it thickens pour it over 
the fruit. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add a table-spoon- 
ful of sugar, and spread it over the top for frosting ; set in 
tb.e oven a minute to harden. Can be eaten hot, but Ls best 
cold. 

Floating Island. — Put a quart of milk to boil, su- 
gar, salt, and flavoring to taste; separate 3 eggs; beat the 
whites to a stiff froth ; drop them in the boiling milk from 
a table-spoon, letting them remain half a second; then 
take 2i table-spoonfuls of corn starch; put it into the boil- 
ing milk, let it remain 5 minutes, then add the yolks, let 
it boil 2 minutes, and take it off to cool, then place it in 
a glass dish, and drop the whites upon it with a spoonful 
of currant jelly on each. 



PUDDING SAUCES AND PIES. 445 



'^■ubbi^na Scnic<2^. 



Wine Sauce. — 2 tea-cups of sugar, 1 tea-cup of butter, 
stir to a cream, beat 2 eggs very light, and stir all together, 
add 1 cup of wine, mix and set on top of tea-kettle of boil- 
ing water. It must not be put on the stove, nor boil. 

Pudding Sauce. — 2 eggs well beaten, 1 cup pulverized 
sugar. When mixed pour over 1 cup boiling milk, and stir 
rapidly. Flavor as you please. 

Hard Sauce for Pudding, Rice, etc. — Take 1 tea-cup 
sugar, one-half tea-cup butter, stir together until light, fla- 
vor with wine or essence of lemon. Smooth the top with a 
knife, and grate nutmeg over it. 



Fine Puff Pastry. — 1 lb. of flour, a little more for roll- 
ing-pin and board, and half a pound of butter and half a 
pound of lard. Cut the butter and lard through the flour 
(which should be sifted) into small thin shells and mix with 
sufficient ice- water to roll easily. Avoid kneading it, and 
use the hands as little as possible in mixing. 

Plainer Pastry. — 1 cup of butter, 1 cup of lard, a little 
salt, cut through the flour and mix lightly together. Some 
cooks mix the lard tlu-ough the flour first, and then mix 
with water and roll out. Cut the batter into thin sheets, 
fold over and lay aside, cutting off" from the roll what 
is used for the bottom or top crust as wanted. 

Lemon Pie. — The juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 cup 
of water, 1 table-spoonful corn starch, 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 



446 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

and a piece of butter the size of a small egg; boil the water, 
wet the coin starch with a little cold water and stir it in ; 
when it boils up, pour it on the sugar and butter; after it 
cools add the egg and lemon. Bake with upper and under 
crust. 

Pumpkin Pie. — 1 qt. of strained pumpkins, 2 qts. 
rich milk, 1 tea-spoonful of salt, and 2 of ginger, cooked 
with the pumpkins ; 6 well-beaten eggs, and 1 1 tea-cups of 
sugar. 

Mince Pie. — 3 cups chopped cooked meat, 6 cups of 
apples chopped fine; make moist with boiled cider and 
sweeten with molaases or dark sugar; spice to your taste 
using cloves, cinnamon, allspice, and a very little black 
pepper; put currents and raisins into the pies when ready 
to bake. 

Another: — 3 lbs. of raisins, stone and chop them a 
little; 3 lbs. of currants, 3 lbs. of sugar, 3 lbs. of suet 
chopped very fine, 2 oz. candied lemon peel, 2 oz. of 
candied orange peel, 6 large apples grated, 1 oz. of cinna- 
mon, 2 nutmegs, the juice and gi-ated rinds of three lemons, 
and one-half pt. of brandy. Excellent. 

Rhubarb Pie. — 1 cup of stewcxl pie-plant, 1 cup of sugar, 
1 table-spoonful of flour, yolk of 1 egg; flavor with lemon; 
beat all together thoroughly. Don't use pie-plant too hot 
for fear it will cook the egg. Bake with just an under 
erust, and use the white of an egg for frosting. 

Goeoanut Pie. — One-lialf lb. of grated cocoanut, three- 
quarters of a pound of white sugar, 6 ounces of butter, 5 
eggs (the whiter only), 2 table-spoonfuls rose-water, 1 tea- 
spoonful nutmeg. Cream the butter and sugar, beat till 
very light, and add the rose-water; then add the cocoanut 



HO^r TO MAKE PIES. 447 

with as little and light beating as passible; finally whip in 
the stiffened whites of the eggs with a few skillful strokes 
and bake at once in open shells. Eat cold with powdered 
sugar sifted over them. These are very pretty and delicious 
pies. 

Cream Pie. — Boil nearly 1 pint of new milk; take 2 
small table-spoonfuls of corn starch beaten with a little milk ; 
to this add 2 eggs; when the milk has boiled, stir this m 
slowly with 1 scant tea-cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, 
and 2 tea-spoonfuls of lemon. Cakes: 3 eggs, 1 cup of 
white sugar, Ih cups of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of baking- 
powder, mix it in flour; 3 table-spoonfuls of cold water; 
bake in two pie pans in a quick oven; split the cake while 
hot, and spread in the cream. 

Cranberry Tart. — Take cranberries, pick and wash 
them in several waters, and pat them into a dish with the 
juice of half a lemon, one-quarter of a pound of moist sugar 
or pounded loaf sugar to 1 qt. of cranberries; cover it with 
puff* paste or short crust, and bake it three-quarters of an 
hour. If short crust is used, draw it from the oven 5 
minutes before it is done, and ice it ; return it to the oven, 
and send it to the table cold. 

Custard Pie. — Make a custard of the yolks of 3 eggs 
with milk, sea.son to taste; bake it in an ordinary crust; 
put it in a brick oven, that the crust may not be heavy, 
and as soon as that Ls heated remove it to a place in an 
oven of a more moderate heat, that the custard may bake 
slowly and not curdle; when done, beat the whites to a 
froth; add sugar and spread over the top, and return to the 
oven to brown slightly ; a small pinch of salt added to a cus- 
tard heightens the flavor; a little soda in the crust prevents 
it from beinij heavv. Yerv nice. 



448 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Rice Custard. — To half a cup of rice, add 1 qt. of milk 
and a little salt; steam 1 hour, or until quite soft; beat the 
yolks of 4 eggs with 4 table-spoonfuls of white sugar; add 
this just before taking off the rice; stir in thoroughly, but 
do not let it boil any more ; flavor with vanilla. Beat the 
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, with sugar ; after putting 
the mixture into the pudding dish in which you serve it, 
put the whites over it, and let it slightly brown in the oven. 

Boiled Custard. — 2 table-spoonfuls of corn starch to 1 
qt. of milk; mix the corn .starch with a small quantity of 
the milk and flavor it ; beat up 2 eggs. Heat the remainder 
of the milk to near boiling, then add the mixed corn starch, 
the eggs, 4 table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little butter and salt. 
Boil it 2 minutes, stirring briskly. 

Apple Custard. — Take 6 tart apples, pare and quarter 
them, put into a baking dish with 1 cup of water ; cook until 
tender, but not to pieces, then turn them into a pudding 
dish and sprinkle sugar over to cover them ; beat 8 eggs 
with sugar, mix with them 3 pts. of milk and a little nut- 
meg; turn it over the apples, and bake 25 minutes. 

Trifle. — Slice sponge cake into thin layers spread with 
jam, soak in brandy or wine; put into a deep dish; make a 
thin custard of 1 qt. milk and 3 eggs; sweeten to taste, 
and pour over the cake. Take one-quarter pound almonds, 
pour boiling water on them so as to remove the peel, cut 
fine, and sprinkle over the custard; take 1 pt. of cream, 
whipped and sweetened, and lay over the custard. 

Cocoanut Drops. — To one grated cocoanut, add half its 



BREAD -MAKING. 449 

weight in sugar and the white of one egg, cut to a stiff 
froth; mix thoroughly and drop on buttered white paper or 
tin sheets. Bake 15 minutes. 

A Nice Dessert Dish. — Fill a quart bowl with alternate 
layers of thinly sliced red apples and sugar, and add half a 
cup of water, cover with a saucer, held in place by a 
weight; bake slowly three hours; let it stand until cold, 
and you will turn out a round mass of clear red slices, im- 
bedded in firm jelly. For an accompaniment to a dessert 
of blanc mange, rennet custard, cold rice pudding, or sim- 
ilar dishes, or even with nice bread and butter, there is 
nothing better. 

Chocolate Caramels. — 1 cup of grated chocolate, 3 cups 
of sugar, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of milk, and a small piece 
of butter. Boil for about 20 minutes, stirring all the time; 
pour into a buttered pan, and when nearly cold mark off in 
small squares. 

Charlotte Russe. — Take 1 qt. of thin cream, sweeten and 
flavor, whip the cream until all is a froth ; then take half a 
box of gelatine, put in as little cold water as possible to soak, 
and set on the stove to melt; let the gelatine cool before 
putting into the cream. Have a dish ready lined with 
cake or lady-fingers, pour the cream into it. and set on ice 
until ready for use. 

In the composition of good bread there are three impor- 
tant requisites, — good flour, good yeast, and strength to 
knead it well. Flour should be white and dry, crumbling 
easily again after it is pressed in the hand. 

29 



4 

450 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

A very good method of ascertaining the quahty of yeast 
will be to add a little flour to a very small quantity, setting 
it in a warm place. If in the course of 10 or 15 minutes 
it rises, it will do to use. 

When you make bread, first set the sponge with warm 
milk or water, keeping it in a warm place until quite light. 
Then mold this sponge by adding flour into one large loaf, 
kneading it well. Set this to rise again, and when suffi- 
ciently light mold it into smaller loaves, let it rise again, 
then bake. Care should be taken not to get the dough too 
stiff with flour; it should be as soft as it can be to knead 
well. To make bread or biscuits a nice color, wet the dough 
over the top with water just before putting into the oven. 
The flour should always be sifted. 

Yeast. — 6 good potatoes grated raw, a little hop tea, 1 
qt. of boiling water, three-fourths cup of brown sugar, one- 
half tea-spoonful of salt; when cold, add yeast to make it 
rise. Keep it covered and in a cool place. 

Another. — Put 2 table-spoonfuls of hops into a muslin 
bag and boil them in 3 qts. of water for a few minutes; 
have ready 1 qt. of hot mashed potatoes, put in 1 cup of 
flour, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, and 1 of salt ; pour over the 
mixture the boiling hop water, strain through a colander, 
put 1 pt. or less of fresh baker's yeast, or 2 cakes of yeast, 
in whUe it is warm, and set it in a warm place to rise. This 
yeast will keep 3 or 4 weeks, if set in a cool place. In mak- 
ing it from time to time, use a bowl of the same to raise the 
fresh with. 

Boston Brown Bread. — To make 1 loaf: Rye meal un- 
sifted, half a pt. ; Indian meal sifted, 1 pt. ; sour milk 1 pt. ; 
molasses half a gill. Add 1 tea-spoonful of salt, 1 tea-spoon- 



BREAD -MAKING. 451 

f ul of soda dissolved in a little hot water, stir well, put in 
a greased pan, let it rise 1 hour, and steam 4 hours. 

Bread. — Take 4 qts. of sifted flour, 1 tea-cupful of yeast, 
a pinch of salt, and wet with warm milk and water till stiff 
enough to knead. Work it on the board until it requires no 
more flour. If made at night the bread will be light enough 
to work over and put in pans early in the morning. This 
quantity will make two large loaves. One-third of the 
lump may be taken for rolls, which can be made by work- 
ing in butter the size of an egg, and setting aside to rise 
again; when light the second time make out in oblong 
shapes; cover them with a cloth and let them rise again. 
As soon as they break apart, bake in a quick oven. They 
will not fail to be nice if they are baked as soon as they 
seam. This is the great secret of white, flaky rolls. Two 
or three potatoes will improve the bread. Good housekeep- 
ers always have flour sifted in readiness for use, and never 
use it in any other way. 

Muffins. — 1 table-spoonful of butter, 2 table-spoonfuls 
sugar, 2 eggs; stir all together; add 1 cup of sweet milk, 
3 tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, flour to make a stiff bat- 
ter. Bake 20 minutes in a quick oven. 

Waffles. — 1 qt. of sweet or sour milk, 4 eggs, two- thirds 
of a cup of butter, one-half a tea-spoonful of salt, 3 tea-spoon- 
fuls of baking powder; flour enough to make a nice batter. 
If you use sour milk leave out the baking powder and use 2 
tea-spoonfuls of soda. Splendid. 

Corn Bread. — One-half pt. of buttermilk, one-half pt. 
of sweet milk, sweeten the sour milk with one-half tea- 
spoonful of soda; beat 2 eggs, whites and yolks together; 
pour the milk into the eggs, then thicken with about 9 table- 



452 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

spoonfuls of sifted corn meal. Put the pan on the stove 
with a piece of lard the size of an q^^; when melted, pour 
it in the batter. By stirring this lard it will grease the pan 
to bake in. Add a tea-spoonful of salt. 

Graham Biscuits. — 1 qt. of Graham flour, 3| heaping 
tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, 1 tea-spoonful of salt, and 1 
of butter. Make into soft dough with milk. 

Soda Biscuits. — To each qt. of flour add 1 table-spoon- 
ful of shortening, one-half tea-spoonful of salt, and 3| heap- 
ing tea-spoonfuls of good baking powder; mix baking 
powder thoroughly through the floui-, then add the other 
ingredients. Do not knead, and bake quick. To use 
cream tartar and soda, take the same proportions without 
the baking powder, using instead 2 heaping tea-spoonfuls 
cream tartar and 1 of soda. If good they will bake in five 
minutes. 

Strawberry Shortcake. — Make good biscuit crust, bake 
in two tins of same shape and size, mix berries with plenty 
of sugar, open the shortcake, butter well and place the berries 
in layers, alternated with the crust; have the top layer of 
berries, and over all put charlotte russe or whipped cream. 

Orange Shortcake. — Make a nice shortcake, spread in 
layers of sliced oranges with sugar and a little cream. To 
be eaten with sweetened cream. 

Apple Fritters. — 1 tea-cupful of sweet milk, 1 table- 
spoonful of sweet light dough, dissolved in milk, 3 eggs 
beaten separately, 1 tea-spoonful of salt, 1^ tea-cupfuls of 
flour, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, the grated peel of a lemon, 
and peeled apples sliced without the core. Drop into hot 
lard with a piece of apple in each one, and sprinkle with 
powdered or spiced sugar. Let them stand after making 
and they will be lighter. Good. 



BBEAD-MAKING. 453 

Buckwheat Cakes. — 1 qt. of buckwheat flour, one-half 
a tea-cupful of corn meal or wheat flour, a little salt, and 
2 table-spoonfuls of syrup. Wet these with cold or warm 
water to a thin batter, and add, lastly, 4 good table-spoon- 
fuls of baking powder. 

Fritters. — 1 pt. sweet milk, 4 eggs, 1 qt. flour and 3 
tea-spoonfuls baking powder sifted together. Serve warm 
with maple syrup. 

Rolls. — To the quantity of light bread dough that you 
would take for twelve persons, add the white of 1 egg well 
beaten, 2 table-spoonfuls of white sugar, and 2 table-spoonfuls 
of butter ; work these thoroughly together ; roll out about 
one-half an inch thick ; cut the size desired, and spread one 
with melted butter and lay another upon the top of it. 
Bake delicately, when they have risen. 

French Rolls. — 1 qt. flour, 2 eggs, one-half pt. milk, 1 
table-spoonful of yeast, knead well ; let it rise till morning. 
Work in 1 oz. of butter and mold in rolls; bake imme- 
diately. 

Cream Cakes. — 6 eggs, beaten separately, one-half pt. of 
sour cream, 1 pt. of sweet milk, 1 and one-half tea-spoonfuls 
of baking powder, flour enough to make a thin batter; bake 
in cups. 

Mush. — Indian or oatmeal mush is best made in the fol- 
lowing manner: Put fresh water in a kettle over the fire to 
boil, and put in some salt; when the water boils, stir in 
handful by handful corn or oatmeal until thick enough for 
use. In order to have excellent mush, the meal should be 
allowed to cook well, and long as possible while thin, and 
before the final handful is added. When desired to be fried 
for breakfast, turn into an earthen dish and set away to 



454 OUB mOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

cool. Then cut in slices when you wish to fry; dip each 
piece in beaten eggs and fry on a hot griddle. 

In making cake, it is very desirable that the materials be 
of the finest quality. Sweet, fresh butter, eggs, and good 
flour are the first essentials. The process of putting together 
is also quite an important feature, and where other methods 
are not given in this work by contributors, it would be well 
for the young housekeeper to observe the following direc- 
tions : Never allow the butter to oil, but soften it by putting 
it in a moderately warm place before you commence other 
preparations for your cake ; then put it into an earthen dish 
(tin, if not new, will discolor your cake as you stir it) and add 
your sugar; beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the 
yolks of the eggs, then the milk, and lastly the beaten whites 
of the eggs and flour. Spices and liquors may be added after 
the yolks of the eggs are put in, and fruit should be put in 
with the flour. 

The oven should be pretty hot for small cakes, and mod- 
erate for larger. To ascertain if a large cake is sufficiently 
baked, pierce it with a broom-straw through the center ; if 
done, the straw will come out free from dough ; if not done^ 
dough will adhere to the straw. Take it out of the tin 
about fifteen minutes after it is taken from the oven, not 
sooner, and do not turn it over on the top to cool. 

Icing. — The following rules should be observed where 
boiled icing is not used: — 

Put the whites of your eggs in a shallow earthen dish, 



BEGIPES FOR CAKE. 455 

and allow at least a quarter of a lb., or sixteen table-spoon- 
fuls, of the finest white sugar for each egg. Take part of 
the sugar at first and spri22]d^ over the eggs ; beat them for 
about half an hour, stirring in gradually the rest of the 
sugar, then add the flavor. If you use the juice of a lemon, 
allow more sugar. Tartaric acid and lemon juice whiten 
icing. It may be shaded a pretty pink with strawberry 
syrup, or colored yellow by putting the juice and rind of a 
lemon in a thick muslin bag and squeezing it hard into the 
egg and sugar. 

If the cake is well dredged with flour after baking, and 
then carefully wiped before the icing is put on, it will not 
run, and can be spread more smoothly. Put frosting on the 
cake in large spoonfuls, commencing at the center, then 
spread it over the cake with a large knife, dipping it occa- 
sionally in cold water. Dry the frosting on the cake in a 
cool dry place. 

Boiled Icing. — 1 pt. granulated sugar, moisten thor- 
oughly with water sufiicient to dissolve it when heated, and 
let it boil until it threads from the spoon, stirring often; 
while the sugar is boiling, beat the whites of 2 eggs tiU they 
are firm, then when thoroughly beaten, turn them into a 
deep dish, and when the sugar is boiled, turn it over the 
whites, beating all together rapidly until of the right con- 
sistency to spread over the cake. Flavor with lemon, if pre- 
ferred. This is sufficient for two loaves. 

Chocolate Cake. — 1 cup of butter, 1 cup of milk, 3 cups 
of sugar, 4 cups of flour, 6 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of soda, 2 
tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar; bake in layers like jelly 
cake. Icing for cake, to place between : 1 cup of sugar, 1 
cake of chocolate, and the whites of 2 eggs whipped together. 



456 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Cocoanut Cake. — 1 cup of butter, 3 of sugar, 1 of milk, 
4 of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of soda, 2 of cream of tartar, 5 
eggs; bake in layers like jelly cake. Icing to place be- 
tween the layers : Half a lb. of white sugar to the whites of 
2 eggs, whip the eggs, add the grated cocoanut, and place 
between the layers. 

Wedding Cake. — 5 lbs. of seeded raisins, 2 lbs of cur- 
rants, 1 lb. of citron, 12 eggs, 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar 
(brown), 1 cofFee-cup of molasses, a little brandy, 1 tea-cup 
of spices. 

GhefiLp Good Cake. — 1 cup of sugar, one-fourth cup of 
butter, three-fourths cup of cold water. If cups of flour, 
whites of 2 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of lemon, bakifig powder 
used. 

Gold Cake. — One-half cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 
one-half cup of milk, 3 of flour, 3 tea-spoonfuls of baking 
powder, and yolks of 4 eggs. 

For the silver cake use the same recipe, only in place of 
the yolks of eggs use the whites of 4 eggs. 

For marble cake, same recipe, using 1 cup of brown 
sugar, 1 cup of molasses, and some spices, and drop it in the 
dish on the white cake or silver recipe. 

Jelly Cake. — 3 eggs, 1 small tea-cupful of sugar, 1 cup 
of flour, whites and yolks of the eggs beaten together; flavor, 
and bake in 2 layers, in a quick oven. 

Fruit Cake. — 2 lbs. of stoned raisins, 2 lbs. of currants, 
1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar, 1| lbs. of flour, 10 eggs, 1 
wine-gla^ of brandy, 1 wine-glass of wine, 1 table-spoonful 
of cloves, 1 table-spoonful of allspice, 2 table-spoonfuls of 
cinnamon, 1 nutmeg, 1 tea-spoonful of sweet almond meats 
blanched and cut in slices, 2 oz. of candied lemon, 2 oz. of 



RECIPES FOB CAKE. 457 

citron; a little molasses improves it, nearly a tea-cupful;* 
flour the fruit, using that weighed out for the cake ; put a 
half tea-spoonful of soda or 1 tea-spoonful of baking-powder 
with it on the fruit ; bake 3 hours, slowly. 

Frosting for Cake. — 1 cup frosting sugar, 2 table-spoon 
f uls of water, boiled together ; take it off the stove and stir 
in the white of 1 egg beaten to a stiff froth ; stir all together 
well ; then frost your cake with it, and you will never want 
a nicer frosting than this. 

Cream Filled Cakes. — These delicious cakes are very 
easily made if care is taken to have the water boiling. 
Measure out one-half pt. and put in a small kettle ; immedi- 
ately after it comes to a boil again put in two-thirds of a 
cup of butter and 1 and one-half cups of fiour; stir briskly 
for a moment, leaving it over the fire ; remove this mixture 
and place in a dish where it will get entirely cold; beat 5 
large fresh eggs very thoroughly, then stir in your cold 
mixture a spoonful at a time; stir it all until smooth and 
free from lumps ; drop them upon a greased dripping-pan in 
small pear-shaped cakes; bake half an hour in a real hot 
oven; don't be afraid they will burn unless you see them 
doing so. When done they will be hollow inside, of a bright 
brown color; if not well done they will flatten. The oven 
must be hot when you put them in, and if kept so success is 
sure. 

Filling or Cream : Put a little more than 1 pt. of milk 
in a pail and set it in boiling water; beat 2 eggs, two-thirds 
cup of corn starch, one full cup sugar, one-half tea-spoonful 
salt, and some vanilla, thoroughly together; add a full half 
cup of milk, and stir all into yoar boiling mUk; it should be 
very thick ; cut open 3^our cakes near the bottom and fill 
very full of cream ; be sure the cream is cold. 



458 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Glittering squares of colored ice, 
Sweetened with sjnrups, tinctured with spice ; 
Creams, and cordials, and sugared dates ; 
Syrian apples, Othmanee quinces, 
Limes and citrons and apricots. 
And wines that are known to Eastern princes. 
****** 

And all that the curious palate could wish, 

Pass in and out of the cedarn doors. — T. B. Aldrich. 

Directions for Freezing. — Use 1 part of coarse table 
salt to 2 parts of ice broken into pieces about the 
size of a walnut. This should be firmly packed around 
the cream pail to the height of the freezer. For 3 pints of 
cream, 1^ pints of water should be poured over the ice in 
the freezer, and for every additional quart of cream 1 pint 
of water should be added to the ice after packing. When 
there is no ice-cream freezer convenient, ices may be frozen 
by putting the cream to be frozen in a tin pail with a close 
cover. The ice and salt for packing may be put into a larger 
pail and packed firmly around the pail of cream to be frozen. 
Let this stand to chill for 20 or 80 minutes, then remove the 
cover and stir the freezing mixture within until stiff. Then 
repack, cover the whole closely with a woolen cloth or car- 
pet and leave for an hour or two in a cool place. 

Currant Ice. — 1 pt. of currant juice, 1 lb. of sugar, and 
1 pt. of water ; put into freezer, and when partly frozen add 
the whites of 3 eggs well beaten. 

Orange and Lemon Ices. — The rind of 3 oranges grated 
and steeped a few moments in a little more than a pint 
of water; strain one pint of this on a pound of sugar and 



PBESEBVING AND CANNING FBUITS. 459 

then add 1 pint of orange or lemon juice; pour into the 
freezer, and when half frozen add the whites of four eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth. 

Strawberry Ice-Cream. — Mash with a potato poundei* in 
an earthen bowl, 1 qt. of strawberries with 1 lb. of sugar, 
rub it through the colander and add 1 qt. of sweet cream 
and freeze. Very ripe peaches or coddled apples may be 
used instead of strawberries. 

Ice-Cream. — 1 pt. milk, yolks of 2 eggs, 6 oz. sugar, 1 
table-spoonful corn starch; scald until it thickens; when 
cool, add 1 pt. whipped cream and the whites of 2 eggs 
beaten stiff. Sweeten to taste, flavor and freeze. 

** Fruit of all kinds, in coat 
Rough, or smooth rind, or bearded husk, or shell, 
She gathers tribute large, and on the board 
Heaps with unsparing hand." — Paradise Lost. 

Bring me berries, or such cooling fruit 

As the kind, hospitable woods provide. — Covyper. 

Fruits for preserving should be carefully selected, remov- 
ing all that are imperfect. They are in the best condition 
when not fully ripe, and as soon as possible after they are 
picked. Small fruits should not be allowed to stand over 
night after they are picked when they are to be preserved. 
Use only the finest sugar for preserving. When fruit is 
sealed in glass cans, wrap paper of two or three thicknesses 
around the cans. The chemical action of light will affect 
the quality of the preserves when perfectly air-tight. "With 
this precaution, glass cans are preferable to any other for 



460 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

preserving fruit. One-half a pound of sugar to a pound of 
fruit, is a good rule for canned fruit, although many house- 
keepers use but one-quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound 
of fruit. 

An excellent rule for canning the larger fruits, as peaches, 
pears, etc., is to place them in a steamer over a kettle of boil- 
ing water, first laying a cloth in the bottom of the steamer. 
Fill this with the fruit and cover tightly. Let them steam 
for 15 minutes, or until they can be easily pierced with 
a fork, (some fruits will require a longer time). Make a 
syrup of sugar of the right consistency. As the fruit is 
steamed, drop each for a moment into the syrup, place 
in the cans, having each one-half full of fruit, and fill 
up with the hot syrup, then cover and seal. 

Preserved Peaches. — Select Peaches of fine quality and 
firm. If too ripe they are not likely to keep perfectly. 
Pare and place them in a steamer over boiling water 
and cover tightly; an earthen plate placed in the steamer 
under the fruit will preserve the juices which afterward 
may be strained and added to the syrup. Let them steam 
for 15 minutes or until they can be easily pierced with 
a fork ; make a syrup of the first quality of sugar, and as 
the fruit is steamed, drop each peach into the syrup for a few 
seconds, then take out and place in the cans ; when the cans 
are full, pour the hot syrup over the fruit, and seal immedi- 
ately. Inexperienced house- wives will do well to remember 
that the syrup should be well skimmed before being poured 
over the fruit. We prefer the proportions of half a pound of 
sugar to a pound of fruit for canning, although many excel- 
lent house-keepers use less. This rule is excellent for all the 
large fruits — as pears, quinces, apples, etc. 



PBESEBVING AND CANNING FRUITS. 461 

Preserved Pears. — To 6 lbs. of pears, 4 lbs. of sugar, 2 
coffee cups of water, add the juice of 2 lemons, and the rind of 
1, a handful of whole ginger ; boil all together for 20 minutes, 
then put in your pears and boil till soft, say about a quarter 
of an hour. Take them out and boU your syrup a little 
longer. Then put back your fruit and give it a boil ; bottle 
while hot, adding a little cochineal to give it a nice color. 

Preserved Apples. — Weigh equal quantities of good 
brown sugar and apples; peel, core, and cut the apples into 
small square pieces ; make a syrup of 1 pt. of water to 3 lbs. 
of sugar, boil untU pretty thick, then add the apples, the 
grated peel of a lemon or two, a little whole white ginger 
(if liked) ; boil until the apples are clear and begin to fall. 

Preserved Cherries. — Stone the fruit, weigh it, and for 
every pound take three-fourths pound sugar. First dissolve 
the sugar in water in the proportion of 1 pt. of water to 1|^ 
lbs. of sugar; then add the fruit and let it boil as fast as 
possible for half an hour, till it begins to jelly. As soon as. 
it thickens put into pots, cover with brandied paper, next the 
fruit, and then cover closely from the air. 

Canned Cherries. — Prepare in the same manner, allow- 
ing but half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit; after 
putting the fruit into the syrup let it scald (not boil hard) 
for 10 or 15 minutes, and then can and seal, A few 
of the cherry stones tied in a muslin bag and put into the 
syrup to scald with the fruit, impart a fine flavor ; they should 
not be put into the jars with the fruit. This method is excel- 
lent for use with all the small fruits, as strawberries, rasp- 
berries, and also plums. 

Canned Strawberries. — After the berries are pulled, let 
as many as can be put carefully into the preserving kettle at 



462 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

once, be placed on a platter. To each pound of fruit add 
three-fourths of a pound of sugar ; let them stand 2 or 3 
hours, till the juice is drawn from them ; pour it into the ket- 
tle and let it come to a boil, removing the scum which 
rises; then put in the berries very carefully. As soon as 
they come to a boil, put them into warm jars, and seal while 
boiling hot. 

Quince Preserves. — Pare, core, and quarter your fruit, 
then weigh it and allow an equal quantity of white sugar. 
Take the peelings and cores and put into a preserving kettle; 
cover them with water and boil for half an hour ; then strain 
through a hair sieve and put the juice back into the kettle 
and boil the quinces in it a little at a time until they are 
tender ; lift out as they are done with a drainer and lay on 
a dish ; if the liquid seems scarce, add more water. When 
all are done throw in the sugar and allow it to boil 10 min- 
utes before putting in the quinces ; let them boil until they 
change color, say 1^ hours, on a slow fire; while they are 
boiling, occasionally slip a silver spoon under them to see 
that they do not burn, but on no account stir them. Have 
two fresh lemons cut in thin slices, and when the fruit is 
being put in jars, lay a slice or two in each. 

Canned Tomatoes. — Wash your tomatoes, and cut out 
any places that are green or imperfect; then cut them up 
and put over to cook with a little salt ; boil them tUl per- 
fectly soft, then strain through a colander; turn them 
back to cook, and when they have come to boiling heat, 
poui- them into stone jugs t^one or two gallon jugs, as you 
prefer). They will keep a day or two in winter if all are 
not used at a time ; put the cork in, and have some canning 
cement hot and pour over the cork. The jug must, of course, 
be hot when the tomatoes are poured in. 



FBESERVING AND CANl^ING FRUITS. 463 

Artificial Honey. — Mix together 10 lbs. white sugar, 
2 lbs. clear bees' honey, 1 qt. hot water, half an ounce of 
cream tartar; when cool, flavor with 2 or 3 drops otto of roses 
and sprinkle in a handful of clear yellow honey-comb broken 
up. This will deceive the best judges, and is perfectly 
healthful. 

Grape Jam. — Take your grapes, separate the skin from 
the pulp, keeping them in separate dishes, put the. pulps into 
your preserving kettle with a tea-cup of water; when thor- 
oughly heated run them thorough a colander to separate the 
seeds; then put your skins with them and weigh; to each 
pound of fruit, put three-fourth of a pound of sugar; add 
merely water enough to keep from burning; cook slowly 
three-fourths of an hour. This is a delicious jam, and worth 
the trouble. 

Blackberry Jam. — To each pound of fruit add three- 
fourths of a pound of sugar; mash each separately; then 
put together and boil from one-half to three-fourths of an 
hour. 

Raspberry Jam. — To 5 or 6 pounds of fine red raspber- 
ries (not too ripe) add an equal quantity of the finest 
quality of white sugar. Mash the whole well in a preserv- 
ing kettle; add about 1 qt. of currant juice (a little less will 
do), and boil gently until it jellies upon a cold plate; then 
put into small jars; cover with brandied paper; and tie a 
thick white paper over them. Keep in a dark, dry, and 
cool place. 

Orange Marmalade. — Take 7 oranges and 6 lemons ; boil 
in water 2 or 3 hours ; throw away the water, and open the 
oranges and lemons, taking out the seeds and preserving all 
the pulp and juice possible; cut the rinds in small strips or 



464 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

chop them, but cutting in strips is better ; weigh it all when 
this is done ; then put 3 lbs. of sugar in 2 of the pulp, and 
boil slowly till clear. 

Siberian Crab Jelly. — Boil a peck of crab-apples for 2 
hours in as much water as will cover them, then put them 
into a jelly bag and allow to drain, (do not squeeze them); 
to each pint of syrup, put 1 lb. of loaf sugar, and boil for 
half an hour. Select the reddest crabs you can find, and 
the jelly will be a beautiful color. 

Chocolate Caramels. — 2 cups of brown sugar, 1 cup 
molasses, 1 cup chocolate grated fine, 1 cup boiled milk, 1 
table-spoonful flour, butter the size of a large English walnut ; 
let it boil slowly and pour on flat tins to cool; mark off 
while warm. 

The bubbling and loud hissing um, 
Throws up a steaming column ; and the cups 
That cheer, but not inebriate, wait on each ; 
So let us welcome peaceful evening in. 

— Cowper. 

Tea. — When the water in the tea-kettle begins to boil, 
have ready a tin tea-steeper; pour into the tea-steeper just 
a very little of the boiling water, and then put in tea, al- 
lowing one tea-spoonful of tea to each person. Pour over 
this boiling water until the steeper is a little more than half 
full ; cover tightly and let it stand where it will keep hot, 
but not to boil. Let the tea infuse for 10 or 15 minutes, 
and then pour into the tea urn, adding more boiling water, 
in the proportion of one cup of water for every tea-spoonful 



BEVERAGES. 465 

of dry tea which has been infused. Have boiling water 
in a water-pot, and weaken each cup of tea as desired. 
Do not use water that has boiled long. Spring water is 
best for tea, and filtered water next best. 

Tea a la Russe. — Pare and slice fresh, juicy lemons; lay 
a piece in the bottom of each cup, sprinkle with white sugar, 
and pour hot, strong tea over. Or the lemon may be sent 
around in slices with the peel on. No cream is used. 

Roasting Coffee. — This process should be carefully 
watched and superintended. The quality and flavor of the 
coffee depends largely upon the method of roasting. When 
the berry crackles and becomes crisp, it is sufficiently 
roasted. Just as soon as it is taken from the roaster, it 
should be placed in several thicknesses of flannel to preserve 
the oil and aroma. When cool, place it in an air-tight 
cannister. 

Cream Nectar. — 2| lbs. of white sugar, one-eighth lb. 
of tartaric acid, both dissolved in 1 qt. of hot water ; when 
cold, add the beaten whites of 3 eggs, stirring well ; bottle 
for use. Put 2 large spoonfuls of this syrup in a glass of 
cold water, and stir in it one-fourth of a spoonful of bicar- 
bonate of soda. Any flavor can be put in the syrup. An 
excellent drink for summer. 

Raspberry Acid. — Dissolve 5 oz. of tartaric acid in 2 
qts. of water; pour it upon 12 lbs. of red raspberries in a 
large bowl ; let it stand 24 hours ; strain it without pressing ; 
to 1 pt. of this liquor add 1| lbs. of white sugar; stir until 
dissolved. Bottle, but do not cook for several days, when it 
is ready for use. Two or three table-spoonfuls in a glass of 
ice water will make a delicious beverage. 

Raspberry Vinegar. — To 4 qts. red raspberries, put 

30 



466 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

enough vinegar to cover, and let them stand 24 hours; scald 
and strain; add 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pt. of juice; boil it 20 
minutes, and bottle; it is then ready to use and will keep 
for years. To one glass of water add a great spoonful. It 
is much relished by the sick. Very nice. 

Blackberry Syrup. — To 1 pt. of juice, put 1 lb. of white 
sugar, one-half oz. of powdered cinnamon, one-fourth oz. 
mace, and 2 tea-spoonfuls cloves; boil all together for 15 
minutes, then strain the syrup, and add to each pint a glass 
of French brandy. 

. Red Currant Wine. — For every gallon of water take 1 
gallon of currants off the stalks, bruise well and let them 
stand over night. Next morning mash them well with your 
hands and strain through a hair sieve. To every gallon of 
the liquor add 4 lbs. of sugar. Rinse the cask well with 
brandy, and strain the liquor again when putting in, by 
which you will see whether the sugar is dissolved. Lay the 
bung lightly on, and stop it up in 10 days. 





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T has been said that the social progress of a com- 
munity is in exact proportion to the number of 
its dinner parties ; and in all ages the friendship 
of nations, as well as of individuals, has been ce- 
mented, and enmities forgotten, in the allure- 
ments of dining. It is an undeniable fact that 
more enduring alliances have been struck by 
diplomatists across the dinner table than were 
ever agreed upon in ministerial cabinets. Talle- 
rand regarded the dinner table as the best place 
for the transaction of diplomatic business. And 
can any one doubt that much of the culture of the world, 
with all its elements of refined manners, intellectual progress, 
and taste for science, literature, and the fine arts, is largely 
dependent upon the social gatherings at the dinner tables of 
the metropolitan cities? 

The rules which regulate dinner giving and dining in 
America, have been adopted from both England and France, 

[467] 



468 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

as they have been found to fit our social conditions; and the 
dinner giver who attempts to be original is likely to fail, be- 
cause he disturbs the harmony which established customs 
insure. The path of safety here, as in all social matters, is 
the beaten track. 

The first consideration, when a dinner has been decided 
on, is a discreet selection of guests. The proper limit as to 
numbers will be decided by the good sense of the host and 
hostess, the size of the table and dining-room being impor- 
tant considerations, though the number of guests should not 
exceed twelve. Thirteen is an ominous number, and there 
are superstitious people who would not sit at the table when 
thirteen were present, from the belief that some fatality 
might soon happen to one of their number. 

The aim of the host and hostess should be to bring to- 
gether such people as are of equal intellectual attainments, 
and of like social standing. Guests are wanted who will 
affect each other pleasantly. They need not be friends, nor 
even acquaintances, but they must be congenial, and have 
common tastes and sympathies. Good talkers are invalu- 
able, and good listeners no less so. The test of the success 
of a dinner party is the manner in which the conversation 
is sustained at the table. A constant flow of talk and mer- 
riment is proof that the guests have been wisely chosen, 
while emban-assing halts and dead pauses in conversation 
denote that they are not in sympathy with one another. 

The invitations are issued in the name of the host and 
hostess from three to ten days in advance. They are sent 
hy messenger, and not by mail, only when the distance is 
too great to send a trusty servant. An invitation to a din- 
ner party requires a prompt answer, and if it is accepted 



DINNER INVITATION. 469 

the engagement must be sacredly kept, as the non-arrival of 
a guest means an empty chair at the table, a lady with- 
out an escort, or a gentleman without a lady. If in doubt, 
it is better to decline; but if an invitation has been ac- 
cepted, and an insurmountable obstacle intervenes, an ex- 
planation must be made at once, so that the vacant place in 
the little circle may be filled. 

The following is the form of the invitation: — 



jm. and J^l^. WUfmm ^mfon 
i^iwU tfie jifmMiU <yf JWi. an-4 JM&. <M>w<ii4 ^inc^di'^ 

uaiy^ 26, at &m^n o'c^oi^. 

SS Lafayette Avenue. 



The day of the week and the hour are written in full, 
but figures may be used for the day of the month. 

If the dinner is given in honor of some friend or 
stranger, a second card is inclosed in the envelope with the 
invitation on which is inscribed: — 



3^0 nwd 
of J^ew Vol^ (fit^. 



470 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

The following is a good form for an acceptance, which 
must be sent immediately: — 

J^. and J^lA. c^iv<i4d J^mc^i 

uccefU wit^ ftUoAuU tfic mvitaHon of J^i. and JWl^. 

WiMiam <^i^ton, to dinnci, at {ycwn o'cfoc^, 

on W^dfue6da^, Januuii^ 26. 

If the invitation cannot be accepted, the persons invited 
send a reply immediately with regrets, and state reasons of 
their inability to accept, which may be either on account of 
sickness in the family, intended absence, or some previous 
encjagement. 

Guests may arrive any time during the half hour be- 
fore the time appointed for dinner. This interval gives 
time for introductions and greetings. To delay beyond the 
appointed hour is unpardonable rudeness. Fifteen minutes 
is the longest time a hostess is required to wait for a tardy 
comer. 

She is an excellent hostess who can make conversation 
general before dinner. " To this end," says one writer, 
"have some novelty at hand, either in the shape of a per- 
sonage whom every guest wants to meet, or a new picture, 
bric-a-brac, a rare plant, the latest spiciest news to tell, or 
a pretty girl to bring forward." " Whatever the attraction, 
present it early, to prevent monotoney, and if the half or 
quarter hour before the guests assemble around the table can 
be so used as to bring them upon easy terms with one an- 
other, the success of the dinner, in a social way, is more than 
half established." 



ENTERTAINMENT AT TABLE. 471 

Amone: her other duties, the hostess has taken into con- 
si deration the arrangement of her guests at the table, with 
a view of having them paired off to their mutual advantage 
and to the pleasure of all concerned, so that when dinner is 
announced the host and hostess quietly intimate to the dif- 
ferent gentlemen whom they are to escort to the table. ' ' Mr. 
Power, will you be so kind as to escort Miss Strong to din- 
ner? Mr. Sharp, please look after the interests of Mrs. 
Keene, and Mr. Keene, you may do the agreeable to Mrs. 
Sharp, that will be a keen sharp trade all around. Mr. 
Wright, suppose you finish telling that little story to Miss 
Straight at the table," and .so on. If the dinner is given in 
honor of some lady guest, the host offers her his arm and 
S'oes out first, and the hostess last. On the other hand, if 
the honored guest be a gentleman, he escorts the hostess, and 
they lead the way, and the host follows the company. The 
hostess having already arranged the places at the table for 
each guest, and placed a card with the name written upon it, 
on each of the plates, the guests have no difficulty in 
finding their respective seats at table. This method is now 
used at private dinners, having long been the custom at 
public dinners. 

The gentleman offers his right arm to the lady he escorts 
to dinner, and seats her on his left hand at the table. On 
reaching their places, he draws out the chair for her, and 
allows her to be seated before he seats himself. The honored 
guest, if a lady, is seated at the right of the host ; if a gen- 
tleman, at the right of the hostess. It becomes the duty of 
each gentleman to see that the lady he escorts to the table 
is well provided for, and where food is passed around from 
guest to guest, to allow her to be helped before he helps 
himself. 



472 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

Table decorations should not be used to a great extent, 
but should be choice, when used at all. Flowers should be 
fine but few, for to some people the odor of flowers does not 
mingle pleasantly with that of the food before them. 

It must not be supposed that dinners must be costly and 
elaborate to be enjoyable, nor will gu&sts expect that a din- 
ner will be other than commensurate with the circumstances 
of the host and hostess. Costly dinners are not necessarily 
good dinners, while the surroundings may be so agreeable 
and cheerful, the table so tastefully spread, the welcome so 
frank, and the conversation so bright that a very simple 
dinner is indeed charming, and affords the utmost pleasure 
to hostess, host, and guests alike. 

No dinner should be considered complete without at 
least three courses, which may be classed as: First, soups; 
second, meats; and third, dessert of pastry or puddings. 
This may be easily doubled up, having for the first course, 
a small dish of raw oysters, or clams ; second, soup or boiled 
fish; third, meats; fourth, salads; fifth, pastry and pud- 
dings; sixth, ices, fruits, nuts, and raisins, with coffee. Be- 
fore the dining-room is opened, half a dozen raw oysters are 
placed in a small dLsh before each plate. If the season is 
warm, they may be placed on cracked ice, with a quarter 
of a lemon to each plate. When oysters are not in season, 
small clams may be substituted, in which case red pepper 
should be provided. These may be eaten after the party 
have seated themselves for dinner. A dish of soup or of 
boiled fish, or both, may then be served. The dishes in 
which these are served being removed, the meats may be 
served, together with the vegetables and substantials, and 
they are either roast beef, mutton, or turkey. These may 



FRENCH AND RUSSIAN CUSTOMS. 473 

be followed by boiled meats. As a rule, the roast precedes 
the boiled, next come the salads and entrees, and then fol- 
low the pastry or puddings, and finally, ices, fruits, nuts, 
raisins, candy, and coffee. If it should be a game dinner, the 
game may take the place of the meats in the third course. 
This bill of fare may be varied according to inclination or 
circumstances. Should the host and hostess desire to in- 
clude wines in their bill of fare, it would be well to remem- 
ber that Sauterne, or any light white wines should come 
with the oysters before soup, Sherry after soup, and that 
Champagne comes with the roast. If wine is brought on 
for a dessert, champagne is preferable. 

There are two methods of serving a dinner, the French 
and Russian. The former is the ordinary way, the various 
dishes being set on the table to be carved and served by the 
host and hostess, and passed to the guests, or handed to 
them by a servant. The Russian method, which is often 
adopted for formal dinners, is for waiters to serve each 
guest separately, all the carving, etc., being done before the 
food is brought to the table. By this method more servants 
are required, and it gives a better opportunity for the dec- 
oration of the table, if that is desirable. The English cus- 
tom is to set all the dishes of each course on the table at 
once, and then those that are to be carved are removed to 
a side table and carved by a skillful servant. The advan- 
tao-es of the Russian custom is that it leaves host and 
hostess almost as free as the guests to guide and take part in 
the conversation. 

As the main object of giving a dinner party is enjoy- 
ment and pleasure for all concerned, it is incumbent upon 
all to be in their happiest mood, and for each to do his or 



474 OUIi HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

her part in rendering the occasion as dehghtful as possible. 
Lively and sprightly conversation, and cheerful ways are 
especially desirable, and when each endeavors to make all 
others happy about him, the sociable feature of the dinner 
is not likely to prove a failure. Ill-nature should never be 
brought to a dinner table, and any display of it is a mark 
of ill-breeding. It is not in good taste for two persons to 
monopolize the conversation by a discussion in which few 
or none of the other guests are interested. The conversa- 
tion should be of a nature to be of interest to all, or 
the great majority, so that each may enter into its spirit. 
If the dinner party is a large one you may converse with 
those near you in a low tone of voice. The hostess should 
endeavor to put all her guests at their ease, paying every 
attention to the wants of all, so far as possible. She needs 
self-possession and tact so that she may anticipate every 
want. It is the duty of the host to aid her as far as pos- 
sible, and to endeavor to encourage the timid, draw out the 
silent, and direct the conversation, while others sustain it. 

The table-cloth must be white and spotless, and under 
it should be spread a thick baize or other cloth to prevent 
the noise of dishes. Napkins should be of fine texture, but 
firm and folded square. The dishes should be free from 
nicks and scrupulously clean. Flowers, when not used in 
great profusion, are the most tasteful ornaments for the 
table. Fruit, tastefully arranged, may also be used to as- 
sist in the table decoration. 

When the dinner is served up in the ordinary way the 
plates and the dishes to be served are placed before the host 
or hostess. When each dish is served into the plate, it is 
placed upon the waiter's small salver, who sets it before the 



MANNERS AT TEE TABLE. 



uo 



guest. If a second dish is served in the same course, the 
waiter presents the dish, having first put into it a spoon, to 
the left of the guest, who helps himself. As soon as any 
one has finished his plate, it is removed, without waiting for 
the others to finish. When all the plates are removed, the 
next course is brought on. The crumb-brush is not used 
until just before the dessert, and after that is served, the 
waiter whose services are no longer needed, leaves the room. 
In serving, the most lionored guest, that is the lady at the 
right of the host, should be first helped. 

At a dinner party, great care should be taken that the 
food be served neatly ; the plates should not be helped too 
abundantly or the food flooded with gravies, which many 
dislike. To some people it is disagreeable to have a plate 
bedaubed with gravy or scattered food. Food is passed to 
a guest from the left, but water is poured at the right of a 
guest. Each guest should have ample space at the table so 
that he may eat without crowding, or being crowded by, 
his neighbor. Consequently it is important for the success 
of the dinner that no more be invited than can be comforta- 
bly accommodated. 

"While individual manners at the table require a kind 
consideration for the rights and feelings of others which 
marks the true gentleman, there are details of behavior 
which deserve mention. 

Raw oysters must be eaten with a fork. Soup should 
be sipped from the side of the ispoon and without noLse. A 



476 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

soup plate should never be tilted for the last spoonful, and 
it should not be called for a second time. Fish should be 
eaten either with the fork, or a fish-knife. Salads, cheese, 
pastry, and everything that can be cut or broken without 
a knife should be eaten with a fork. A knife should never 
be put into the mouth during a meal. Bread should be 
broken, never cut at the table. Turkey, chicken, and game 
are cut up, never picked with the fingei"S, unless in the in- 
dulgence of a family dinner, when the bone may be held in 
one hand and picked. Salt must be taken on the side of the 
plate and never upon the table-cloth. The fork conveys 
food to the mouth and may be used in either hand, as most 
convenient. Food that cannot be handled with a fork 
should be eaten with a spoon. To help yourself to butter 
or any food from a common dish, with your own knife or 
fork, is a gross offense. It is exceedingly impolite to pick 
the teeth at the table, or in the presence of ladies after a 
meal. If it is necessary to use a tooth-pick at the table, it 
is done while the napkin is held over the mouth. Avoid 
making any sound with the mouth while eating or chew- 
ing food. Eat slowly, both for the sake of health and good 
manners, and do not take so large a mouthful that you find 
it difficult or impossible to speak. Do not lean the enx)ws 
or lay the hands on the table, or play with knives and forks 
or glasses, or lounge in, or tilt back, your chair, or take a 
lounging attitude at the table. When you have finished a 
course, lay your knife and fork side by side on the plate, 
which is the signal for their removal. Never dip bread 
into gravy or preserves. 

Refuse fish if you wish, but do not call for it a second 
time. When soup is passed as the first course, never I'efuse 



FISH AND SOUP ETIQUETTE. 477 

it, but you need not partake of it unless you wish to. Never 
apologize to a waiter for asking him for anything ; it is his 
business to serve. Never rebuke a waiter, as that is the 
business of the host. When dishes are passed by one guest 
to another, help yourself before offeiing it to the next, as it 
makes confusion and delay to do otherwise. Never use the 
napkin to wipe your face or nose. It is for the lips only. 
Do not scrape your plate, or tilt it up to get the last drop, 
or wipe it with a piece of bread. Pudding may be eaten 
with a fork or spoon as is most convenient. Ices require 
a spoon. 

It is rude to monopolize the conversation at the table, or 
to talk or laugh loud. Boisterous conduct is particularly 
ill-mannered at the table. If a special delicacy has been pre- 
pared by the hostess for the dinner, which a guest does not 
care for, or which his health will not permit him to eat, he 
may take a portion of it on his plate and eat as much or as 
little of it as he pleases. To refuse it might be to injure the 
feelings of your hostess. It is not regarded in good taste to 
say much about the food, either in praise or disparagement. 
If one is obliged to leave the table before a meal is finished, 
he should ask the hostess to excuse him. Bread should be 
held on the plate or near the table, while it is buttered, and 
it should be broken, and not bitten mto. The general rule 
is that nothing should be bitten at the table. 

One should not sit too near the table, nor too far from it, 
nor drum with his fingers, nor make diagrams with his 
knife and fork, nor twirl his goblet, nor play with his salt- 
cellar, nor cough, sneeze, or smack his lips, nor put his 
elbows on the table, nor fidget in his chan, nor blow in his 
soup to cool it, nor soak up gravy with his bread. If a 



478 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

plate is handed you at table, keep it, unless you are re- 
quested to pass it to another. The host knows whom he 
wishes to serve first. As soon as you receive your plate, 
you are at liberty to begin eating without waiting until all 
others are served, as is often done. An apple may be held 
in the hand while paring, and eaten in small slices cut from 
the whole fruit, carrying each slice to the mouth on the 
point of a fruit knife. Never bite into an apple at the 
table. 

In cases where a person is in doubt just what to do, or 
how to act at table, it would be well to conform to the usage 
of those around him, for it is almost impossible to give rules 
or suggest hints to apply to all cases and all circumstances 
into which a person may be thrown. 

We have presented some rules regarding the preparation 
and serving of a formal dinner. In every well-regu- 
lated family the table should be prepared daily with the 
same care, if not so elaborate, as for such an occasion. 
This is a good way to insure success for hostess and servants 
when a dinner party does come off, while it gives the mis- 
tress and servants the luxury of becoming used to a nice 
style, so that it is just as easy as common ways, and no sud- 
den visitor can put them out. In the family it should be 
observed as a rule to meet together at all meals of the day 
around one common table where the same rules of etiquette 
should be as rigidly enforced as at the table of a stranger. 
It is only by the constant practice of the rules of good soci- 
ety at home that good manners become easy when any of 
them are invited out to meet strangers. 



TABLE TALK. • 479 

At the breakfast table, a greater amount of freedom is 
allowable than at the other meals of the day. Some mem- 
bers of the family require to be off at an early hour. Thus 
all may not be able to meet together, and each may rise 
and leave the table when business or pleasure dictate. The 
mistress serves the coffee, and the master of the house the 
meats, potatoes, etc. Whenever practicable, it is well to 
serve fruits at breakfast, and they should be served first, 
followed by oat-meal, or wheaten grits, then the meats and 
vegetables, with toast, hot cakes, and coffee. 

The last meal of the day, supper or " tea," is the sim- 
plest of the three, and meats are mostly served cold, while 
the nicest delicacies of cookery are served up. 

In some sense, housekeeping is making the most of life, 
bringing taste and variety into it, compassing difficult ends 
with invention. Those who disdain it lower themselves. 
Never think that any thing is too good for you or yours 
that you can obtain. Everywhere there are people living 
in small common ways, because they are absolutely afraid 
of the expense or the notice which a pleasanter life would 
bring. Half the niceties of life involve only care to secure 
them, without a dollar of expense. Good manners cost 
nothing, good taste is a saving, and good housekeeping act- 
ually makes money. People grow refined first in their eat- 
ing. How is it that the most brilliant and clever nation in 
the world has also the best cooking? Put these things to- 
gether, and do your best according to their result. 

We present the following Bills of Fare for various meals, 
which may be found of value to our readers : — 



480 OUM HOMES AND THEIR ADOBNMENTS. 




<3 t=^ ^-^- 



l*)M^ yiLLS OF liEE. ^i-^ 



-^=3{^ - i^-^^)^~-& 



Oatmeal. Buttered Toast. Beefsteak. 

Potatoes. Hominy. 

Stewed Apples. Buckwheat Cakes. Sirup. 

Coffee. Chocolate. 



Fruits in Season. Broiled Fish. Potatoes. 

Home Polls. Beefsteak. 

Egg Omelet. Graham Gems. Celery and Lettuce. 

Fried Oysters. Cream Nectar. 

Coffee. Ices. 



BILLS OF FARE. 481 



Fmi 

Soup with Vegetables. Roast Meats. Apple Sauce. 

Potatoes. Turnips. 

Cabbage. Tomatoes. Pudding. 

Pie. Fruits. 

Cheese. Coffee. Ices. 



Raw Oysters. Soup with Vegetables. Boiled White Fish. 

Roast Turkey with Cranberry Sauce. 

Mashed Irish Potatoes. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
Croquettes of Rice. 



Cream Custard. Lemon Pie. Cocoanut Pie. 

Fruits. Nuts. Coffee. Ices. 



Tea, Coffee, or Chocolate. Escalloped or Fried Oysters. 

Muffins. Sliced Turkey and Ham. Cold Biscuits. 

Sardines and Sliced Lemons. Thin Slices of Bread Rolled, 

Sliced Pressed Meats. Cake in Variety. 

31 



482 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 

MmPWWM PflQ, I. 

Cold Roast Turkey or Chicken. Ham Croquettes. 

Fricasseed Oysters. Charlotte Russe. 

Whipped Cream. Chocolate Cake. Cocoanut Cake. 

Mixed Cakes. Fruit in Season. 

Ices. Coffee and Chocolate, 



Cold Roast Fowl. Oyster Patties. Cold Boiled Ham. 

Raw Oysters. Ham Sandwiches. 

Jelly. Ice-Cream. Cakas. 

Assorted Fruits. Chocolate. Coffee. 



Sunday. — Roast Beef, Potatoes, and Greens. Dessert: 
Pudding- or Pie, Cheese. 

Monday. — Hashed Beef, Potatoes, and Bread Pudding. 

Tuesday. — Broiled Beef, Vegetables, Apple Pudding. 

Wednesday. — Boiled Pork, Beans, Potatoes, Greens, 
and Pie or Rice Pudding. 

Thursday. — Roast or Broiled Fowl, Cabbage, Potatoes, 
Lemon Pie, Cheese. 

Friday. — Fish, Potato Croquettes, Escalloped Toma- 
toes, Pudding. 

Saturday. — A la mode Beef, Potatoes, Vegetables, Suet 
Pudding, Mince Pie, and Cheese. 



TO 



q- 



iS^- 



I OuK Homes im Their AdornmentSo 



d- 



^s^ 



[4831 




[4841 




I 


'AGE. 


PAGK. 


Adornments, Simple, 


130 


Barn, Farm and Carriage, 


159 


Advantages of Storj--and-a-half over 


Barrel Filter, The Cheap, Durable, 




One-Story House, 


120 


and Effective, 


73 


An Excellent Floor Plan, 


126 


Bass-Wood, How to Use, 


44 


Aniline Djes, 


369 


Bath Tub, 


84 


ANTIQUE FURNITURE— 




Bay-Window, 


150 


Cabinets, 


279 


Beads for Fancy Needle-Work, 


236 


Hall Benches, 


280 


Beautifying Walla and Ceilings, 


215 


Odds and Ends, 


279 


Bed-Rooms, Arrangement of. 


31 


" Tlie Chambered Nautilus," 


2S1 


Bed-Rooms, The, 


221 


Appearance Subject to Arrangement, 


127 


Bed-Rooms, How to Make them Cheer 




Appl.ving Paints, 


170 


ful, Comfortable, and Healthful, 


204 


APPLIQUE OR CUT-WORK- 




Bedstead and Drapery, (with illus.) 


297 


Inlaid, 


241 


Bedstead and Wardrobe Combined, 


292 


On laid, 


241 


Benclics for the Hall, 


280 


Listructions in. 


241 


Best Filter, The, 


72 


Piano Scarf, 


255 


Best Time to Paint, 


167 


Aquariun)s To Grow Water-Lilies in. 


325 


Best Time to Plant, 


202 


Arasene Needle-Work 


236 


Best Woods, The, and How to Use 




Arbor, To Construct, 


147 


Them, 


49 


Attracti\ e Buildings, 


37 


Better Plan for Floors, A, 


46 


Attracti\e Cottage Home, 


111 


Black-Walnut, 


53 


Autumn Leaves, To Preserve, 


380 


Blackboards, To Make, 


391 






Blanlset Stitch Needle-Work, 


237 


Back Plastering, 


40 


Bleaching, Recipes for. 


371 


Bamboo Screens, 


268 


Bleaching Powder, 


372 


Banner Screen, Design for. 


239 


Bleaching Ivory, 


27S 



[485] 



486 



GENERAL INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Blinds and Shutters, 82 

Blue Blankets, A Use for Old, 260 

Bolton Sheeting, 235 

Brick and Stone Houses, their Cost, 57 
Brick-Work, 163 

Bronze for Metals, 387 

Brushes, Various, 172 

BUILDING DESIGNS— 

A Simple Cottage, (5 Cuts) 
Alterations in Cottage, (2 Cuts) 
Neat Story-and-a-half House, (3 

Cuts) 
Story-and-a-half House, (2 Cuts) 
Superior Story-and-a-half House, 

(2 Cuts) 
Rural Cottage Home, (2 Cuts) 
Modern Gothic-Boofed House, (1 

Cut) 
Solid Gothic House, (3 Cuts) 
Farm Residence and Barn, (2 Cuts) 135 
Elegant Brick Residence, (2 Cuts) 138 
Fine Substantial Villa, (1 Cut) 142 

Buildings of Wood, their Economy, 39 

Buildings, Secret of Attractive, 37 



105 
111 



115 
121 



125 
128 



130 
133 



Cabinets, 
Cabinets, Hanging, 

calcimine- 
How to Make, 

Shade of Color, 

How to Put it on, 
Canton Flannel, 
Care of Trees, and Success in 

Culture, 
CARPETS— 

Ingrain, 

Silk Rag, 

Prayer, 
Carpenter-Work, 
Carriage Barn, Farm and, (ill.) 
Carriage Painting, 
CARVING in wood— 

General Remarks, 

The Use of Tools, 

Tools, (6 illustrations) 



279, 283 
292 

230 
231 
231 
235 
their 



261 
261 
262 

77 
159 
389 

351 

352 
353 



A Design for, 

Instructions in the Art, 

Carving a Wall Pocket, 

Carved Fret-Work, 

Finishing, 
Casing of Stairs, 
Ceilings and Walls, 
Ceilings, Decoration of, 
CELLARS— 

Excavations for. 

How to Remedy Wet and Damp, 
Cellar- Way and Piers, 

cements- 
How to Use, 

Causes of Failure in Using, 

For Ivory, 

" Jet, 

" Lamps, 

" Pots and Pans, 

" Woo<l, 

" Leather, 

" Marble, 

" China, 

" Crack in Wood, 

Chinese, 

Fire-Proof and Water-Proof, 

India Rubber, 

Jewelers', 

London, 

Stone Masons', 

How to Test, 

Recipes for, 
Cess-Pool Vaults, 
Chairs, 
Cheap but Attractive Houses in the 

Hot Season, 
Chimneys and Flues, 
Chimneys, How to Build after the 

House is Complete, 
Choice of Papers, 
Choice of Wall-Papers, Hints on, 
Cistern Filters, 

Cisterns, How to Make Good Ones, 
CLAPBOARDING, 

To Measure, 



PAGE. 
353 



354 
357 
360 
362 
51 
215 
223 

61 

75 
65 

40S 

404 
404 
404 
405 
405 
4C6 
406 
406 
406 
407 
407 
407 
404 
408 
405 
407' 

71 
403 

74 
282 

143 



217 
219 
73 
70 
43 
166 



GENERAL INDEX. 



487 





PAGE. 


PAOS. 


Classification of Flowers, 


306 


Cornices and Gables, 


88 


CLEANING FABRICS— 




Cottage, A Simple, (with illus.) 


108 


General Directions, 


398 


Cottage, A Summer, To Build, 


143 


Best Substances for, 


399 


Cottage Home, A Rural, (with ill.) 


128 


Iron Rust and Grease. 


399 


Cottage Home, An Attractive, for Peo- 




Ink Stains, 


399, 400 


ple of Small Means, 


HI 


Grease from Cloth (2 Recipes) 


399 


Counterpanes, Silk, 


245 


Acids on Clothes, 


400 


Counterfeit Silver, To Detect, 


416 


Fruit Stains, 


400 


Covering and Decorating Screens, 


269 


Lace, 


400 


Cooking Recipes, 


417 


Furs, 


401 


Crash, 


263 


To Renovate Silk, 


401 


Crestings and Finials, 


81 


Ostrich Feathers, 


402 


Crewel Work, 


236 


Carpets, 


402 


Crystallizing Grass, 


381 


Soap for, 


402 


Culture of Flowers, The, 


303 


Fluid forj 


403 


CURTAINS AND HANGINGS— 




CLEANING AND SCOUBING— 




Various, for Recesses and Win- 




Brass and Copper, 


395 


dows, 


259 


Engravings, 


395 


How to Make Them, 


260 


Dresses, 


398 


Chinese Embroidery, 


260 


Gilt Frames, 


398 


Of Waste Material, 


261 


Floors, 


397 


Of Ingrain Carpeting, 


261 


Hats, 


395 


The Dove Design, 


262 


House Paint, 


397 


Prices of Material, 


263 


Jewelry, 


395 


Scarfs and Book-Case Curtains, 


264 


Marble, 


394 






Oil-Pain tings. 


394 


Dado, The, 


224 


Pearls, 


394 


Damp Walls, Remedy for, 


391 


Piate and Plated Ware, 


394, 395 


Danger from Stagnant Pools, 


99 


Harness, 


411 


Darkening Glass, 


391 


Clothes-Horse, Queer Use for an Old, 277 


Darned Work Table Scarf, 


257 


COLORS— 




DECORATIONS, INTERIOR- 




In Painting, 


168 


General Considerations, 


213 


In Graining, 


176 


Aim and Extent, 


214 


The Mixing of. 


169 


How to Beautify the Walls ant 




For Fences, 


210 


Ceilings, 


215 


Coloring Straw Hats, 


370 


Wall-Papers, 


215 


Combing Ingrain Worlc, 


176 


How to Select the Best, 


216 


Comparative Cost of Building, 


58 


Hints on the Choice of Papers, 


219 


Common Errors to be A\oided in 


Re- 


Papers for Parlor or Drawing 




gard to House and Grounds, 


183 


Room, 


220 


Comfort in Home, 


103 


For the Library, 


221 


Concreting, 


75 


For Bed-Rooms, 


221 


Contracting for Builder's Work, 


28 


For Dining-Room, 


222 


Constructing a Rustic House, 


146 


Treatment of Ceilings, 


223 



488 



GENERAL INDEX. 



PAGE. 

The Dado, 224 

Friezes, (3 illustrations) 225 

Deodorizer, The Best, 378 

Descriptions and Specifications, 61, 70, 76 
Description of Material for Needle- 
Work, 235 
Decorating Screens, 269 
DESIGNS— 

I, A Simple Cottage with Succes- 

sive Enlargements, (5 illus.) 105 

II, Attractive Cottage Home for 

People with Small Means, (2 
illus.) Ill 

III, A Neat Story-and-a-half 
House at Moderate Cost, (3 
illustrations) 115 

IV, Storyrand-a-half House, (2 il- 
lustrations) 121 

V, Superior Story-and-a-half 
House, (2 illustrations) 125 

VI, A Rural Cottage Home,(2 illus.) 128 

VII, Modern Gothic-Roofed Story- 
and-a-half House, (with illus.) 130 

VIII, A Solid Gothic House, (3 ill. ) 133 

IX, Extensive Farm Residence and 
Barn, (2 illustrations) 135 

X, Elegant Brick Residence, (2 ill.) 138 

XI, Fine Suburban Villa, (with ill.) 142 
DINING-ROOM, The, 222, 293 

Its Character and Furnishing, 293 

Directions for Building, 51 

Disinfectants for Sick-Rooms, 377 

Distance of House from Road, 1S8 

Doors and Windows, 81 

Dove Portiere, The, 262 

Doyley in Tatting, (cut,) 246 

Drains, 163 

Drainage, How to Secure Good, 98 

Drapery for Bedstead, 297 

For Toilet-Stand, 299 

Drawn Work, 241 

Dressing Bureau, 296 

Driers and Oils, 169 

Durable Floors, 45 
DYEING AND BLEACHING— 



PAGE. 

General Remarks, 383 

Djeing Cotton, 364 
Mordants, 364, 370 
Recipes and Treatment for all 

Leading Colors, 364 
Dyeing Woolens in all the Prevail- 
ing Colors, 367 
Aniline Dyes, 369 
Coloring Straw Hats, 370 
Dyeing Feathers, 370 
To Bleach Sponge, 371 
To Whiten Lace, 371 
Bleaching Straw Goods, 371 

Easy Method of Laying out Drives, 198 

EBONIZED Wootl, How to Make, 267 

Screens, To Make the Frames of, 267 

Elegant Brick Residence, 138 

Elegant Effect at Small Cost in Hang- 
ings, 234 

EMBROIDERY— 

Frames, 241 

Border Patterns, (2 illustrations,) 242 
Embroidered Pincushion, (with 

Ulustration,) 242 

Silk Counterpanes, (2 illustrations) 24-i 
Silks, 236 

Tidy on Linen Crash, 247 

Screens, 272 

Elegant Designs, 249 

A Pretty Work-Apron, 250 

Hair Receiver, 251 

Silk Plush for Mirrors, 252 

Splasher, New Style, 252 

News Rack in Bead Work, 253 

Bead Vv'ork Table-Cover, 254 

ENCAUSTIC TILES— 

Their Durability, 282 

Ho\\- to Use them, 283 

Suitable for Pavements, Mantels, 

Cabinets, Etc., 283 

Their Cost, and How to Obtain 
Them, 284 

Errors of Common Occurrence in Re- 
gard to House and Grounds, 183 



GENERAL INDEX. 



489 



PAGE. 


P 


AGK. 


Estimating Work and Materials, 


165 


Bulbs— 




Excavations for Cellar, 


61 


Dahlia, 313 


,318 


Excellent Farm and Carriage Barn, 


159 


Gladiolus, 


313 


Exposure or Location, 


186 


Calla, 


313 


Exposure of a House, 


99 


Tuberose, 


311 


Extensive Farm Residence and Barn, 




Cyclamen, 


312 


(with illustration) 


135 


Lily, 


312 


Extent of Decoration, 


214 


Bleeding Heart, 
Climbers— 


S13 


Fan Screens, 


275 


Clematis, 


314 


Farm and Carriage Barn Combined, 


159 


Cypress-Vine, 


314 


Farm Residence and Barn, (illus.) 


135 


Gourds, 


314 


Feather Stitch in Needle-Work, 


237 


Ipomea, 


315 


Feathers, To Dye Various Colors, 


370 


Maurandya, 


315 


Fences, (with illustrations) 


206 


Smilax, 


315 


FILTER, A Valuable Test, 


72 


Annuals and Perennia1i8— 




Another Plan, 


73 


Aster, 


316 


The Barrel, 


73 


Begonia, 


316 


A Cheap, 


403 


Camellia, 


316 


Filtering, 


72 


Calceolaria, 


317 


Finials and Castings, 


81 


Carnation, 


317 


Finishing Coat — Painting, 


171 


Candytuft, 


317 


Finishing in Oil and Shellac, 


174 


Cln-ysanthemum, 


SIS 


Finishing Inside— Wood-Work, 


82 


Fuchsia, 


318 


Fire-Proof Wooden Buildings, 


41 


Heliotrope, 


319 


Fire-Proofing Shingle Roofs, 


390 


Mignonette, 


319 


Fire-Proof Paint for Wood, 


391 


Oleander, 


319 


Flax Cloth, 


235 


Pansy, 


320 


FLOORS, Durable, 


45 


Geranium, 


320 


A Better Plan for, 


46 


Ferns, 


321 


An Excellent Plan for, (with illusO 


126 


Phlox Drummondil, 


321 


Flooring, To Measure, 


166 


Snapdragon, 


321 


FLOWERS— 




Violet, 


322 


Their Culture, 


303 


Zinnia, 


322 


How to Have Abundance of, 


304 


Chinese Primrose, 


322 


How to Ha\e them all Winter, 


328 


Roses, 


323 


Useful Suggestions on Cultivation of 301 


Petunia, 


323 


Classification of. 


306 


Water-Lily, 


324 


How to Construct the Beds, 


310 


Water-Lily, Cultivation of in llibs 


324 


List of Bulbs, 


311 


Water-Lily for Aquariums, 


325 


Climbers, 


314 


Ice-Plant, 


325 


Annuals and Perennials, 


316 


Balsam, 


325 


Varieties Suitable for all Purposes 


316 


Ageratum, 


326 


Window Gardening, (with illus ) 


327 


Abutilon, 


326 


The Soil, 


305 


Flues and Chimneys, 


66 



400 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Formation of Lawns, 
Foundations, 
Foundation of Boulders, 
French Polish, 
FRET SAWING - 

An Embellishment in Window Gar- 
dening, (witli illustration) 

Its Oris^in, 

Sand-Papering, 

Materials Suitable for Use, 

A JIanual of, 

Practical Lessons in, (with illus's) 

Tlie Tools and their Uses, 339, ; 

Finishing the Work, 

Working in Metal, Ivor}-, Etc., 

Saws, Lathes, Prices, Etc., 

Silhouettes, 
Friendship Cushion, 
Furnaces and Grates, 
Furnaces for Heating, 
FURNITUPtE DESIGNS— 

Hat Rack with Mirror, 

Hat and Umbrella Rack, 

Easy Chair, 

Library Chair, 

Lounge, 

Hassock, 

Bed-Room Set, 

Wardrobe Bedstead, 

Bed with Drapery, 

Toilet-Stand with Drapery, 
Furniture Varnish, 
Furniture Polish, 

GARDEN, The— 

Best Time for Planting Trees, 
Drives and Walks, 
Errors to be Avoided, 
Excellent Trees to Plant, 
Exposure or Location, 
Fences, Various Styles of. 
Formation of Lawns, 
General Rules, 
Grading and Terracing, 
How to Begin, 



IGE. 




HAGE. 


190 


How to Select Trees, 


205 


63 


How to Ornament Fences, 


209 


64 


Methods of Making Walks, 


198 


3S7 


Permanent Lawn, 


191 


335 


Planting Trees, 


202 




Roads and Walks, 


18& 


330 


Style of Gardening, 


186 


335 


Special Features, 


193 


345 


Time for Removing Trees, 


203 


337 


Terraces, 


189 


339 


Varieties of Shrubs, Trees, an 


d 


340 


Flowers, 


194 


352 


General Considerations, 


25 


342 


Glazing, 


88 


346 


Good Drainage, How to Secure, 


97 


349 


GRAINING- 


175 


345 


The Tools for, 


175 


279 


The Ground for, 


175 


91 


Ash, 


177 


92 


Old Oak, 


177 




Bird's-Eje Maple, 


177 


2S6 


Mahogany, 


178 


2S7 


Grates and Furnaces, 


91 


289 


Grass, to Crystallize, 


381 


290 


Ground Glass Windows, To Imitate, 


381 


291 






292 


HAIR— 




295 


To Beautify the, 


333 


296 


Gloss, 


382 


297 


Oil, 


382 


299 


Wash, 


382 


3S5 


Lotion, 


382 


386 


Brushes, To Clean, 


383 




Hall Benches, 


280 




Hall, The, 


285 


202 


HANGINGS FOR DOORS, HALLS, 


AND 


197 


windows- 




183 


How to Make them, 


259 


205 


Elegant Effect at Small Cost, 


260 


186 


Old Blue Blanket, 


260 


206 


Portiere of Chinese Embroidery 


260 


190 


Silk liag Carpet, 


261 


183 


Ingrain Carpet, 


261 


189 


The Dove Portiere, 


262 


184 


Velveteen, 


262 



GENERAL INDEX. 



491 





PAGE. 


Smj-rna Blankets, 


262 


Prayer Carpets, 


262 


Curtains, 


263 


Prices of Materials, 


263 



Scarfs and Book-Case Curtains, 204 

Harmony in Decorations, 214 
HARNESS— 

To Clean, 411 

To Black, 412 

Composition, 412 

Hassoclcs, Embroidered Covers for, 24S 

Hassock, A Serviceable, (cut) 292 

Health, Hints on, 377 

Hearths and Pa\ements, 2S3 

Hearth Rug's and Carpets, 2S9 
HOME— 

Attractive Cottage, For People of 

Small Means, (with illus.) Ill 

A Rural Cottage, (with illus. ) 128 
Plan of a, that Combines Conven- 
ience and Beauty, (with illus.) 129 

Decoration of, 3S0 

Home-Made Mantels, 290 
HOUSE, The— 

How to Plan a, 30 

How to Proceed, 30 

Kinds of Lumber to Use, 33 

Renting and Purchasing, 27 

Painting, 34, 167 

Contracting the Work, 28, 32 

Alterations and Additions to, 107, 149 

Appearance of, 36 

Brick and Stone, their Cost, 57 

Stone Trimmings for Brick, CO 

Hardware, 88 

Heating and Ventilation, 91 

Measuring of Work, Labor, and 

■ Material, 165 

Style of Building, ISS 

Distance from Road, ISS 

Hall, The, 285 

Suggestions on Furnishing, 285 

Flooring for, 2SS 

Heating Furnaces, 92 
How to Build a House and Make 



I'AGR. 

Additions to It, 107 
How to Pre\ent Brick Walls from 

Sweating, 60 

ICE-HOUSE— 

To Construct, 157 
Combined with Preservatory (with 

ill.) 158 

Meal Houses, 25 

Impure Air, How to Remove It, 04 

Im1;s, Recipes for, 413 

Inlaid Applique Work, 241 

Ingrain Carpet, 261 

Instructions in Needle-Work, 241 

Interlaying in ScroU-Work, 343 

Japanese Quilt, 273, 279 

KALCIMINE (Calcimine), 230 

Blue, 231 

Rose, 231 

Lavender, 231 

Lilac, 231 
Kinds of Stitches in Needle-Work, 237 

Kitchen, Tlie, S3 

Lace, To Whiten, 371 

Lambrequins, (with ill.) 277 

Lamp Screen, 275 
LANDSCAPE GARDENING— 

General Rules Applying to Small 

Lots, 183 

Errors to be Avoided, 183 

How to Begin, 184 

Style of Gardening Used, 186 

Exposure or Location, 186 

Roads and Walks, 189 

Grading and Terracing, 189 

Formation of Lawns, 190 

A More Permanent Lawn, 191 

Special Features, 193 
■Varieties of Flowers, Trees, and 

Shrubs to Use, 194 

Drives and Walks* (with ill.) 197 

Method of Making, 198 

Planting Trees, 202 



492 



GENERAL INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Best Time for Doing So, 202 

Time for Removing, 203 

How to Select Trees, 205 

Excellent Kinds to Plant, 205 

Fences, Various Styles, 206 

How to Make them Ornamental, 209 

Lathing and Plastering, 76 

Xathes and Saws for Fret Sawing, 349 

Leaves, To Skeletonize, 3S0 
LESSONS IN FRET SAWING (with 
illustrations)— 

I., 340 

IL, 340 

IIL, 341 

IV., " 341 

Library, The, 221, 2S8 

Lime-Water, 379 

Lounge, Useful and Graceful, 292 
LUMBER— Necessary to Erect a Build- 
ing— 

To Find, 166 

To Measure a Pile of, 165 

The Number of Feet in a Log, 166 



MANTELS— 
Home -Made, 
Cabinets, Etc., 

Mason Work, 



290 

2S3 

62 



Materials in Building a House, with 

their Cost, 145 
MEASURING— 

Builder's Work, Labor,']and Mate- 
rial, 165 
Lumber, 165, 166 
Studding, 165 
Clapboarding, 166 
Plastering, 166 
Flooring, 168 
Mineral Paints, 168 
Mixing Colors, 169 
Momie Cloth for Needle-Work, 235 
Mordants Used in Dyeing, 364, 370 



NEEDLE-WORK— 

Recent Improvements in, 



234 



Usefulness in, A Prominent Fea- 
ture, 234 
Description of Materials for, 235 
Flax Cloth, 235 
Canton Flannel, 235 
Momie Cloth, 235 
Upholstery Felts, 235 
Bolton Sheeting, 235 
Plushes, 235 
Secret of Beauty in, 234 
Satin, 236 
Crewels, 236 
Arasene, 236 
Embroidery Silks, 236 
Beads, 236 
Kinds of Stitches, 237 
Stem or Tent Stitch, 237 
Blanket Stitch, 237 
Feather Stitch, 237 
A New Stitch, 233 
Plush Stitch, 238 
Applique or Cut- Work, 241 
Inlaid, 241 
Onlaid, 241 
Instructions therein, 241 
Drawn Work, 241 
Embroidery Frames, 241 

NEEDLE-WORK DESIGNS— 

Embroidered Border, Fig. 42, 243 

Embroidered Border, Fig. 43, 243 
Embroidered Pincushion, Fig. 44, 244 

Silk Counterpane, Fig. 45, 245 

Silk Counterpane, Fig. 46, 245 

Tatted Doyley, Fig. 47, 246 
Embroidered Tidy on Linen Crash, 

Fig. 4S, 247 

Nickle Plating, How to Imitate, 3S8 

Odds and Ends of Antiquity, 279 

Oils and Driers, 169 

Oil and Shellac Finish, 174 

Oil instead of Varnish for Doors, 178 

Old Blue Blankets, A Use for, 260 

Onlaid Applique Work, 241 

Open Fire-Places, 91 



GENERAL INDEX. 



493 



Open Joints, and How to Prevent them, 46 

Oi-igiiiality, A Lesson in, 

Originalitj- in Furnishing, 

Outhouses, 

Ox'erlaying in Scroll-Work, 

PAINT— 

Economical, 

To Remove, 

To Destroj-, 

Fire-Proof for Roofs, 

For Blackboards, 

Compound Fire-Proof for Wood- 
Work, 

To Prevent Rust, 
PAINTING— 

Best Time to Paint, 3SS, : 

Kinds of Paint, 

Colors Used, 

Mixing Colors, 

Oils and Driers, 

Applying Paints, 

Priming, 

Second Coat, 

Finisbing Coat, 

Brushes and Tools, 172, 

General Suggestions on Outside 
Work, 

Inside Work, 

Oil and Shellac Finish, 

To Paint Old Work, 

Graining, 

Ash Graining, 

Old Oak Graining, 

Bird's-Eye Maple Graining, 

Mahogany Graining, 

Recipes for. 
Parlor, Library, Etc., How to Finish, 
Paste, How to Make, 
Patriotic Screen, A, 
Pavements of Encaustic Tiles, 
Picturesque Gothic House, (with ill.) 
Piecework, Japanese, 
Pincushion in Embroidery, 
Plan for Cheap but Excellent Farm 

and Carriage Barn. (2 ill.) 



46 


PLASTERING, 76, 


163 


2S0 


To Measure, 


166 


280 


Plates for Rafters, 


78 


157 


Plumbing and Fitting, 


84 


314 


Plushes for Needle-Woi-k, 


235 




Plush Stitch, 


23S 




Polish for Furniture, 


386 


390 


Polishing Wood Carvings, 362, 


396 


390 


PORTIERES— 




390 


Various for Doors, Halls, and Win- 




390 


dows, 


259 


391 


How to Make Them, 


260 




Of Chinese Embroidery, 


260 


391 


Made from Waste Material, 


261 


392 


Use of Smyrna Blankets and 






" Praj'er Carpets," 


262 


167 


Preserving Autunm Leaves, 


380 


16S 


Pretty Idea in Screen Decoration, 


270 


168 


Principles of Taste, 


265 


169 


Pure Water, 


9S 


169 


Pure Wliite Lead, 


16S 


170 






170 


Quilt, A Japanese, 273 


279 


171 






171 


Recent Improvements in Needle-Work 


234 


175 


Reception-Room, The, 
RECIPES FOR— 


2SS 


172 


Dyeing, 


364 


174 


Bleaching, 


371 


174 


Health, 


377 


3S9 


Home Decoration, 


3S0 


175 


Toilet, 


SS2 


177 


Paints, 


388 


177 


Staining Woods, 


392 


177 


Cleaning and Scouring, 


394 


178 


Cleaning Fabrics, 


398 


388 


Cements, 


403 


188 


Cooking, 


417 


229 


RECIPES, MISCELLANEOUS— 


408 


274 


To Renew Manuscripts, 


408 


282 


Tracing Paper, 


403 


130 


Transfer Paper, 


409 


273 


To Mend Amber, 


409 


242 


Bronzing Wood, 


409 




To Remote Screws, 


410 


159 


To Make Putty, 


410 



494 



GENERAL INDEX. 





PAGE. 


For Sealing-Wax, 


411 


For Cleaning; Harness, 


411 


For Harness Blacking'. 


412 


For Harness Composition, 


412 


To Destroj Bed-Bugs, 


412 


To Make Non-Corrosive Ink, 


413 


For Invisible Ink, 


413 


For Green Ink, 


413 


For Blue Ink, 


413 


To Make Soap-Bubbles, 


413 


To Prevent Rusting, 


414 


To Prevent Lead's Exploding, 


414 


To Repair Rubber Hose, 


414 


To Keep Wagon Tires on. 


414 


The Tempering Secret, 


41,5 


Test for Counterfeit Silver, 


416 


-KJciClril.& — 

Dyeing Woolens, 


367 


Ebonizing Wood, 


267, 3S2 


Varnish for Common Work, 


3S5 


Furniture Varnish, 


3S5 


KECIPES, TOILET— 




Hair, To Beautify the, 


3S3 


Hair Gloss, 


382 


Hair Wash, 


3S2 


Hair Lotion, 


382 


Hair Brushes, To Clean, 


3S3 


Teeth, To Beautify the. 


383 


Tooth Powder, 


383 


Tooth Wash, 


333 


Bloom of Roses, 


3S3 


Bloom of Youth, 


383 


Violet Powder, 


3S4 


Aromatic Vinegar, 


384 


Camphor loe. 


3S4 


Cold Cream, 


384 


For Rougli or Chapped Hands 


384 


To Take Stains off the Skin, 


384 


Acacia Sachet, 


3S4 


Pot-Pourri Sachet Powder, 


385 


Tlemodeling'Windows, 


1.53 


Revolving Ventilator, The, 


96 


Koofs and Gables, Improving of. 


152 


Roofs and Trimmings, 


SO 



PAGE. 
236 
239 
256 



266 

267 



269 



Satin for Fancy Work, 
Scarf for Book-Cases, 
Scarf for Pianos, 
SCREENS— 

Tlieir Variety and Uses, 
How to Make Them, (with ill.) 
Bamboo and Fire Screens, 
Use of an Old Clothes-Horse, 
Method of Covering and Decorat- 
ing, 269 
A Pretty Idea, 270 
Appropriate Figures from Nature, 271 
A Stationary Screen, 271 
In Embroidery, 272 
Old Clothes-Horse Screen, 277 
Japanese Piecework, 273 
A Patriotic Subject, 274 
Odd Fan, 275 
Lamp, 275 
SCROLL SAWING, 335 
Practical Lessons in, (\vith iU.) 340 
Selecting Healthy Site, 97 
Selecting Flowers, 304 
Sewage, Good System of, 98 • 
Shade Trees, 101 
Shaker Rocking-Chair Cushions, 248 
Sheathing Paper, 42 
Shellac Finish, 174 
Shingling, 42 
Shingles, No. Required for a Hoof, 166 
Shrubbery, 101 
Shutters and Blinds, 82 
Sick-Room, Disinfectants for, 377 
Silhouettes in Scroll-Work, 345 
Silk Counterpanes in Embroidery, 244 
Silk Rag Carpet, 261 
Simple Adornments that Add to Com- 
fort, 130 
Simple Cottage, A, with Successive 
Enlargements [Figs. 3, 4, 6, 6] from 
Design I. , 105 
Skeletonizing Leaves, 3S0 
Soil for the Flower Garden, 305 
SOLID GOTHIC HOUSE— 

Description of the Plan, (with ill.) 132 



GENERAL INDEX. 



495 



Cost of Erection, 
Sowing of Flower Seeds, 
Sponge, To Bleach, 
STAINING WOODS— 

Directions for, 

Walnut, (2 Recipes) 

Black, 

Black, for Immediate Use, 

Ebony, 

Cherry, 
STAIRCASES— 

Directions for Building, 

Rear or Back, 
STAMPING— 

Producing- the Design, 

Transferring Design, 
Slate Roofs, 
Steam Heating, 93 

Stem or Tent Stitch in Needle-Work, 237 
Stone-Work, 163 

Stone Trimmings for Brick Houses, 60 
Storm Do'irs, 89 

Straw Hats, To Color, 370 

Straw Goods, To Bleach, 371 

Studding, 7S 

Suggestions on Building, 32, 163 

Suggestions on Beautifying the Sur- 
roundings at Little Expense, 14S 
Summer Cottage, How to Build, 143 
Summer House, To Construct, 146 
Sunlight, a House that Admits to Every 

Room, (with ill.) 125 

Sweating of Brick Walls, How to Pre- 
vent, 60 

Table-Cover, Ornamental, (with ill.) 278 

Table Scarf in Darned Work, 257 

Tables, to Renovate, 277 

Tanks, Hints on, S6 

Tatted Doyley, 246 
Tempering Secret of the U. S. Gwern- 

ment, 415 

Terraces, 189 

Testing Cement, 71 

Tin Roofs and Trimmings, 80 



PAGE. 




PAGE. 


134 


Tidy on Linen Crash, 


247 


305 


TOILET RECIPES— 




371 


Hair Gloss, 


382 




Hair Oil, 


382 


392 


Hair Wash, 


3S2 


393 


Hair Lotion, 


382 


393 


Hair, To Beautify the. 


383 


393 


Hair Brushes, To Clean, 


383 


7,393 


Teeth, To Beautify the, 


383 


393 


Tooth Powder, 


383 




Tooth Wash, 


3S3 


51 


Bloom of Roses, 


383 


52 


Bloom of Youth, 


383 




Violet Powder, 


384 


240 


Aromatic Vinegar, 


384 


240 


Camphor Ice, 


384 


79 


Cold Cream, 


384 



For Rough or Chapped Hands, 384 

To Take Stains off the Skin, 384 

Acacia Sachet, 384 

Pot-Pourri Sachet Powder, 385 

Toilet-Stand, Drapery for, 299 

Train Stitch in Needle-Work, 257 

Transferring Designs for Embroidery, 240 

TREE PLANTING— 

Best Time for, 202 

Time for Removing, 203 

Excellent Kinds to Plant, 205 

Trimmings and Roofa, 80 

Tripods, 2^ 



Use up the Pieces, 



281 



Varnish Brushes, 172 
Varnish Finish, 173, 174 
VARNISHES— 

How to Varnish Furniture, 3S5 

For Common Work, 385 

Table Varnish, 386 

Turpentine Varnish, 386 

For Furniture, 386 

Common, 386 

White, 3S6 

Furniture Polish, 386 

Water-Proof, 387 



496 



GENERAL INDEX. 



PAGE. 


For Boots and Shoes, 


387 


Golden Varnish, 


387 


For Iron- Work, 


388 


Veining Ingrain-Work, 


176 


Velveteen Portiere Coverings, 


262 


Veneer Brick and Stone-Work, 


58 


Ventilation, How to Effect it, (with ill.) 


94 


Ventilator, Revolving, 


96 


WALL-PAPERS- 




Instructions How to Hang, 


226 


Sizing the Walls, 


227 


Quantity in a Roll, 


227 


How to Cut and Match, 


228 


To Make and Apply the Paste, 


229 


For Walls and Ceilings, 


215 


To Select the Best, 


216 


Hints on Choosing, 217, 


219 


For Parlor or Dra wing-Room, 


220 


For Library, 


221 


For Bed-Room, 


221 


For Dining-Room, 


222 


WALLS AND CEILINGS— 




General Remarks, 214, 


215 


Various Modes of Treatment, 


230 


Calcimining, 


230 


Whitewash, 


231 



PA8E. 

Lime-Wash, 231 

Whitewash for Brick- Work, (with 

illustration) 232 

Remedy for Damp, 391 

Wardrobe and Bedstead Combined, 298 
Water-Colors for Screen Decoration, 271 
Wet or Damp Cellars, How to Remedy, 75 
Whiten Lace, To, 371 

White Lead, Pure, 168 

WINDOWS— 

Adding of Bay, 150 

Ground Glass, To Imitate, 381 

Improving of, 153 

Window Gardenmg, (with ill. ) 327 

WOOD CARVING— 

Its Origin and History, 351 

Tools and How to Use Them, (with 

illustration.) 352 

Instruction in the Art, 354 

Carving a Wall Pocket, 357 

Relief Carving, 359 

Carved Fret-Work, 360 

Finishing, 362 

Wood, Ebonized, 267, 382 

Woolens, To Dye all Colors, 367 

Zinc, Ifl* 



I gUPPIiEMENT^L INDE^ I 



MKVISEB EM'TIOK. 



p 


AGE. 


I'AGF. 


ANILINE DYES— 




For a Mantel iii Applique Work, 


284 


Magenta, Crimson, and Violet, 


363 


For a Lace Lambrequin, 


2S5 


Scarlets, Cardinals, 366 


3:;: 


For Fish-Scale Embroiderj-, 


350 


Pink, Orange, 


367 


DECALCOMANIA— 




Nicholson Blue, 

Brown, Yellow, Green, 367 
Applique Design for a Mantel 
ov Window, 


367 
36S 

283 


Its Uses, 
Materials, 
DYES, ANILINE- 


247 
347 


AppliqTie Design, Cut of, 


2S4 


The Best, 


366 


Art Amateur, Tlie, 


342 


Dissohing', 


366 


Art of Preserving' Flowers, 


333 


For Wool, 


366 


Art of Transferring' Pictures, 


347 


For Cotton , 


36 S 






Suggestions, 


36S 


Baby's Crib, Cover for, 
Bag^? and Sachets, 


351 
3J0 


Embroidered Cover for a Bah\ 's Crib, 


351 


Barbatin Ware, Imitation, 


342 


EMBROIDERY STITCHES— 




Basket, Imitation Coral, 


351 


Embroidery with Fish S 'ales, 


340 


Baskets for Waste Paper, 


352 


Stem Stitcli, 


233 


Border, Design for. 


235 


Blanket Stitch, (with '2 ilh.) 


233 


Brush and Pigment, 


339 


Chain Stitch, (with ill.) 


234 


Brid;xl Fl iwers, to Preserve, 


335 


Twisted Chain Stitch, (with ill.) 


234 


Bowl Painting, 


344 


S.-itin Stitch, (with ill.) 


234 






Knot Stitch. 


235 


Carriage Rugs, 


353 


Herring-Bine Stitch, (with 2 ilN.) 


235 


Con\ ex Glass for Photo Painting', 


345 


Kensington Outline SUtrli, (with 




Coral Hanging Basket, 


351 


illustratiiin) 


236 


Colors in Arrangement of Flowers, 


336 


Janina Stitch, (with ill.) 


236 


Corner, Desig'n for, 


237 


Basket Stitch, (with ill.) 


237 


Crj-stallizing Grass, 


336 


Featherstitch, (with ill.) 


237 


Curtains and Lambrequin, 


2S2 


Plush Stitch, (with ill ) 238, 


239 


Curtains, Cut of, 


283 


Elegant Table, An, 


352 


Crj'Stal Ambrotypes, 


345 










Fan Painting. 


344 


Decorating Flower-Pots. 


366 


Fans for Flower-Pots, 


35r! 


DESIGNS- ' 




Filled Rugs, 


352 


Fur a B-jrder 


236 


FLOWERS— 




For a Corner or Center in Em- 




The Art of Prec;cr\ in-'. 


33.) 


broidery, 


237 


Arrangement of. 




For Curtains and Lambrequin, 


2S3 


Flower-Pots, Decorating, 344, 


353 


For a Sofa Pillow, 


•2S4 


Funeral Flowers, To Pieser\ e, 


335 



[497] 



21787 140 



498 



SUPFLEMEy TA L 1 X I >EA. 



Cilass, Convex for Phot'is, 
Grass, To Crj'stallize, 

Herriiig-Bone Stitcli, 
How to Paint Pliotograjilis, 
How to Transfer Pictures, 

Iir.ifation Barbatiii and Laniogcs 
Ware, 

Janina Stitch, 



I'ASE. 

34 r, 
336 

23.') 
34", 
348 



Kensington Outline Stitcli, " 


236 


Knot Stitch, 


ES.'i 


Lace Lambrequin, (with ill.) 


283, 2S.j 


Lanibreiiuin and Curtains, 


282 


Lanioges Ware, Imitation, 


342 


Lamji-Shades, 


s.-s* 


LINCllUSTA-WALTON- 




Kemarks, 


3ri7 


Of what Composed, 


357 


Its Uses, 


357 


Beauty, 


S57 


Effects, 


358 


Method of Applying to Walls, 


357 


Illustration, 


35S 


MATERIALS— 





For Embroidery, 231, 232 
For Lambrequins and Cur- 
tains, 282, 2S3 
For Oil Painting-, 339 
For Photo-Enameling, 345 
For Transferring Pictures, 347 

NATURAL FLOWERS, TO PRESERVE- 

Remarks, 333 

By the Sand Process, 333, 334 

By the Sulphur Procfess, 334 

By the Paraffine Process, 335 

OIL PAINTING- 

Remarks, 33y 



I'AGE. 

Subjects for, 341, 342 

Materials Necessar^\-, 339 

Panels, 340 

Plaques, 341 

Silk, Satin, and Plush, 343 

Imitation Barl)atin Ware, 342 

Fans and Bowls, 344 

Oval Picture Frames, 351 

Oil Colors, A New Material f.r, 342 

PAINTING IN OIL COLORS— 



Instructions in the Art, 


339 


340 


Panels, 




340 


Plaques, 




341 


Plush, 




343 


Pots for Flowers, 




344 


Photographs, 


345 


347 


Pictures, How to Transfer tn 






Wood, etc.. 




347 


Picture Frames, To Make, 




351 


Preserving Natural Flowers, 




333 


RUGS— 

Of Silk Rags, 




352 


Of Slieejiskin, 




353 


For Carriages, 




353 



Sand Process for Preserving' Flowers, 333 
Sofa Pillow, (with ill.) 232-284 

Stitches, Embroidery, 333-338 

Suljjhur Process for Preserving 

Flowers, 334 

Silks and Satin, To paint in Oil Colors, .343 
Sheepskins, To Tan and Color for 

Rugs, 353 



Table, How to Make, 
Tanning Sheepskin. 
Transfer Pictures, 
Tissue Paper Lamp-Shades, 

Waste-Paper Basket, 
Water Color.s, 



352 
353 
347 

354 

352 
344 























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